Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles What is the proper way to glass bed a mauser 98

HI everybody i have glassed some remington 700s before but never a mauser 98 i was wondering were should it be glassed in the lug area or in the whole action or what. thankyou for your help.

Tang, receiver area and about two inches in front of the recoil lug. Free float the rest of the way. Make sure you have a stock ferrule for the rear screw to prevent crushing the wood:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=983/Product/MAUSER_98_STOCK_FERRULES

I don't like to bed any portion of the barrel ahead of the receiver unless I am putting a pressure point at the tip.
On a 98, I like to glue a bushing into the rear guard screw hole or use a steel pillar. The mauser doesn't have a lot of tang area.
Taping the bottom of the recoil lug is optional. Clearance here doesn't hurt and may help.
You should end up with about .010" clearance between the mag box and the receiver. GD

You should glass the rear of the recoil lug, but mask off the sides, front and especially the bottom. You want the action to rest on the bottom of the action, not rocking on the bottom of the lug. You want a solid bed for the rear of the lug to handle recoil.

Mausers don't have a lot of barrel thread engagement with the receiver, so it's usually a good idea to give the barrel a little extra support by bedding the first inch or so. It will still vibrate consistently.

What everyone else said. Make very sure that the verticle side of the back of the rear tang ( the round area) has clearance of @ least .005" or more. If this area does not have clearance to the stock, recoil can tranfer and crack your stock on top of the grip area. The recoil lug should be recieving the recoil force, not the tang.

I will add to all of the above.

First, the Mauser was the first rifle that had pillars included in it`s bedding system, the first is up front, where the recoil lug NEEDS to mate perfectly with the corrisponding recess in the bottom metal. Take the action apart, study it and you will see how it works. (Mr. Mauser was a pretty smart guy!) The second is the spacer for rear tang and bottol metal. IT has to be in direct alignment with the tang hole, or you will have binding when inserting the guard screw.
All this can take a bit of time to properly inlet the top and bottom metal. If the action your working with has locking screws for the guard screws, military actions mostly, this complicates the process a bit.
Nothing here that can`t be done, but time and carefull attention to detail.
IMHO, bedding the 700 is a walk in the park.