I am looking for a PID temp controller that someone who can barely plug a light into a socket can install in my casting pot . I can find some for sale on Amazon but installation looks daunting. Can any casters shed any light on my problem?
I am looking for a way to better control the temp on my Lyman lead pot. I am trying to reduce my bullet weight variation due to lead temp fluctuations.
Maybe I'm just too old school but casting technique and maintaining a consistent mold temp has a lot to do with that, maybe mostly everything to do with it. I weigh and cull, culls back in the pot. When you get a mold figured out your culls are few.
I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children may live in peace. ~~ Thomas Paine
Yeah old school you are FA. All a pid controller is a finer thermostat to keep your melt at a stabler level temp wise. I plug my pot into the controller, put the thermostat in the pot and set the pid temp setting . Naturally a good uniform casting technique with the dipper and watch your cast to cast uniformity increase. Mb
" Cheapest velocity in the world comes from a long barrel and I sure do like them. MB "
MagnumBob, would you please describe your setup? From what I have read I have to rewire stuff to hook the pid to my pot someplace near the pot thermostat? Help needed, please.
Yeah old school you are FA. All a pid controller is a finer thermostat to keep your melt at a stabler level temp wise. I plug my pot into the controller, put the thermostat in the pot and set the pid temp setting . Naturally a good uniform casting technique with the dipper and watch your cast to cast uniformity increase. Mb
Does it regulate temp as metal is removed from the pot?
I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children may live in peace. ~~ Thomas Paine
Continuously FA from full to refill time, just make sure your thermocouple is in the melt. Add ingots and watch the display. In my Lee mag dipper pot when I'm going good and consistant my 509 gr pp bullets stay within a 1/2 grain up or down from average weight..mb
" Cheapest velocity in the world comes from a long barrel and I sure do like them. MB "
Continuously FA from full to refill time, just make sure your thermocouple is in the melt. Add ingots and watch the display. In my Lee mag dipper pot when I'm going good and consistant my 509 gr pp bullets stay within a 1/2 grain up or down from average weight..mb
Well damn.
Thanks a hell of a lot fellers, y'all just spent more of my hard earned money.
Guess I want to know what your set up is too MB.
I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children may live in peace. ~~ Thomas Paine
A buddy of mine in Nevada got it for me was about $250 doesn't have an address only a paper label that says JConn Inv. PID temperature controller. I'll ask him if he knows more as he has one too...mb
" Cheapest velocity in the world comes from a long barrel and I sure do like them. MB "
I have reviewed the cast bullet site and looked for Hatch. Can’t find anything current or relevant about installation of a PID. I see the pids for sale cheap on Amazon but how do I install one on an existing lead pot?
When I got my PID from HATCH, the thermocoupling has a threaded section. I simply installed a piece of 1/4" allthread in the base then a piece of aluminum which extended over the pot. The sensor went down in the pot about 1/2" away from the pot side, worked fine.
Thanks everyone! It appears that I just have to plug my Lyman pot into the PID controller and plug the PID controller into 120 volt outlet. Then put the thermocouple from the controller into the lead. What setting do I use for my pot? All the way up(hot) , mid-range or low?
Thanks everyone! It appears that I just have to plug my Lyman pot into the PID controller and plug the PID controller into 120 volt outlet. Then put the thermocouple from the controller into the lead.
I definitely want to hear feedback on how this set up works out.
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What setting do I use for my pot? All the way up(hot) , mid-range or low?
Wouldn't that be determined by experimenting with cast size and weight and concluding an optimum pot temp to yield the best results? Just like melting/pouring without the PID?
I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children may live in peace. ~~ Thomas Paine
Thanks everyone! It appears that I just have to plug my Lyman pot into the PID controller and plug the PID controller into 120 volt outlet. Then put the thermocouple from the controller into the lead. What setting do I use for my pot? All the way up(hot) , mid-range or low?
You can gut the temp control on the LEE if you want, otherwise just turn it all the way up, then use the PID to cycle the heat. They work good.
Thanks everyone! It appears that I just have to plug my Lyman pot into the PID controller and plug the PID controller into 120 volt outlet. Then put the thermocouple from the controller into the lead. What setting do I use for my pot? All the way up(hot) , mid-range or low?
You can gut the temp control on the LEE if you want, otherwise just turn it all the way up, then use the PID to cycle the heat. They work good.
So to understand this PID thing. The pot is plugged into the PID, and the PID is plugged into 110v power source. The thermocouple tells the PID what temp the melt is at any given point in time. The PID maintains the consistent pot temp by interrupting incoming voltage when it goes above or is maintaining a pre-set temp; and feeding voltage when the pot cools below that temp.
Little magic leprechaun in there throwing a switch on and off to keep a consistent temperature. Right?
I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children may live in peace. ~~ Thomas Paine
Thanks everyone! It appears that I just have to plug my Lyman pot into the PID controller and plug the PID controller into 120 volt outlet. Then put the thermocouple from the controller into the lead. What setting do I use for my pot? All the way up(hot) , mid-range or low?
You can gut the temp control on the LEE if you want, otherwise just turn it all the way up, then use the PID to cycle the heat. They work good.
So to understand this PID thing. The pot is plugged into the PID, and the PID is plugged into 110v power source. The thermocouple tells the PID what temp the melt is at any given point in time. The PID maintains the consistent pot temp by interrupting incoming voltage when it goes above or is maintaining a pre-set temp; and feeding voltage when the pot cools below that temp.
Little magic leprechaun in there throwing a switch on and off to keep a consistent temperature. Right?
That's it in a nutshell.
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz "Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
Been looking through the PAGES of PID controllers on Amazon and, well, it's all Greek to me. I was looking for the plug and play easy button and I guess I'm not seeing it. My imagination suggests a controller box with 110v in and out and a thermocouple to stick down in the pot. Am I going to have to get an electrical degree before I do this?
I'm not the average dumbass and I can figure things out if I need to, but about 35 years ago I did hand the test book back to the IBEW test monitor and apologized for wasting his time. Didn't even look at page two of the test.
I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children may live in peace. ~~ Thomas Paine
I’m in the same boat as Feral American. I can do some basic wiring but I was hoping for something like he described. Put the thermocouple into the lead, plug the PID into 120 outlet and the lead pot into the PID. Doesn’t seem to be available ( at least at prices I am searching)
I'm a tinkerer with most stuff and love building my own gear, but like I need another project right now to add to the couple dozen others I have in play.
My goal here is to upgrade my casting game to supply a couple project Marlin lever guns (45/70 and 35Rem, and maybe one in 375Win), my muzzleloader longrifles, and some 45LC pistols we have kicking around here.
I'm an old school bullet caster. Lead pot, ladle, and running 2 or 3 molds at the same time. I cast a pile of bullets, let them cool, then cull by weight and appearance.
I have a new plan to set up a casting station and cull as I cast. When I get it rolling I'll make a post about it. I want to cast two alloys at a time, pure lead and 50/50 WW/Pb. I want to take a day and cast enough good bullets and balls to last months, maybe enough to last a year at a time. With the 50/50 alloy I want to be as precise as I can be.
This PID thing caught my attention and I've realized good temp control has to be part of the precise casting part of things. In my research I've ran across the RCBS Easy Melt, which LOOKS like it already has PID temp control built in. The reviews indicate it is very precise at controlling temperature.
Part of my plan is to buy another pot anyway, for the 50/50 bullets, and one with a larger capacity than the Lee pot I'm currently using. That Lee 10lb pot will get relegated to the pure lead stuff once I get my station set up. The Easy Melt supposedly has a 25 lb capacity which is PLENTY big enough for the 50/50.
Weighing cost vs return vs effort I'm thinking (unless somebody can talk me out of it) buying the Easy Melt and killing two birds with one stone. Just a plain pot would cost me near $100 for something big enough, plus the $ for a PID set up, would put me at or near the cost of the Easy Melt. Add in the fiddledicking to get the PID working and the math is easy for me to figure out what I need to do.
I'm gonna buy an Easy Melt and be done with it.
I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children may live in peace. ~~ Thomas Paine
HATCH over at Castboolits. Have had mine for a few years, no issues. Still have the makings to build one myself accumulated. After i found his setup for $125-$150 have not bothered. I’ll look for link. Hasn’t been that long ago he posted having some ready to go.
I got in touch with Hatch and have plans for a new PID in time for Spring casting. Thanks for the contact info.
Could you "spec" out what you're acquiring from Hatch?
Plug and play? Temp probe (thermocouple)? Cost?
I think he’s pretty clear somewhere in his posts what is offered.
Mine was “plug and play”, came with temp probe, and as I remember cost $125.
Originally Posted by anothergun
what's wrong with a analogue thermometer ? Temperature range isn't that critical and many guys don't have this digital unit cast decent bullets.
Cant imagine anything wrong with analog temp. Use one often. For me a PID provides precision and consistency. My first LEE pot got away from me a few times. Current RCBS pot not as often. PID levels things out nicely.
I’ve used it for the PC oven too with good success.
I just ran an oven at 440 degrees with a WW cast from 9 to 15 BH in 15 minutes, so I don't have to add alloys to bring it up.
My thermometer has low end and high end scales.... Lyman recommends the low end for ladle casting. However, I was able to stabilize my Lyman Big Dipper well, and it cycles on and off maintaining temperature consistently.
I got in touch with Hatch and have plans for a new PID in time for Spring casting. Thanks for the contact info.
Could you "spec" out what you're acquiring from Hatch?
Plug and play? Temp probe (thermocouple)? Cost?
I think he’s pretty clear somewhere in his posts what is offered.
Mine was “plug and play”, came with temp probe, and as I remember cost $125.
Haven't dug in deep enough yet over there to find much of that, but you answered my questions. Thank you.
Your welcome. Hope your outcome is satisfactory. I’ve been pleased. Technology applied properly to our applications can certainly be helpful. Those who have years of experience and knowledge may not benefit. What gets those of us lacking either to success is a plus. Again, I’m very satisfied with the performance experienced using a PID. Good luck!