Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Backpack Hunting Installing stoves in ShangriLa tipi's

I know Ed T has done it, and I know there's at least one other guy around here as well...

I'm assuming you guys are using TiGoat's stove jack?

How about a photo-tutorial for the masses???



Or is there somebody that can do it for a guy for $$$?

1. Procure stove jack from TiGoat
2. Erect SL, in my case, a SL4+
3. Position jack on wall opposite door, a few inches below the seam between mosquito netting and silnylon. I put mine on the wall's vertical centerline.
4. Evaluate mocked-up position from outside. Golite's little "hood" over the vent should just cast a shadow over the top seam of the jack, to prevent water from pooling on that top side of the jack.
5. Mark corner locations of the jack on silnylon with sharpie
6. Inquire of prominent local Anchorage tentmaker as to whether they'll install the jack for you. When they ask "is your tent made of fire resistant material" and you laugh and answer "No, hence, the stove jack" and the conversation goes downhill from there, regroup.
7. Visit asian seamstress with plain description of what you're after. Be prepared to draw a picture. I drew where I wanted stitching on the back of the stove jack in silver sharpie, and she smiled, nodded, and told me to come back in three days. TiGoat sends a template of how big a hole to cut. It's oval in shape, about 8" x 6" on the oval dimensions. I used this as a pattern for my silver sharpie and she ran an oval shaped continuous stitch just outside of where I'll cut the oval hole in the wall. Also, she stitched the perimeter of the jack to the wall. Tough to describe...
8. Return in three days to find a perfectly sewn jack. Cut oval hole in wall material, cut stovepipe hole for 3" stovepipe (TiGoat provides the cut lines for stovepipe hole), and go hunting.

Orrrrrrr,
I got a Vertex 5 from Ti goat with the stove jack installed
Don

I located mine on the side of the tent near the seam where the door/vestibule starts and just about as high as I could. It is probably better located in the vent as Ed T has done, but my seamstress had never worked with silylon before and this made for easier sewing. I was on a budget and her work was free and involved no shipping. Since I my SL-6 cost me $350 and at the time I was using a homemade stove that cost me $65 and a jack that I already had (bought for another project that never happened from one of the guys from Ti-goat years ago before they started the company), this put me in a good sized heated shelter that was financially feasible for me. Ti's stove jack is probably the quickest way to go for that piece. although I'm pretty sure Kifaru used to sell them as well. The one do-over I wish I had was cutting the fire-proof material. I accidentally made a long cut for my initial X so be careful on that.

Although I'm sure that much like a Kifaru tipi, a Vertex is a lovely shelter, one of comparable size (looks like the SL-6 is almost mid-way between a Vertex 6.5 and 8, closer to the 6.5) costs a bit more. There are also some space advantages to the Shangri-Las (the 6 and 8 anyway) over tipis. You can use the entire square footage because the sides guy out and you can actually sleep right next the walls if necessary without touching them. The height of a tipi is measured right at that center pole and slopes down sharply from there so "standing room" is a bit misleading. The height of the SLs is also measured at the poles and there is a slight downward slope to the roof line but you essentially have that height for the length of the roof between the doors. I have slept four adults with gear comfortably in my 6. It is a palace for two guys. The quality is excellent and Golite offers fantastic customer service even if you have a problem due to user error. Down side is that you need to guy them out to get the best, most bombproof pitch and the stake loops that are adjustable don't allow for a "to the ground" pitch. Easily rectified with sewing in a few fixed loops at those spots when you're having that stove jack sewn in. They also really need more stakes than they come with.

Finally and in answer to the original question, I have instructions if anyone wants them. I'm going to try to scan them so I can quit faxing. My wife hasn't enjoyed my long distance bill from all the times I've already done it. PM me your email and I'll get it out when I can (not guaranteeing a 24 hour turn around).

I ended up buying some fire-proof tarp material online (I actually might have some left over if it hasn't been thrown away that you can have for shipping...) after I couldn't get Ti-Goat to respond to my requests to purchase the stove jack and stove pipe (long story). Anyway, I just cut a 18"x18" square of the material and hand-sewed it into the shelter next to the door - has worked pretty well. By the way, ended up going with a Kifaru para-stove and have been real happy with it. I originally made a little cylinder stove out of a stainless canister, but had real issues with getting a stove pipe, but really think the Kifaru design is the bee's knees...

Oh and here's a picture of mine:

I'm a bit of a hack but I sewed the stovejack onto the flat silnylon wall and then cut the hole in the middle of the nylon afterwards.

I doesn't allow a neat looking sewn seam in the silnylon but it sure makes it hard to screw up and the heavy material of the stovejack takes the loads so it wont rip on the uneven cut.

As mentioned above it's very easy to cut the hole for the stove pipe to large so go slow and I would also mark how you want the stovejack oriented with a sharpie while the shelter is setup otherwise it can end up pretty crooked! "still works great though"

After a failed attempt at sewing a Tigoat stove jack in my Origami I got a tube of Silicone II and just glued it in place. It has worked perfectly for two years now.

Here's a dumb question...

Say you want to use the same tent in the spring, when its warmer (don't need a stove), and rainy? Is there a good way to cover the hole that'll keep you dry?

I'm really liking my SL3. its about perfect for one guy and loads of crap and a stove. I'm seriously thinking about an SL4 for a two man set up (with loads of crap of course)

I sewed the jack into the back vent. Then used the eyebrow of the vent with the golite logo as a cover for non-stove use. Sewed velcro around the rim of the jack seam to hold what was the eyebrow.

I thought Ed_T did something fancy like somehow cutting back the eyebrow but leaving it in place.

The stove jack I bought has a roll down sil-nylon flap that velcros in place to keep the wet out when you're not using a stove.

The TiGoat flavor has a cover flap, like this...

With both cover flaps up. Tow-Mater not included.



With the little rain flap down. You can see how it would fall around the stove pipe. The jack came with a cut out marked for the correct size.



With the sil-nylon cover velcroed in place. It'll (in theory) keep the rain out in the summer.

Groovy...

That answers that Now next time I'm moneyed up, I guess its time to call TiGoat and get a C-Stove and jack coming.


I also like the idea of stitched in loops to get a low pitch (instead of the adjustable ones that come in it.)

When I bought my ti-goat cylinder stove I also bought a stove jack. With the stove he sent an extra piece of the jack material(I am not sure why). I couldnt decide where to put the jack so I used the extra piece and made a jack that fits the vent at the top of my sh-la 4. I cut out the netting, and I cut off the vent and reused it as a removable cover that velcros in place and has the golite logo. I like how it turned out because I didnt have to mess with any of the seams and it looks normal when the cover is in place. Also I still have the jack I bought that I can put into something else. I will try and get some pics if anyone wants.

I would be most grateful for a picture of your stove jack setup and any more details that you may have. This is my new summer project.

Thank you much.

Conrad

Here's one version of what mod7rem describes. I also like this mod as it does not mess with the seams. I chose to have the stove in back, I don't remember why, maybe because I thought that back wall seemed to have more stability? It works out fine for myself and my son.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b24/huskyrunnr/stoverun/DSC01284.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b24/huskyrunnr/stoverun/DSC01285.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b24/huskyrunnr/stoverun/DSC01286.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b24/huskyrunnr/stoverun/DSC01287.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b24/huskyrunnr/stoverun/DSC01288.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b24/huskyrunnr/stoverun/DSC01289.jpg

OK, now I'm tracking. Which way do you face the stove? I assume it must be 90 degrees to the door to not hit the pole?

Do you have any inside shots with the stove in?

Dave,

Yeah, I cut down the eyebrow, but it was a real PITA. If I ever did another SL 6 I do like Chris did.

i sewed a tigoat stove jack into my msr trekker tarp. sewed in in with a speedy sticher http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___21788.

took about 2 hours to complete the sewing job the tigoat stove jack i purchased came with a removable nylon cover that can be installed when the stove is not use its prefectly waterproof. my stove shown here was gleaned from txtrapper's idea built from a 1 gallon coleman gas can. its a wood heated shelter on the cheap. i had around 60 bucks in the setup when done. the most difficult thing is bringing yourself to cut a hole in your perfectly good tent, but the benefits are worth it in the end.

here are some pics
pics

stove pic

To those who have done this;
Does it make the stove pipe less stabile to run it through the side wall? It appears most guys run it somewhere near the center pole- for stability [?] or the possiblility of wrapping a wire to center pole? Or convenience?

Does anyone worry about the stove burning your sleeping bag?