Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Alaska SR 1911 issues - need gunsmith

The area with the spring is clean but maybe the spring is faulty, good call!!

Now how do I check it?

I’d get an aftermarket stronger firing pin spring.

DF

And I’d polish the firing pin tip.

DF

I agree about the firing pin spring. If the firing pin tip doesn't look smoothly rounded it might be best to get a new one. If you haven't changed the recoil spring for a while I'd also get a new one of those in addition to the firing pin spring. Total cost is probably less than $20 for Wolff springs and maybe $15 for a firing pin.

These new parts might not solve the issue, but it's a simple and cheap first step that eliminates a bunch of possible problems.

Agree that’s where I’d start. May or may not solve the problem. It’s worth a try.

Firing pin spring at Midway is $4.

DF

Googling the issue seems to beg of new springs for recoil and firing pin as fairly common solution. Bent firing pin tip also could be. And could be deeper too.

I started looking for new pin and spring, what a rabbit hole that turned into!! Multiple diameters and materials I don’t know where to start. I’ll check out wolf soon

I’ll also polish my current pin and see what that does.

Never handled the Ruger.

Assuming it’s a std 1911, using std 1911 parts.

A call to Ruger may be in order.

DF

If it's the original pin, I would look into one of the Wilson Combat titanium firing pins, along with a new spring. Good luck!

I've read confusing things about the titanium springs, some good some bad. My guess is your experience has been positive

EDIT - I meant titanium pins

Did some Google research. Seems the SR 1911 uses a Swartz firing pin safety, like the Kimber and S&W. There is some criticism on this system. The grip safety has to be compressed for a lever to raise the firing pin block so the gun can fire.

There's not any mention of it keeping the firing pin projected too long. The SR also has a light weight titanium firing pin and a strong firing pin spring.

Some advocate replacing that system with a Colt Series 70 firing pin. I don't know about that, reportedly it's one option.

Given the more involved Swartz system, I think I'd call Ruger, maybe even send it back, especially if the new springs didn't work.

DF

Has anyone been firing a lot of +P ammo in it? Ruger uses MEM manufacturing to keep the price down. And there seems to be a lot of people with that same weapon with the same problems. Though thats the first I've seen with the case that screwed up. Don't think its an ejection problem. Send it back to Ruger with the brass and photos.

Phil

I'm not an MIM fan, although proponents say it's as strong as cast or milled steel. I'm not so sure.

And, I'm not sure what MIM part failed, to produce the OP's issue. And I agree with you; I've never seen that before.

To me the best explanation is the firing pin staying out too long, gouging the primer as the barrel drops down, unlocking the action. It seems the primer is scooped out by the protruding firing pin. I bet the scooped out part is at 12:00, at the top of the round. May be hard to prove that after the empty case has been ejected.

To the OP, let us know what you find and how you fix it.

Curious.

DF


Edited to add, what if the OP marked the round with a magic marker, chambered the round, positioning the mark at 12:00, fired the round and observed if the gouged out part corresponds to the 12:00 mark. Bet it does.

That would be good info for Ruger to know. I'd like to know that, too.

What is MIM or MEM?

I thought about marking the case and its a good idea, I'll polish today and get out to shoot again early next week

Metal Injection Molding (MIM) is a newer process of making small metal parts. Google for better explanation.

Reported to be as strong as milled/cast, I’ve had MIM parts break. I’m not that impressed.

Not sure MIM failure caused your issue. Not sure how many MIM parts Ruger uses and in the SR 1911.

DF

I have two Ruger SR's and neither is a shwartz set-up, both are standard series 70.

That would good news if it was mine.

For OP, I’d check to see if it’s Swartz or 70 type.

My check off list would be firing pin not retracting. I’d look at the firing pin spring, check firing pin for slick and smooth and freely moving back and forth.

If Swartz safety, I may send it back. Don’t know much about that, never examined one.

If some Swartz and some 70, wonder if they changed and if so, when. Wish I knew more about the Swartz.

DF

Ruger use's mim disconnectors and sears, I replaced both of mine.

Sear is part#1 disconnector is #2 trigger bow is#3

Bogtrotter, if SR 1911’s are reportedly Swartz and can retrofitted with a 70 firing pin, were your two converted or 70 type from Ruger.

DF

Edited to note you answered my question before I posted it, while I was writing it,