hey guys- i am lookin for a decent recurve-- i'll shoot a few at a pro shop -- but was wondering about draw lengths on them. I like the looks of the pse kudu heritage and thats right about the price range i am lookin. the only concern i have is the draw lengths... i shoot a 30 inch arrow (almost 31 with knock and field tip) anyone if that may be a problem with the pse kudu? any input would be awesome!
How long is the bow? Generally, you'll not pull a recurve as far back as a compound, and you may find your draw length is not 30 inches at all.
The length of the bow matters because if you pull a short bow, say below 60" back a long way, the string will pinch your fingers. Not familiar with the bow you mentioned.
Most recurves are rated at a certain poundage at 28", but that's just a rating. You'll pick up about 3 extra pounds per inch over 28" and get better performance. So, if the bow is rated at 60# and you truly pull it at 30, you should be pulling about 66#.
Not many problems you can't fix With a 1911 and a 30-06
Adamada, Think the PSE Kudu is 58" nock to nock length, which in my experience as one who shoots a 30" arrow on traditional bows is too short. Not only will the string angle at full draw be very acute, ( even with a release aid..:(..)but the bow itself may not do well drawn that far.
A check with PSE would give you the answer to the latter question.
I'd choose a recurve that was 62-66"NTN and a quality one as well. Martin has a long and good reputation ( Damon Howatt) but they are more money than the PSE...( and worth it)
You may do well finding a used recurve and avoid paying new prices also. IF the bow has been well cared for and not damaged or have limb twist from improper stringing, even if it's 10-15 years old it will still be reliable and shoot well.Jim Here's one on E Bay for example, and older Saxon recurve reminiscent of the Bear Archery early recurve days, but very nice..:)Jim( not mine)
Rule one I think is don't "over bow" yourself, an affliction most younger guys with too much testosterone might do.
Also, generally, and the old "all things being equal" caveat, longer bows pull smoother than short bows and with less finger pinch; that said a 62" minimum is a reasonable short length unless you have special circumstances. A shorter bow is certainly handier in a blind or on a tree stand but 62" will not handicap you too much even in those circumstances.
There are a ton of custom bow cobblers out there and probably a lot for sale in the back of Traditional Archery. However, as Jim mentioned, Martin is a good name and its Windstalker (IIRC) is a very good bow for the money..or at least was. On the other hand a take-down recurve is a very handy thing and if it's from a small custom shop you have the option of adding another set of limbs (shorter, longer, higher or lower poundage) in the future.
When you get set up you can laugh at your buddy with his compound like I do as he adds another "trinket of the week" to it. Ok, compound users,....just kidding (partially )
Aside from the length of the bow, a more definitive assessment of how it'll perform and feel beyond the AMO 28" draw weight is a force draw curve.
Essentially, one weighs the draw weight from 24" draw to 28" and charts the draw length and weight recorded at each inch of draw done on a regular-timed, (not holding too long at any spot) weighing on the wall scale. Then he places those corresponding dots on a simple graph .
Then chart what the bow gains in draw weight on up to your draw length of 30" or whatever. Connect the dots..
The best bows will NOT show a marked increase per inch of draw over 28"...usually 2-4#s per inch is decent.
IF the bow gains an abnormal amount when drawn past 28" AMO, then that indicates several things:
The bow will be more tricky to shoot consistently( the draw length and loose MUST be precise) and also, the bow itself may be in danger of being over stressed-overdrawn..Jim
thanks guys... i appreciate everything. -- the 30 inch arrow i shoot puts almost an inch out infront of the rest... i am just not sure what that would mean for the exact draw length i have. i am guessing about around 29. i am 6'1'' with a 75 and 1/2" arm span... i was lookin at the martin x-200... tryin to not spend a ton -- any body know anything about that bow? also... any ideas how to determin a good weight? i can pull a lot not a problem... and can shoot 35 # no prob all day... thanks- adam
Adammada... I can pull and shoot well and accurately 75-80# longbows and recurves 'all day' ( 200 + arrows and several miles of roving, stump shooting or 3-D..
What draw weight are you comfortable-used to holding? ( not talking about peak weight on a compound bow but actual draw weight)
As a traditional stickbow hunter-shooter, I don't 'hold' for more than five seconds and that is at the longer distances in practice( 100 yards on a 10" target)
Most hunting shots with a stickbow are nothing like typical compound shooters will do..
The game-mark..the spot, the draw, anchor, loose is all done more akin to a shotgunner on a fast flying quail than a bench rest shooter with deliberation. But inlike the sporting clays or bird hunter, you have a single arrow that needs to hit the mark...but it's that fast, smooth, born of practice, timing and shooting.
Tell us a bit more of where you've been ...what archery you have done-experienced and we can maybe help you a bit.
The Martin X-200 is their lower end bow..OK..but not a bow I'd even buy used.Jim
lets see... i dont have too much shooting experience... other than what i have done in the back yard--- i just have used my dads old bow... 35# ... but its an ambidextrous bow... and deffinatly doesn't really shoot completelly straight HA HA... but i shoot a lot cuz it still goes the right direction-- i have shot some other bows... both recurve and compound... i am a middle level shooter, but beginner at lookin for equipment. just lookin to not spend a ton but get a decent bow. if i can remember for sure.. the most comfortable bow i shot was at 45 pounds... but i know i can pull more now so i was thinking 50#... i ll shoot for sure at the shop... mostly i am tryin to find is a decent bow... 60-62 inches ... that doesn't cost a ton---
I;m fond of Dammon-Howatts (owned by Martin) I have a mamba, super diablo, and have shot dream catcher (tacky) and the hunter (my dad owns). also have the x-200 RH for my wife. well made, durable, not overly pricey.
A modern 50# bow will take any game you're likely to encounter, except dangerous game. Just make sure the arrow weight is 9-10 grains per draw weight.
I have two 50# glass bows, a 21st Century longbow reflex/deflex and a Jack Howard Gamegetter.
A friend of mine killed a female elk with a 50# selfbow made of hickory. Range was short, and penetration was almost, but not quite complete. The cow died in 15 yards.
Sharp broadheads. I have two old Bear bows in the 42-25# range. That was considered an adequate bow in the early 60s. I used to shoot 80-90# bows, but was in reality getting about 50# from them because I coudln't pull them 28".
I did serious damage to my rotator cuff with a 92$ longbow. They shock the hand in addition to the weight.
The trend lately seems to be going toward lighter bows and sharp broadheads. Deer are very delicate critters, and you can punch thru their ribs easily, and get a pass-through with a 50# bow.
So, as Jim and others have said, DO NOT overbow yourself. That's a great way to pick up bad shooting form habits. If I was shopping for a bow, I'd go to a Traditional archer shoot, or to a Buckarama, where they have dealers with used recurves and longbows you can hold to see what best suits you.
Not many problems you can't fix With a 1911 and a 30-06
I have 2 Bear Mag Takedowns RH 60" in 60 and 65 lb draw. these are the finest bows I've ever shot. The limbs were purchased from Three Rivers at $420.00 per set and are Fast Flite compatible. Beautiful, functional bows. Bad arthritis has ended it all for me :-(
The older I get................the better I was :-)
if a stepped up to the next level - i like the martin hunter and the bear super kodiak. is it worth it to go up to a $500 bow compared to a $300 one? i guess i'd prob end up moving up in a few years anyways- any one have a say between those?
Adamada, Regardless of the money, in my long experience, the Howatt( now Martin) Hunter is the better bow. You can find them on e-bay priced well and also on the traditional archery website, TRADGANG, there is a classified section. IF you buy used,ask questions about any damage to glass, limb twist etc. Here's an older( great condition) Howatt Hi Speed F/S( not mine)
and IF you are interested in a Martin Hatfield takedown( and think 60#@28" isn't too much) this buy it now offer is excellent. I checked with seller and there's not a mark on the bow..as new..Jim
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