Home Forums Hunting & Shooting AR and Tactical Rifles Suppressor Question - Multi-Cal

All,

Starting the suppressor process and looking at options. Anyone give feedback on suppressors that are, essentially, multi-caliber and thus larger than intended?

By that I mean - a 30 cal suppressor on an AR, 5.56 - is there a drop in performance compared to a specific 556 suppressor? If so - how much? I was really hoping for a SureFire SOCOM556-RC2 but, out of stock and who knows when they'll get more. So as I looked at alternatives, I noticed more stock on larger, multi caliber or 30 caliber suppressors. All give the cartridge range of 556-300wm (for example)

My original thought was - 556 on the AR, find something else for deer/coyote bolt rifles that more closely match their caliber but now I'm not sure.

What say you?

I've never compared. I have asked. Supposedly not much gained by caliber dedicated. So we keep buying 30 cal cans. and use em on 16 inch 5.56. Works well enough. Works on 6mm WOA. Works on 6.5 ppc. Works on 300 blackout. 308etc...

I suppose it all depends on how quiet you want. There is loss and has to be loss on over size.

Run our 30 mainly on a 6.5 creed moor. When the conditions are favorable its almost never heard by anyone as close as 600 yards from us. On bad conditions its still heard a mile away as a minor thump.

Just get about three at the same time.

I use a 30 cal end cap on the SilencerCo Hybrid-46 on a 223, and not sure that I would be able to notice the difference if I had a 223 cap.

I have been really impressed with the YHM R9. It is designed for a 9mm pistol, but is rated up to 30 cal rifles. I have been using it on a 223, 6.8 SPC and Ruger SFAR 308, and to me, it reduces just as much noise as the Hybrid at almost half the size and cost. The SilencerCo direct thread, ASR mount, and Neilsen device are all compatible with the R9 so I can swap parts and move them around as needed. I also have a 22 suppressor, so between the three, I think I am covered at the moment. Don't really feel the need for a dedicated 223/5.56 suppressor. If I get another one, it will be another R9, so I am not swapping parts around so much.

I only own one and it’s a 30 cal. It lives the vast majority of the time on a 223 AR. This evening right at too dark I shot two pigs out of a group of about 30. The survivors ran about 100 yards and went back to feeding. I could see them in my binos but not well enough through the scope to shoot. I can’t see a dedicated 22 cal can being enough better to be worth giving up the versatility. 🤷🏼‍♂️

I have the SilencerCo Harvester 300.

I use it on 300BLK, 223, 22LR, It works well on ALL, IMHO.

Rated up to 300 Win Mag.

Ideally you match the suppressor for the use. With cost and wait times, that's not always possible. The best multi cal suppressors come with changeable end caps that allow you to better tailor the suppression. Size and weight become an issue. You don't really want to hang a full auto rated 30cal can off a 22lr, even though you can.
If going for a multi cal, try to get the lightest and smallest that meets your suppression needs. Yes, it will work fine on the smaller calibers, but will probably be bigger in weight and size than you need.

I'm currently waiting on a Nomad Ti that will serve as a multi cal can from .221 to 308. It's light enough that I'm not worried about too much weight. Not full auto rated, but I don't do mag dumps so not a problem.

On a bolt gun you gain some quietness by running a front cap/exit hole close to your bullet size, but on an AR there is so much noise from the ejection port it doesn't really matter.

I'd get something 30 cal, 7" or less that is entirely or mostly titanium. Ounces matter when they are out on the end of your barrel. This isn't something you can re-sell easily so get the best thing you can afford because practically speaking you are stuck with it forever.

Hybrid 46.

I don’t notice a perceptible difference in a 5.56 can on a 5.56 or a 7.62 can on 5.56. I wouldn’t buy a can under .30Cal for that reason alone, portability! I’m waiting on my SilencerCo Hybrid 46 which is what I’ll use on my bigger hunting rifles like .338 win mag and 35 Whelen and maybe a 358 Norma mag with the ASR end cap. I expect the .338 and Whelen to kick like a 22mag….watching vapor trails and seeing impacts is a nice change on the bigger boomers.

Yep! My R9 is easily my favorite, of the cans I own, and it sees the most use. I've run it on 223, 6.5CM, 300BLK, 350L, and 9mm (pistol and SBR). I put the Kurz QD adapter on the R9, and I have YHM mini brakes on several of my rifles. Swapping it around is fast and easy.

I bought a second one back in September, for the same reason.

Thanks - on the 556 - I was looking more to change tone/hid signature etc. One's to be a 16 inch all around truck gun so to speak and the other a 10.3 inch bedside, shooting class type MK18 ish. Wanted something stupid strong/reliable with a lot life. Which led me to the SureFires and their reputation for robustness.

As someone said - you buy, you own for life so I want to get it right.

For an all-rounder 1st can it is hard to beat one of the various 6-7” steel, auto-rated cans in the 12-15oz range. $600-800 price tags. Sounds great on typical AR platforms too, with inherently less backpressure than a 5.56 version of the same can. There are starting to be some flow-through cans in this class as well, which might be worth a thought for a lot of autoloader use.

For what always seems like just a bit more I"d avoid the steel due to weight. Just works for me to pay a bit more and get lighter. Almost bought a couple of steel ones this past spring and when it got down to it, 200 bucks more just wasn't an issue on a 1000 buck purchase basically. My take anyway. OTOH when I don't have to carry it all on my back all day just drive to the stand like we do in TX and walk half a mile, steel would work. Its generally, according to my smith, heavier enough that the impact with and without the can changes. Something that doesn't happen IE under .5 moa, on Ti cans.

I don’t think you’ll see any drop in performance at all with a .30 cal can. If anything it will most likely be quieter and will have less back pressure than a typical 5.56 tactical can. Dedicated tactical cans are usually built for minimal size over sound reduction.

A typical .30 cal can should more than offset a larger diameter hole with more internal volume. The only tradeoff is it being bigger and maybe looking “less cool” than one designed to match up more closely to AR’s rail diameter.

Those are generalities but that’s been my experience.

To my ear my Rugged Obsidian 45 sounds quieter on a 9mm than what my Dear Air Odessa 9 can does due to added internal volume offsetting the larger exit hole.

I really like the Dead Air Nomad as an all around can. I use it on gas and bolt guns in .308/7.62, 6.5 CM, and .223/5.56. I’d absolutely recommend that can or one of its variants.

I started with a .30 cal suppressor a .22 LR suppressor and a .45 cal pistol can. With those three you’ll be covered for just about anything that you want to do. If you want to add a dedicated 5.56, 9mm, PCC cans ect. later they’re icing on the cake.

I've been looking at a Dead Air Sandman - S and then get the different caliber end caps since this post. It might be my huckleberry. Finger fornicated a Dead Air MASK 22 HD a little - seems very well built, can't imagine the Sandman wouldn't be.

A Sandman- S would be a great pick IMO.

I have a MASK 22 HD for my rimfire suppressor and really like it. I went back and fourth between the MASK and SilencerCo Sparrow.

The TRUTH about "multi-caliber" suppressors:

You're gonna love a can. You won't be able to get a rimfire version quick enough. Check out Rugged . Some of theirs are modular in length so it's like two cans in one from a length and weight view.

I have one of these that works great for 9mm pistol, short AR and 30 cal or 6.5 rifles.

Optimus

There is a drop in performance in using a larger caliber can. However, Thunderbeast dropped their Ultra's in .223 because it was only a decibel or two difference between the .223 Ultra & the 6.5MM Ultra.

Obvious advantage to having a larger caliber can is that you, especially for your first suppressor, can use it on a variety of rifles. That's big when you consider the wait time to get your next suppressor.

As it's already been pointed out, it's a long term investment, buy the best that you can afford. I too recommend titanium for the weight savings... Not due to carrying it, but the balance of a boat anchor at the end of your rifle is also an issue. However, if mag dumps are your thing, it is recommended that you avoid titanium.

Might as well get a rimfire suppressor while your at it. Recommend the Dead Air Mask, which is rated up to 5.7X28.


Jerry

My suggestion of a steel can over a 5-6oz lighter Ti version was due to the mention of the OP’s desire for an overbuilt/sturdy can for regular 10.3” AR duty. Otherwise, I’d also go Ti these days.

The can I linked above (and have) has different endcaps for different calibers, which does "help" a little, but I can't tell leaving the .30 cal endcap on shooting 5.56

Id get a Yankee hill resonator 2. Tough, priced right, decent tone etc. You can beat it around and not worry about ( like the glock of cans). Super light cans are nice on some rigs, but id wait down the road to get some later. You'll defiantly be getting a lot more cans down the road.
I like a gemtech trek for a good beater can on a AR. Same story as yankee hills, good all around robust cans.

My first was a YHM resonator and it’s been superb on 5.56, 6.5, 7/08, 22-250. Speaking of the loss of effectiveness of 7.62 can on a .224 caliber, you can shoot a .224 through a 7.62 can EASILY without ear protection. It’s a minute difference.

Thats a thought. But Ti is an awful strong material IIRC. also IIRC its corrosion resistant as is.

Another vote for the sandman s

I think you’ll get more flash if that matters to you but I have a buddy that has some big giant 30 cal can and it’s not too bad noise wise. Anything supersonic is gonna have a crack but you know this I’m sure.

I bought a flow through 5.56 can and I’m pleased with it but one can I’m very curious about is the Witt Machine Canooter valve. It’s priced at $260 so even with the stamp it’s affordable. Small and lightweight but is said to have a good tone. Id like to try one just to see.
https://wittmachine.net/product/canooter-valve/

A good friend is a dealer. Said they played with canooter and its just not worth it really. Still had 3/4 on the shelf and I almost bought one last year just to play. But when you realize the stamp is as much as the can vs what he suggested not to do I passed on it.

Maybe this spring if he still has one I may put it in the bag...

Like others have said: I’ll never buy another 223-specific can. It’s a waste. Actually, the larger bore cans are generally MORE effective on my 223/5.56 stuff than my 223 can. Why/How? They’re BIGGER, and made to handle more gas volume. They aren’t minimized to 223/5.56 proportions, even though they have similar weights.

Suppressing an AR is different than a bolt gun because there are 2 sources of noise.

Shooters ear noise levels go up when large high back pressure cans are used on the AR.

30 cal bores can help reduce the back pressure in conventional cans but those types of cans will always drive lots of gas back in the action and make the port pop the loudest noice at the shooters ear.

The DA Sandman is pretty old tech, heavy, and high back pressure while still being pretty loud.

DA has also had some pretty epic customer complaints with their new Sierra 5.

DA Sierra 5 failures and bad CS

Surefire quit making the RC-2 and replaced it with the RC-3.

Less back pressure but still heavy and expensive for what it offers.

The new generation of 5.56mm cans are the way to go if you can afford more than one can but a lighter weight .30 cal can will work on the AR. It will run dirtier and have more port pop.

I was aware of the RC3 being out and the differences, was unaware they discontinued the RC2 as it's still listed on SureFire's site as an available model. Here

Sucks because, for me, I don't know if the "improvements" of the RC3 are worth the jump in price over the RC2.

For me, on the AR - it's less about being uber quiet, more about simply changing the signature.

I have been debating this issue. Want to get a suppressor primarily for a new 6.5 CM that is my first threaded rifle. But I also have a couple of AR that are threaded and I have considered getting my bolt action .350 Legend threaded. Making the jump up to something that works from .22 all the way to .35 seems to really limit the choices.

Obviously we all know what I would recommend.

That said, you should check out Griffen Armament.You can basically get 2 suppressors for the price of the RC-3 and have a better attachment system.

The Explorer line is pretty light weight. Durability really means how hot you can get the suppressor before failure. Unless you're shooting full auto mag dumps you will enjoy the suppressor more if it's lighter in weight.

In a test I dumped 90 rounds (3 mags) as fast as I could pull the triger (12.5 barrel) and the suppressor temp reached 1150 degs.

Why is the attachment better? I don't know enough to know what's good/bad between them?

We are old. We still think threads are a good attachement system.

I like a flash hider and the HuxWrx goes on left handed. It’s not going to shoot loose.

Shooting loose and getting a baffle strike would suck. And yes, I have seen a few shoot loose but no baffle strike. My buddy’s big 30 cal can has replaceable end caps for different calibers. Sounds good but his came loose and was MIA one day.

Some things to consider.

Jeff thanks for the word on Witt Machine. I’ve yet to see one just watched reviews. Think I’ll pass.

Burns has changed his attitude for the better, I might look at his stuff when I decide I need another can.

Surefire is famous for the attachment carbon locking on the muzzle device.

Shooting the can off to remove it is litterally a thing.

Surefire muzzle devices are on the pricey end of the spectrum.


I do everything direct thread but if a guy is wanting to swap alot then an attachment system is the way to go. Deciding which eco system you want for attaching is another decision to make before purchase. I suppress everything but I get a good deal on suppressors.

One thing to remember is all suppressors are direct thread and some suppresssors have a second attachment system but the muzzle device is still attached to the barrel with direct thread.

When attaching either the suppressor or the muzzle device attachement you need to use 25- 40 inch pounds of torque. Most secondary attachement systems allow you to attach just the suppressor body hand tight.

We keep nickel anti seize on the threads. Threads are cut specifically for a suppressor. IE we test fit as we cut.

We have only ever hand tightened and I check it to be tight by loosen and resnug by hand fairly often.

That said the most I think we have ever shot without checking it would be less than 10 rounds. I"m somewhat anal about that. Actually I doubt I've shot more than the 5 shots at pigs once without checking it.

Consider if you really need a “duty” can on an AR. My first can was a sandman k - it’s super loud but I geeked out on the “shooters ear” figures and I figured it wasn’t going to be much louder for the shooter than anything else.

It was cheap, but it’s loud and heavy. Not my favorite, I’d rather have another lightweight titanium can.

Bought a couple TBAC UL7’s and with an adjustable gas block on an AR they are WAY quieter for the shooter even being “high backpressure”. Also way lighter. I don’t have a full auto lower, I don’t figure the titanium can is going to wear out on my AR.

Doing it again I wouldn’t buy a heavy “duty” can, I’d just run a 30cal titanium can on all my center fires, including ARs. My two cents.

For those of you that have used traditional cans and flow-through style cans, is there really that much difference when using an AR15 or AR10?

I do know that I seem to eat more gas with a stout ball-powder .223 load in my AR15 than I do with a factory .308 load in my AR10 when using the exact same can (and charging handle), but I mark that up to the AR10 having an adjustable gas block versus the fixed block of the AR15. I also note that I don't eat so much gas with the .223 when using my preferred H4895/77TMK load instead of my CFE223/65SGK load

I'm far from an expert on the matter but a friend of mine is wrong handed. He shoots suppressed a lot and he's always dealt with gas and debris in his face. His agency went to the HuxWrx Flow 556K on their 6933's and he is not bothered at all now. I shot his gun wrong handed and right handed just to see, my eyes didn't burn and nothing hit my face.

Video's online show the amount of gas coming out of the chamber dramatically reduced.

Thats good info. Thanks for sharing, I won't recall it when I need it but its good. At some point the wifes truck gun needs a foldable stock and go to SBR with a can on the end for a ballistic backpack. Then it will be as good as it gets. Hopefully I can recall this. On this one I'd go dedicated except probably 7.62 instead.

And now that I"ve seen the whole video, was taking your word, this poison stuff....

At least I know the wife and I should die soon from the 100,000s of thousands of AR rounds we shot in our lifetime.

The [bleep] they worry about. Whatever. OTOH any help along the way is probably a plus but to hear him talk we should be dead by now. LOL. Might be tomorrow you never know. As much fence as I repaired this afternoon trying to beat the cold front and high winds I feel like I might not make it lol

HuxWrx is now making my can in 7.62 and in Titanium. If I had anything bigger than a 22-250AI I’d probably buy one.

Yeah the poison stuff is a little far fetched but when your eyes water from shooting then something needs to be done.

And remember, unless you were shooting a can, pressure wasn’t being forced out the chamber.

High round count training evolutions using an overgassed MK-18 and a high back pressure Surefire are going to bring different levels of toxic gas than shooting outside/unsuppressed/longer barrel.

When your face has a layer of soot you know you breathed in some stuff you wish you did not breath in.

Reducing backpressure also mean less cleaning which is another source of icky chemicals entering the body.

It's probably smart to be wearing nitrile gloves when cleaning if you are a high volume shooter. I know Jerry M. now does when cleaning ARs.

I can say it's entirely possible to not get gas in the face when shooting suppressed ARs, even off the left shoulder.

I know it’s a half assed solution to a solvable problem, but have you siliconed your charging handle? When my can was first released after my stamp was approved I couldn’t wait to try it out and spun it onto my only threaded rifle, an 18” AR. I was instantly getting gas in the face out of the charging handle cut and went to Napa the next day for a can of black RTV. Sprayed the back of the receiver with Oneshot case lube as release agent and degreased the charging handle before running a bead of RTV on the handle and locking it home to let it dry. It will need to be redone periodically but it does work. Doesn’t solve to over gassed issue but at least keeps it out of your eyes.

I’m using a charge handle that’s supposed to minimize gas from the rear, but the RTV might still be worth a look.

Eyes could water depending without a can, until we learned to easily seal our charging handles. That cut out lots of it. Still as many rounds and people shooting and nothing being noted...on a dangerous level... its just some way to make more money.

We have done it since the late 80s or early 90s. Wind in your face and you got stuff hitting you and gas in your face, watered your eyes etc, even around the shooting glasses. Just made sense to keep that stuff away from your eyes. Never hurt that it might help your health RE breathing. But like masks and covid, it all depends on what you believe and if you think for yourself.

I've not seen you suggest your choices for cans. I've no issue buying whats better in the end, but I won't get rid of what I have. So suggestions of your cans welcome. If I missed it, apologies

I have had the Optimus for quite a few years now, it has held up well.
.22 rifle and pistol, .300 bulk, .308, .30 ‘06, 350 legend, 9 mm carbine and pistol.
I just leave the 9 mm end cap on all the time. If you can tell the difference in the sound when shooting .22 with the .22 cap on good for you.

I see the Omega 36M is rated for multi-calibers? Any thoughts on that?

Didn't need to snag an alternative - they got some RC2's in and I bought. Nice.

having trouble recalling the name but it was something made and I believe it was for 375 or up to a 375 and they tested this with sound equipment down to 22 caliber and it was as good or better than anything else they tested that was made for a caliber specific..

^^^^

I’ll never buy another dedicated 223/5.56 can. I’ll keep buying 30 cal or larger stuff.

I’ll posit they’re almost all at least as quiet as a dedicated 223 can, because: they’ve almost all got far more chamber volume than most dedicated 223 cans, which is where your suppression happens to begin with. Most 223 cans are minimized for 223. That catch 22 likely matters far more than bore size or appropriate end caps. For high volume semis, I’m in on the flow through stuff. I’ve probably ingested enough trash from surefires over the years. For hunting, even with ARs, it’s not been an issue so much.

Silencer Central Banish 46 multi caliber
user serviceable
multiple attachment options-Ti brakes,Ti Piston Hsg,Ti Direct thread
TI & Inconel construction