Hi all, Just picked up a security 6, 4 inch barrel and it shoots great, but am wondering about a good set of springs to lighten hammer and trigger pull, or am i not gonna gain anything by changing them? Any info would be great.
I had one I shot extensively in the 80’s. Brownells sold a spring kit. It and many double action cycles cycles helped. I liked that pistol a lot and shot it well. Gave it to a dear friend when I headed east after a spike elk chased him around a tree in bow season. His son still carries it. F01
svg250; Top of the morning, I hope that your part of Wisconsin is getting a decent spring and you're well.
With the understanding that I made the modifications decades back and have used it as it is since.
This came from a small gun shop in Oroville, WA, back in those halcyon pre 9/11 days when we were still able to buy firearms and components down there.
It was used but not much and came with the Bianchi holster. For the life of me I cannot recall what I paid for it, but I'd sold a very accurate Blackhawk and decided I might try some IPSC shooting at the local club level so this would do.
What I did to that one besides build the cosmetic stuff like build the grips, install the rib and build a different front sight was polish all the internals and yes, I believe I clipped at least one coil off of the mainspring. I might have also replaced another spring but might be wrong about that.
If I could get a spring kit, nowadays that's by far my preference just because I can always go back if something goes south with the modifications.
Is it as smooth as a S&W from that era?
No, not quite, but the polishing and the spring mod did smooth it out or at least my fingers thought so.
Hope that was useful to you or someone out there.
Good luck with your new project whichever way you decide.
Wolff still offers springs for the SEC 6, as does TK custom.
Don't loose the original hammer spring as some Sec 6's won't tolerate a lighter hammer spring for double action firing, or will require the the exclusive use of the easiest to ignite Federal primers.
Good guns, but most of the original ones I've had needed trigger jobs in a big way.
What is that difference between the security six and the GP100?
The GP 100 is a beast
The SP101 is a small like a K-frame
Where does the security six fit in there
BMT
Last edited by BMT; 04/24/24.
"The Church can and should help modern society by tirelessly insisting that the work of women in the home be recognized and respected by all in its irreplaceable value." Apostolic Exhortation On The Family, Pope John Paul II
What is that difference between the security six and the GP100?
The GP 100 is a beast
The SP101 is a small like a K-frame
Where does the security six fit in there
BMT
I've had a couple 4" GP100s along the way. For some stupid reason, I let them go. I do have a late model Security Six, it's a 4" HB (Heavy Barrel) model. The big differences I see is the GP100 has a different style grip frame, a heavier full length underlug, and an extra latch that secures the cylinder closed.
Other than that, the Security Six and the GP100 are very similar in overall size. The earlier Sec-Six had a slimmer barrel, and a slightly different grip frame shape.
"The Church can and should help modern society by tirelessly insisting that the work of women in the home be recognized and respected by all in its irreplaceable value." Apostolic Exhortation On The Family, Pope John Paul II
"The Church can and should help modern society by tirelessly insisting that the work of women in the home be recognized and respected by all in its irreplaceable value." Apostolic Exhortation On The Family, Pope John Paul II
I had a few things incorrect, got frustrated & deleted it all. But yeah, the SP between the J&K Smith, the Sec 6 about same as K Smith, & the GP about the same as L frame Smith.
Ruger’s ‘Six ‘ revolvers are very strong, long lasting trouble free designs. I’ve worked on quite a few when I was in the business and almost without exception had few serious problems. Compared to the S&W K frames which is comparably sized they are heavier a bit clunkier but Ruger’s designers eliminated many of Smiths weak points insuring longevity.
One thing I’ve found with all three of the ‘Six’ guns is the more you cycle them them the slicker the DA gets. I have two, a Security and Service Six and the latter is very smooth with a 8# DA pull through. Bought as a Boston PD turn in I have no idea how many rounds it’s seen but I have added about 25k stiff 357 loads through it so its count total is up there.
As a retired gunsmith who worked almost always on revolvers and 1911 platforms and shot my share of competition I prefer the K & L frame S&W’s. I find they fit me better and point/balance better at 6” and despite what anybody says are more accurate as are the older Colts. The GP100 is a bit heavier and is clunkier in the balance department but a sidearm made to last. You can’t slick them up like a Smith and their lock-time is slower but if you feel the need to play the spring game go for it. The Security like the Service and Speed Six have a trigger with sharp edges that screams reshape me. Not fun for you trigger finger in DA mode. But you can stage the trigger on these guns which with practice and muscle memory can be an asset for some shooters. So if it were me I’d grab that Security Six, dry fire it a bunch, try to range rod the gun for any alignment issues cause the Ruger can be a PITA to correct and if all is well enjoy
Back in the’70s, and into the ‘80s, some pistolsmiths were fitting Colt Python barrels to tuned Ruger D.A. revolvers, calling them “Cougers.”
That conversion was done on K-frame S&W’s also. Those who owned them swore they were the most accurate. I ransom rested one back in the early 80’s against my 14-3 and I can’t argue. Close but the Colt barrel got the cookie
svg250; Top of the morning, I hope that your part of Wisconsin is getting a decent spring and you're well.
With the understanding that I made the modifications decades back and have used it as it is since.
This came from a small gun shop in Oroville, WA, back in those halcyon pre 9/11 days when we were still able to buy firearms and components down there.
It was used but not much and came with the Bianchi holster. For the life of me I cannot recall what I paid for it, but I'd sold a very accurate Blackhawk and decided I might try some IPSC shooting at the local club level so this would do.
What I did to that one besides build the cosmetic stuff like build the grips, install the rib and build a different front sight was polish all the internals and yes, I believe I clipped at least one coil off of the mainspring. I might have also replaced another spring but might be wrong about that.
If I could get a spring kit, nowadays that's by far my preference just because I can always go back if something goes south with the modifications.
Is it as smooth as a S&W from that era?
No, not quite, but the polishing and the spring mod did smooth it out or at least my fingers thought so.
Hope that was useful to you or someone out there.
Good luck with your new project whichever way you decide.
Dwayne
OOOOOOOOOH that's nice. I have its sibling speed six. two .357 and one 9mm. Just need a .38 now. Great guns.
What is that difference between the security six and the GP100?
The GP 100 is a beast
The SP101 is a small like a K-frame
Where does the security six fit in there
BMT
I've had a couple 4" GP100s along the way. For some stupid reason, I let them go. I do have a late model Security Six, it's a 4" HB (Heavy Barrel) model. The big differences I see is the GP100 has a different style grip frame, a heavier full length underlug, and an extra latch that secures the cylinder closed.
Other than that, the Security Six and the GP100 are very similar in overall size. The earlier Sec-Six had a slimmer barrel, and a slightly different grip frame shape.
My Security Six,
I was going to ask the same question and we got the answer awesome thank you guys
Well, it's fascinating if you're really anal retentive and embrace your OCD.
Got a new2me Ruger Security Six a couple weeks ago to go along with a GP100 that I've had for several years. Never cottoned to the 4" GP100 (although it's a great revolver) but wanted something a little smaller and lighter. There was never anything wrong with the Security Six in my mind; a .357 similar in size and weight to a S&W K frame that was tough as a tank, but apparently Ruger wanted something even tougher. Anyway, since I had 5 minutes with nothing to do I measured the two to see how much "tougher" the GP100 is based on dimensions alone - not taking into account the different lockup. It really isn't that much bigger, most measurements only differ by one to a few hundredths, however it is 6 ounces heavier. The weight difference for the full underlug GP100 would of course be more.
The first figure is the Security Six/the second is the GP100
Weight 36.0 oz / 42.0 oz Height (trigger guard to topstrap) - 3.675" / 3.745" Length of frame - 4.510" / 4.60" Topstrap width - .685" / .685" Topstrap thickness - .230" / .270" Cylinder width - 1.50" / 1.545" Cylinder length - 1.62" / 1.610" - the GP100 is actually a tad shorter Width of frame over the forcing cone - .815" / .825"
As you can see there really isn't much difference, not even a tenth of an inch most anywhere.
I'm sure you're enthralled by all of this, huh?
Gunnery, gunnery, gunnery. Hit the target, all else is twaddle!
There is a difference in the action design as well but with advancing CRS I can't remember the specific differences. It has to do with the way the mainspring interacts with the trigger or something like that.
Anyway, the Security Six has the same lockwork as the Redhawk and the GP100 is the same as the Super Redhawk.
Gunnery, gunnery, gunnery. Hit the target, all else is twaddle!
I bought this one a long time ago. It is "Pre-Warning." It is very accurate. My wife would carry it when she was out taking a hike in the Sequoia Nat'l. Forest at our vacation cabin up in the Sierra. It also rested on the bedside table on her side of the bed at home. She shot it well. I've carried it quite a few times when out camping, hunting, hiking, etc. It's quite comfortable to carry. When I die, a good friend of mine will inherit it.
L.W.
"Always go straight forward, and if you meet the devil, cut him in two and go between the pieces." (William Sturgis, clipper ship captain, 1830s.)
When Ruger brought out the GP, they must have bragged about being thicker. Smith made an add.
Thanks for posting that. I don't recall seeing that one. I like Rugers, but find that humorous.
I will say, that I think I prefer my wife's 686 Plus, in comparison to my 6 shot GP100. But, if I were going to pistol whip BigFoot or drive tent stakes, I will go with the Ruger.
There is a difference in the action design as well but with advancing CRS I can't remember the specific differences. It has to do with the way the mainspring interacts with the trigger or something like that.
Anyway, the Security Six has the same lockwork as the Redhawk and the GP100 is the same as the Super Redhawk.
Okay, it seems the answers have been lost to antiquity (if 1985 qualifies as antiquity) but I finally found a mention of this difference.
Both revolvers lock at the rear of the cylinder as do Smiths and Colts and most all revolvers.
The Security Six uses a latch which engages the front of the ejector rod like S&W. It uses a single mainspring to power the hammer and the trigger return.
The GP100 uses a separate latch at the front of the crane and separate mainspring and trigger return springs.
I installed an 8 pound Wolff trigger return spring and 10 pound mainspring in the GP100 pictured above and the SA trigger now breaks consistently at 2 3/4 pounds. DA pull is somewhere over 8 pounds - that's as high as my RCBS gauge goes. I dare say it feels lighter with a more consistent pull weight throughout than my untuned K frame Smiths and a Colt Officers Model Match, the latter having a very stacking trigger.
Heresy, perhaps, but I'll stand on that statement. The mass of the GP100 certainly helps in keeping the sight picture undisturbed during the DA pull but I can just hit better with it in DA mode than my Smiths. To keep the Inquisition off my back I'll confess that the Smiths do have a cleaner SA pull with little or no overtravel, the Ruger has lots of it.
Which has nothing to do with a Security Six but I got on a roll here and couldn't stop.
Gunnery, gunnery, gunnery. Hit the target, all else is twaddle!
If no one else says it, I will. Thank you for posting all of that. I would really like to find a 4" GP100 or Security 6 at a decent price. I have a 6" and really like it, but at the moment I am without a 4" gun. It would be perfect for both load development, velocity testing and range use, as well as some carry. If I ever find a really good deal on one I likely will pick one up.
THE CHAIR IS AGAINST THE WALL.
The Tikka T3 in .308 Winchester is the Glock 19 of the rifle world.
I used to shoot a lot of the Lyman 358429, 168 bullets. The GP & K frame Smith has enough cyl. length to allow them to be crimped in the crimping groove in 357 cases. The N frame Smith has a shorter cyl, or did.
OK, got off my dead arse & went down stairs to measure.
GP Match Champion, cyl. length 1.615. Dia. at the rear is 1.546" note I said measured at the rear, because the MC cyl. has an O.D. taper toward the front.
I ended up ordering a spring kit from wolff for the security 6, should be receiving it this week, the gun shoots great as is, but will be nice to lighten the double action pull.
One thing that can really help the double action is to hone the channel that the trigger return spring rides in. I take a tight fitting brass or stainless brush and run it in and out while chucked in a drill, can also use a small dowel with a little 440 sand paper wrapped around it, free chopsticks from the Chinese restaurant work good. It's the most missed area of an action job, but there are always a lot of machining marks in that channel that the spring runs in. Same with the Sp101 and Gp100. Oh, and when putting the trigger guard back in place keep the palm of your hand away from the two halves, the fit is so tight it can grab the skin when snapping shut, ask me how I know. They're great guns, I think I'm up to a bakers dozen in snubbies and 4 inch models in the speed six and security 6.
I had a 4" GP100 but it felt like an anchor in my hand. Absolutely nothing wrong with it but for me the Security 6 is the epitome of being strong and feels just right. YMMV
I had a 4" GP100 but it felt like an anchor in my hand. Absolutely nothing wrong with it but for me the Security 6 is the epitome of being strong and feels just right. YMMV
Agreed. I have no clue why they felt the need to drop the Speed/Security/Service Six line in favor of a heavier duty gun. My very first handgun, back in 1980, was a snub nosed Speed Six .357 Magnum. Still have it.
I had a 4" GP100 but it felt like an anchor in my hand. Absolutely nothing wrong with it but for me the Security 6 is the epitome of being strong and feels just right. YMMV
Agreed. I have no clue why they felt the need to drop the Speed/Security/Service Six line in favor of a heavier duty gun. My very first handgun, back in 1980, was a snub nosed Speed Six .357 Magnum. Still have it.
One of the dumbest things I ever did was give my BIL my snub-nosed speed six. That was a great revolver, especially for shooting CCI 38 special shotshells when I was in cotton-mouth territory (which was quite often in my neck of the woods).
I have a very nice 6” stainless Security Six. Pulling the trigger is like working the handle on a bumper jack even after installing reduced weight springs. I like the pistol, but the trigger needs some work.
Expat
Last edited by ExpatFromOK; 04/29/24.
"There are no dangerous weapons. There are only dangerous men." - Robert Heinlein