Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Mule Deer & Others- give us a adequate field repair kit

Hello everyone. I read, a few weeks ago, how Mule Deer commented on people not bringing tools and supplies to maintain and repair firearms while in the field. GUILTY AS CHARGED! Mule Deer will you and others help all of us by using your experience for all of us to assemble a superior field repair kit. I can't believe that in Sixty two years I've never been caught not needing a field repair kit.

Here's one of my Sports Afield rifle columns that was published in the past year:

One of hunting’s ongoing tragedies involves rifles failing in the field. This doesn’t mean bullet “failure,” or a hunter missing, but our rifles failing mechanically. This doesn’t matter nearly as much when hunting near home, but it can in a remote area where gunsmiths are even rarer than the game we seek.

The most common failures I’ve encountered, both with my rifles and those of companions, involved rifle scopes, and sometimes their mounts. This brings up the first point: Any rifle/scope combination should be thoroughly test-fired before taking it on a big trip—which does not mean sighting-in over a benchrest.
Today’s scopes have far more reliable and accurate adjustments than many even 20 years ago, and it should only require a few rounds to get a rifle shooting where we want it to. But a dozen rounds aren’t enough to test how a scope reacts to recoil, especially on a rifle chambered for a .300 magnum or larger cartridge.

That applies to any brand of scope. I’ve had 20 different brands fail on rifles—and again that’s brands, not individual scopes. Some brands were practically indestructible, but even very tough scopes are always the weakest link a hunting rifle. They have to be, due to containing so many small parts, some made of glass.

Most scopes fail early in their career, so it’s a good idea to avoid mounting a new scope on a new rifle for a major travel hunt. If the rifle doesn’t group well, is it due to the scope, the rifle or the ammo? You don’t know, and often there’s not enough time before the trip to sort it out. I know this partly thanks to going on hunts with various manufacturers who invite writers to field-test their wares, especially scope and rifle makers. Many scope failures have been on such hunts, often after the scope was freshly mounted and the rifle sighted-in—but sometimes during sight-in.

Yet many hunters “celebrate” going on their first elk hunt or African safari by buying a new rifle and scope—and the rifle’s often chambered for a harder-kicking round, to ensure the elk or kudu is really most sincerely dead. I know this due to having guided quite a bit in my younger days. Watching watching clients target-checking their new rifles could be an adventure, because the rifle’s recoil sometimes scrambled a scope within a few rounds, but the hunter’s “recoil resistance” could also be a factor. It’s generally better to take a proven rifle/scope combination, even when chambered for an “average” big game cartridge. My wife Eileen has suffered from progressively worse recoil headaches over the past 15 years, and these days her “big” rifle is chambered for the .308 Winchester—which hasn’t yet failed her either on elk or elk-sized plains game.

However, even long-tested scopes can go bonkers—and mounts can loosen. There are various solutions, such as taking two rifles—or when hunting with a buddy or two, bring one extra rifle among you. However, this isn’t possible on some hunts, especially those involving light planes with limited space.
Another is to bring a spare scope, and the tools to mount it—or tighten the mounts. This is why my primary travel tool is a screwdriver, with detachable bits inside its hollow handle that fit the screws on the rifle and its scope mounts. There’s also a small tube of blue thread-locker, which will keep screws from vibrating loose—and not just on my rifle (where many screws are already thread-locked) but on my companions’ rifles. Sometimes I’ve even resorted to epoxying scope-mount bases onto harder-kicking rifles, just be sure.

Handier, though more expensive, is putting both the primary and spare scope in the same type of detachable mount, with the spare already sighted-in, saving both time and ammunition. The amount of ammo you can bring is often limited—and like gunsmiths, sporting goods stores aren’t common on remote hunts.

On my first safari the PH told me about a hunter he’d recently guided who brought one 20-round box of ammo for his new magnum—and ran low halfway through the safari, after having to tweak the scope a few times after it bounced around in the Land Cruiser. This required a 200-mile round-trip to where ammo could be purchased, much of it on unpaved roads—and the ammo cost considerably more to buy than it would have back home.

Rifles can also break, especially triggers and extractors. When I was traveling a lot on remote hunts my Main Rifle was a custom, lightweight .338 Winchester Magnum built on a commercial Fabrique Nationale 98 Mauser action. Yeah, it was “overkill” for deer-sized animals, but it still killed ‘em, so was very versatile—and even today spare 98 parts are cheap and readily available, thanks millions of military Mausers.

All those actions were designed so breakable parts could easily be replaced, even by soldiers with limited mechanical skills. So I took along a small bag with a military extractor, ejector, firing pin and spring, plus military trigger—even though the main trigger on the .338 was also military. All those parts are also pretty rugged, and I never needed the spares—but it felt comforting to have them along when several days from a gunsmith, whether in Alaska or the Kalahari Desert.

It can also help to bring a break-down or collapsible cleaning rod and a few patches, especially a model fitting easily inside a daypack. This usually isn’t needed to clean the rifle, but can remove stuff like snow or dirt from the bore. Of course, getting snow or dirt inside the barrel can generally be prevented by placing a strip of electrical or duct tape over the muzzle. While I have heard this can affect accuracy, and have seen that possibly happen when range-testing, I have yet to have it affect bullet placement when shooting big game at “normal” ranges. Apparently wind has a far greater effect, along with what’s often called “the nut behind the bolt,” which cannot be prevented by applying thread-locker.

Tape also has other uses. On one safari a companion hadn’t even bothered to zero the new scope on his buffalo rifle before leaving home. During the sight-in session the first morning in camp, we discovered the scope couldn’t be adjusted enough for bullets to land at the junction of the crosshairs. I fixed this by removing the scope from its rings, then placing a few strips of electrical tape inside the bottom half of one of the rings. The worked fine until, near the end of the safari, the scope went bat-crazy, which can happen on rifles chambered for Cape buffalo cartridges.

Duct tape can also hold together cracked rifle stocks— if not cracked too badly and the rifle doesn’t kick too much. But I also bring along some epoxy, and often other kinds of glue. Stocks usually break at the grip, the thinnest spot, but also where rear action screw hole tends to be located. With wooden stocks some strong epoxy can often hold it together for at least a few shots, but on a horseback hunt in British Columbia the synthetic stock of one guide’s rifle cracked when riding through thick timber. It was a light “lay-up” stock, and while it didn’t break completely, it was hollow so applying epoxy to the outside of the break wouldn’t help, because the fiberglass strips were pretty shredded.

The solution came was an empty oat-bag formerly filled with horse-feed. This wasn’t a traditional burlap feed-bag, but a woven synthetic. We cut a strip about three inches wide and a foot long, and glued it around the grip, curing the epoxy by leaning the stock next to a warm wood-stove. (Epoxy molecules interlace quicker and more completely when warmed.) It worked well enough for the guide to finish the hunt.

I see you mentioned a collapsable cleaning rod, also very handy if you’ve ever, for a variety of reasons, had a stuck bullet in your barrel!

Had a friends 375H&H suffer a case separation. Lucky I carry a collapsible cleaning rod. Same with an expensive English DR with a bullet up the spout due to a lack of powder🤪

Always have fitting turn screws handy.

I will never see Africa of course, although I lived in remote Alaska for 8 years...I never really needed a tool kit.
I think the primary reason is, never felt the need for any rifle that wasn't labeled Winchester 70 or hadn't served in various wars (Mauser/Mannlicher). The key to Mauser reliability, IMO, is to minimize the number of aftermarket "improvements"...keep it as original as possible, and it will not fail. Every Mauser failure I ever saw was caused by aftermarket triggers, safeties, ground followers, ground extractors, or cartridge conversions unsuitable for the original Mauser family of cartridges.
So that out of the way, optics bases and rings...Weaver forever, period. Also, simple blade front and folding leaf iron sights on 9 out of 10 of my hunting rifles.
Optics...books have been written on this, but slowly, my entire inventory has gone to simple, rugged fixed power scopes...either with an ancient track record of reliability or a few later models recommended by 'fire users (straight 6x Meopta is one example). Just because the market trends have tended to long range shooting, doesn't mean I did...the game in my area are where they always were, well inside 250 yards, so no Hubble scopes needed.
My point is, if you double check your hunting ammo loading in stages, have a rifle with decades of reliability behind it...sensible plain mounts, reliable optics, you can minimize the need for a kit. Although, I do like some Mannlichers with the buttstock cleaning rod.

What is this? I may know it, but not by this name…

The majority of my hunting happens within walking distance of my pickup. I've got a couple sets of screwdriver/bit deals, including a couple of "micro" sets with the tiny Allen/torx/screwdriver heads. I can access/manipulate scope mounts/rings, zero-stop screws, turret set screws, trigger adjustment screws, stock bolts, eye-glasses bows, basically anything held together with a screw/bolt. I also keep a 3-piece brass cleaning rod under the back seat. Along with a tow-strap, propane bottle torch, multiple ratchet straps, a BIG slip-joint pliers, a "cold-proof" extension cord, and behind the seat a high-torque impact w/2 batterys, 24" breaker bar, as well as a set of metric and SAE sockets.

More often than not, there's plenty of room in my pickup so for my part, I typically also have a backup to whatever my quarry is. A second shotgun for birds if we're bird hunting and the primary is failing for some reason. If hunting big game, that typically means I've got at least 3 rifles. A primary, a backup, typically in the same chambering using the same ammo, with the 3rd being my "truck-gun" that almost never leaves the pickup. Currently that means a Kimber Montana in 1:8 22-250 using 75gn A-Max, and, while not what I'd prefer to use if a primary and a backup rifle both failed me on a deer, hunt, I'd use the 22-250 and just be pickier about shots and shot placement.

The Caribou hunt we went on I was down to 1 screwdriver/bit set, a Leatherman with a "flat" bit set, and a 3-piece brass rod in with my clothing. There was 3 of us on the hunt with 1 rifle each and we figured that if a rifle went down, we'd just share as needed.

My most embarrassing failure, was really more of a failure to prepare properly, not an equipment failure. We'd gotten to camp for a horseback Mule-Deer hunt. Double checked our rifles with the guides watching and everything checks out fine. So, the evening before we're packing packs, I start to load my rifle's magazine and the ammo doesn't fit the magazine. To this day I'm still not sure how it happened, but, the 150gn ABLR handloads were almost a full "tip" longer than the 270Win Kimber 84L magazine. So the Kimber went back into the case before the hunt ever started, I carried my M70 SS Fwt in 270Win and took a 150 something inch buck on the last day. Nobody's fault but my own, but, a backup that was every bit as good as the primary saved any sort of time/trouble. No harm but my pride.

These can come in handy, especially if swapping scopes becomes necessary.

https://store.fixitsticks.com/

I bring a spare rifle. I usually hunt with in the same group. Everyone expects that I’ll have them covered. When I planned on an over seas trip I had two pre-64’s 300 H&H and 375H&H AI. The mounting for the scopes are the same. They have quick detach mounts -Leupold. A spare scope has the same mounts. The spare is sighted in for the 375 as I suspect that might fail first if one was to fail. The spare and the 375 wear 4x older Leupold scopes. The 300 has a 3x9 older Leupold. That one is one I’d have to sight in, in the field if that scope failed. If the 300 failed I could use the 375. If the 375 failed and I wanted to shoot something that I felt required the power, I’d hope the guide would lend me his rifle.
I’ve been buying different scopes as recommended by members here, and so far use them mostly on deer or pronghorn hunts. Zeiss, Fullfield, newer Leupolds, & a couple El Paso Weavers pretty much covers the scopes.

I think that after reading the above (MD) comments I’ll be bringing epoxy, which I haven’t done. Screwdrivers and cleaning rods I have.

One of the rifles I take either as a spare or main rifle has a strong Kevlar stock - SS 270 ADL 700. It has a 6x Leupold also an older one. The other rifle I bring will likely be different every hunt, but I’ll have many rounds done the tube before it goes hunting.

I’ve hunted almost every year since I was a teenager.
I’ve only needed a spare once, for me that is. Sad story - I carved a stock to fit me on a 600 barreled action. I tumbled down a steep slope. The stock broke at the wrist. Bad gunsmithing I suppose.
My younger brother had a rifle with a failed scope, I think it was an early Tasco on a 7mm RM. He finished the pronghorn hunt with a spare I brought before I had that 270.

I think that’s Aussie for screwdriver…

More British rifle trade for a (hopefully) well fitting screwdriver! Especially when dealing with old pommy rifles and guns! Often supplied with the weapon in its case.

Have you ever really hunted more than a mile from home.................in 62 years???????

And asking a question like this?????????????

Really??????????

MM

If mentioned, I missed it…..quality electrical tape.

Mostly waterproof, tough, can be used for a multitude of things from, taping the end of a rifle barrel, piecing together a rifle stock, to first aid!

A lot of good stuff in a light, small package. memtb

I carry a simple armours kit. Plus a multi tool. I have never had a rifle fail, but have had optics fail. One reason I consider rifles without sights, unfinished. ( my opinion) Like Flintlock I am a big fan of Mausers and Winchester model 70's and Ruger 77.

First trip to RSA the rifle bearer accidently dropped my main rifle down an embankment and smashed the scope on rocks scrambling to get it it to me in the excitement of a Kudu sighting.
I took two model left hand 70's, main & backup. Neither rifle had iron sights. Each had a different bases and scope rings that would not interchange. I used the backup 30 06 for most of the 3 weeks I was there. Had the main rifle been equipped with a QD scope and iron sights, I would have had time to take the scope off and shoot the Kudu of a lifetime with iron sights.

Spending that much money on a trip of a lifetime and learning that lesson, I focus on risk management. I have matching custom commercial left hand Mausers with 100% parts interchangeability except the Magnum specific parts. One in 30 06 and the other in .375 Ruger. The same QD rings and one piece weaver style scope bases. The same iron sights. Same custom stocks. A spare scope for each rifle that is sighted in a ready to mount. The rifles have very similar ballistics and range. The .375 is heavier but they handle close to the same. Also carry a good breakdown cleaning rod, cleaning supplies, small parts & tools, and good bore sights for each rifle to check scope zero.

What model rifle are you using?

The rifles are based on the Zastava commercial left hand M70 Mauser 98 actions. The 30 06 barrel is from Krieger, the .375 barrel Douglas and everything else is also aftermarket.

FS
I am confused by your answer but will assume you mean M70 and Mauser 98.
I have travelled with both so will give an answer for both.

For all rifles I carry the following:
Very small bottle of cleaning solution. I prefer Hoppes #9 or Butch’s. I re-bottle in a Nalgene 8 or 12 ml lab bottle. You can also use an 8ml eye drop bottle.
One Nalgene plastic dropper.
One 8” section of silicone tubing.
One bore pull thru cleaner for the bore size next smaller than your barrel with the brush removed.
One short front section of a cheap aluminum rod with the slot attachment which I use to wipe the chamber.
When needed I invert the rifle, insert the tube into the chamber and put three or four drops into the tube and let soak overnight. First thing in morning I use pull thru snake to dry the bore. I always remove the brush from the snake. Its purpose is to dry the bore. Remove brush! Don’t get a snake with brush stuck in barrel!

I carry an extra scope that has been pre-zeroed. I usually never take extra mounts. Have never seen a mount injured. I prefer a 3x or 4x old Leupold.

Of course take whatever screwdrivers or wrenches are appropriate for your rifle.

I take one Leupold sighting in target and four push pins. Plus a short section of masking tape to cover holes if necessary.

FS continued
Scope mounts I prefer are Weaver cross slot with 4 ring screws or Leupold dual dovetails or TPS hunter rings. Weaver are cheap and tough.

I think iron sights are worthless and get caught on brush and gun cases.

I carry a heavy canvas Boyt case.

For a M70. Older actions with original triggers…don’t bother with parts…difficult to do field repairs. Supposed to be bombproof but I have had several break. If newer CRF replace claw extractor with a quality part before you leave. New trigger…don’t attempt field replacement.

For 98, take an extra extractor and have someone show you how to switch. I have had one break. Clean trigger of any gunk before leaving. I carry a spare but you need to be sure you know how to switch. For lefty 98 this will be a problem to find a part.

All my mechanical failures with 98 and M70 have happened at my range not while hunting. Remember other than 2 or 3 zero verification shots your total trip will require maybe 10 to 12 cartridges. You are not going into a battlefield. Hopefully your rifle is reliable enough for 20 shots.

I have used 700 a lot. The original unaltered M700 have never failed. I do carry a spare trigger but have never used it because I don’t get oil, WD40, or lubricants near the trigger. Clean trigger before you leave.

I carry a Bushnell Collimator always and check every day or so. On my mandatory list!

RinB, someone asked for the specific model of the rifle the actions are from. Even though they are not Model 70 Winchester actions, Zastava chose to name them M70's but in reality they are Mauser 98 actions. https://www.huntinggearguy.com/rifle-reviews/zastava-m70-review/