Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing removing rust spots on a parkerized finish

I just got lucky and picked up an 870 Express for under $200. The only problem I can see is there are several small spots of rust on the receiver and magazine tube that won't rub off with a green scrub pad. There are only 3 or 4 small spots but I'd like to get them taken care of ASAP. What's the best way to remove this without destroying the finish? Thanks.

Soak with Kroil and them try Flitz metal polish. If it still doesn't come off 0000 Bronze wool from a boat shop but go easy even the Bronze wool could take some of the Parkerizing off.

This usually means neglect or the parkerizing is worn. Essox over Parkerizing then wax works pretty well at keeping it from starting even with heavy salt water use. On my Duck guns I would put camo tape over the wax and it would be good for most of the season. If any of the tape started to lift it meant it was time to take all of it off and clean then re-oil/wax.

A parkerized finish is not a rust colored process. Perhaps, I have not tried it, a rust removing product such as evap-o-rust would remove just the rust and allow for no removal of surrounding phosphates. As stated a good wax worked into the parkerized finish after it has been given a good oil and then wiped off will work wonders. I have just recently begun using wax on my firearm steel and am pleased.

I hadn't heard of Kroil, but I just ordered some Flitz. I am trying something similar to bbassi. I am trying to get rid of some spots on my Remington 1100 and an old Ruger SA .22.

I'll have to try a rust remover first.. if I can't find Kroil.

Years back I had an issue M40 with some type of military parkerized finish that developed rust spots. The temps were over 100-degrees and I was laying on the rifle for an extended period of time and salt from by sweat and some blood spotted the reciever and bolt. It went back into the bag and a day or two later all those spots were colored rust. Don't recall which oil was used, but it was heavily coated with a rust neutralizing oil and sat for a period. After that period, it was wiped down dry and then it was wiped down with a light coat of oil followed by a heavy coat of wax. You could no longer see the rust colored spots and it never rusted again.

Best

The WWII field armorer method of derusting a parkerized weapon was to boil the metal in water for a few minutes. This converted the red rust to black rust (same process as in rust bluing). The black rust could be easily removed with fine steel wool leaving a dark, but thin layer of oxide instead of bright metal. Follow with oil, wax or whatever you like.

RAN

Thanks for the input. I heavily oiled it for the short term until I learned more. What type of wax are you talking about for this type of application? I've never used wax on any firearm.

I don't think you would go wrong keeping a can of Johnson Paste Wax around the house. I've used some old surplus bowling alley wax for years, which I personally think protects the best, but it is hard to apply. The Johnson paste wax can be brushed on with a small solvent brush at room temperature and it turns near liquid getting into all the tight places. The wax will not displace with normal handling and it will float the moisture off the metal surface.

What I use now is a formula for making liquid cosmoline made with alox. It was designed to protect machined parts stored on deck from salt spray. I make it by the gallon and keep it in the shop. Once a year when I break my rifles down for an LTI, I solvent wash the barreled actions clean and then apply the alox solution. After assembly, I perform normal routine maintenance with periodic applications of wax throughout the year. It works for me and is cheap.

Best

I was given a tin of Boston floor wax, then later a paint can size tin of it, so I use that. Bedding, rust preventing, whatever.

Kroll and 000 steel wool

0000 steel wool and a good solvent is the best way to remove rust. Whether it damages the finish or not is more determined by how long the rust was left untreated, and if any salts were present, and what type of finish the gun has. An 870 "Express" does not have a parkerized finish. It is just a bead-blasted blue and not very resistant to rust. A real parkerized finish is much more resistant to corrosion and wear.

+1

evapo rust will Not remove any parkerizing finish at all.