I know next to nothing about AR's.... my question is....can a "quality" rifle be built on a polymer lower? It would be just a standard 5.56 SHTF gun.... nothing fancy, iron sights..... 16" barrel.... dependability would be the main objective with weight second. Thx.
The KE Arms poly lower is very nice. Light weight, and a bit cheaper to build than a traditional lower. Makes a nice and lightweight utility rifle.
That being said, I don't know if I would pick one as a SHTF Zombie Apocalypse Blue Helmet Invasion gun. Too unproven to rely on for when the aliens land.
The KE Arms poly lower is very nice. Light weight, and a bit cheaper to build than a traditional lower. Makes a nice and lightweight utility rifle.
That being said, I don't know if I would pick one as a SHTF Zombie Apocalypse Blue Helmet Invasion gun. Too unproven to rely on for when the aliens land.
Would draw the line above a polymer lower for SHTF. Probably be fine as a bedroom gun. Don't like to drop my guns, can only remember doing it once. But it would be nice to know the thing won't break. Or snap off on a cold day due to bumping on something.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
It's not worth the weight savings to me. An aluminum lower isn't exactly heavy, and I can save more on the option alone with the 3x micro prism that I've got on my current grab and go backup rifle compared to any duty grade LPVO.
Some of y’all’s recommendations for SHTF would be better suited for a fart on a windy day.
And the idea that a single AR in any configuration is going to save your dumb azz when SHTF is falicy.
That's why you should have many, in different configuration.
I have a few 80% polymer lowers that still haven't been milled. Never know the way this country is going
Missed my point. If and when SHTF no matter how many AR’s you have you lose. Numbers and odds are definitely against you. A valiant fight may be put up but that’s all.
Kaiser builds a quality lower, I think they only sell matched sets.
Definitely not all polys equal.
Someone gave me a poly lower from sportsman's and it broke at the pivot pin taking it apart.
Have built a couple 80 lowers from Tennessee arms and their takedown pin holes are really loose. Fixed them with brass bushings, what a PITA, no good reason to mess with 80s in my opinion.
For those without thumbs, it's s Garden fookin Island, not Hawaii
Some of y’all’s recommendations for SHTF would be better suited for a fart on a windy day.
And the idea that a single AR in any configuration is going to save your dumb azz when SHTF is falicy.
That's why you should have many, in different configuration.
I have a few 80% polymer lowers that still haven't been milled. Never know the way this country is going
Missed my point. If and when SHTF no matter how many AR’s you have you lose. Numbers and odds are definitely against you. A valiant fight may be put up but that’s all.
True. Can't argue with that. Better to go down fighting than licking someone's boots though
I have a couple of Tennesse Arms polymer lowers. They are light weight and help reduce the wight of an AR. But as I recall, they were produced to be cost effective when it looked like hillary clintoon was about to be elected president and AR lowers were going for some pretty high prices. Now that hillary is nothing more than a bad memory the lower costs of producing polymer lowers is pretty much a moot point.
I prefer Aero Precision lowers and have found those to be affordable and very well made. I'm thinking of making some .22 rifles out of the polymer lowers I have. And, I am considering building a lightweight ATV gun and a carry rifle for when I go hiking in the woods.
All in all, with the prices of lowers now, I see limited uses for a polymer lower.
kwg
For liberals and anarchists, power and control is opium, selling envy is the fastest and easiest way to get it. TRR. American conservative. Never trust a white liberal. Malcom X Current NRA member.
In a SHTF scenario, I would prefer the peace of mind of an alloy receiver. If price isn't an issue, I'd buy an alloy receiver. If price is an issue, I'd wait long enough to save enough money to afford to buy an alloy receiver.
I put together a dozen or so ARs on Plum Crazy lowers back in 2010/11. AFAIK they are still working, but most went to friends who are not high volume demanding users. I kept one that has been in both M4 and M16A1 formats, have fired around 5K rounds through it, and haven't had any issues with it. That said, the AR that I keep in my vehicle is a S&W M&P.
If you want a reliable "SHTF" AR, I would suggest buying one.
ARs are fun to build, however there are plenty of frankenguns that get built, especially first timers.
Reliability is #1, IMO.
Especially when PSA will put their Andro Corp 16" mid length gas rifle on sale for $399 again reasonably soon. Granted, I swapped the trigger and charging handle (gas buster for shooting with a can) but it was fine"as is"
If you want a reliable "SHTF" AR, I would suggest buying one.
ARs are fun to build, however there are plenty of frankenguns that get built, especially first timers.
Reliability is #1, IMO.
So far, (knock on wood!) I haven't built an AR that wasn't reliable. I don't use any magic powders, glues, tools or sealants. Just assemble and shoot. At this point, I've only had two that failed a successful test fire. Both were errors I made in assembly. Reassembly corrected the problem.
If you want a reliable "SHTF" AR, I would suggest buying one.
ARs are fun to build, however there are plenty of frankenguns that get built, especially first timers.
Reliability is #1, IMO.
So far, (knock on wood!) I haven't built an AR that wasn't reliable. I don't use any magic powders, glues, tools or sealants. Just assemble and shoot. At this point, I've only had two that failed a successful test fire. Both were errors I made in assembly. Reassembly corrected the problem.
OP is in California, SAHTF (schit already……) He may already have the poly frame not sure if lowers are still available in CA Not that I know a whole lot about AR’s but a poly AR seems better than no AR when shtf.
If you want a reliable "SHTF" AR, I would suggest buying one.
ARs are fun to build, however there are plenty of frankenguns that get built, especially first timers.
Reliability is #1, IMO.
Especially when PSA will put their Andro Corp 16" mid length gas rifle on sale for $399 again reasonably soon. Granted, I swapped the trigger and charging handle (gas buster for shooting with a can) but it was fine"as is"
Thats hard to beat, I would be hard pressed to build one for less.
For those without thumbs, it's s Garden fookin Island, not Hawaii
If you want a reliable "SHTF" AR, I would suggest buying one.
ARs are fun to build, however there are plenty of frankenguns that get built, especially first timers.
Reliability is #1, IMO.
Especially when PSA will put their Andro Corp 16" mid length gas rifle on sale for $399 again reasonably soon. Granted, I swapped the trigger and charging handle (gas buster for shooting with a can) but it was fine"as is"
PSA has a 20" stainless 1-7" ROT barreled upper that is ready to drop in on sale today for $349.99.
I know next to nothing about AR's.... my question is....can a "quality" rifle be built on a polymer lower? It would be just a standard 5.56 SHTF gun.... nothing fancy, iron sights..... 16" barrel.... dependability would be the main objective with weight second. Thx.
I know next to nothing about AR's.... my question is....can a "quality" rifle be built on a polymer lower? It would be just a standard 5.56 SHTF gun.... nothing fancy, iron sights..... 16" barrel.... dependability would be the main objective with weight second. Thx.
If it's a SHTF rifle, do you really want a plastic/polymer lower?
Slaves get what they need. Free men get what they want.
I wouldn't chance it, unless the design has been reinforced they tend to be weak around the buffer area. I've got one I'm going to be using for a lightweight but that's only because I got it for free with a few other parts
OP is in California, SAHTF (schit already……) Not that I know a whole lot about AR’s but a poly AR seems better than no AR when shtf.
If the ghoulie attacking you is using their hands, a rock or sharp stick is helpful! LOL!
BTW! LA city workers are on a 24 hour "walk out". Notably sanitation workers, zoo workers, city pool lifeguards, etc, etc. Travel advisory is to give yourself another hour at LAX to negotiate the picket lines!
THOSE HELPFUL UNION GUYS (T.H.U.G.!) at your service!
In a SHTF scenario, I would prefer the peace of mind of an alloy receiver. If price isn't an issue, I'd buy an alloy receiver. If price is an issue, I'd wait long enough to save enough money to afford to buy an alloy receiver.
I put together a dozen or so ARs on Plum Crazy lowers back in 2010/11. AFAIK they are still working, but most went to friends who are not high volume demanding users. I kept one that has been in both M4 and M16A1 formats, have fired around 5K rounds through it, and haven't had any issues with it. That said, the AR that I keep in my vehicle is a S&W M&P.
I built a bunch years ago also. Friends are still shooting them and have had no problems. I still have on plumcrazy myself that works great. I could see problem with wearing the holes egg shaped with a lot of rapid fire.
For what it’s worth, my 11 yr old daughter, last year when she was 10, built a Anderson lower Larue guts Larue trigger Sanders armory $200 upper Magpul grip and stock I forget which buffer, but it sure shoots smooth. She swiped a vari x3 1.5-5 from me that I bought for $100 and sent back to leupold for a rebuild. Leupold cantilevered mount when midway had em on sale last year It might be a $600 project
SHTF - I'm grabbing everything I can carry - regardless of construction. No gun left behind....
I have a Grock - but I also have 1911's. I don't anticipate ever having a polymer AR, mostly because I don't have a personal need for the "advantage" of its lightweight over metal.
Good grief folks, if things go south in a bad way, do you really want to grab the cheapest thing you can find? Is this how you have planned to save the world?
I have Glocks but I don’t butt stroke anyone with them.
I really hope y’all will buy better stuff, cause when I conquer the world, I don’t want a bunch of crappy guns.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with a quality poly lower, but they are not all equal.
With that said, good polys are not cheap. Unless the goal is lightweight, there is no reason to use one. My point is compared to alloy you are not giving up durability or reliability.
For those without thumbs, it's s Garden fookin Island, not Hawaii
Some of y’all’s recommendations for SHTF would be better suited for a fart on a windy day.
This is correct ⬆️ A plastic frame little shipbox 5.56 when the shtf? Better set your sights a little higher
I take it........You dont own a Glock....
Nope! Don’t own even one of those uncomfortable ugly bastards lol. Even less capable than a plastic 5.56. Who are you all kidding with your toys? A 9mm Glock and a plastic frame 5.56 Might as well say fisher- price on the side!
You say shtf use? There are far more durable, reliable, accurate, powerful options. Those things are toys
Some of y’all’s recommendations for SHTF would be better suited for a fart on a windy day.
This is correct ⬆️ A plastic frame little shipbox 5.56 when the shtf? Better set your sights a little higher
I take it........You dont own a Glock....
Glock was designed around a polymer frame. The AR was not.
Must have been owned by sctick, just proves some people can break anything. Good polymer is just at tough as alloy. One picture of a broken lower means nothing. Lol
For those without thumbs, it's s Garden fookin Island, not Hawaii
Some of y’all’s recommendations for SHTF would be better suited for a fart on a windy day.
This is correct ⬆️ A plastic frame little shipbox 5.56 when the shtf? Better set your sights a little higher
I take it........You dont own a Glock....
Glock was designed around a polymer frame. The AR was not.
Must have been owned by sctick, just proves some people can break anything. Good polymer is just at tough as alloy. One picture of a broken lower means nothing. Lol
That's where they break. Unless it's a KABOOM then they disintegrate.
Alloy receivers are cheap. No reason to monkey with polymer AR's
Some of y’all’s recommendations for SHTF would be better suited for a fart on a windy day.
This is correct ⬆️ A plastic frame little shipbox 5.56 when the shtf? Better set your sights a little higher
I take it........You dont own a Glock....
Glock was designed around a polymer frame. The AR was not.
Must have been owned by sctick, just proves some people can break anything. Good polymer is just at tough as alloy. One picture of a broken lower means nothing. Lol
That's where they break. Unless it's a KABOOM then they disintegrate.
Alloy receivers are cheap. No reason to monkey with polymer AR's
Some of y’all’s recommendations for SHTF would be better suited for a fart on a windy day.
This is correct ⬆️ A plastic frame little shipbox 5.56 when the shtf? Better set your sights a little higher
I take it........You dont own a Glock....
Glock was designed around a polymer frame. The AR was not.
Must have been owned by sctick, just proves some people can break anything. Good polymer is just at tough as alloy. One picture of a broken lower means nothing. Lol
That's where they break. Unless it's a KABOOM then they disintegrate.
Alloy receivers are cheap. No reason to monkey with polymer AR's
Some of y’all’s recommendations for SHTF would be better suited for a fart on a windy day.
This is correct ⬆️ A plastic frame little shipbox 5.56 when the shtf? Better set your sights a little higher
I take it........You dont own a Glock....
Glock was designed around a polymer frame. The AR was not.
Must have been owned by sctick, just proves some people can break anything. Good polymer is just at tough as alloy. One picture of a broken lower means nothing. Lol
That's where they break. Unless it's a KABOOM then they disintegrate.
Alloy receivers are cheap. No reason to monkey with polymer AR's
I own several polymer lowers I bought from Tennessee Arms just around the time of the 2016 election and it looked like the hilldog (hillary clintoon) was going to be elected. They actually work very well especially if you want to build a lightweight rifle.
I got a wild hair recently and dug out one of the polymer lowers from a work bench drawer and put a new Delton 16" lightweight barrel on an upper I had laying around. I don't know the weight since I don't have a scale. With the scope and the aluminum blast can on the muzzle I'm thinking a little over 7 lbs. I can only assume it is just a couple of ounces lighter than if I would of had another aluminum lower to build on. In other words, I didn't save a lot of weight using a polymer lower. It's just seemed like a good idea at the time. I'm not disappointed in the results.
The next step is to paint it some kind of fall/winter colors. I tested a load yesterday of 24 grains AA2230 and a 52 grain Speer flat based hollow point. That load looks like it has potential. This is the end result: kwg
For liberals and anarchists, power and control is opium, selling envy is the fastest and easiest way to get it. TRR. American conservative. Never trust a white liberal. Malcom X Current NRA member.
I own several polymer lowers I bought from Tennessee Arms just around the time of the 2016 election and it looked like the hilldog (hillary clintoon) was going to be elected. They actually work very well especially if you want to build a lightweight rifle.
I got a wild hair recently and dug out one of the polymer lowers from a work bench drawer and put a new Delton 16" lightweight barrel on an upper I had laying around. I don't know the weight since I don't have a scale. With the scope and the aluminum blast can on the muzzle I'm thinking a little over 7 lbs. I can only assume it is just a couple of ounces lighter than if I would of had another aluminum lower to build on. In other words, I didn't save a lot of weight using a polymer lower. It's just seemed like a good idea at the time. I'm not disappointed in the results.
The next step is to paint it some kind of fall/winter colors. I tested a load yesterday of 24 grains AA2230 and a 52 grain Speer flat based hollow point. That load looks like it has potential. This is the end result: kwg
I think it looks pretty cool as-is, with all the mixed up colors. 👍
It's definitely a Frankengun. It has one of the Midway USA $73 drop in triggers and an Unbranded front hand guard. I bought the gas block a couple of years ago for like $14 from Midway USA and kept it in the AR junk box until I found a project for it. The gun is a bit over gassed so I had to put in an H2 buffer and an M16 BCG. Those 2 items put a damper on just how far the brass flies but they did add weight. I found the 24 grains of AA2230 and the 52 grain bullet to be dependable at the range as well as being accurate.
I'll get it back to the range here real soon and get it hot just to make sure it's dependable. I have had good luck with DelTon barrels and I picked it because of the 1 in 9 twist and the lightweight profile. Probably the heaviest bullet I will shoot is a 55 grain reload. Of course, the goal is for the gun to be accurate and dependable. The fun factor comes later.
For liberals and anarchists, power and control is opium, selling envy is the fastest and easiest way to get it. TRR. American conservative. Never trust a white liberal. Malcom X Current NRA member.
I own several polymer lowers I bought from Tennessee Arms just around the time of the 2016 election and it looked like the hilldog (hillary clintoon) was going to be elected. They actually work very well especially if you want to build a lightweight rifle.
I got a wild hair recently and dug out one of the polymer lowers from a work bench drawer and put a new Delton 16" lightweight barrel on an upper I had laying around. I don't know the weight since I don't have a scale. With the scope and the aluminum blast can on the muzzle I'm thinking a little over 7 lbs. I can only assume it is just a couple of ounces lighter than if I would of had another aluminum lower to build on. In other words, I didn't save a lot of weight using a polymer lower. It's just seemed like a good idea at the time. I'm not disappointed in the results.
The next step is to paint it some kind of fall/winter colors. I tested a load yesterday of 24 grains AA2230 and a 52 grain Speer flat based hollow point. That load looks like it has potential. This is the end result: kwg
Nice rifle, I have built a couple using TA polys, Intially I thought they pretty decent, however I had some issues with the holes in the lower for the takedown pins, they were tapered and I had the pin come completely out of the lower when separating the lowers. Bit of PITA as the detent then moves into the pin hole and you have to remove the buffer assembly to fix. I ended up making bushings to fit the lower, it worked but also a PITA.
I assume you haven't had any issues with this..?
For those without thumbs, it's s Garden fookin Island, not Hawaii
Hello John I have not had any issues with the pins coming out or the holes elongating. I did tap the hole where the detent goes in for the rear pin with a 4x40 Allen screw. You have to cut a link or 2 off of the spring or the pin is hard to move but everything for the most part seems to stay put and is working well.
The biggest issue I have found is one of my lowers holds the buffer back from the end of the bolt carrier. This tends to put little dents all the way around the buffer from it hitting the buffer retainer pin and not coming to rest against the bolt carrier. It appears the location where the hole is, is simply drilled out of spec. I stopped using that one and have always thought I might make it into a .22 rifle.
kwg
For liberals and anarchists, power and control is opium, selling envy is the fastest and easiest way to get it. TRR. American conservative. Never trust a white liberal. Malcom X Current NRA member.
Hello John I have not had any issues with the pins coming out or the holes elongating. I did tap the hole where the detent goes in for the rear pin with a 4x40 Allen screw. You have to cut a link or 2 off of the spring or the pin is hard to move but everything for the most part seems to stay put and is working well.
The biggest issue I have found is one of my lowers holds the buffer back from the end of the bolt carrier. This tends to put little dents all the way around the buffer from it hitting the buffer retainer pin and not coming to rest against the bolt carrier. It appears the location where the hole is, is simply drilled out of spec. I stopped using that one and have always thought I might make it into a .22 rifle.
kwg
Maybe TA fixed the problem, I had brought it to their attention. Those holes appear to be molded and not drilled, maybe they were tapered so they came out of the mold easier..? Just guessing.
I don't think it's good to have a space between the BCG and the buffer spring. However no first hand experience with that specifically, just something I recall reading when I was building these. More so with a captive spring buffer.
I have removed the retainer for the buffer as I its a PITA removing captive spring buffers with the retainer.
For those without thumbs, it's s Garden fookin Island, not Hawaii
You got one of these? Custom full polymer gun modified by Bush Hog. Bought several to test. This one got a bit more testing than intended thanks to a pine stump hole. That threw the gun off the tractor fender gun hulder.
I cut the barrel off with a saws all, discovered the upper was cracked at the barrel nut, as normal in an airborne drop, not the buffer connection at the lower which rarely breaks compared to the BCGS- barrel extension joint area. Scope tube bent at the front ring. Popped a new upper and scope on it with new pins and it shoots 1/2 inch groups...
Sorry aluminum is the same as sorry polymer, just sorry crapola.
An original New Frontier full up polymer upper / lower set only has steel springs. So if planted correctly it might grow up one day to be a real AR. :-)
“To expect defeat is nine-tenths of defeat itself. It becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy. It is best to plan for all eventualities then believe in success, and only cross the failure bridge if you come to it." Francis Marion - The Swamp Fox
You got one of these? Custom full polymer gun modified by Bush Hog. Bought several to test. This one got a bit more testing than intended thanks to a pine stump hole. That threw the gun off the tractor fender gun hulder.
I cut the barrel off with a saws all, discovered the upper was cracked at the barrel nut, as normal in an airborne drop, not the buffer connection at the lower which rarely breaks compared to the BCGS- barrel extension joint area. Scope tube bent at the front ring. Popped a new upper and scope on it with new pins and it shoots 1/2 inch groups...
Sorry aluminum is the same as sorry polymer, just sorry crapola.
An original New Frontier full up polymer upper / lower set only has steel springs. So if planted correctly it might grow up one day to be a real AR. :-)
I am pretty sure TA never tested one of their lowers this way. I think I would be more upset about losing the barrel than a polymer lower. The TA lowers are relatively cheap now that the poverty pony (Anderson) lowers are so affordable.
I built mine to be lightweight and not Bush Hog proof. After thinking it over I really doubt you can grow another one simply by planting it. Bush Hog modified or not.
kwg
For liberals and anarchists, power and control is opium, selling envy is the fastest and easiest way to get it. TRR. American conservative. Never trust a white liberal. Malcom X Current NRA member.
Hello John I have not had any issues with the pins coming out or the holes elongating. I did tap the hole where the detent goes in for the rear pin with a 4x40 Allen screw. You have to cut a link or 2 off of the spring or the pin is hard to move but everything for the most part seems to stay put and is working well.
The biggest issue I have found is one of my lowers holds the buffer back from the end of the bolt carrier. This tends to put little dents all the way around the buffer from it hitting the buffer retainer pin and not coming to rest against the bolt carrier. It appears the location where the hole is, is simply drilled out of spec. I stopped using that one and have always thought I might make it into a .22 rifle.
kwg
Maybe TA fixed the problem, I had brought it to their attention. Those holes appear to be molded and not drilled, maybe they were tapered so they came out of the mold easier..? Just guessing.
I don't think it's good to have a space between the BCG and the buffer spring. However no first hand experience with that specifically, just something I recall reading when I was building these. More so with a captive spring buffer.
I have removed the retainer for the buffer as I its a PITA removing captive spring buffers with the retainer.
That's a good idea. I never thought about the captive spring buffer. Just eliminate the retainer, problem solved.
kwg
For liberals and anarchists, power and control is opium, selling envy is the fastest and easiest way to get it. TRR. American conservative. Never trust a white liberal. Malcom X Current NRA member.
Hello John I have not had any issues with the pins coming out or the holes elongating. I did tap the hole where the detent goes in for the rear pin with a 4x40 Allen screw. You have to cut a link or 2 off of the spring or the pin is hard to move but everything for the most part seems to stay put and is working well.
The biggest issue I have found is one of my lowers holds the buffer back from the end of the bolt carrier. This tends to put little dents all the way around the buffer from it hitting the buffer retainer pin and not coming to rest against the bolt carrier. It appears the location where the hole is, is simply drilled out of spec. I stopped using that one and have always thought I might make it into a .22 rifle.
kwg
Maybe TA fixed the problem, I had brought it to their attention. Those holes appear to be molded and not drilled, maybe they were tapered so they came out of the mold easier..? Just guessing.
I don't think it's good to have a space between the BCG and the buffer spring. However no first hand experience with that specifically, just something I recall reading when I was building these. More so with a captive spring buffer.
I have removed the retainer for the buffer as I its a PITA removing captive spring buffers with the retainer.
That's a good idea. I never thought about the captive spring buffer. Just eliminate the retainer, problem solved.
A little cheaper than the JP Enterprises, you will want to make sure when you lower the upper into place that the BCG and buffer are in contact, I have had to put a washer in the back of the buffer tube to close the gap, you probably already know this...
For those without thumbs, it's s Garden fookin Island, not Hawaii
Hello John I have not had any issues with the pins coming out or the holes elongating. I did tap the hole where the detent goes in for the rear pin with a 4x40 Allen screw. You have to cut a link or 2 off of the spring or the pin is hard to move but everything for the most part seems to stay put and is working well.
The biggest issue I have found is one of my lowers holds the buffer back from the end of the bolt carrier. This tends to put little dents all the way around the buffer from it hitting the buffer retainer pin and not coming to rest against the bolt carrier. It appears the location where the hole is, is simply drilled out of spec. I stopped using that one and have always thought I might make it into a .22 rifle.
kwg
Maybe TA fixed the problem, I had brought it to their attention. Those holes appear to be molded and not drilled, maybe they were tapered so they came out of the mold easier..? Just guessing.
I don't think it's good to have a space between the BCG and the buffer spring. However no first hand experience with that specifically, just something I recall reading when I was building these. More so with a captive spring buffer.
I have removed the retainer for the buffer as I its a PITA removing captive spring buffers with the retainer.
That's a good idea. I never thought about the captive spring buffer. Just eliminate the retainer, problem solved.
A little cheaper than the JP Enterprises, you will want to make sure when you lower the upper into place that the BCG and buffer are in contact, I have had to put a washer in the back of the buffer tube to close the gap, you probably already know this...
Thanks for the link. Everything I was seeing on Midway was $150. This is much more reasonable. Just what I needed, another reason to build another upper.
kwg
For liberals and anarchists, power and control is opium, selling envy is the fastest and easiest way to get it. TRR. American conservative. Never trust a white liberal. Malcom X Current NRA member.