Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Backpack Hunting GoLite Shangri-La 5 or 3?

OK, I sold my Exped Orion and want to go to a tipi style tent for my future hunts and am considering one of these 2 models. I am concerned about condensation however and was wondering if installing the nest inside will prevent it.
I like the idea of something I can put up and take down pretty quick and possibly add a woodstove later.

So if you have one of these, which one do you think would be best for 2 people and gear?

The 5 is the definitely the best way to go for 2 people and gear.

Go with the 5 for sure with 2 guys. The only way i would add the nest is if you are worried about bugs. Teh nest will not prevent condensation, just "help" you not to brush up against it. It is far too much weight for that in my opinion. There is plendy of room in the SL5 to just stay away from the wall if there is condensation (not so mush in the SL 3). If you had the nest, it would also be more of a pain to take your boots off in the "vestibule" instead of just walking right in.

Ben

I have the hex-3 (or whatever they called the old version) if you want to check one out in person.

I might need the nest for bug issues when I do my float hunts but other than that, bugs are not an issue. Would the floor work just as well for keeping out the bugs? How do they hold up in high winds since they are sit up higher than your standard tent?

cwh2, might take you up on that offer before I get ready to throw down one. Thanks.

They will do great in high winds. As far as bugs go, as long as it is pitched close to the ground, and you don't have the door open, bugs will generally be kept at bay. If they do get in, they seem to be so freaked out that they spend all of their time at the peak trying to get out vs trying to suck your blood.

Ben

I got some reports from another website on this thing, it seems condensation is a big problem for those that have used them. If that's the case then these probably won't work for me as a lot of the time we are packing up camp as soon as we wake up and had our morning joe when doing float hunts. Does anyone know if the Kifaru liner will fit inside the Shagri-La 5??

I would be interested to hear if the liners kifau uses prevent condensation or just prevent the user from brushing up against the canopy if it is covered in condensation.

From what I read on their website it sounds like it doesn't prevent condensation but keeps it from raining down on you.

https://kifaru.net/shelteraccessories.html

This is not in regard to Kifaru, but in regard at least to the Tipi Liners I know about. I have done a lot of testing, as we (seekoutside.com) provide a couple condensation mitigation options with our Tipi's. The Liner essentially makes the tent a double wall. Condensation forms on the outer wall, while the inner wall stays dry. I have experimented a lot with Liners of all varieties. Here is a run down

Full disclosure: We are making Tipi's with Liners. This is in no way meant to be a sales pitch. Just adding in some personal experience.

FWIW, I have some pretty good experience with bugs and wind and Tipi's as well , see more on that at the bottom

No-see-um mesh - this is what would be in a hex nest, this is moderately to relatively effective. I have boiled 40 ounces of water in a small Tipi, with on no see-em mesh and while I could get water through if I tried, under normal circumstances it kept a large percentage off of you, basically, a surface tension is created, that allows the water to flow off even though the fabric has small holes. Our product has a partial screen and I've slept under it when there was extreme condensation. It was much drier under no-see-um and brushing up against was not much of an issue, it will let in some water though, but much less.

Regular liner or DWR,
In some cases, DWR is a must. A good DWR is extremely effective at keeping water off, as well as making the shelter a bit warmer. The downside is it weighs more. A light DWR may only add a pound or so.


Bugs:
The hex pitches up off the ground, this goes a long ways to minimize moderate ground induced condensation and improve ventilation. In my experience, bugs are attracted to brighter colors. That is why our standard colors are Taupe and Tan. We had one prototype Tipi that was Gold and Taupe combo, I was testing in an area known for bugs, and there were 50 flies on the gold and only a couple on the Taupe. I've seen this several times. A common modification is to add a bug screen, sod skirt to a Hex style tent.

Wind: They handle wind very well, at least the Tipi's do. I had a tested that said they could not stand up in the wind, but the Tipi was fine. The wind however will push in the side of you shelter on the windy side. Guylines and other methods can be used to mitigate this a bit.

Other things to consider:
In rally strong rains, or hail misting can happen. I know some people think it is totally condensation caused, (where the condensation is being pushed off the material) while others think it's the water being forced through the fabric. Personally, I've experienced it during hail. I think it is a bit of both. There are some ways to mitigate it's effects a bit but to really stay dry only a good liner will do.

All in all, there are gives and takes, but there is really not any other way to get roomy and light. I'll take the lightness , and the options of making it more comfortable. All said and done, a nice big TIpi, with a liner, and a little rope rigging is still lighter than the average dome tent and way more flexible.

Do you make a liner that would fit something like a Shangri-La 5? As much as i'd like to buy a higher end model tipi, it' just isn't in the budget.

FWIW , I've had wind in a dome tent blow the poles inversely, and I've had wind totally blow away a dome tent where the Tipi was fine. So , I'll take a wall coming in a bit if thats the downside.

To reply on the Liner, no, it's really something you have to plan on during the initial structure to attach. They could change the pattern and then where are we ? It's difficult. The no-see-um nest will be moderately effective, since surface tension will help it. I think the nest is smaller than the structure though.

I understand the cost part. The only way to make that price point is overseas and large quanities. It's also important to note the size differences, a hex is not the same size as the larger tipi's. If it's something you can wait a few weeks we may have some specials on the larger ones as well as we will have a smaller one that is more in "Hex sizing" and less expensive.

P.M me for more details if interested.

AKMNTHNTR,

Yeah I really like my SL5. Thing is its only 7 oz heavier than the SL-3 for another 30+ sq ft of space. Thats a pretty good trade off for weight. Not only that but the SL3 is only 62" at the peak vs. 72" of the SL5.

I am among the worst gear junkies there is. But after purchasing the SL5 and getting it setup with the two different inner nests and what not I have been so satisfied with it that I have actually not even been looking at other tents for over 4 months now (which is saying something )

The tent body of the SL5 weighs 30 oz (before I added guy lines to all points and seam sealed it). 20 MSR ground hog stakes is another 15 oz (this makes the tent bomb proof really if you stake out all points). And the adjustable center pole which I only take if weight isn't a considering (float hunting or wheelering would qualify for this) is 13 oz.

I also have the standard SL5 inner nest which is 2.75 pounds so taht gives you 90 sq ft of completely enclosed space for only 5.5 pounds. Not too shabby. But I really only bring that nest along if it is more than my wife and I going and the bugs are bad.

If it is just Becca and I we put use a Mount Laurel Designs Duomid inner tent that has is a completely enclosed bug net with floor that is only 14.5 oz.

http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=35&products_id=127

Its roughly 30 sq ft and takes up just a 1/3 of the tent's area which leaves you 60 sq ft to put packs, boots, cook and hangout out of the weather and enter the tent soaking wet, muddy and bloodly with all your gear and boots on and not worry about getting your sleeping gear dirty.

Another thing I do is use any set of Black Diamond trekking poles that over 135 cm version or taller to really make it work and pull the lower two sections out of one of the poles and put the tip of the other pole into where the lower sections where of the other pole. (Sounds complicated but its not) This way one pole handle is supporting the peak of the roof and the other pole handle is at the other end on the ground. This eliminates the need for the adjustable center pole as the Trekking pole is actually more adjustable than the standard pole and allows you to leave that 13 oz pole at home.

Plus if its just me and a buddy that doesn't mind sleeping on the bare ground in a bivy we leave the bug net at home as well as the center pole and just take the tent body and stakes and use the trekking pole setup as the center pole. This makes for a 2.75 pound shelter with PLENTY of space for 3 guys and their gear.

Overall I really like having the floorless outer area and the screened in sleeping area much of the fall summer and finding areas to pitch a non-freestanding tent isn't an issue for me thus far.

Extremely happy with this setup. So much so that my Hillberg Nallo GT 3 will be up for sale here later this winter when I get time to put my giant gear sale together.

You can get the GoLite SL5 for around $300 and pick up a 2 man (wouldn't want to use it with anyone other than my wife though as it is pretty cozy ) for around $99 if you purchase from Bearpaw tents. Also get the SL5 nest if desired for around $140. At any rate its much more versatile tent than my Hilleberg thus it getting the boot.

Here are a few pics of the tent in action to get the idea:

Tent with the MLD bug netting inside showing how much space is still left to put gear and people out of the weather.



Just some random places the tent as been. All the pics of the taken of my tent have been with trekking pole support and have only used the center pole on one trip




[img]http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x8/alaska_lanche/SANY0786.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x8/alaska_lanche/SANY0766.jpg[/img]

Condensation hasn't been an issue even with a couple mornings waking up to this:
[img]http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x8/alaska_lanche/SANY0771.jpg[/img]

Ok I am sure you got WAY more info and pics than ya wanted, but hey I like the tent what can I say which is pretty good considering how often I cycle through my gear. In fact its going with me to Kodiak here in 2 weeks.

Don't worry about the condensation, just give the tent a good shake and wrap it up. If you are running a stove inside, when you set up in the evening the heat will dry things out.

Like seekoutside said, a liner just makes your tent a double wall. Condensation is a product of humidity (from the air, from the ground, from cooking, from your breath) and temperature. When the moisture contacts an outer surface that isn't permable it condenses. Single wall tents don't have any more condensation than double walls, it is just more visable.

Often good camp site selection can go a long way at mitigating condensation. Avoid grassy areas as they hold a lot more moisture that will eventially end up on the inside of your tent. My 1st choice for site selection is an area under trees with needle duff. The trees provide wind protection and the the duff is softer than being on rock or gravel. Of course this isn't always possible.

The GoLite system is very versatile as well.

Ed,

When you talk about condensation in one of the SL5's, do you think the stove does a good job or contribute to the condensation? I would think that heating up the stove would help reduce condensation overall, but I plan on using my setup in late Oct and late November in a mountain setting, where it will be VERY cold at night.

I'm hoping running the stove and drying thigns out in the evening should help mitigate the condenstaion. Overall I think its a great size shelter for 2 guys and gear.

I purchased a 5 after reading a bunch of reports on this board...have been very pleased with the tent the probably 10 nights I spent in it.

Also purchased an Appy Trails MKV and it too has been a great tent.

Where I camp there are usually a lot of trees to break the wind. Condensation has never been a problem even when it has been freezing out....always a had a lot more in the Timberline I used for 25 years...

Bob

Trev,

Mostly the stove will reduce condensation. It warms and dries the air. Cooking and drying clothing will produce more water vapor, but you would have that if you were cooking on a gas stove and if you had your tent full of wet clothing.

If its real cold, you might end up with some condensation at the very bottom that doesn't "burn off" so to speak, with the use of the wood stove. The majority of the tent will be dry while the stove is going.

Wood heated shelter is the only way to go in cold weather IMO.

Great call on the 5. I've got a 3, and it's big enough for me and that's about it. Looking to have my 3 sent off to BearPaw to get some no-seeum sewn into the perimeter.

NXP

Alaska lanche has one of the most versatile set ups I've seen. If you need a nest, that MLD bug nest seems like a great way to go. Lightweight and doesn't interfere with using a stove or walking in the tent with boots and the like. The Golite nests do the job but for all models I've checked, they weigh more than the shelter and pole combined. I'm going to have to try that mated hiking pole trick with my SL-4.

CCH it will work like a champ with your SL4. They are the same peak height so it will be fine. Just gotta get 135 or 140 cm trekking poles and extend it to the STOP and you are as tall as you would ever need to go. Heck my SL8 with 180 sq ft of space is now down to 5 pounds even with the extra stakes included if we use two sets of trekking poles for the peak. Which is pretty impressive space to weight for 4 or more people.