Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Africa Mercury Recoil Reducers - which one to go with?

Just inherited a schitzenkicker loudenboomer 458WM and if I decide to keep it, I'm definitely going to have a recoil tube added to the stock backed up with a new Decelerator.

Not having done this before, I'd appreciate some brand & size recommendations on mercury tubes to buy, or even recommendations on ones to avoid.

thanks!

FWIW, (excluding muzzle brakes) I've come across 3 types of recoil reducer. Mercury tube, which I have in my rifles, the tungsten bead version as fitted in the blaser rifles and the oil and piston version. - All have worked very well indeed, but because they were all fitted into different rifles and calibres, it's really impossible to make any kind of realistic comparitive analysis.

That said, the oil and piston version was the only one that was completely silent when the rifle was tipped up or down.

Whatever one you have fitted, it's essential that it's fitted absolutely correctly. If it's done wrong, it's possible for the stock to split. - I've seen that happen to two clients rifles. - One of those was in a brand new Sauer and it happened in the middle of the Selous on about day 2 of the guy's hunt. - Luckily I had a spare rifle he could use..............

I have a Mercury filled recoil reducer on my lightweight Benelli SBE 3 1/2 inch magnum 12ga goose gun. Works great. I do not remeber the brand, but mine is slent and I bought it from Lock Stock and Barrel company. + 1 on getting it fitted correctly, bedded in with Brownells steel bed would be a good idea.

I like the Limbsaver pads better than the declerator. Very soft and effective.

Congrats on an big bore rifle add to your collection. What action type, Model etc?

I made the mistake of "home installing" a mercury recoil reducer. I drilled the hole, stuck the reducer in, plugged the hole with a dowl and put the recoil pad back on. Two shots into testing the backing plate of the recoil pad cracked from the reducer moving backward. To get the reducer in I had had to tap it with a mallet because the fit was so tight: the recoil moved it anyway. If I had to do it over again, I would have it professionally fitted. It took the better part of a day to carve out the reducer and fit a new recoil pad.

The other home remedy I tried, on the other hand, worked great. I used about 1/2 lb of lead shot mixed with epoxy to fill the forearm of my 458's stock; it really redued muzzle rise and actually helped balance the gun, which had been butt- heavy before.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll be talking to Rick the gunsmith today about it.

The rifle is a M70, it's old (like late 50's or early 60's), and wears a lot of carry miles on it, tho I understand not a lot of rounds have been sent down the tube. I'll have to run down the serial number to nail the exact year.

My recoil tolerance is pretty much a 400 grainer @ 2100 from my 450/400 NE 3" #1, so if I decide to keep this WM I'll have to come up with a recoil management plan...

Load 405gr cast bullets over 2400 or Trailboss powder, these are very light loads that are great for getting accustomed to the rifle.

Dead Mule mercruy recoil reducer from Brownell's.

I have one in my .450 #2 NE.

Dead Mules don't kick!

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I don't see why you would bother with one for a .458.

You will (or should be) shooting very few shots from the bench. Wear a thick pad when you do. Most of your practicing should be offhand, and dry firing is the best way to train your eye-hand-rifle coordination anyway. When firing live ammo make sure you grasp the rifle hard with both hands and have it tight into your shoulder. Your scope should have good eye relief (such as Leupold's 1.5-5) and be installed as far forward as you can get it without vignetting.

I do this and have no more problem than with my .300 Weatherby. In fact, the Weatherby is worse because, in my normal offhand position, the bolt hits my trigger finger knuckle.

You will only be shooting a very few shots at game. Don't sweat the recoil.

Oh...something very important...make sure you're a reasonably good shot with lower recoiling centerfire frifles, down to and including the .223.

Finally, contrary to popular opinion, small and skinny guys do not have more trouble with recoil than big fat guys. In fact, they can bend at the waste and "go with the flow" easier because the recoil has less mass to move.

Well, I decided to punt on this question and did a little trading with the gunsmith. He'll be building my next F-class stick in 6.5mm whatever on a 40X action.

Now I just gotta decide between the Grendel, Lapua, Creedmore, or 260 Rem...

I had one put in by CZ in my 375 H&H, first for balance (my CZ would've been way too muzzle heavy for me without it) and second I plan to go up in caliber eventually. I don't hear it or feel it (except for it improving the balance), it just does what it's supposed to do.