|
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 23,101
Campfire Ranger
|
Campfire Ranger
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 23,101 |
Degree of "shine" with an oil finish is entirely dependent upon wood surface treatment, regardless of finish used (as long as it's fully cured). The finer the finish abrasive the more shine.
Sanded to 220x or maybe 320x, oiled, and waxed with any quality paste wax is as far as I would take an M1 stock to avoid making it look like a pimped-up Bubba Special. As for waxes there's a bunch of good ones. I've settled on Renaissance Wax.
As for Hitler:Trump - really? I've checked out Rennaissance Wax and it seems good to have around, generally, but I've inferred it does not add any shine and that you can't put it over RLO. If that's not true then I'd like to try it. I assume I'd have to wait until the RLO fully cured first? Trust me, Ren Wax shines. Putting any wax over RLO would be like trying to polish a turd, at least not until you've reached retirement age while waiting for it to cure.
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz "Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 37
Campfire Greenhorn
|
OP
Campfire Greenhorn
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 37 |
Degree of "shine" with an oil finish is entirely dependent upon wood surface treatment, regardless of finish used (as long as it's fully cured). The finer the finish abrasive the more shine.
Sanded to 220x or maybe 320x, oiled, and waxed with any quality paste wax is as far as I would take an M1 stock to avoid making it look like a pimped-up Bubba Special. As for waxes there's a bunch of good ones. I've settled on Renaissance Wax.
As for Hitler:Trump - really? I've checked out Rennaissance Wax and it seems good to have around, generally, but I've inferred it does not add any shine and that you can't put it over RLO. If that's not true then I'd like to try it. I assume I'd have to wait until the RLO fully cured first? Trust me, Ren Wax shines. Putting any wax over RLO would be like trying to polish a turd, at least not until you've reached retirement age while waiting for it to cure. Thank you. I think what now seems to make the most sense for this particular stock would be to strip it and start over with Tru-Oil or similar.
Sorry Trump and Republic Party, you're WRONG! Our war dead are NOT "suckers" and "losers."
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 1,911
Campfire Regular
|
Campfire Regular
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 1,911 |
Degree of "shine" with an oil finish is entirely dependent upon wood surface treatment, regardless of finish used (as long as it's fully cured). The finer the finish abrasive the more shine.
Sanded to 220x or maybe 320x, oiled, and waxed with any quality paste wax is as far as I would take an M1 stock to avoid making it look like a pimped-up Bubba Special. As for waxes there's a bunch of good ones. I've settled on Renaissance Wax.
As for Hitler:Trump - really? I've checked out Rennaissance Wax and it seems good to have around, generally, but I've inferred it does not add any shine and that you can't put it over RLO. If that's not true then I'd like to try it. I assume I'd have to wait until the RLO fully cured first? Trust me, Ren Wax shines. Putting any wax over RLO would be like trying to polish a turd, at least not until you've reached retirement age while waiting for it to cure. Thank you. I think what now seems to make the most sense for this particular stock would be to strip it and start over with Tru-Oil or similar. Hey, now THERE'S an idea......
I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children may live in peace. ~~ Thomas Paine
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,613
Campfire Regular
|
Campfire Regular
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,613 |
You need to seal the wood before you start fooling around with the finish. Cut your finishing oil 50/50 with mineral spirits. TruOil is good. I use Minwax Antique Oil. Mix in a few drops of Japan Drier. Hang the stock and slop it on until it won't absorb any more and let it dry for a few days. Once it dries the real work starts. Edit: your final finish is directly proportional to the quality of the wood. You can't polish a turd.
Last edited by rlott; 04/21/24.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 179 Likes: 3
Campfire Member
|
Campfire Member
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 179 Likes: 3 |
We have always used beeswax on gun stocks, followed up by linseed oil. Begs the question, why put the barrier coat on first to impede the oil's absorption into the wood? The reason my statement made no sense is because I didn't understand the process my dad was using. I had it completely wrong. I just remembered helping him fix up stocks on [new to us] old guns that needed a lot of TLC.
Last edited by Q_Sertorius; 04/21/24.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,658 Likes: 1
Campfire Regular
|
Campfire Regular
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,658 Likes: 1 |
common to use a spit coat of sealer on open grain wood though I never used wax. fill the grain, sand then stain or finish.
I used shellac (not the best choice) on a stock before using the oil.
|
|
|
|
87 members (Anaconda, 7mm_Loco, 444Matt, 1_deuce, 338reddog, 79S, 8 invisible),
1,527
guests, and
745
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
Forums81
Topics1,192,368
Posts18,488,296
Members73,970
|
Most Online11,491 Jul 7th, 2023
|
|
|
|