Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Bowhunting Traditional setups

Who's hunting without training wheels this year? Let's see your setups.

Here's mine:
60'' Martin DreamCatcher - 50lb @ 28''
Selway Archery 5 arrow slide on quiver
Arrows are BlackOut X3 Carbon Hunters with 4'' feathers
- 400 spine cut to 31''
- 100 grain brass insert with 150 grain Magnus Stinger 2 blade broadheads
- Total arrow weight is 523 grains and they chrono at 150fps

Nice setup. I have too many trad bows to list. My own homemade longbow is the favorite killer but I have a Ernie Root recurve that really likes me and fits like a glove. Broadheads are homemade single bevel and arrows are homemade using the feathers from turkey I kill as the fletching. My finger tab is made from one of my old sorell boot, leather uppers. Ive taken deer and bear with this setup.

I’m sticking with wheels, but you have a great season.

Blackwidow HS
55# @ 28"
58"

Delta quiver
K tech 3 stabilizer w S coil module

Arrows? Haven't tuned it yet. Have some GT 55/75 from the 60# HS I had a couple yrs ago.
Might have to add a little up front.
Have some 35/55 from the HF 1225.........which was 5# lighter than this rig, so might have to take away a little.
Run 4"helical parabolic.........on everything. If 125's tune, then Magnus Stingers again this yr.

Tab..............BW 3 under, calf hair.
If I go split a KP300

I'll get some beer and paper tune this weekend.

LOL. For you newbs just getting into trad archery. Paper tuning is for compound bows with a release. Bare shaft tuning is for trad setups shot with fingers. Since you cant move the rest up and down or in and out and you are shooting fingers, Paper tuning is not the correct approach.

From Gold Tip arrows. (since you use gold tip)

"Although there are a number of acceptable tuning methods that work well, Gold Tip recommends paper tuning for release aid shooters and bare shaft tuning for finger shooters. "

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/blog/paper-tuning-101/

"(Shooting a compound bow with fingers is more like shooting a recurve bow, and Lancaster Archery Supply recommends bare-shaft tuning in such cases"

This guy does an ok job of explaining it for you so you wont waste time paper tuning a fingers rig off the shelf.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6zC4iZ-pK8

Glad I was able to save a newb some time this weekend. Let me know if you have any others questions.

I plan on using both. I'll probably start the season using my new to me bow with training wheels but I have a much better time with my old busted up Pearson recurve.

my son shoots a 72 lb. black widow long bow built for him with his name on this bow,2219 arrows ,Zwickey eskimo 2 blade with bleeders,because of my latest nasty shoulder surgery hope to at least be able to handle 45 lbs. with my Barnsdale compound Dave built for me. good luck to all,Pete53

Very nice - the Dreamcatcher has been a bucket list bow for me for years and 50# @ 28" is perfect. My Dad just gifted me his vintage Howatt Hunter and I'm looking forward to spending some time with it. I usually shoot and hunt with bows of my own making but haven't hunted with a bow in a few years. My preference is a hybrid longbow which is what I make, but I've been shooting an ILF recurve this year and will hunt with it. This is one I made and is the one I've shot and hunted with more than any of my others - it's 57#@28" and shoots a 500 gr arrow at 192 fps:



Here are some riser close-ups of one I made for a friend off the same form as the one above:




and what they look like strung up:

Black Widow (only the best). PSA X, Bocote riser, limbs. 53#.

Post pics later....stuck in LA currently.

I gap my rug rest so don't get quill deflection.
Paper works, is short distance and convenient (can do in garage or off my patio).
Never had a good paper tune show bad bare shaft.
30 yrs of this stuff, dozens of recurves set up.
Not w newb.
Not a fat c unt either.

The issue w paper tune and fingers/trad, is that somebody might have a sh*tty release and crash it, giving false reading.
If one has a crappy release.............bare shaft testing aint gonna fix it.

This my 60#, sold it and got a 55#, same model/quiver/stabilizer

After more than 42 years of this trad stuff I can spot BS from a young buck a mile off but your attempt at a save was cute.

Broadheads hit w field points, seems to work..........and has for decades.
Fail to see the friggin' problem.

42 yrs of sucking cock, you should be dead from AIDS by now.

Seems I struck a nerve exposing your error (again) Settle down lil fella. No need to get so upset. You learned something today. You are welcome.

Black Widow.

Thats badass....

Amen! Only way to fly. Congrats on a great bull.

Awesome pic scenar

I remember that post scenar. Very nice!

How do you like your Hunter? I was actively looking for a used Hunter to buy when I stumbled across my Dreamcatcher.

I've owned several 1980's vintage Hunters and shot them quite a bit back then. I always thought they were about the best production recurve out there and better than a lot of customs. My Dad's was purchased in 1980 but I haven't shot it much yet. These Hunters have Bubinga risers vs. the laminated risers used on the newer versions. Back in those days, I always wanted a Super Diablo and I understand the Dreamcatcher is essentially an updated version of the old Super Diablo.

Oh - was going to add, if my Dad's Hunter didn't have some sentimental value to me, I'd offer to trade you for your Dreamcatcher (since you were actually looking for a Hunter )

I've tried to like the Hunter. Had two of them, grip too funky for me. They were 80's era orangish rigs w black glass. Good looking.
Much prefer Super Diablo (had one in the 80's, Rosewood model from yrs before).
Nice bow, stunning looks, grip however big and would need modified.

Passed on a Zebra and even newer dark wood model Super D's...........because they were mint and for me to run one I'd have to grind on it.
I have grown to like 58" bows so that's saved a few classics from Dremel LOL

Bud had a Mamba.

IMHO Dreamcatcher or Super D the way to go.

Of course the above post was about buying a bow.
Does not take into account any sentimental/historic family value.
Obviously, if a family member passes along a rig.........RUN IT!
I'm off to gunshop to see if coworker (died)........his widow put a couple rifles for sale.
Don't need one, not in chamberings I want.............but if the old #1B in .22-250 is there.......I might be 800 bucks lighter in an hr.
Not a good friend, just a coworker, good guy..........a rifleman.
Kinda neat to hunt with one of his old rigs.
Looking down, I'm sure he'd smile on my blasting a chuck w his rifle.

Found a way to mod the K tech 3 to work on different D&T limb bolt.
Will mount on lower for better balance, the reg bushing for stab is too close to hand IMHO.
Look..........a spike with no corn or rifle
Limb bolts on the old HS (purchased from Mark Land- good guy)......needed no mod.

I'd like a Groves without BH cutout (hey often crack there).
Maybe a newer take down.
A short Flame Hunter would be cool.
Grips huge, would have to rework.

Picked up a factory camo Kodiak from orig owner. Pretty clean.
Was stoked.............ended up being proly the worst recurve I ever shot.
Horrible shock, no matter what tune.
Made my Grizzlies seem custom.
Limb resonance the only issues I had with those, good shooters but not exactly fast.

Still have an itch for a Mag Riser TD.

For the $, a Hoyt Dorado w Tradtech limbs is hard to beat IMHO
Just sucks they didn't do it on a 17" riser.
Liked mine quite a bit. Dumped it only because a Blackwidow HS came along.

My Dad and I started bowhunting together in 1979 - me with a compound and him with a Bear Grizzly. I started shooting his Grizzly the next year and we both decided we didn't like it so we both bought Howatt Hunters and hunted together with them for a few years before I got too busy with college, marriage and life in general. We haven't really hunted together since, he's never killed anything with a bow and doesn't hunt any more, so I'm on a mission to get his old Hunter bloody while he's still around. That's the sentimental part...

I found a used Purpleheart Super D back in the 1980's I wanted to buy but there was a crack in the glass that was of concern to me. I've always liked the grips on the Howatt recurves but they did vary in size and shape quite a bit from bow to bow. I'm shooting a Dryad ILF riser with Trad Tech Carbon Extreme limbs now and the grip is much smaller through the throat than anything I've ever shot and am liking it a lot. I'll be thinning down the grips on any future bows that I make...

I don’t know anything about bow, trad or wheels...But, if I ever decided to get after it. Yours would be what I’d want...Even a rifle only hunter can appreciate a beautiful set-up. Shart Azz...Fuuck You! 😎

I'll be taking one of 2 Silvertips to the woods this year. I have 4 with draw weights range from 63 to 74 but need to work into the heavier ones again after some medical issues this year. Arrows are carbon express heritage 350s with various weight inserts and lengths depending on bow. All shooting 175gr Woodsman or Razorcaps. May try DRT HD this year.

shameless plug - I have a bunch of nocks for sale in classifieds.

Thanks. Yeah I too like the lines of the old HS model (no longer made). Did fill the quiver holes eventually on the one in the pic. That one had the bumpy "spider web" epoxy finish.
I actually like that. Bow was made in 83. It had a bolt and pin per limb.

The one I have now is from '75.........and has a bolt and collar.........so two points that can be tightened per limb. I think it better. But the collar does stand up, not as clean a look.
Might blow the $ and send it in the Blackwidow for a repaint, let them put the spider logo and specs on lower limb.
Won't make it shoot any better though ')

The grip is of higher wrist, and I like it. But being a metal riser..........sucks ass late season.
Any insulating wrap would change dims and I like the grip "as is".

Bow just has a cool shape riser in profile too. Balance is kinda crappy though, hence the K tech stabilizer (S coil module heavier than other weights).

I still have this one, a HF1225 from '72 (started production of metal risers in '71)

After blowing out my bicep tendon at the end of May I thought my bowhunting was done for 2018. Luckily I was wrong. I won't be shooting my original 'Tip, but I found a Wing Hawk @ about 42# at my draw. Spend $60 on it at a trade blanket. I've been shooting it really well and have no doubt I'll kill one with my same old cedar shafts and Bear greenies that have worked for longer than I've been alive.

This is another thread I read and caused me to head out to the shop for a little testing and weighing, my longbow is a 66" Toelke Montana Whip, 54 lbs at 28"s, I draw 31"s and best I remember it's around 58 or 60 lbs on the bowshop scale, arrow weight with practice tip is exactly 540 grains, I chronoed three this morning for, 170, 171, and 175 fps, shoulder felt really well after 10 months of slow healing a rotator cuff tear, bow is extremely quite and dead in the hand at the shot.

I refreshed my memory at the Toelke website and set my brace height at 7.75"s before the chronographing.

I shoot three under with a finger glove and aim down the shaft, I need to be in a really thick spot on the ground with a good face wind to make another kill, never shot my longbow from a tree.

Nice setups everyone! We've got a special 3 day "velvet" hunt this year that runs this Friday-Sunday, a full month before the regular archery season opens in late September. It'll be hot and the woods will be eat up with ticks and chiggers, but I'm looking forward to getting my Dreamcatcher in the woods nonetheless.

Don't quote me, but I think the general guideline is something like 3 pounds per inch over 28''. If that's true, you may be all the way up to 63 lbs with your draw length.

I was always told that a smooth drawing bow shouldn't gain more than 3 lbs per inch of draw up to the draw length it was designed to shoot at with 28" being the standard for production bows. When drawing beyond 28", at some point the bow will start to "stack" whereas that 3 lbs per inch is going to increase to say, 4, 5 or more lbs per inch of draw. The 60" hybrid longbows I make gain 2.5 - 3 lbs per inch up to 28" - 29" before it stacks. I also make a 64" version that draws smooth at 2.5 - 3 lbs per inch to 30" - 31".

With Gunner's bow drawing 54 @ 28, I would've predicted at least 63 lbs at his 31" draw...

Thanks for all the info jds44 and JGray, as far as longbows go, is 540 grains at 173 fps a pretty good power level? I shoot the 160 gr STOS broadhead, just wondering if I'd have enough penetration for a tough pig at an odd angle should one wonder by.

I think you'd be fine with that set up - the 160 STOS has a good reputation for penetration. I'm currently shooting arrows in the 500 grain range in bows drawing 52 - 56 lbs and getting chrono numbers in the mid-180's to low 190's fps. I've taken deer and javelina with set ups similar to yours and though I've never taken an elk with this gear, that is my main pursuit and feel it's adequate for that. A buddy of mine cleanly took a nice 5x5 bull a few years back with one of my bows and Zwickey tipped Spruce arrows I made for him. Adequate arrow weight and a good broadhead are far more important than speed with this type of gear.

Great to hear JGray, I just got off the phone with Dan Toelke, gave him the specs on my bow as far a draw length, suspected poundage etc, he recommended the 350 Vintage arrows from Black Eagle archery cut at 33"s for my set up, I'll call and order a dozen tomorrow, he said the old STOS 160 was indeed a good head, I ask because they are no longer being made and he recommended the 150 gr 2 blade Magnus Stingers, I'll give those a good looking over too for future reference.

You Sir are correct, Mr. Toelke said exactly that at my draw length, he also said an arrow weighing from 500 to 600+ grains with a good head and 170+ fps will shoot through an elk or black bear with ease, I should have deer and pigs covered nicely.

I didn't realize the STOS were no longer made - glad I stocked up on the 160's when I did. I've used Magnus 2 blade heads in the past and was always impressed with how damn sharp I could get them. More recently, I've been intrigued with (and have heard great things about) the VPA 3 blade heads and am shooting those this year.

I would kill for a 31 inch draw. Lol

I have a friend with that draw length. He's put arrows clean through deer shooting mid 40 lb bows. 60 at that draw will have awesome cast.

Thanks for the info on the VPA's too JGray, I'll check those out too, LOL bbassi, stretch it out buddy.

Love the looks of that 3" 175 gr non vented three blade screw in VPA head, bet it's a deep puncher.

That's the exact one I'm using...

Some beautiful bows, gentlemen. Congrats on the kills.

Great Minds, I guess.

Yeah, I'd go along with that I've been a dedicated wood arrow shooter forever but have been shooting more carbons lately, but that has me thinking I need to order some of the glue on 3 blade VPA's, just 'cause...

I'll chime in since the elk season opens Saturday here. 60" Martin Hatfield T/D, 55# @ 28", 30" XX75 2216's tipped with Magnus Classic 125 grain broadheads, Selway bolt on quiver. I'm pumped, 4 days until the chase is on!

I've got an old Robertson longbow (50#/54") that I hunt with year around. Shot a pretty good gar with it a couple of weeks ago.

Anybody shoot a Martin Savannah?

Never really got into trad, but get the itch to give it a whirl on occasion. The Savannah always looked like a beautiful bow.

Well Crap! I'm averaging about 5" groups at 17 yards with my Longbow, holding low, I know the deer will surely duck such a slow set up, that's three under aiming the arrow tip, if I could hold that centered to 20 yards I'd feel better, need to shoot that longbow A LOT more.

Yes, grab a couple packs of those glue on's, I have 12 160 STOS heads, need to find some kind of tool I can sharpen the one I've been practicing with, oddly enough it lands in with the field points.

Keep those limbs stretched out Lt.

MM, I've never saw a Savannah longbow, you may want to get it, very frustrating, but satisfying when you start to hit a little, a major rush when you stab your first deer with one, I had a stupid grin glued on my face the whole hour drive home with my first ;]

MM, I shot one way back when I picked up my Hatfield. I was going back and forth between the Savannah or the Hatfield. It was a really smooth, nice shooting bow. But so is the Hatfield and I was stuck on a recurve takedown at the time. Really nice wood on the Savannah I was trying also. If I ever run across one again for a decent deal, I'd pick one up. One of my shooting and hunting buddies has a Herb Meland Pronghorn. Very nice, smooth shooting bow if you're looking for a reflex deflex type bow. I'd like to find a set of 50# limbs for my Hatfield but evidently they are non-existent.

Lots of nice set-ups you guys are using! I've always liked the the looks of the Silvertips too. Nice looking rigs.

I like the Tru Angle file system but I'm not seeing them listed anymore - very easy to get a shaving sharp broadhead with minimal effort. They were discussed here on this thread: https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...01966/all/Sharpening_Traditional_broadhe

Here is a used one on ebay that may be worth a look: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRUANGLE-W...SHARPEN/113220498182?hash=item1a5c77b306

l made my own version of it in a larger size that I like better and gave my Tru Angle file set away to a buddy that was just starting out with a longbow I built for him.

Thanks again JGray, if that sharpener is still on ebay tomorrow, I'll have Wifey log on and bid on that for me.

I didn't know you built longbows, and certainly don't even know if it's kosher to ask, but, as far as long bow quality goes, is my Toelke Montana Whip a good solid bow? I know nothing about them.

I've never shot or handled a Toelke but they are very highly regarded in the traditional archery community. From what I understand, Dan Toelke is a great guy and very talented bowyer. I'd say your bow is definitely near the top of the field. Oh - probably should add for clarity, I'm a 'hobby' bowyer and am not in the business. I just build them for myself and a few others via word of mouth.

If you end up not getting that sharpener and want one, give me a shout - I can make you a better one in less than an hour and would be happy to do so.

Mighty nice offer there JGray, Thank You, I may have to take you up on that, hope it's a simple procedure, I'm persimmon green when it comes to sharpening anything.

Picked up a Bear Kodiak Magnum last year....1971 vintage...45# at 28".

I am 6' 4" and got me some gorilla arms.... I draw 32 inches with the compound.

Could I legitimately shoot this thing or should I just hang it on the wall...I have room

I wouldn't hesitate to shoot an older bow like that, however...

My Dad had a Bear Grizzly back in the day that stacked badly at 28" of draw and it's a 58" bow. The Kodiak Magnum is quite a bit shorter at 52" so I'd expect it to be a real struggle to shoot well at your draw length. Your draw will likely shorten some from the compound but will still be 30" plus and I don't think that bow was intended to be drawn that far. I'd at least give it a try (once ... )

(Imho) age does not matter, condition does. I have been shooting the same Indian Stalker compound bow for the last 38 years. I have others, but for a light bow hunt, it's my choice.

Well I took the plunge, just got off the phone with Ron LaClair, he has a wood arrow builder friend that sent me some arrows of differing weights and spines, the arrow that flew best in my long bow weighs 673 grains, it chronoed 160 fps, Ron recommended the big 200 grain Ace glue on broadhead for my setup, if I can get that axe through a deer they should be in a real bad way, going to try hard to get next to one this year.

If you draw a true 32 inches its only a matter of time until that 52" bow blows up in your face. I have a buddy that destroyed 2 58" recurves with a 31" draw. One Bear and one Wing (mine). You would be better off with a 62 or 64" bow in the low 40s.

I would have to agree. You can add some margin of safety by using really heavy arrows ,but I would save that one for blinds when I learned to short stroke it when needed.

Been using this one since I made it in 1996 from an Osage fence post.
62"--- reduced it down to 51# @27" a few years ago



Also shoot a bamboo backed maple bow a buddy built for me back in 1998
It's 66" long and 51# at 28"
they both work well if I do what I'm supposed to do

Very cool rudyc! The first bows I made were all wood of Yew and Osage - I still have a Yew bow I need to work the weight down so I can shoot it again and have been getting the itch to build another one.

No Sheet, good job Rudy, Congrats!

I have been hunting with traditional gear for over thirty years and still really enjoy the challenge.I shoot a JD Berry and McBroom Longbows.Having trouble posting photos from my photo library on my computer.Good luck to all this season.

Cool bows Rudy. I've got a couple Osage bows I've made as well. Chasing that ring can be tedious but the end result feels so good when completed.

I shot a couple 2" 3 shot groups at 20 yards the other day, and about three inches at 25 yards, this longbow deal is coming around, I think I am cheating though, three under and gun barreling the damn arrow is the ONLY way I can get there.

That's not cheating gunner. Lots of people gap shoot.

10-4 bbassi, Thanks!, I had heard of gap shooting but certainly didn't know I was doing it.

I found out last evening shooting a longbow at dusk is a totally different animal than say with a compound and lit pins, I completely missed the block target at 25 yards, glad to know that now and NOT on a wounded deer tracking job.

Finally got it done with the recurve! Anybody else having any luck with trad gear so far this year?

Nice Buck jds44, congrats, no, I haven't took my longbow to the woods yet, it's black powder season over in Ar. now, want to hunt my longbow late over any remaining acorns and between that and bedding areas, I have a damn tight pocket picked out in some thick young pines. North wind will be best, but, East or West will work too.

My max shot in that thicket will be 18 yards with 8 to 15 being most likely, how far was the shot on the buck? Did you get full penetration?

Thank you!

The shot was 20 yards. I did not get full penetration. I was in a stand and he was broadside downhill from me, which meant a high entry point to get the angle to the vitals right. I hit a couple of inches higher than I was aiming, broke a rib going in and nicked the bottom of the spine. That slowed penetration, but the broadhead still made it through the vitals to the far side of the chest cavity and did it's job.

Nice buck! satisfying, isn't it?

Thank you! Yes, to say it was satisfying to get it done with trad bow is an understatement. I've killed much bigger deer and taken them with a compound bow, iron sighted revolver, scoped single shot pistol, iron sighted rifle, scoped rifle, muzzleloader, and now recurve. Besides the first one 33 years ago, I don't think I've been more satisfied with any of them.

That's a nice one !

Congrats.

Heading out this weekend, 55# Blackwidow HS .