Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Sako Optilock's vs. Talley Quick Release

I had major problems with the Warnes on a Sako as the dovetail acted like a wedge and kept driving the mounts apart under recoil. As this sort of design relies 100% on the screws for its holding power, the screws kept stripping allowing the scope to move under recoil. Tried two different sets before switching to Optilocks and have had no further problems.

Pete E, That's a good point about the Warnes, I had not thought about that before. This would also be a design fault of the Leupold Sako rings.

The Talley Sako system uses a separate base that goes over the dovetails and then thier rings clamp onto the separate base. They wouldn't have the problem of wedging open but I didn't really care for the separate base and it's screws going into the crosshatching on top of the dovetails. On the other hand I do have some friends that are Sako lovers that do prefer the Talley's on them and I consider their opinions just as valid as mine.

I do like Talley's a lot but I'm with you - it's Optilocks on Sako's......................DJ

dj,

At one time, didn't you have a post about moving the Opti-Lok bases forward and back on the dovetail to get windage travel centered???

The Sako Optilocks certainly come with instructions to that effect, but I've never really followed exactly what they were on about.

With the cross hairs centred in the scope, I've been lucky to find that the rifle was approximately zero'd after just snugging the bases on the rail with no special adjustment..

Thanks Pete, and where did you buy your Stainless low ringmounts? I can't seem to locate any.........547.

I don't think the ringmounts are available in stainless in the USA.

It appears the Optiloc ring-mounts in general are like rocking horse sh1t...I have never seen them on sale in a gunsmiths over here, although lots of places stock the seperate bases and rings by Optiloc.

To get mine, I contacted the British importer, established they were in stock, and then got my local gun shop to order them for me; probably took about a week.

Why they are not more available, I don't know as they are an excellent bit of kit...

Be aware of the 34mm Optilock rings though as they don't use the plastic inserts as the other Optilocs do...

pete,

Do you think the ringmounts hold as strong as the Opti-Loks bases w/rings?

The actual way they grip the dovetails is pretty much the same, but the ring-mounts do away with the joint (and potential failure point) where on the seperates, the rings are screwed to the bases..

I was wondering cause I have a Sako 75 in 300 RUM that needs some rings. My Sako dealer has the blued ringmounts available, but no stainless. Would love to find some stainless low ringmounts!! ( As would alot of Sako shooters!!).

Is the SS a big issue? If I couldn't get SS ring-mounts, I still prefer to go with the blued version rather than the seperate rings and bases...For me reliability trumps cosmetics...If you want the SS for their rust resistance, you could always get the blued version duracoated or sprayed...

The Talley vs. Optilock trade off is as follows -

Pro / Con

Weight - Talley's are lighter than Opti's

Ring style -
Talley's - Two piece ring to base with a weaver type connectino.
Optilock - Two piece with a Single large screw connection.

From a "kick" point of view I think the Opti's have a slight advantage however they are also prone to loosing more than the talleys so it's a wash. - If you use Opti's make sure you put locktite on the screw that holds the ring to the base.


Ring to Scope connection
Talley's - 4 screw vertically split ring, all steel, thin but very strong, sharp but clean edges.
Optis - 4 screw horizontally split ring, with and alignment bushing (plastic), steel rings with softer metal screws.

Talleys take if from a strength perspective, but if your not careful that strength can leave marks on your scope - I advise lapping the rings. The Opti's auto align due to the bushings, but you have to be careful and slow to torque with the screws they provide that are softer than your used to. Make sure your allen key is all the way in or you could stretch the heads.

Base to Rifle connection
Talley - Dove tails that secure via set screws that extend down through the mount to the top of the Sako action.
Optilock - Dovtails that secure via a massive block / clamp with a heavy screw that "pinches" the action dovetail itself.

Here the Opti lock has a better configuration. When using the talley you have to be VERY careful you don't mark up the top of the Sako Action as the Talley's have set screws that pressure that push the mount up off the action by the set screw pushing down on top of the sako's metal. The best way to avoid marking up the action is to put a #6 shot in the screw hole and then tighten it up which flattens out the shot and hopefully keeps you from marking up the action. Some guy's don't care about it, personally I do.

Summary -
You can make either set work as long as you take your time. Both hold great.

Personally I feel that with the talley you get great ring to scope strength in the mount, and the Opti provides great rifle to base strength. I went with Optis because of they don't mark up scopes, and they don't mark up the rifle checking on top of the action. So as long as you can weather using the soft optilock screws (so far I have) I think it's a better configuration.

BTW - I've been working with a guy to make replacement screws. If he ever starts selling them I'll put a link so everyone can get them.

Spot

Good post Spot!!!


Pete,

I know its cosmetic, but really want to match up my stainless rifle with stainless mounts. I already have a Near Mfg rail for this rifle, but I don't think I want to drill and tap this receiver. I did it on a custom rifle I had built, but this is a "semi- custom" and not sure how perfect the barrel run-out is on a factory Sako barreled action??

Here is a pic of my custom Sako 75 with the Near Mfg rail & rings instralled on it:

FWIW, one of our local smiths had come across a couple M-75 Actions so he went ahead and made the tooling to set up the actions for trueing up like he would have to do for a 700 or M-70. Turned out that every one he tried was dead nuts on. Can't say that every one is that way but they typically are very good indeed......................................DJ

I actually learned about the windage adjustment on one of these forums. Basically start with an Optically centered scope. (Hold the scope objective flat against a mirror and adjust the crosshairs until they match the shadow reticle). Install the scope in the rings but leave the front screws loose. While boresighting slide the front ring back and forth until you get the reticle centered boresighted, then tighten up the screws. Usually it will be somewhere around the middle of the front dovetail.

If you don't care for the ring location on the front dovetail you can try switching between long and short action bases. The difference between the two is the location of the mounting hole for the ring. - Having the separate bases with 2 different ring locations is another selling point for the Optilocks, it adds versatility in your ring location on your scope and can help you mount your rings more optimally close to the objective..............................................DJ

dj,

My smith that did my custom also stated that Sako's are usally pretty damn square & true. I just don't want to take the risk of drilling & tapping the receiver, then have alot of barrel run-out. This would eat up alot of travel in my scope, which doesn't have much to begin with (Schmidt&Bender).

I like the Opti-Loks, just want to try to have my scope sighted in with a 200 yd zero and be as close to mechanical center as possible.

So, by moving the front scope base/ring forward or back you can gain some windage travel, correct??

Appreciate the help guys!!!

I have the Optilock ringmounts on two of my Sako's.I put extra low blue ones on my 85 Finnlight with a silver VX3 2.5-8X38.They fit and look great.I have lows on my 75 Stainless Hunter with a 3-9X40 Conquest,same.I don't know where some people get there information but they are rock solid.Many times last weekend I carried my Finnlight using the scope like a handle on an AR.I managed to kill an eight point Whitetail.The first deer I saw was down with one shot,through the heart at 80 yards.I just stripped it down for a cleaning and everything was tight as a drum.
BTW I got mine (extra low)on Gunbroker for $110 from Bolsa Gunsmithing in CA.

yup..........dj

Thanks!!!

I think I would try the drill and tap method if I could find the right smith and he could do me a two piece Weaver type base system. I don't currently own a Sako centerfire rifle because of their cheesy clamp on scope mounting system, though I'm finding it very hard to stay away from Sako quality, I'm a huge fan of Sako rifles and I love the latest Mod 85 the best of all, but I can't get past their scope mounting system, I'd like to see some Sako rifles that have been drilled and tapped and talk to a good smith on this subject.....................547.