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COYOTE 101....

Knowing where to set a trap is number one important..I pick a small knoll where the breezes will take scent a long ways and coyotes like small knolls btw, they sit and watch the area for movement...

I used only Ocelot urine for bait, it works better than coyote urine,even from a female in heat...you can buy an Ocelot and put him in wire bottom cage and catch his stools and urine in the bottom in a flat cookie sheet pan...soak the stools in urine and put them in a plastic bag. you can also buy it but I don't know where anymore.

Smoke your traps, overalls, gloves, and over shoes or boil them in mesquite or greasewood water, or whatever strong odor wood you have. scent left on a trap or in the area is bad. I use a 15x4 tarp to roll out to my trap sets. Its boiled also..

Bury your trap, I like a no. 4 newhouse with a 10 ft. drag chain and steel treeble hook. the chain and hook are to be buried under the trap with a pad of dirt (about and inch) over it and packed very level, then lay trap on top of the dirt pad, with arms folder back after setting it, and put a ground cloth under one jaw and over the trigger and under the other jaw. This leaves a air space under the trap trigger, Set the trigger very light. Now using a flour sifter, sift dirt over the trap or traps and just enough to cover them. I use two or three sets in a triangle. now lay the uringe soaked terd in the center of the traps with some light stuff around it, make it look natural, always make a set look natural and undestrubed. BTW, always work with a jaw folded over so that you are working under the trap, that way you won't have to learn how to drive back to the house with both hands caught in a trap, its painfull and with both hands trapped there is not getting loose without help!

coyotes are the hardest animal to trap I know of and they actually speak fluent English, Spanish and Russian, some speak several oriental dialects and Swahili but were too dumb to know that!!!

Well, thats a start, lots of other tricks but you will have to learn them from experience. I filed the trigger sets very square and sharp on my traps and set them light as a coyote can jump and beat a sluggish trap..The drag will allow him to travel up to 50 or so yards and he won't eat his foot off or pull free if you only catch toes.

I have run as many as 200 traps at one time on our Big Bend ranch in Texas when coyotes were bringing big bucks and Bob cat were bringing $600.

Tip: mix your bobcats with Northern Lynx, and sell them that way..buyers cannot tell a young Lynx from a bobcat..I sold them like that for years..Just a tip since I don't trap anymore...:)

My dad and my uncle were pretty famous in their own right as trappers of preditory Mt. Lions and coyotes that became a problem and they were great trappers, cowboys, hunters and made a living ranching for the most part..I was fortunate to have grown up under such conditions..

I had a 3 footed coyote that I tried to catch for 4 or 5 years and when I finally caught ole Joe in a double triangle set, I released him out of respect and never could catch him again. I saw him some years later. I knew it was him because he had a gunshot scarred hip and of course the missing paw..He was pretty thin and delapadated and just standing in the road about 25 ft. away. I shot and burried him on the ranch with a marker on his grave. If you trap coyotes long enough, you will develope a lot of respect for them..They can be brilliant.

And that is how to trap coyotes using methods and traps from the 1930's.

You must admit it was good entertainment though.........

Coyotes are wary, not super human.

RO

Funny how complicated some guys can make a simple task.

Catch a male fox, then make a charred scent post set in the catch circle.



Caught this one (my first) then caught two yotes in the same place in the next three days.

Rotten eggs in a dirthole works good for me.

Thanks to all for the ideas and advise so far. I'm almost a month into our season and am having a pretty good start so far.

Raccoons - 26
Opossums - 14
Grey Foxes - 9
Red Foxes - 1
Coyotes - 4

Today was a pretty good run with only six sets out I nabbed 4 greys and a coyote. So far I've had only one miss and that was early on with a coyote and I figured out that it was my fault in that I hadn't properly set my trigger pressure and it was way too heavy. I've not re-set in that area and may go back later with a different kind of set and give it a try again.

One of my good mornings.

[img][IMG]http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x32/lfvfd439/100_27292.jpg[/img][/img]

Funny how some guys know so much but fail to add anything to the conversation if they have a better method, I would like to know what it is? I know mine works and I suspect the trappers from the 1930s knew a thing or two..Maybe you guys just have stupid coyotes that havn't been hunted by plane, snared, shot at, trapped and been punched off center by a cynide gun!

Coytote Basics:

-#2 or #3 coilspring trap, dyed & waxed or dipped, with swivels and strong chain set-up and the pans properly adjusted
- 1/2" rebar stakes of a length suitable for the type of soil one traps in ** Long chains and drags are effective in some situations but as a rule are a lot more work than they are worth. Usually only used in ground too soft to hold a stake or deep snow situations, in both cases enough cover must be present to catch the drag on.

-Coyote or fox urine is all that is needed in the way of urine (no need to keep exotic cats in order to collect their urine), adding some gland lure to the urine can be a big help. Put it in a spray bottle and spray the set down with a mist when complete.

-Dirt holes and flat sets are simple, effective sets, there is no need for all kinds of fancy sets. Throw in a urine post, hay set, and some snares for a change up.

-Solidly bedded traps are one of the most importantant aspects of a good set.

-Set 2-3 sets per location and catches will increase, particularly in the early season (pre dispersal) and during the mating season.

-Cover the pan with any of the many different pan covers or with wool or foam under the pan - just make sure that whatever you use does not have a smell on it that causes digging at the trap. Same goes for the trap, keep them clean and aired out.

-Set traps roughly 6-8" from the hole or backing and slightly to one side or the other

-A good tainted meat bait can be helpful with a dirt hole but the key is having several good lures, using different lures at each location. A good tip is to write down what lure was used at each set so as not to change smells after a catch is made or when re-luring.

-Look for sign and set near it, placing your sets on the upwind side of the sign taking into account the prevailing wind direction.

-Bottom line is that a clean trap that is well bedded in the right location will make catches.

Ranger1,
If you don't mind, I will continue to do it my way, apparantly Montana has some dumb coyotes that have not been trapped for a hundred years...and since you have never tried my way then how the hell do you know if it works or doesn't..Little closed minded arn't you.

But thinks for the long winded post and right out of the books lesson, I don't like rude behaviour and don't normally dish it out, but you tossed the first knife with your know it all remarks..

Ray, chill, dude.......There are other ways, too. Mayhaps, YOU are the one that needs to try something just a little more modern. Dyed and waxed traps (or dipped) beat the smoked ones hands down. I'd bet that if you lost the setting tarp, your numbers would be about the same. And as to the ocelot....well, who wants the hassle of milking a cat for piss? Coyote turds with coyote pee does the same thing. As to trap choice, the newhouses are nice. But unnecessary. They do nothing that a whole bunch of others do, too. And I, for one, disagree with the light trigger stance. A good 3 to 4 lb trigger keeps sets from being tripped by packrats and cottontails. The upside is,the toe catches you mention, are almost eliminated. Pad catches rule.... As far as catching both hands in a #4 NH, and not being able to release yerseff without help, my goodness man, do you not have 2 feet to step on the springs with?.... The sluggish traps you mention, musta had real weak springs, because the trip weight has nuthin to do with jaw speed...... Tell us your fur buyers name. We all need to sell 'cats to him, as any buyer worth his salt, can dam sure tell the diff, atween lynx and a bob(no matter WHAT age) Please post a copy of the cancelled check on those $6oo texas cats, while you're helping us out. I gotta admit, that statement pegged out my BS-o-meter. Do you have any idea what 200 #4 NH's are worth today? Put a flower on ol' Joes grave next time you visit, from your buds at the 'fire. Don

I don't mind a conversation, but he is the one that attacked. I am willing to discuss anything about trapping and tell you why I do things a certain way, and I am willing to listen and take note, why should I listen to tripe.

Waxed traps work, but with an old dog, the smell of something familiar is far better IMO, thus in the dessert I like to boil traps in Greasewood...

You will also have greater success with Ocelot piss, all you have to do is put a pan under his wire cage, and it works better than female coyote pisss in heat...Have you tried it..

I used Newhouse traps because with a drag if a Lion steps in one and makes that big jump he won't explode the Newhouse trap with a drag as the trap will go with him..That first big jump will trash most traps and any trap that is tied.

I never liked tieing a trap because the animals ate their foot off as soon as the foot went numb and I only checked my traps about every other day, my main business was ranching.

I sold my furs to David Adams and that was about 1974 when furs were very high, and again you must be wrong as we sold bobcats mixed with the Lynx and never got challanged one time.

My traps didn't have a sluggish springs, but the Newhouse had deep trigger notches and I either filed them down or set them on the edge.

My BS meter pegs out also, when you come up with you can stand on a #4 Newhouse and release it, that will screw up you and your fingers..Try it before you talk and I have no idea what Newhouse traps cost today.

Anyway, a couple of you just want to flame, as opposed to discuss different ways of doing things, and that tells me your more town boy trappers and internet experts, so I will leave this thread to you to flame away..I have no use for this type of conversations.

Ray, Ray Ray....... You really need to get a new BS-o-meter....(and a life) I just happen to have a #14 NH, which is the equivalent of a #4. But more better for the occasional lion you seem to target. The teeth on these babies HOLD......

Here I am, in the comfort of my living room, finding myself accidently caught by BOTH hands.....ouch-oooch-ouch-oooch-ouch.....

Next thing I know, voila! I am free,free,free......Must not have been the power of my own size 10's, but the power of god and his legions of angels that I was so miraculously released to live to trap another day.....

Kinda knocked THAT theory outta the water, huh?
I also kinda recall, that the peak 'cat prices were in the early 80's. You are only one decade off..... Alzhiemers?
Again, I ask for proof of the $600 dollar texas cats you mentioned. I always believed that if ya made a statement, you should be able to back it up. The other thing I'm wondering is, where did the illustrious Mr. Adams get all the texas lynx's to mix them bob's in with? Another of your experiences sure don't mesh with my experience(yup, the ol' chew the foot off deal) The majority of my trapping was done before the mandatory check laws. Never ONCE lost a canine to a chewed off foot, even on weekly run horseback lines. Coon, tho, is a different tale..... Now Ray ol' buddy, I ain't flaming here. I am simply proving yer azz wrong and asking ya to back up your own statements......Don

Internet BS at its best...you gotta be one fat assed big boy to do that in the field, now go try it on the side of a mountain as opposed to your computer room floor and try it when the trap has just slammed on your fingers, whole different ball game. Then try driving to the house to get it off, that's tricky..If you never lost an animal in a trap your just flaming and the BS has gotten to deep on your part.

Why should I try to find receipts from 1973? to prove anything to you, get real... but if any of you get down this way, and want to spend a day with me out setting traps your invited, maybe you would learn something, and maybe not...

Maybe my methods are old, but sometimes the old ways are better, and I have been in the hunting, fishing, ranching, business all over the world for over 50 years and started trapping when I was about 10 or 15 years old..You can learn a lot in 73 years, but you can only teach those willing to learn...I take pride in a trap set and I do go the extra mile, as oppose to sticking a trap out there and putting a bait on it like I was trapping mice in the house, but I'm wasting my time here feeding trolls...

Wow! All I can really say Ray. Your methods are antiquated and a lot of what you say is total BS. Why don't you admit that you spoke of things that you know little about and start a topic that you do have a little experience with.

"you gotta be one fat assed big boy to do that in the field"

I'll try to remember to gain a bunch-o-weight before I head up the side of a mountain. My meager 135 lb. frame just don't seem to have any trouble setting (or just compressing springs) on ANY newhouse under a #5, without anything to help, but my hands and feet (you fail to acknowledge my astounding feat of daring-do, PROVEN in the pics above) . But I am a real weeny, and have to cheat on a #5 or #6.......

Holy smokes.....how did you find the time to trap??

Fact: If a human was at a set, a coyote will know about it. A tarp ain't gonna fool your average house dog, let alone a yote.
Clean gear and spend as little time as needed to make a quality set.


Gee whiz, sure hope no one has spilled the beans to NAFA.
What did you do with the longer ear tufts and legs on the lynx, to confuse the buyers, not to mention the different tail and belly markings????
The more perplexing question though is, where the he11 in Texas were you trapping "Northern Lynx", to mix with your bobcats?????


Huntsman pretty much blew that one out of the water, or more fittingly, the BULLSHITT.


I suppose you buried him with his hide on, out of respect as well.
Coyotes are wary, NOT brilliant.......big difference.


Last time I checked, NAFA wasn't paying any more $ for "smart" coyotes. I guess I'll just have to be happy trapping more of the "dumb" ones. B.C. coyotes must be from the same stock as the ones in MT.

Your "supposed" trapping methods are akin to sneaking up on a glass of water.........very telling. :GRIN:

If you still have doubts, regarding the feedback you received here, head over to Trapperman.com or Sullivansline.com and espouse your vast knowledge to Paul Dobbins and Hal Sullivan. I'm sure they could use a good laugh as well.......

RO

Where can I buy an Ocelot? [serious] I'm surprised the lynx lure wouldn't bring em in.

Ray, I've got to be straight up with you, no disrespect intended, but when I first read your original post about smoking your gear, tarps, ocelot urine and number four Newhouses for coyotes I thought you were joking around. There is nothing anyone can do to conceal the fact from a canine that a human was in the area. The important thing, as someone noted, is don't have any scent on the trap that will get the coyote digging the trap and not the bait. Coyote trapping is real simple: the right trap (I prefer the MB650C)clean so they won't dig it, bedded right (solid) and located where they'll hit it when they work the dirt hole or whatever kind of attraction is used. It has to be fasten so it holds them. I like no more than six inches of chain staked to the longest re-bar stake I can get in at the site. Sometimes cable stakes. The trap has to be functional when the coyote arrives. In our area that means anti-freezing the set and waxing the trap with refined beeswax and parafine mixed or acrylic floor wax so the calcium chloride doesn't eat up the trap. Location is a big part of the battle. Despite what some of the lure makers claim, you're not going to get a coyote to go half a mile out of his way to your set. I'm a big believer in keep it simple. I'm convinced that some of those long, involved procedures have saved a lot of coyotes and foxes over the years because they kept the trappers so tied up they didn't have time to get a lot of sets out there. Anybody remember the "spring-hole set"?

My old trapping partner when he and I were trapping Coyotes in Michigans Upper Peninsula 35 years ago.

The old man and I the following winter with some of our winter fox catch.