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Hello, midwest hunter here that is heading to Wyoming for a DIY elk hunt. We will be in the sierra madre range from October 12-25, and I've been advised to bring tire chains. I have a complete set of 4 chains, that are cam lock with v-bar chains. I've practiced putting them on and off in the yard and feel confident i can do that in the field, but I've never driven with chains before.

Looking for some tips/advice on driving with chains and maybe some "whatever you do, don't do this" advice to keep me from doing something stupid.

Thanks All.

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just be sure to get them as tight as possible and use a good set of tensioners in the middle. The faster you travel the tighter you'll want them to be.


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Just go slow, avoid spinning the tires. Stop and tighten them after a couple of hundred yards. Then check them again in a little bit to be sure.

And just in case nobody mentions it, get them tight!


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Think centrifugal force. The looser they are, the wider they fly. There are lots of things under a pickup that don't do well in contact with flying steel.

Running them on bare roads will wear them out fast. Take them off as soon as you can safely.

Also, read your pickup's manual on chain type. Some don't have enough clearance for anything heavier than car chains. Some don't have the clearance for any chains at all on the front.
They might look good rolling straight, but what will they hit in a tight turn?


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Use them to get out, not to get in. Unless it's just driving on ice, then rock them both ways.


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Chains work best when you keep them loose and floor it. Don’t worry about clearance, they will beat themselves into submission.

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Originally Posted by K1500
Chains work best when you keep them loose and floor it. Don’t worry about clearance, they will beat themselves into submission.


Leave the tails loose at least.


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Originally Posted by Frozentexan
Hello, midwest hunter here that is heading to Wyoming for a DIY elk hunt. We will be in the sierra madre range from October 12-25, and I've been advised to bring tire chains. I have a complete set of 4 chains, that are cam lock with v-bar chains. I've practiced putting them on and off in the yard and feel confident i can do that in the field, but I've never driven with chains before.

Looking for some tips/advice on driving with chains and maybe some "whatever you do, don't do this" advice to keep me from doing something stupid.

Thanks All.

Matt
Keep your speed down.
If you hear any clanking, stop immediately and re-tighten.

One thing no one tells you is that the rubber band on the outside can sometimes not be enough for good tension.
Think about using bungies on the inside, that way you are tightening from from both sides.
Keep steel S-hooks away from your sidewalls.

Carry a tow strap (20') and some (5/8"- 3/4") shackles (clevises).
Best place to buy is at your local rigging shop.


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Originally Posted by BillyGoatGruff
Use them to get out, not to get in. Unless it's just driving on ice, then rock them both ways.

This is the best advise, other than keep them tight and go slow. ^^^^^

So, I guess I should say keep them tight and go slow.

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Better than the rubber or spring tighteners is some good quality NON-STRETCH rope and some knowledge about knots. Pull them tight with a truckers hitch.


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There are two types (MUDDERS and CHIPPERS)

What do you guys think about runing them only on the back of a 4X4? The rears always seen to have enough clearance.


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Check your owner's manual some new trucks, won't take chains. Not enough clearance. Especially on the font end Some cable can work on those models.

Put them on before you need them not after you get stuck.

In a 4wd, putting chains only on one axle can screw it up. If only one set of chains and the truck has clearance, always chain up the fronts


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In the winter I use chains everyday when in the bush.
I make it so the inside chain is exactly the length I need so as there is nothing whipping around to catch my brake lines etc.
I leave the outside with several links long, its easier to hook them, drive a short distance, then tighten.
I make sure to put a bungie on each one starting with the loose links on the outside as described.
I bend the bungie hook so it just hooks the chain link so it doesn't go through the sidewall.
Always carry several connecting links if case of a break.

On a four wheel drive, if your spinning your wheels then hopefully your chains are heavy duty and not cheap crap, a broken chain almost cost me my life, having to walk out of the bush in sub zero is to be avoided.

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I have an extra heavy pair that I got used years ago for a very low price. They were actually made for a skid steer with 1/4" links. I adapted them to my pickup. I've only used them once. On a hard road, they'll really get things shaking but in nasty stuff, those big links have lots of grip. My pickup is an '08 Dodge 2500. It has lots of room for front chains but I wouldn't put these heavy ones on the front. I'm not that trusting.


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Thanks all for the advice and tips. I'm in Michigan, so used to snow and ice, but never used chains over here.

When you talk about securing the "tails" of the chains, is that by attaching them back to the chain, or using a bungee cord to pull thmm tight and hook the bungee to opposite side of tire? I do like the idea about using 2x4 to drive up on to give some working room. I'll be using that tip for sure!


These seem to be what i would consider well made? They are made by ICC, international chain and car. I've got an 2003 f150, so clearance is better than on newer trucks. I will practice putting them on and taking them off a few more times.

Hopefully i wont need them, but better to have and not need than need and not have.

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If you get up much speed, the centrifugal force will overcome the bungee and let the tail fly. You need some extra links on the outside for adjustment but keep it to a minimum. If it's too long, you can use non-stretch rope to keep it from flying.
The 2x4 trick is a good one. I've done it that way for years.


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I'm trying something fancy this year, took a couple of scrap pieces of 2x8 lumber about a foot long, routed out 2 channels to lay the cross links in spaced to fit my chains. I expect it will be a step up from a 2x4.

Chains on both axles are great if your truck will handle them.

Chains on rear only is better than none. If I'm running chains there is enough slip I don't worry about driveline bind.

I'm thinking about buying some S clearance chains for front axle. Yes, less effective, but less chance of damage to truck. And I'm not on mountain "roads" in elk country

Last winter one of my cousins borrowed poor fitting chains, he spun his tires, chains flopped around and cut a brake line. He had an interesting drive home.

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also bring a snow shovel ,axe, bag of chicken rock grit and a dirt shovel . good luck,Pete53


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I've used a chainsaw to get out but only needed chains on a 4x4 to get into trouble. If you chain up going in you had better know what's up ahead.


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Oh, and just a a word to the wise…..it’s hardly any fun putting chains on after you get stuck. Especially in mud.


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