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Originally Posted by southtexas
Originally Posted by Redneck
The things usually necessary on a M70 are easily done and of little cost.. Some of the guys get into sleeving the bolt etc., but that's more for the serious bench-rest competitor who needs to get the last .002 out of a group.. I inspect every action that comes in and make recommendations as to what 'needs' to be done, what 'might' be done and those items that are just 'fine' the way they are.. Then it's up to the customer as to what to proceed on.

I always cut a new face on the receiver when rebarreling to ensure the barrel goes on straight! Nearly always the bolt lugs need some lapping so as to provide full and even contact. Once in a while the receiver lugs need to be recut - but that's rare and can cause other issues to crop up. IIRC I've only had to do that twice in 20 years.. I've had the recoil lugs on the bolt so off (not many M70s but many more Rem 700s) that they need to be recut to match the receiver.. The NH models do benefit from a proper trigger job.

Anything other than those items above and they're more for either the bench-rest crowd or as a money-making tool for other 'smiths... (IMHO, naturally smile ) Because 90% of the accuracy of any rifle is the barrel - period..


Lee: I know you don't particularly like 'em, but do you work on BACO's?


I hafta hold my nose - but yeah.. laugh laugh laugh


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gotta 280 think i'll send your way

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Model 70's are slightly different than 700's but the same rules apply to most bolt actions as far as truing goes. One establishes a centerline and makes everything concentric or perpendicular to that. I have, for the last twenty five years or so, done a variation on the "Borden Bumps" in which I dovetail inserts into the bolt body and machine those to be a close fit in the receiver bridge. This for target rifles only, mind you. Like Remington 700's, Model 70 bolts tend to deflect upwards when cocked due to the angle on the sear and cocking piece (not so on the BACO Model 70's with the MOA trigger) and give a false reading on lug contact. If I wanted to have any work done for me, I'd be pretty happy with any of the 'smiths mentioned so far. GD

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What is an approximate cost for a model 70 rebarrel, and a recommended sporter barrel?

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400 bucks for a good barrel and 400 bucks to get it put on. Give or take a few bucks either way.


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I just used LRI for my M70. Came out nice.


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Does anyone know if a barrel measuring 1.077 in at the shank would work for a Model 70 rebarrel?

I bought it secondhand for a Weatherby MkV but if I can use it for a Model 70 instead I will probably just sell the Weatherby.

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Originally Posted by Ramsdude47
Does anyone know if a barrel measuring 1.077 in at the shank would work for a Model 70 rebarrel?

I bought it secondhand for a Weatherby MkV but if I can use it for a Model 70 instead I will probably just sell the Weatherby.
You may want to be a little more precise with your question, 1.077" is tenon length or major thread dia? Best to measure both and compare with your takeoff barrel...making sure there is enough meat everywhere.


Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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It’s a blank. The shank diameter is 1.077 inches

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I think you might need more shoulder than that but maybe someone will make it work. Major diameter of factory barrel threads is about 0.995 on the New Haven classics. I think some of the newer actions have a larger diameter thread than that.

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Oh boy, let's make sure we are talking the same language here, pardon my confusion. The tenon is not cut to major thread dia yet. What model 70 do you have? Post, Pre, NH, BACO etc? You need post and pre about 1.140 chamber dia. to ensure an adequate shoulder. I have never done a NH or BACO and own none to measure. If I'm right, I don't think you want to use your blank, unless I missed something. A .038 shoulder doesn't sound like enough to me.


Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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Given that little for a shoulder, I would be inclined to make a nut. GD

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