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There is a drop in performance in using a larger caliber can. However, Thunderbeast dropped their Ultra's in .223 because it was only a decibel or two difference between the .223 Ultra & the 6.5MM Ultra.

Obvious advantage to having a larger caliber can is that you, especially for your first suppressor, can use it on a variety of rifles. That's big when you consider the wait time to get your next suppressor.

As it's already been pointed out, it's a long term investment, buy the best that you can afford. I too recommend titanium for the weight savings... Not due to carrying it, but the balance of a boat anchor at the end of your rifle is also an issue. However, if mag dumps are your thing, it is recommended that you avoid titanium.

Might as well get a rimfire suppressor while your at it. Recommend the Dead Air Mask, which is rated up to 5.7X28.


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My suggestion of a steel can over a 5-6oz lighter Ti version was due to the mention of the OP’s desire for an overbuilt/sturdy can for regular 10.3” AR duty. Otherwise, I’d also go Ti these days.


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Originally Posted by jerrywoodswalker
There is a drop in performance in using a larger caliber can. However, Thunderbeast dropped their Ultra's in .223 because it was only a decibel or two difference between the .223 Ultra & the 6.5MM Ultra.

Obvious advantage to having a larger caliber can is that you, especially for your first suppressor, can use it on a variety of rifles. That's big when you consider the wait time to get your next suppressor.

As it's already been pointed out, it's a long term investment, buy the best that you can afford. I too recommend titanium for the weight savings... Not due to carrying it, but the balance of a boat anchor at the end of your rifle is also an issue. However, if mag dumps are your thing, it is recommended that you avoid titanium.

Might as well get a rimfire suppressor while your at it. Recommend the Dead Air Mask, which is rated up to 5.7X28.


Jerry

The can I linked above (and have) has different endcaps for different calibers, which does "help" a little, but I can't tell leaving the .30 cal endcap on shooting 5.56

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Id get a Yankee hill resonator 2. Tough, priced right, decent tone etc. You can beat it around and not worry about ( like the glock of cans). Super light cans are nice on some rigs, but id wait down the road to get some later. You'll defiantly be getting a lot more cans down the road.
I like a gemtech trek for a good beater can on a AR. Same story as yankee hills, good all around robust cans.

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My first was a YHM resonator and it’s been superb on 5.56, 6.5, 7/08, 22-250. Speaking of the loss of effectiveness of 7.62 can on a .224 caliber, you can shoot a .224 through a 7.62 can EASILY without ear protection. It’s a minute difference.


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Originally Posted by JPro
My suggestion of a steel can over a 5-6oz lighter Ti version was due to the mention of the OP’s desire for an overbuilt/sturdy can for regular 10.3” AR duty. Otherwise, I’d also go Ti these days.
Thats a thought. But Ti is an awful strong material IIRC. also IIRC its corrosion resistant as is.


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Another vote for the sandman s

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I think you’ll get more flash if that matters to you but I have a buddy that has some big giant 30 cal can and it’s not too bad noise wise. Anything supersonic is gonna have a crack but you know this I’m sure.

I bought a flow through 5.56 can and I’m pleased with it but one can I’m very curious about is the Witt Machine Canooter valve. It’s priced at $260 so even with the stamp it’s affordable. Small and lightweight but is said to have a good tone. Id like to try one just to see.
https://wittmachine.net/product/canooter-valve/

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Originally Posted by TWR
I think you’ll get more flash if that matters to you but I have a buddy that has some big giant 30 cal can and it’s not too bad noise wise. Anything supersonic is gonna have a crack but you know this I’m sure.

I bought a flow through 5.56 can and I’m pleased with it but one can I’m very curious about is the Witt Machine Canooter valve. It’s priced at $260 so even with the stamp it’s affordable. Small and lightweight but is said to have a good tone. Id like to try one just to see.
https://wittmachine.net/product/canooter-valve/
A good friend is a dealer. Said they played with canooter and its just not worth it really. Still had 3/4 on the shelf and I almost bought one last year just to play. But when you realize the stamp is as much as the can vs what he suggested not to do I passed on it.

Maybe this spring if he still has one I may put it in the bag...


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Like others have said: I’ll never buy another 223-specific can. It’s a waste. Actually, the larger bore cans are generally MORE effective on my 223/5.56 stuff than my 223 can. Why/How? They’re BIGGER, and made to handle more gas volume. They aren’t minimized to 223/5.56 proportions, even though they have similar weights.

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Originally Posted by Teal
All,

Starting the suppressor process and looking at options. Anyone give feedback on suppressors that are, essentially, multi-caliber and thus larger than intended?

By that I mean - a 30 cal suppressor on an AR, 5.56 - is there a drop in performance compared to a specific 556 suppressor? If so - how much? I was really hoping for a SureFire SOCOM556-RC2 but, out of stock and who knows when they'll get more. So as I looked at alternatives, I noticed more stock on larger, multi caliber or 30 caliber suppressors. All give the cartridge range of 556-300wm (for example)

My original thought was - 556 on the AR, find something else for deer/coyote bolt rifles that more closely match their caliber but now I'm not sure.

What say you?

Suppressing an AR is different than a bolt gun because there are 2 sources of noise.

Shooters ear noise levels go up when large high back pressure cans are used on the AR.

30 cal bores can help reduce the back pressure in conventional cans but those types of cans will always drive lots of gas back in the action and make the port pop the loudest noice at the shooters ear.

The DA Sandman is pretty old tech, heavy, and high back pressure while still being pretty loud.

DA has also had some pretty epic customer complaints with their new Sierra 5.

DA Sierra 5 failures and bad CS

Surefire quit making the RC-2 and replaced it with the RC-3.

Less back pressure but still heavy and expensive for what it offers.

The new generation of 5.56mm cans are the way to go if you can afford more than one can but a lighter weight .30 cal can will work on the AR. It will run dirtier and have more port pop.


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Originally Posted by JohnBurns
Originally Posted by Teal
All,

Starting the suppressor process and looking at options. Anyone give feedback on suppressors that are, essentially, multi-caliber and thus larger than intended?

By that I mean - a 30 cal suppressor on an AR, 5.56 - is there a drop in performance compared to a specific 556 suppressor? If so - how much? I was really hoping for a SureFire SOCOM556-RC2 but, out of stock and who knows when they'll get more. So as I looked at alternatives, I noticed more stock on larger, multi caliber or 30 caliber suppressors. All give the cartridge range of 556-300wm (for example)

My original thought was - 556 on the AR, find something else for deer/coyote bolt rifles that more closely match their caliber but now I'm not sure.

What say you?

Suppressing an AR is different than a bolt gun because there are 2 sources of noise.

Shooters ear noise levels go up when large high back pressure cans are used on the AR.

30 cal bores can help reduce the back pressure in conventional cans but those types of cans will always drive lots of gas back in the action and make the port pop the loudest noice at the shooters ear.

The DA Sandman is pretty old tech, heavy, and high back pressure while still being pretty loud.

DA has also had some pretty epic customer complaints with their new Sierra 5.

DA Sierra 5 failures and bad CS

Surefire quit making the RC-2 and replaced it with the RC-3.

Less back pressure but still heavy and expensive for what it offers.

The new generation of 5.56mm cans are the way to go if you can afford more than one can but a lighter weight .30 cal can will work on the AR. It will run dirtier and have more port pop.

I was aware of the RC3 being out and the differences, was unaware they discontinued the RC2 as it's still listed on SureFire's site as an available model. Here

Sucks because, for me, I don't know if the "improvements" of the RC3 are worth the jump in price over the RC2.

For me, on the AR - it's less about being uber quiet, more about simply changing the signature.


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I have been debating this issue. Want to get a suppressor primarily for a new 6.5 CM that is my first threaded rifle. But I also have a couple of AR that are threaded and I have considered getting my bolt action .350 Legend threaded. Making the jump up to something that works from .22 all the way to .35 seems to really limit the choices.

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Originally Posted by Teal
I was aware of the RC3 being out and the differences, was unaware they discontinued the RC2 as it's still listed on SureFire's site as an available model. Here

Sucks because, for me, I don't know if the "improvements" of the RC3 are worth the jump in price over the RC2.

For me, on the AR - it's less about being uber quiet, more about simply changing the signature.

Obviously we all know what I would recommend.

That said, you should check out Griffen Armament.You can basically get 2 suppressors for the price of the RC-3 and have a better attachment system.

The Explorer line is pretty light weight. Durability really means how hot you can get the suppressor before failure. Unless you're shooting full auto mag dumps you will enjoy the suppressor more if it's lighter in weight.

In a test I dumped 90 rounds (3 mags) as fast as I could pull the triger (12.5 barrel) and the suppressor temp reached 1150 degs.


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Why is the attachment better? I don't know enough to know what's good/bad between them?


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We are old. We still think threads are a good attachement system.


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I like a flash hider and the HuxWrx goes on left handed. It’s not going to shoot loose.

Shooting loose and getting a baffle strike would suck. And yes, I have seen a few shoot loose but no baffle strike. My buddy’s big 30 cal can has replaceable end caps for different calibers. Sounds good but his came loose and was MIA one day.

Some things to consider.

Jeff thanks for the word on Witt Machine. I’ve yet to see one just watched reviews. Think I’ll pass.

Burns has changed his attitude for the better, I might look at his stuff when I decide I need another can.

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Originally Posted by Teal
Why is the attachment better? I don't know enough to know what's good/bad between them?

Surefire is famous for the attachment carbon locking on the muzzle device.

Shooting the can off to remove it is litterally a thing.

Surefire muzzle devices are on the pricey end of the spectrum.

Originally Posted by rost495
We are old. We still think threads are a good attachement system.

I do everything direct thread but if a guy is wanting to swap alot then an attachment system is the way to go. Deciding which eco system you want for attaching is another decision to make before purchase. I suppress everything but I get a good deal on suppressors.

One thing to remember is all suppressors are direct thread and some suppresssors have a second attachment system but the muzzle device is still attached to the barrel with direct thread.

When attaching either the suppressor or the muzzle device attachement you need to use 25- 40 inch pounds of torque. Most secondary attachement systems allow you to attach just the suppressor body hand tight.


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We keep nickel anti seize on the threads. Threads are cut specifically for a suppressor. IE we test fit as we cut.

We have only ever hand tightened and I check it to be tight by loosen and resnug by hand fairly often.

That said the most I think we have ever shot without checking it would be less than 10 rounds. I"m somewhat anal about that. Actually I doubt I've shot more than the 5 shots at pigs once without checking it.


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Consider if you really need a “duty” can on an AR. My first can was a sandman k - it’s super loud but I geeked out on the “shooters ear” figures and I figured it wasn’t going to be much louder for the shooter than anything else.

It was cheap, but it’s loud and heavy. Not my favorite, I’d rather have another lightweight titanium can.

Bought a couple TBAC UL7’s and with an adjustable gas block on an AR they are WAY quieter for the shooter even being “high backpressure”. Also way lighter. I don’t have a full auto lower, I don’t figure the titanium can is going to wear out on my AR.

Doing it again I wouldn’t buy a heavy “duty” can, I’d just run a 30cal titanium can on all my center fires, including ARs. My two cents.


Sean
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