Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Franklin stuck case remover

Bought one to try, already have an rcbs one.
Anyone else try one?
Supposed to work on 17 to 338 lapua.

Looks like it sucks. Good luck.

That was extremely painful to watch. Guess he never heard of Kroil and cutting oil.

I have to wonder if those who think it doesn't work aren't reading instructions. Or something.

The second video was far better than the first! Seems to me the new remover works great! I would suggest a three minute of less video on how not to stick a case! I've got the RCBS remover and got it because I stuck a case years ago, Get a couple stuck then learn to lube the case and the problem goes away! Easy way to learn to lube the case, get a couple stuck and throw away the die with the case and go buy new dies! You'll either learn to lube or give up reloading!

Bingo. 👍👍

Seen way more cases stuck (other reloaders, I’ve been lucky so far) using spray lube. I use Imperial sizing lube and it’s the very best.

I tend to agree--but Forster recently introduced their High Pressure Case Sizing Lubricant, and sent me a sample. Tested it quite a bit and so far it has worked as well as Imperial.

The Franklin stuck case remover looks like a good deal too!

Bought some Creedmore Sports sizing wax in a 2 oz tin couple years back looks just like Imperial in the 2 oz tin. Works the same but has a screw on lid.

After watching Brownell's video I have come to the conclusion that You Tube Johnny is a moron.

That's not exactly uncommon among YouTubers....

They are more common than not.

The couple of times I’ve had stuck cases to deal with I’ve drilled and tapped the case and used a bushing and washer set up to very easily pull the case out with the mechanical advantage afforded by a machine screw thread.

cra1948
That works for me; I usually use a Hornady tool now, But in all instances, I soak the case in Kroil for 1/2 hour before I do anything-except cuss

I just drill and use a screw to jack the case out. I don't get many and usually it's because I didn't get enough lube on a case that was shot out of an AR.

Imperial sizing wax is the answer, a little on the exterior and a Q-tip wipe inside the neck and stuck cases will be a thing of the past. The drill & tap style remover works every time, lube the tap and use a tap wrench and the case will come right out.

☝️☝️☝️

the little device might work awesome might work better than the thread tap and such I have no idea. about 37 to 8 years of reloading
and God knows how many cases I have lubed and sized. some years more some years less but it guarantee you as well over 100,000 maybe 200,000 have no real idea but I have never stuck a case..
that may be my jinx and I do it tomorrow or tonight. but damn if it's going in the up stroke that stiff quit pushing up pull it out and read lube stuff or something figure out the problem..

Have been handloading 58 years now, and some years (especially in the past 25) have loaded at least 10,000 rifle rounds.

Have stuck 4, if my memory is correct, and the last one was deliberately while testing a supposedly magical tool that would take 'em right out. I deliberately stuck a case by lubing one with Imperial, then resizing unlubed case until one stuck. Might have taken 4-5 cases, and the magic tool would not pull it out, even though the press was a Redding Big Boss II--which has more leverage than any other press I've used.

Hadn't stuck a case in so many years I couldn't find my "unsticking" kit--which I'd probably acquired at least 2-3 houses ago. So went down to the local hardware store and spent something like $2.50 buying the stuff necessary to pull it out--basically a thread/tap deal. Still have that "kit" hanging inside a plastic bag above my primary press, but so far haven't needed it again.....

But will comment again that the Franklin tool looks like a quicker and easier way for those unfortunate to have it happen.

I’ve had exactly one case stuck in 45 years of reloading. The head of the case broke off by the force exerted by the Redding UltraMag - pulled the head right off the case when I tried to “unstick it”. Had to send the die into Redding to have it removed. They polished it and sent it back with a note “don’t use Hornady One-Shot” lube anymore. How they knew that’s what I used is beyond me. Must be a recurring thing.

Yeah, one of my very few instances of a stuck case was with Hornady One-Shot--but still use it for smaller cases like the .17 and .22 Hornets, because it's so much quicker to apply to a bunch of cases. But Hornet cases are not only small, but the .22 Hornet is also pretty tapered, which helps prevent sticking. (Though I also usually only neck-size both rounds, until the cases are fired enough to start extracting a little harder from the rifles.)

I've actually done thousands and I mean thousands of cases with Hornady one shot but you zero issues. but I also apply liberally and do like instructions say but.

if I'm doing larger size Magnum cases or something even like 45 70 here that there's lots of friction area or especially in doing cases on a reforming die. I just don't ask for issues.

1/4x20 tap, bolt, socket get them out. I’ve stuck two, went to Imperial sizing wax, no more stuck cases.

Yeah, haven't stuck one yet with Imperial--except the one I deliberately stuck, as described earlier.

I guess I've stuck four or five in my lifetime. The way I figure it, that new FA tool is about as handy as it gets. I think I'll get one and set it on the shelf in plain sight, taking up room...and that way, I won't ever need it.

Hornady one shot works great. If you read and follow the directions printed on the can.

Bless you. Imperial sizing wax forever. I've tried everything from 50 weight motor oil to STP, and none of it works as well.

I've had good luck with Hornady Unique, in the tub. I use and like Imperial as well, but sometimes the Hornady lube in the tub is more convenient because I can smear it on my hands and lube a couple hundred cases in about two minutes and be done with that step. If I'm working with just a dozen or twenty cases I'll lube them one at a time with Imperial.

Being made out of beef tallow, Hornady Unique also works as a boot waterproofing, leather softner and as you said hand lotion. 😀

I have gotten about 20 cases stuck in various brands of dies. I usually drill the bottom of the case and use an "Easy Out". Sometimes I damage the decapping rod and have to get another. This tool looks like it will save me a lot of time and no more damaged decapping rods.
I size cases in my truck with a Lee Hand Press. I sit at places (sometime for hours), waiting in line to get loaded. Sizing cases at least makes my time productive. I use Hornady One Shot a lot (all the time except when forming cases). I spray outside the truck, so I figure wind may have something to due with a case missing a blast of lube. On the larger cases I am slowly switching to Hornady Unique. It seems to be working well, but cleaning my hands in the truck can be problematic. I do carry a tub of Clorox wipes, but they can dry my skin out kinda quick. I'm gonna try some Imperial sizing wax, I've only been told about it for 45 years, so I guess it is not a fad.

Imperial was one of the best pieces of useful
reloading advice I got since the initial mentor
showed me the process years ago.
And I've been given a big dump truck full of
BS reloading advice to sort through over the
years as well.
Imperial is good stuff. One little tin container
will last a long time when properly applied
Good Luck

Very true. It keeps my hands lovely.

I live in a rural area and my only source for reloading supplies are mail order or do without until I make a trip to the city. I ran out of case lube one time and a friend recommended using Anhydrous Lanolin for case lube, which is what the Hornady Unique appears to be - both work quite well. But IMO there is nothing better than Imperial case lube.

drover

Wrong taint no lanolin in it.




We all know what Tallow is.
#2 is baby oil
#3 is food grade coloration and sometimes used for flavoring. Makes the stuff white.
#4 is self explanatory

Is lanolin considered hazardous?

It’s expensive, and it has pesticides in it.

Crude lanolin constitutes about 5–25% of the weight of freshly shorn wool. The wool from one Merino sheep will produce about 250–300 ml of recoverable wool grease. Lanolin is extracted by washing the wool in hot water with a special wool scouring detergent to remove dirt, wool grease (crude lanolin), suint (sweat salts), and anything else stuck to the wool. The wool grease is continuously removed during this washing process by centrifuge separators, which concentrate it into a waxlike substance melting at approximately 38 °C (100 °F).[7]


In addition to general purity requirements, lanolin must meet official requirements for the permissible levels of pesticide residues. The Fifth Supplement of the United States Pharmacopoeia XXII published in 1992 was the first to specify limits for 34 named pesticides. A total limit of 40 ppm (i.e. 40 mg/kg) total pesticides was stipulated for lanolin of general use, with no individual limit greater than 10 ppm.[2]

Update there isnt any Lanolin in one shot spray or tub. Trade secret

I've made some of my own case lube before using 99.9% Isopropyl alcohol and liquid lanolin. I can't remember the ratio for sure but it seems like it was either one in five or one in 10. it does a great job for lube but it is harder to clean off than most other stuff I use..

When I see the header "Hazardous components" the SDS is only listing components considered hazardous. Not necessarily an exhaustive list of all ingredients.

#2 isn't mink oil?

I got a case stuck in my die yesterday . I got it out today , however , I beat up the pin and I heated up the die hoping it would help get it out . So today I drive down to Lee Precision about 18 miles away and they gave me a new one for $12. I figure the heat might have ruined it and didnt want to take a chance.. They took the old one. I also got me some case lube too. They are very good there. SO good in fact I would not mind working there but don't know anything except being a carpenter.