Home Forums Gear Hunting Trucks and Four-Wheel Drives 1998 Dodge Cummins or 2003 Dodge Cummins?

Both 2500's, both with almost identical mileage (168k), both 4x4's, both are in excellent condition, and both are $15,000.00. The 1998 is an extended cab, the 2003 is a quad cab. Which would you choose and why?

The real question is, are either one of them automatics. Because the 03 would have a decent trans if either auto or manual. The 98 should have a 5 speed if manual (last year). Not a bad trans, not as good for towing as the 6, but good. If the 98 had the automatic, I wouldn't touch it. Neither require DEF. The 03 in factory form had more torque. I don't remember how much but it's noticeable. The redeeming feature of the 98's engine is the P-pump. If you like to screw with diesels, you could make it scream.

In 4x4 the 03 will have different style coil springs. Should ride nicer. the extra length won't hurt the ride either.

The cummins got meaner as they went along, 12v Non-intercooler 1st gen, 12v intercooled 1st, 2nd gen p pump, 2nd gen HO, 3rd gen ---->and moving on up.

PS. That 4x4 won't mean [bleep] unless you are using it for snow. I've yet to see a dodge diesel that could deal with mud. They are just way to front heavy. I went back to highway tread and when I slip a tire in the fields, I walk to get a tractor.

I'm not a mechanic, just own a few, with others in the family owning them too. Dodge diesels are the truck of choice around this farming community. Problem is nobody wants to deal with DEF and it's driving the price of the older generations up.

Both are automatics, so that info helps. We don't get much snow where I'm at, but do get the occasional slick boat ramp, so 4x4 is welcomed.

I'ld ask them about it if you look at it.

At 168k I'ld say the 98 has a new trans. If not number 3.... Or it would around here. That may just be the way they are used around a farm, especially with bale beds. I believe the bad years were 94-98 or so. Those trans were known to be mediocre behind the dodge 318 or 360. Now imagine the problem with all that torque. I have 1 right now behind a V-10.... just waiting it out.

I'm not sure what years got which changes. Is that club cab the one with the front opening doors where you have to open the front door before you can open the rear one? If so, I'd take the quad cab with 4 rear opening doors any day, especially if you plan to have back seat passengers.

Same basic body style, miles and equipment - I'd go with the '03. No advantages to the '98 and some issues - as mentioned the trans and the suicide rear doors.

'03 crew cab..........

Depends if it is the 12 or 24 valve. The 98&1/2, 24 valve has that mechanical lift pump and the VP 44 injector pump. Each are pretty sorry. Expect to replace one and then the other. $2K. Those 2nd generations almost all need the steering tracking bar replaced at 100K to keep the Death Wobble out.Several have been known to stretch the head bolts and need studs.If they blow a head gasket,it gets pricey real quick. . They also had brake problems on the front. The clutch doesn't stand up to a lot of heavy pulling. IIf all those have been replaced, It's a good truck.The suicide doors aren't a big problem. Yep, I have one. I think $15 K is a little high , Probably more like $10K

The 2003 has had problems with injectors. That is a $6k repair if they need replaced. The 2003 does have more pulling power,but not enough to make a decision on.The 03 has a deeper bed

The '03 uses common rail injection with a CP3 pump. The older VP44 pumps were less robust and would die quickly if the lift pump went out. Also, the 2nd Gen "53" blocks would occasionally crack and had the KDP (Killer Dowel Pin) failures too. Engine wise, your biggest potential exposure on the '03 would be injectors, but they can be had from Bosch direct for far less then 6k. Not to mention the common rail engines are very easy to bump power with just some programming changes. My '03 had 297k miles when I sold it to a campfire member. 2 waterpumps, a set of motor mounts, one set of injectors, and a Garmon built performance transmission was about it. Truck was worked a little, with 502hp and 1060 ft/lb to the wheels. The last time I spoke with the new owner, it had about 360k on it, and was still running strong.

2003, no question in my opinion. The 98 is a noisy beast and uncomfortable compared to the 2003. I've had both.

I would take the 2003 model. They actually did fix some things from the 98 to the 03 model. Both have weak front ends but the 03 will hold together better than the 98. The 98’s did have lift pump problems, when I had my car hauling business I actually carried a spare with me for my 99 and could change it on the side of the road. Trannys are a toss up , I’d also say it’s not likely the 98 is on its original trans. The 03 should have an actual back door over the suicide door on the 98 and those doors were a pain in the ass rattling loose regularly.

Had a 98 Dodge with the 360 in it. The trans slipped a little bit getting on the freeway one day and it was traded in at the stealership the next day. Everyone I knew that had Diesels in them around that time was on their 3rd or 4th transmission. And most on their 2nd or 3rd transfer case. They were terrible for that time frame. Amazing engines.........less than stellar drivelines.

There's a 98 which is a 12 valve and a 98.5 which is the 24 valve. Either one of them had weak automatic trannies. The 98.5 has the much documented lift pump problem which takes out the VP44 pump when it fails. The 98 is the old 12 valve which is pretty much indestructible once you fix the killer dowel pin but low on power and loud.

The 2003 should have the 48RE transmission instead of the 47RE which is in the 98/98.5. It's better but still not perfect.

There are a lot that worship the old 12 valves and they are good engines, but for my money it would be a no brainer to get the 2003.

I have the 98.5 and had lift er pump problems. I completely bypassed the lifter pump. I put a fuel pump on the outside of the tank and had a fuel pressure gauge installed. The fuel pump was $100 and worked for years. I redid the front end too. I have 200000 on mine and it runs great. In terms of simplicity, the 94 to 97 12 valve with a manual are the most simple, reliable truck going for pulling. I also had my manual tranny rebuilt a while back. I wouldn't have the early automatics.

I put a FASS filter/pump system on mine. No pressure gage, but I should, that is the best thing to put on. If pressure drops below 5PSI, the injector pump is trash.With the FASS, you can hear it kick on when you first turn the key on ,waiting for the "Wait To Start" light to go out

Two winters ago I was going to haul some calves to the sale. It was about -10. I started to pull out of the yard and my fuel pressure went way down. I turned it off quickly, figuring i had gelled up. Sure enough the filter was all full of jelly, and wax. I had put a lot of anti gell into the fuel too. Had I not had the pressure gauge, I would have burned up my injector pump.

I have a 2004, 182,000 miles, water pump and front end rebuild. I hope to get another 100,000 out of it.

Is the 98 a 12 valve or a 24 valve? If it’s a 12 valve I’d consider the 98. I drive a 98 12 valve now BUT if I were going with a common rail I’d buy an 03 or an early 04 as they have one less injection event. An 03 with a Smarty tuner is a sweet setup. Sucks they are both automatics

The biggest problem is the automatics.

I had a 99....5th gear fell off twice...….03 had a auto...no problems...….03 better body....99 fell apart...bob