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1963 John Deere tractor in GOOD working order.

2WD and gasoline engine. New Clutch installed.

Runs and works as it should. 40 Horsepower.

Value?

Selling for a friend.

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$2500

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For Wabi, $25,000


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2000


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He was hoping for $1,600...

I was thinking it might be worth a bit more.

Runs well actually...


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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Originally Posted by CashisKing
He was hoping for $1,600...

I was thinking it might be worth a bit more.

Runs well actually...


If it’s in decent running condition it oughta be worth about 2k.

>>—->

Hell I’m looking for a little acreage size tractor like that and I’d certainly give 2k for it.

Last edited by muleshoe; 03/31/24.

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Tractors like that while very very well built have more and more limited use. They just don’t have the modern ability to handle all the newer quick detachable implements that are so handy to use

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The 10 series of JD's were not known as good tractors, when compared for the 20 series, and later ones. When I first started farming back in the early 70's and was looking for a tractor, I was thinking about buying a 2010. Every single person I asked for advice, and that included some who ran nothing but JD equipment, all said to avoid it like the plague. They were JD's first tractors beyond the two cylinder models, and it took a while to get the bugs worked out, which they had done when they introduced the 20 series.

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1050 is a better tractor

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If it were closer, I'd be all over it. It would be perfect to replace the old 8N for blading snow off the drive, corrugating pastures, etc.

I have never seen a John Deere smaller than a 2010, except for true compacts and yard tractors. The 1010 would make a good alternative to the ubiquitous MF 35, 135, 235s that populate this region.
Tractor Data rates the 1010 at 30 hp at the wheels, while the 35 is rated 32 hp at the wheels. both are about 37 at the PTO. Really quite comparable.


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Rattle can paint it and add $1,000 to the price .


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Originally Posted by Huntz
Rattle can paint it and add $1,000 to the price .


That would work! Then I would guess it would sell for about $2500

I used to have a utility (yellow) JD 1010 with front loader and good sized factory frame mounted JD backhoe that was rated to dig down 12 ft. Bought it for $1000. Shoulda kept it.

It still had the 3-point hitch (Category 2 ???) and PTO shaft at the rear, never used because the backhoe had been mounted from day one. The 3ph top link bracket had a pivot pin and linkage going down to the rear case that was used for automatically controlling the depth of a plow when running on uneven ground. Your tractor has this feature. You can see it in the third pic. The depth adjusting bolt is just above the top link hitch pin, and the yellow linkage is visible just to the right going down to the rear case.

It all worked good, but had a few design problems. One was where the clutch pedal arm fit over a splined shaft coming out of the bell housing/transmission ... the clutch arm was slipping on the splines| It looked like it was the proper part, but there should have been no way that would have worn out.

Also, I expected the 1010 would have a better range of transmission gearing. It only had 3 forward gears and a reverse. Kept looking around for some lever to throw to give low range gearing. Nope, that was it. With the loader and backhoe it really struggled going up a hill. It was OK on flat ground.

Lastly, not much of a design problem ... the 1010s came with louvered side panels to protect the engine from the elements. These panels are missing on your 1010 as was mine. This let rain drip down on the distributor and mess up the ignition. Real pain to waterproof.

Oh yeah, its a widow maker without a roll bar.


================

Edited to add: Now that I think about it, that plow depth control implies down pressure is available on the 3-point hitch. If so, that could be a selling point for someone buying to use a rear blade on their driveway. Most (all ??) small utility tractors don't have down pressure on their 3ph. So when grading the driveway need to add weights to the rear blade to get some "bite".

Last edited by Dumdum; 03/31/24.

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