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dale06 Offline OP
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Is there anything wrong with “turning down” the shank portion of a rifle barrel to allow clearance for a large objective scope?
If so what’s the most one could remove?
Any accuracy issues in doing this?
I am using very tall rings already.

Thanks


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Originally Posted by dale06
Is there anything wrong with “turning down” the shank portion of a rifle barrel to allow clearance for a large objective scope?
If so what’s the most one could remove?
Any accuracy issues in doing this?
I am using very tall rings already.

Thanks

How long is your shank? I tend to think of the shank as the portion shown in the first photo that is in the white.

I recently repurposed this barrel and transformed it from this:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


to this:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Last edited by z1r; 02/20/24.
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I know there are formulas in better gunsmithing books, Modern Gunsmithing by Howe, for one, but my guidelines are based on a takeoff 99 Savage featherweight .308 barrel out in the shop....and doing a little math from that as a minimum baseline.
You probably don't mean shank? Maybe chamber area?


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Originally Posted by dale06
Is there anything wrong with “turning down” the shank portion of a rifle barrel to allow clearance for a large objective scope?
If so what’s the most one could remove?
Any accuracy issues in doing this?
I am using very tall rings already.

Thanks
I've done it at times.. Some barrel-makers have a shank of 2.5". I've cut 'em down to 2.0" at times, depending on the chambering.. Most custom 'smiths order barrels with a specific shank diameter right from the maker..

When I do a M70 I order the shank to be at 1.150" to match the manufacturer, unless the chambering requires a bit bigger diameter..

Last edited by Redneck; 02/20/24.

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The English would call that the "knoxform", no?


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I don't think so ... I think it's just a flat for the wrench? And maybe spelled Nock's form.


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It depends on the Cartridge and pressures as to how long the shank needs to be. I try to keep the taper just ahead of where the throat is since that's the high pressure / flame spot
For Example .223 I will start the taper at 1.75 ", for .308 starts at 2.125 " , .300 Mag at 3 ". I have not had one blow up yet using that method.
I am usually buying straight blanks to custom machine .
Rich


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Compare your needed diameter to a Winchester Featherweight contour.

https://www.benchrest.com/douglas/dimensions.html

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FWT shank is still 1.150 diameter but the length is only about 3/16" - for the majority of non-magnum chamberings..


Originally Posted by Mooseman684
It depends on the Cartridge and pressures as to how long the shank needs to be.
Absolutely..
Quote
For Example .223 I will start the taper at 1.75 ", for .308 starts at 2.125 " , .300 Mag at 3 ". I have not had one blow up yet using that method.
I can see why... laugh But I'm guessing you mean distance 'from the tenon end,' and not from the receiver face, right?


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Taller scope rings won't work ?

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Originally Posted by Redneck
FWT shank is still 1.150 diameter but the length is only about 3/16" - for the majority of non-magnum chamberings..


Originally Posted by Mooseman684
It depends on the Cartridge and pressures as to how long the shank needs to be.
Absolutely..
Quote
For Example .223 I will start the taper at 1.75 ", for .308 starts at 2.125 " , .300 Mag at 3 ". I have not had one blow up yet using that method.
I can see why... laugh But I'm guessing you mean distance 'from the tenon end,' and not from the receiver face, right?
Yes , from the face of the Tenon or breech face of the barrel.
Rich


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Thanks for the clarify.. smile


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