Although Husqvarna and a few other Swiss brands make good modern axes, as does Council Tool - particularly their Velvicut line, my recommendation would be to find an old American made boy's axe. Brands to look for are:
Although Husqvarna and a few other Swiss brands make good modern axes, as does Council Tool - particularly their Velvicut line, my recommendation would be to find an old American made boy's axe. Brands to look for are:
Snow & Nealley (the old ones) Kelly (True Temper) Perfect Chemical Sager Simmons - Keen Kutter Craftsman Plumb True Temper - Flint Edge Collins - Legitimus Wetterlings Emerson Stevens
The steel used in these old axes is very high quality, they were forged by hand by true experts, and just about any old axe head can be restored if it hasn't been abused. House Handles has excellent quality American Hickory hafts in every size and shape imaginable - even octagons, and they will hand-pick one for you for a nominal up charge. I also know of a feller that sells excellent wedges in various wood species - I purchased several Osage Orange and Black Locust ones from him and I am very pleased.
Feel free to contact me if you need any help or suggestions if you decide to go this route - I've restored several and I have a box full of heads yet to complete, but no boy's axe heads at this time - other than the Apple of my Eye - an old Snow and Nealley that I always carry with me in the woods. There's many of these old axes to be found on flea-bay, and if you're a bit patient, you'll find what you're looking for at a reasonable price. You can find them in many other places as well - garage sales, farms, antique stores, flea markets, etc.
These old axe patterns work wonderfully and I much prefer them to any modern axe. + you'll be saving a piece of history and putting it to good use.
If you do decide to go the "vintage" route and you need to re-haft, don't forget the BLO.
Good luck.
Very cool vid HN! I found my wife’s grandfather’s ax the other day. Kelly Perfect. I’d like to re-haft it for our boy so he’ll have something from his great grandfather. Any suggestions to keep it as original as possible? TIA.
Although Husqvarna and a few other Swiss brands make good modern axes, as does Council Tool - particularly their Velvicut line, my recommendation would be to find an old American made boy's axe. Brands to look for are:
Snow & Nealley (the old ones) Kelly (True Temper) Perfect Chemical Sager Simmons - Keen Kutter Craftsman Plumb True Temper - Flint Edge Collins - Legitimus Wetterlings Emerson Stevens
The steel used in these old axes is very high quality, they were forged by hand by true experts, and just about any old axe head can be restored if it hasn't been abused. House Handles has excellent quality American Hickory hafts in every size and shape imaginable - even octagons, and they will hand-pick one for you for a nominal up charge. I also know of a feller that sells excellent wedges in various wood species - I purchased several Osage Orange and Black Locust ones from him and I am very pleased.
Feel free to contact me if you need any help or suggestions if you decide to go this route - I've restored several and I have a box full of heads yet to complete, but no boy's axe heads at this time - other than the Apple of my Eye - an old Snow and Nealley that I always carry with me in the woods. There's many of these old axes to be found on flea-bay, and if you're a bit patient, you'll find what you're looking for at a reasonable price. You can find them in many other places as well - garage sales, farms, antique stores, flea markets, etc.
These old axe patterns work wonderfully and I much prefer them to any modern axe. + you'll be saving a piece of history and putting it to good use.
If you do decide to go the "vintage" route and you need to re-haft, don't forget the BLO.
Good luck.
Originally Posted by High_Noon
Although Husqvarna and a few other Swiss brands make good modern axes, as does Council Tool - particularly their Velvicut line, my recommendation would be to find an old American made boy's axe. Brands to look for are:
Snow & Nealley (the old ones) Kelly (True Temper) Perfect Chemical Sager Simmons - Keen Kutter Craftsman Plumb True Temper - Flint Edge Collins - Legitimus Wetterlings Emerson Stevens
The steel used in these old axes is very high quality, they were forged by hand by true experts, and just about any old axe head can be restored if it hasn't been abused. House Handles has excellent quality American Hickory hafts in every size and shape imaginable - even octagons, and they will hand-pick one for you for a nominal up charge. I also know of a feller that sells excellent wedges in various wood species - I purchased several Osage Orange and Black Locust ones from him and I am very pleased.
Feel free to contact me if you need any help or suggestions if you decide to go this route - I've restored several and I have a box full of heads yet to complete, but no boy's axe heads at this time - other than the Apple of my Eye - an old Snow and Nealley that I always carry with me in the woods. There's many of these old axes to be found on flea-bay, and if you're a bit patient, you'll find what you're looking for at a reasonable price. You can find them in many other places as well - garage sales, farms, antique stores, flea markets, etc.
These old axe patterns work wonderfully and I much prefer them to any modern axe. + you'll be saving a piece of history and putting it to good use.
If you do decide to go the "vintage" route and you need to re-haft, don't forget the BLO.
Good luck.
Originally Posted by High_Noon
Although Husqvarna and a few other Swiss brands make good modern axes, as does Council Tool - particularly their Velvicut line, my recommendation would be to find an old American made boy's axe. Brands to look for are:
Snow & Nealley (the old ones) Kelly (True Temper) Perfect Chemical Sager Simmons - Keen Kutter Craftsman Plumb True Temper - Flint Edge Collins - Legitimus Wetterlings Emerson Stevens
The steel used in these old axes is very high quality, they were forged by hand by true experts, and just about any old axe head can be restored if it hasn't been abused. House Handles has excellent quality American Hickory hafts in every size and shape imaginable - even octagons, and they will hand-pick one for you for a nominal up charge. I also know of a feller that sells excellent wedges in various wood species - I purchased several Osage Orange and Black Locust ones from him and I am very pleased.
Feel free to contact me if you need any help or suggestions if you decide to go this route - I've restored several and I have a box full of heads yet to complete, but no boy's axe heads at this time - other than the Apple of my Eye - an old Snow and Nealley that I always carry with me in the woods. There's many of these old axes to be found on flea-bay, and if you're a bit patient, you'll find what you're looking for at a reasonable price. You can find them in many other places as well - garage sales, farms, antique stores, flea markets, etc.
These old axe patterns work wonderfully and I much prefer them to any modern axe. + you'll be saving a piece of history and putting it to good use.
If you do decide to go the "vintage" route and you need to re-haft, don't forget the BLO.
Good luck.
Very cool vid HN! I found my wife’s grandfather’s ax the other day. Kelly Perfect. I’d like to re-haft it for our boy so he’ll have something from his great grandfather. Any suggestions to keep it as original as possible? TIA.
Get a like length haft and go to town on it with a rasp and sandpaper to get it to the same dimensions.
I'd say I'm right about the 50% on rejects from House Handles. If I order from them and need 5 handles, I order a dozen so I'll get 5 good ones. That's how I did it in the past, I have since found a more reliable source.
Fancy wood wedges do nothing, but it does seem that people prefer to show off axes more these days than use them.
I couldn't agree less with your statement about wedges. First of all, they're not fancy. The standard Pine or Ash wedges you might be able to find in a hardware store are too soft and in my experience they crack very easily and deform when you try to drive them home. The two species I mentioned, Osage Orange and Black Locust are extremely hard, oily, dense, rot-resistant wood. Not only do these species of wood hold better, when used for wedges, they resist cracking, dry rot and shrinkage (from neglect) and are resistant to deformation as they are pounded home. I couldn't care less how my wedges look - other than the fact that they're not all cracked up. There's nothing worse than spending the time to properly install a nice new Hickory haft only to have a crappy wedge split into pieces as you attempt to drive it home. Additionally, very few people have seen my axes and it's not like I'm using Purple Heart w/ a contrasting perpendicular wedge(s) - my axes are restored to perform properly and safely in use.
Regarding handles, did you have House Handles hand-pick your hafts? My experience with them does not mirror yours. What is your "more reliable source" for handles? I'd like to take a look at their Hickory.
Last edited by High_Noon; 06/18/20.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
I'd say I'm right about the 50% on rejects from House Handles. If I order from them and need 5 handles, I order a dozen so I'll get 5 good ones. That's how I did it in the past, I have since found a more reliable source.
Fancy wood wedges do nothing, but it does seem that people prefer to show off axes more these days than use them.
I totally disagree with your statement about wedges. First of all, they're not fancy. The standard Pine or Ash wedges you might be able to find in a hardware store are too soft and in my experience they crack very easily and deform when you try to drive them home. The two species I mentioned, Osage Orange and Black Locust are extremely hard, oily, dense, rot resistant wood. Not only to these species of wood hold better, when used for wedges, they resist cracking, dry rot and shrinkage (from neglect) and are deformation resistant as they are pounded home. I couldn't care less how my wedges look - other than the fact that they're not all cracked up. There's nothing worse than spending the time to properly install a nice new Hickory haft only to have a crappy wedge split into pieces as you attempt to drive it home. Additionally, very few people have seen my axes and it's not like I'm using Purple Heart w/ a contrasting perpendicular wedge(s) - my axes are restored to perform properly and safely in use.
Regarding handles, did you have House Handles hand-pick your hafts? My experience with them does not mirror yours. What is your "more reliable source" for handles? I'd like to take a look at their Hickory.
I think wedges should be softer than the wood you are putting them in. I guess if the goal is a crack the eye, use a harder wood, but that isn't my goal.
Local source on the handles and yes I've had hand picked from them. They often require a lot of wood removed and I've had more than my share of them warp severely.
RemModel8: Well, that doesn't exactly explain the wide-spread use of steel wedges (which I do not use), but to each his own. I'm not sure why anyone in their right mind would try to intentionally crack or split an eye, so I'm not sure what you mean by that statement.
Everyone has their own way of doing things and if you've been successful with your method, great. I'm not here to tell you otherwise, just to relay my experience.
Granted, I haven't purchased as many handles as you have from House Handles, but if yours are warping then they must be using Hickory that hasn't been aged/dried properly or long enough. I will look for a different source. I found an alternative to House Handles once, but I cannot remember the name of the company.
Last edited by High_Noon; 06/18/20.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
Very cool vid HN! I found my wife’s grandfather’s ax the other day. Kelly Perfect. I’d like to re-haft it for our boy so he’ll have something from his great grandfather. Any suggestions to keep it as original as possible? TIA.
The Kelly Perfect is a great axe - very high-quality and excellent steel. How old is your boy? What size/weight/pattern is his great grandfather's axe? I don't recommend a double bit for a novice so if it's a double, you can restore it and give it to him after he gains a certain level of experience with a single bit. If the head is 3 lbs. or more, he might have difficulty wielding it until he's older and stronger. Just continually remind him that as soon as he begins to tire, it's time to stop - RIGHT NOW - and take a break to avoid a potentially bad accident.
In my opinion, what you should be striving for in this restoration is safe usability. Originality is not paramount when restoring an axe, unless it's a very rare piece like a Black Raven or similar, As long as you don't do something goofy like paint it some terrible color, engrave the head, or burnish and stain the haft some ridiculous color, you'll be fine. Maybe using a wood burner (on the haft) with your boy's name and his Grandfather's name, plus the date of restoration and maybe the date his great granddad acquired the axe would be a nice touch. It's more important to restore it to a condition where it is sharp, well-hung (not unlike myself, incidentally) and is safe to use. Your boy's great grandfather would be proud to know that his great grandson is using and deriving enjoyment from his old axe, regardless of whether or not it's exactly as original. Safety is more important as is saving a piece of your family's history.
If you think the the original haft can be saved, this is preferable and there are methods to properly remove the original without damaging it so that it can be refurbished. If the original haft needs replacement, you should find one as close to the original pattern as possible but this is not entirely necessary - within a few inches is acceptable unless it is a boy's axe - then 28" is about right. If the head is larger/heavier, you could replace it with an octagon haft, which might be a good choice depending on the pattern/weight. Many believe that octagon handles offer the user greater purchase on the haft, which is debatable. Just make sure that you remove any shellac or varnish prior to hanging. Such coatings are mainly utilized to make them look shiny and pretty in the store and should be removed prior to use - they make the haft considerably more slick, which can be dangerous.
In my opinion, Hickory is one of the best woods you can choose for an axe handle. You want to make sure that the grain runs as close to parallel to the orientation of the blade as possible. Definitely not perpendicular. When you begin to shape the haft so it fits the eye properly, make sure the top of the haft is proud of the head by about a 1/2" - you can trim it later - once trimmed, it needs to be at least 1/4" proud of the head.
Be aware that the shaping process is largely trial and error and you will have to insert the haft into the eye and then remove it several times before you get the correct fit. If you are unsure how to do this, let me know and I can provide you with more information. Use a wood rasp, sharp knife and/or an Iwaski Carving File (if you can find one) to properly shape the haft.
Make sure to use a quality wedge. I don't recommend steel wedges or steel "cylinders" as wedges. Once you've fitted the haft, trim the top about 1/4" - 3/8" proud and soak the head for a few days in BLO. This swells the wood and provides protection as well. Then wipe off any excess and give the bare haft 3 or 4 coats of BLO, let soak in for a bit and then wipe off the excess. Do not let it dry before attempting to wipe it down or else you'll have a gooey mess to contend with.
Regarding the Kelly head itself, what is the condition? Is it rusted, pitted, or cracked? How much of the bit steel remains and are there any chips in the bit? Has the axe been used as a hammer to drive steel wedges and if so has the poll been deformed? There are methods for dealing with each of these issues, except an excessively worn bit. As you may be aware, axes are constructed of two different types of steel (as shown in the video I posted) and if the bit is worn back too far, there's really nothing that can be done to save it. Methods for rust removal include a wire wheel, a vinegar soak and electrolysis. Depending on the condition of the head when the rust has been removed, progressively finer sand paper can be used to achieve the finish you desire. I've seen heads finished to such a level that they shine like a mirror, as they've been sanded to a very fine grit and then polished. While cool looking, I don't see much point to achieving this level of finish - besides it requires an incredible amount of effort and many, many hours over a period of days or weeks to achieve.
Sharpening: I've always been able to achieve a shaving-sharp axe with just a Mill Bastard file and I've found no reason to hone a bit any further. Some people do it, I have done it, but in my estimation, there's not much point. At the very least, you'll need to strop the blade on a stout piece of leather after sharpening with a file in order to remove the wire edge.
Head protection: I've used BLO, oil, wax and cold blueing to protect an axe head from rusting - all have worked reasonably well. Cold blueing provides a fairly dramatic look. If you're adept at leather work, you can construct a sheath yourself in any pattern you choose.
I really need to know the condition of the head (and maybe a photo or two) before advising you further. Also, what I've written here is based upon my experience only. This is not a definitive guide, but these methods have worked for me. Others may advise you differently and you will need to decide which methods are right for you and your boy's axe, but the information I have posted here should be enough get you started. Please feel free to contact me with any additional questions.
Last edited by High_Noon; 06/18/20.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
It appears to me that you might know something about an axe. I was born and raised in the Adirondack mountains. We owned 156 acres and over a 100 were wood lot and a maple sugar lot. Dad gave me my first axe when I was 8, a small Plumb. The year was 1947. Loved working in the woods. One of our sources of income was selling fire wood and hardwood logs. Most felling was done by axe and occasionally crosscut saw. All liming with the axe and all splitting by axe. All our axes were double bit. Dad ground a different angle on the blade for chopping and splitting. We had different axes for hardwood and softwood. Each ground differently. The foot peddled grind stone did the shaping. White Ash for the haft and Beech for wedges. Believe all our axes were Kelley or Plumb. For me the double bit axe is a far superior tool for splitting than the single bit. I learned as a young lad to snap a little twist in my wrist just as the axe hit the block. That technique will send the split piece spinning off to my left. A single bit chops and a double splits. A splitting mall is far too laborious, clumsy, and slow.
BE STRONG IN THE LORD, AND IN HIS MIGHTY POWER. ~ Ephesians 6:10
Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery. --Winston Churchill
Rug3: I know a bit (ha!), perhaps, but I don’t claim to be an expert. It certainly sounds like you had a lot of fun in the woods when you were a youngster. It also sounds like you became accustomed to hard work at a young age. Those early outdoor experiences carry a lot of weight with a young boy and serve him well as he becomes a man and throughout his life.
I agree with a lot of what you wrote in your post, Like your Pop, mine also taught me to file a different angle on each bit of a double, but in our case the narrow angle grind was for choppin’ and the wide-angle grind for chopping roots and such. The slim profile of a good quality double bit balances really well. I particularly like Chemical doubles and I’m on the lookout for a 1939 model - I want to refurbish one for my Dad (the year of his birth). I’ve split wood with a double on occasion, but your account has put me in mind to use a double for splitting duty more often. Also, it looks like you and my Dad were born the same year.
I dislike mauls as well. I remember once, when I was a youngster, Dad brought home a brand new spring-loaded splitting maul – I believe it was an American-made Chopper brand. I used it a few times, but hated it and it hasn’t been used since – it’s still sitting in the corner of the workshop.
Last edited by High_Noon; 06/18/20.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
Duck, stop clowning about and go get an old Norlund camp axe if you want something short (24") and handy for light use in camp, on the other hand if you are breathing funny and having visions of Paul Bunyan you should probably just get a full sized axe and be done with it.
Thanks for the suggestions! I'll take a look. Made in the USA is a hard requirement. I fly the flag in my camp so I'm not about to chop wood with something from Mexico or China.
Council tool is about your only USA foundry left. Nothing wrong with a Swedish made axe but it'll set you back quite a bit more.
“You never need fear a man, no matter what his size. When danger threatens, call on me, and I will equalize.” Samuel Colt.
�Common sense is genius dressed up in work clothes.� - Ralph Waldo Emerson
Scrap yards, scrap piles at farms, lots of places to find axes/ ax heads that are serviceable without buying a soft chinese ax made out of cast melted junk scraps Whoever owned my place surely didn't know how to replace a handle, because there was a small pile of claw hammers with broken handles. I have several double bit true temper Kelly perfect axes that were tossed because of broken handles
RemModel8: Well, that doesn't exactly explain the wide-spread use of steel wedges (which I do not use), but to each his own. I'm not sure why anyone in their right mind would try to intentionally crack or split an eye, so I'm not sure what you mean by that statement.
Everyone has their own way of doing things and if you've been successful with your method, great. I'm not here to tell you otherwise, just to relay my experience.
Granted, I haven't purchased as many handles as you have from House Handles, but if yours are warp
ing then they must be using Hickory that hasn't been aged/dried properly or long enough. I will look for a different source. I found an alternative to House Handles once, but I cannot remember the name of the company.
The point being, a wedge made of wood harder than that handle is not a good way to fly. Very hard wedges will also sometimes want to jump out, as they don't have the bite as the softer wood.
I don't use metal wedges either.
I'm with you on sharpening, all you need is a mill file, I like using Bahco files. I find many axes have too high a centerline and it takes some work to re-profile them.
I'm guessing the majority of homeowners in the past 60 years that bought an axe, did so to split some wood, hence the high centerline.
I've also been sitting on 36" Adirondack handle for the last 2 years, just waiting for the right double bit head to come along.
What double bit you looking for?
I was thinking about a 32" octagon for the '39 Chemical I'm looking for. Maybe I can give you a heads up if I run across the one you are looking for.
Last edited by High_Noon; 06/19/20.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
Well, good luck finding it. I've been looking for a '39 Chemical FOR YEARS. I've found '44, '40, '38, '23 etc., but no '39's.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
Council tool will have something for you. Good quality and made in USA. I have a Hudson Bay 18" and a jersey axe, both are great quality. Bailey's online will treat you right.
It's good to lead - it's better to lead by example.
Snow and Neally are still made in Maine and not outlandishly priced as so many imports. Make a good 2and1/4 pound "best quality" for a good price - $59. OldCuss
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