Home Forums Hunting & Shooting AR and Tactical Rifles AR barrel threading

What's the normal cost and where is a good place to have it done?
Is there a good place in Wichita, KS?
Thanks in advance.
John

I don't know the answer to your question, but am curious, what AR barrel do you have that wouldn't be threaded? A "ban era" gun?

Why not just get a complete upper with threaded barrel

I traded for this from a friend. He bought it probably 15-20 yrs ago. It had the military stock and the upper with the carry handle. The barrel is 20" long and has a counter bore on the end that looks like it is for threading. I am looking at buying a new barrel but just wondered what it would cost since it is an accurate barrel.

Truth is, having threading done on a barrel, by the time you pay shipping both ways plus labor, is likely going to cost as much as a new barrel these days.

If the barrel is turned down to the correct diameter, you could simply buy the correct die and thread starter for probably around $40.

I think I'll buy this barrel from Midway for $119.99:

AR-STONER Barrel AR-15 223 Remington (Wylde) Heavy Contour 1 in 8" Twist 20" Fluted Stainless Steel

https://adcofirearms.com/shop/gunsmithing/barrel-threading-gunsmithing/arstandard-barrel-threading/

Adco charges $75 probably about the same as your local machine shop.

Do not just buy a die and try to thread it yourself.

Why not thread it yourself? Especially if the barrel is like most other ban barrels that are turned down to the correct diameter, just omitted the threads to comply with stupid laws.

Just taking a guess here, you've either never done it because you don't understand or are afraid to, or tried once and screwed it up? I was a gunsmith for years and those are generally the 3 types of people that would pay you to do what they wouldn't.

Making threads in or on metal ain't 'zactly rocket science with a TAT (thread alignment tool). Especially if you don't need a lathe for turning down to the correct major diameter.

This post is a microcosm of why the Fire is broken.

Guy asks question. He gets one actual answer, two people not helping, and then a macho post about how another person is a coward.

All that for a question that Google can answer. Search “AR barrel threading Wichita Kansas” and click on the second response.

John Thomas/Retro Arms is your friend here, AR guru.

While not my main job description, I have two worn out lathes here at the shop.

But the reason I won't recommend using a die is a lot of bores are not centered with the outside of the barrel. Thread it without a pilot and you could screw up a suppressor if one was to use one.

The thread starter I referred to above (TAT-_Thread Alignment Tool) is a bore pilot. You can get them at ebay, amazon, a host of places that sell tools and such like midway and brownells for around $15 or so.

example:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007041924?pid=465127






I do try to be helpful. I was raised to be self sufficient and learned how to do a great many things early on in life, like working with tools and not relying on someone else for something I can do myself. I only gave the guy an option he may not have known about.

This ^^^
This is not a plumbing job or a pipe fitter's job.
Those muzzle threads need to be concentric with the bore centerline.

OP, pay a qualified 'smith or buy a barrel that already has muzzle threads.
Your existing barrel could be off of a National Match rifle and may have value to someone.

You guys are not wrong about needing to be concentric. In having mic'd a bunch of factory barrels though, you'd be surprised to find out that none of them truly are though. Some are better than others, but there's always some small variances. It's why ALL silencers (or muzzlebrakes or whatever) are OVERBORED.

.
Another reason not to use your method is that you can't cut a shoulder and that's when you should realize that this ain't the way to do this.

There are gunsmiths and then there are precision gun smiths. Good enough is not always good enough.

Sell your barrel to someone that doesn't give a schidt if it's threaded or not, and use that money towards the barrel you want. That's about the only option I'd use, unless I had a lathe to do the work myself. And please don't use a die to thread a barrel. Totally wrong way to go about that kind of work. Most good smiths/machinists will use a 4 jaw chuck and dial that in until the bore is within .0002" TIR. That's not 2 thousandths either. There are still guys out there that like non threaded barrels. I use plenty of them.

You are not being helpful. You are suggesting a course of action that is impossible.

There are no commercial AR barrels in the history of the entire world that have the proper sized section on the end of the barrel but are not threaded and could be properly threaded with just a thread die.

You are simply making shit up just to post and that's litterally the opposite of being helpful.

Please stop this.

Thanks.

I have "helped" our guy a lot. Everything centers to half/ten thousandth. Its time consuming. But centering on the bore makes sense. Even cut threads to the suppressor. IE correct but only cut a bit at a time until it threads on snug.

Generally zero's don't move enough with them off and on if done carefully. Not enough for general work anyway.

Is this the barrel you wanted yeselk ?? I have that barrel. It needed lapped (a lot) in order to get it to shoot well. It's also a bit heavy.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1024728681?pid=105479

I highly recommend this barrel instead. Yes, it's much more expensive but I caught the 18" version of this one on sale and paid a lot less than listed in this link. I did lap my barrel once it got to my house and made sure it was clean internally before installing it. I spent much less time getting it to shoot than the Stoner barrel. Plus, it's so much lighter. But, if you are retired and want to spend the time, the Stoner barrel has potential. kwg
https://www.ballisticadvantage.com/...-length-ar-15-barrel-premium-series.html

Good suggestion on the BA barrel. Every one of them I've see, have shot pretty well. Some better than others, but none of them bad.

Unless you are simply looking to suppress, I wouldn't waste the time threading just for a FH or brake...just be aware, the AR Stoner barrels can be hit or miss.