Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles CZ 550 FS 9.3X62 Report

I am sure some of you have read/researched reports on this rifle, but here is some more info on the topic, and the more independent reports we have the more accurate we can determine whether something is worth a damn. So here goes...

I picked up this NIB 2006yr manufactured CZ 550 FS off Gunbroker for $805 in hand.





Initial impressions

Stock:

I am really pleased with the fiddleback Turkish walnut. The hogback stock makes shooting this rifle a dream. The drop of the stock and the hogback profile keep recoil from the face. It acts as a fulcrum where the recoil seems to be absorbed lower in the chest and the muzzle end hops straight up. Recoil pad is a nice feature as well. I would say the recoil is like a 12ga 2,3/4" slug.

The end cap is secured with a small screw and sqaure nut that sits recessed into the inside bottom of the stock. This nut ended up stripping the wood, letting the end cap shoot loose every session. I discovered that the barreled action can be removed with end cap bolted on, so I JB Welded the nut in place inside the stock. Basically, just filled the indention, where the nut sits flush with the stock. (I think the factory should embed the nut in nylon and place it inside the stock to prevent it from stripping wood)

I applied 6 coats of pure tung oil inside and out of the stock and then finished the outside with Minwax paste wax. The stock now has a nice glow and should be more weather proof.

A dollar bill drags for a couple inches one side of the barrel channel near middle, and rests tight against the top prongs of the end cap, but this doesn't seem to be a problem with accuracy. (Or at least what I call acceptable accuracy)

Action:

Out of the box the action was gritty, even after cleaning, and the bolt felt and sounded like it was wrapped in sand paper why cycling. A few hundred cycles while watching TV and some grease has remedied this 100% and is now slick as any other, well...slick rifle action.

I also found that if I muscle the bolt to the rear, while I still have the rifle shouldered, the case does not eject and stays on the bolt face. I noticed this problem was caused by the bolt rotating and covering the ejector slot as the bolt was brought to the rear. If I don't impart that angle, or binding force, on the bolt while cycling, it throws brass just fine. Now that I have a scope mounted, I cycle the bolt by blading the bolt with my fingers together like a handshake, and throw it back straight to the rear. Problem solved.

Trigger:

Easiest and most screw accessible trigger I have set! 3 screws and I have it set just where I want it. No trigger pull gauge, but the trigger breaks right when I want it to (probably 3.5lbs) wihtout any creep. The set-trigger is a nice feature, but since I have my trigger set so well to my liking I don't see me needing the set trigger so much.

Load Developement:

My recipes

(Fired at 50 F. 750ft ASL, no pressure signs. All bullets seated with slight roll crimp)

Bullet: 250gr Nolser Accubond
Powder: 60gr Varget 60gr AA 2520
Case: Prvi
Primer: WLR
COL: Cannelure
MV: 2550fps / 2600fps
Std Dev: 5fps / 4fps

Bullet: 286gr Hornady Interlock
Powder: 58.5gr Varget 58.5 AA 2520
Case: Prvi
Primer: WLR
COL: Cannelure
MV: 2380fps / 2390fps
Std Dev: 8fps

Bullet: 285gr Prvi Partisan seated to aft cannelure = identical data as Hornady Interlock.

The AA 2520 is more temperature sensitive than the Varget. I heated all the rounds for 30 mins via truck cab heater and stored them in my coat before firing to mimic performance in the hoter temps, and to make sure I am safe for the summer shoots. AA 2520 loads were easier to seat the bullet as the case was less compressed than a similar load of Varget.

Accuracy

I had a 1.75-5X Burris Signature Series Safari scope collecting dust so I mounted it with the supplied CZ rings and it seems to be doing the job just fine.

I fired at 50yds with rifle secured in a Bulls Bag from atop a rickety old shooting bench. Not the best of testing conditions, but I was impressed with my results considering my end cap was loose.

PRVI 285gr: 4 Shot Group w/ AA 2520 (Inner orange circle, shots outside orange were sighers)


PRVI 285gr 3 shot Group w/ Varget


Hornady 286gr 5 Shot Group w/ Varget


I will be testing out the Nosler Accubonds tomorrow and will post my results as well. Now that my end cap is welded and some 67 F. weather...should be some good shooting!

You have ONE FINE hunting rifle there! Looks great and should be exceedingly deadly on anything that is legal to shoot at on the planet. Love it, and thanks for the report. Keep up the input and reporting, please.

PS Burris Signature Safari 1.75-5X is what I have been running on my highly customized CZ 416 Rigby for a long, long time and many rugged long hunts in Alaska and Africa. GREAT scope for a big rifle, best one going, IMO. You have wonderful tastes in arms.

Nice looking rifle - it looks very much like mine! I recently stripped the factory CZ finish off and redid it with about 15 coats of Tru Oil. The factory finish was hiding some pretty nice wood.

My end cap has not come loose (as did the one on my Husqvarna) and I've had the stock off a couple of times. I also bedded the recoil lug on the barrel, the one by the action has a steel plate in the stock. I changed the recoil pad to shorten the length of pull. But all this was done this winter so it hasn't been shot since being refinished and bedded.

Mine has Talley detachable rings on it (picked them because they were lower than any others I could find information on) but then put on a Nikon scope with a pretty large ocular that the bolt handle just hits. I prefer the balance and feel of the rifle with the NECG peep sight over having having it scoped, but old eyes need help.

So far (in limited shooting) it seems that mine groups the 270 g. Speer to a different point than it does the 285 g. PRVI. When the weather improves I'll try the loads again along with some 286 g. Hornadys (only change is a difference in bullets, the other components are the same). Clint

Redbeard,

I had the identical rifle, and the stock was just as pretty. I found it to be heavy in the hand. The bolt tended to bind in the rear position. The scope had to be mounted uncomfortably high to clear the bolt handle. I didn't have anywhere near $800 into it. I sold it.

Safariman: My rifle and I blush at those nice compliments! LOL! I have the post reticle in that Burris scope. I LOVE IT! The Posi-lock works great!

CKW: Get some pics up of that rifle! I almost went with the NECG peep, but since rings came with the gun and I had this Burris scope I ran with the scope. My receiver lug is a plastic insert. I originally thought it was steel, but discovered otherwise.

I took the rifle out yesterday at a nice 70 F. temp. Here is what happened:

Bullet: 250gr Accubond
Powder: 60gr AA 2520
Case: PRVI
Primer: WLR
COL: Cannelure
MV: 2515fps
Range: 50yds


Notes: The AA 2520 might be too temp sensitive for me. Heated with the truck cab heater and fired the other day yielded 2600fps. With the ammo at ambient temps of 70 F. they flew 85fps slower. Does this change things? I don't know what if any POI change there would be accross the temp spectrum, but since I have an ample supply of Varget I will just stick with Varget and limit the velocity fluctuations.

Holy POI difference between the 250 Accubond and the 286gr Hornady Interlock, Batman! I will add that the Accubonds didn't group quite as I had hoped. I will see how they do with Varget.

Bullet: 286gr Hornady Interlock
Powder: 58.5gr AA 2520
Case: PRVI
Primer: WLR
COL: Cannelure
MV: 2375fps
Range: 50yds



Notes: Its lovin those 286 grainers!

RB308, Pictures - hmmm - I tried once with another rifle and couldn't do it, since than I had to get a new computer and I've not done any photo editing on it so pics will be slow in coming (if at all given my low level of computer skills).

I appreciate the information you share on your rifle. I bought mine new from a local dealer who ordered it from CZ and I spent more than you did so congrats on a good snag. I'd thought about one for a couple of years but when I decided to buy one of course the price was up!

Are you aware that it will feed single rounds just dropped into the chamber, the extractor will slip over the case head (that is in the CZ manual) and mine worked very slick that way with the original extractor. But I broke that one cycling dummy rounds through it a year ago and the replacement extractor is not quite as smooth as the first one. By the way, don't bother e-mailing CZ-USA or sending a letter -- they don't respond. Do a phone call and when you get through - then the service is good, but before that live phone contact (leaving a message on the phone doesn't work) any communication seems to drop into a black hole.

I shot mine today but the weather was not good for shooting groups, but I did try three shot groups with three different bullets, 270 Speer, 285 PRVI and 286 Hornady. They all shot to the same point of aim (which was a question I had). The wind was gusty between 10 and 20 mph so my groups were 1.9" to 2.8", mainly due to conditions and operator error. Other times I've shot groups of 1.1" with the 4 power scope, 2" with the peep sights.

I've has some problems with the Talley Rings (I don't like the CZ rings that came with the rifle as they are too tall for my tastes) but I've had trouble with scopes shifting under recoil in the Talleys. I first tried a Burris FFII 2-7X35 3P but the scope ran out of vertical elevation adjustment. I bought a Nikon Monarch African 1-4X20 in part because it has 120 MOA adjustment (according to their specs) compared to the Burris 60 MOA. The recoil lug on the Talley's is small compared to the NECG peep sight and the CZ rings so I shimmed it to make it fit more closely into the notch on the receiver. But today after about 25 shots the scope had slipped a little. I redid the scope and rings and tried putting a little rubber cement in the rings and torqued them to 20 inch-pounds. The Talleys do return to zero when I remove the scope.

On the other hand the iron sights shot too high with the front bead I had ordered from NECG via Brownells. After contacting NECG with my problem I bought two taller beads. I haven't tried sighting it in yet with the new bead (fitting the bead to the base is a pain for a klutz like me). So last summer I had a scope that shot too low and iron sights that shot too high. But the rifle would still kill gallon milk jugs filled with water at 100+ yards with the peep sight (my eyes won't really let me use the factory notch rear sight).

I've been happy with my trigger just as it came from the factory, it is just over 3 lbs unset and about 1 lb set so I have not adjusted the trigger. My action was also a little gritty at first but cycling it and putting a little Flitz on the bolt (not on the lugs) and working the action for a few minutes smoothed things up.

I haven't crimped my bullets yet and won't unless they start shifting under recoil. The throat on my rifle is verrry long and I seat the bullets to just fit within the magazine and they seem to feed fine.

I started load development with RL-15 but saw a load using Ramshot Big Game suggested by John Barsness. After trying that and getting good (for me) accuracy and more than enough velocity with no signs of pressure; I stopped and just use 65 g. of BG in PRVI brass with a magnum primer. With three different bullets today all 9 rounds were in an overlapping cluster and if I had not marked each shot would not have know which bullet was used.

Now I need to shoot something other than paper and milk jug with it!

I've got a CZ 550 9.3x62 standard rifle (now custom-stocked by Kilimanjaro Rifles) and had the full-stocked model for a while as well. My standard rifle was purchased in 2002, and the action was VERY slick from the start, but the full-stocked rifle has from a few few years later and evidently CZ didn't feel the need to finish them so slickly anymore. It still shot fine but the metal finish was noticeably rougher.

My only suggestion to RedBeard308 is that tung oil does NOT come anywhere close to waterproofing a stock. Aside from using epoxy for the finish (and some people do) the easiest waterproof finish is some combination of tung oil and urethane. This is found in the best spar varnishes, and some other stock finishes. Of course, some variety of straight urethane finish will also work, especially on the inletting where it doesn't have to be finished as nicely.

CKW:

We all seem to have out own little quirks when it comes to rifle and shooting don't we! LOL.

I've never had a scope slip on me. I've used Burris, Leupold, Warne, and now CZ rings. I make sure to have equal spacing between the two ring halves and tighten down the screws in a pattern to the point I can't turn them without using significant torque. I use hand sanitizer to clean all screws and metal to metal contact areas and then LOC-TITE everything with Blue Loc-tite.

I don't know why the Burris scope is exceeding 60MOA! How far out ar eyou shooting?

You are truely blessed to have that rifle shooting three different bullets same POI. Today I shot at 200-300yds on my steel plate and the Hornady and Prvi shot similar POI, but as usual the 250gr Accubonds flew "high and right". I am recording my scope settings so I can make the switch between bullets when needed.

I am glad I got off the bench and shot at distance; supported standing and unsupported kneeling. Some differences in zero settings than off the bench, and I had some good groups at the 200 and 300yd.

Mule_Deer: I have always been told pure tung oil soaks into the grian and then polymerizes. Water proofing from the inside, while polyurethane just hardens on top.

Wow. That is a fine and elegant rifle in a classic chambering. Congrats RedBeard and thanks for the report. Now if they only made them southpaw <drool>.

I've had excellent luck with RL-15 in a couple different 9,3x62's including a CZ. It might be well worth your trying as it is one of the more temp stable powders..............................DJ

I always see 3 powders posted when talking about handloading the 9.3X62; Varget, RL-15, Big Game. (I wonder if the various 4350s, which are listed next to Big Game in the burn chart, could be a viable substitute?)

Pure economics have precluded me from trying RL-15 and Big Game, for I have 8lbs of Varget on hand, which I use for most of my reloading in .223, 308, and 9.3.

However, I am really happy with the accuracy results obtained with AA 2520. It meters like a dream, I can fit more in a case of 9.3X62, but the velocity variations drive me away. If I am hunting where the daily temps range between 40-80 F. degrees(TX, and Africa) will I see much difference in POI change with a 100fps change in velocity?

Hold that thought...I live in IL, I can find that answer out for myself! LOL! Stay tuned for this range experiment with AA 2520!

Gringo: Thanks for the kind words, Sir! If I were you I would find a 9.3x62 in some lefty rifle! Ruger African possibly?

I got out for some 300yd tests. Shooting from my truck cab, 15mph 1/2 value wind, 60F. With wind blowing left to right I aimed at top left shoulder and recorded the drop and wind drift. Both rounds shot with 200yd zero at 300yds.

286gr Hornady SP-RP @ 2390fps:


3 shots
Drop: 13"
Wind drift: 7.5"

250gr Accubond @ 2550fps:


5 shots
Drop: 6"
Wind drift: 4"

Comments: Both rounds seem to group well, but the Hornady 286gr seems to group easier. Sometimes I felt I messed up the shot and they still printed tight. The Accubond sure shows me when I mess up a shot.

I will give the nod to the Accubond for less drop and better wind drift results. However, since I know my drops with the Hornady, that is the bullet that I shoot the most confidently.

RedBeard308 - also have the CZ550FS but opted for the 6.5 Swede chambering instead...and they are classy looking pieces. IF my new Ruger 9.3 doesn't work out chances are a new CZ will take it's place. Good luck with it. Regards, Homesteader.

Trust me...it will!

I have one in 9.3 and one in 6.5. Love them both! CZ makes a great rifle. Both shoot shoot great and aren't picky about powder or bullets.

sactoller - a great vote of confidence, both for the Ruger 9.3 and me. Regards, Homesteader.

badshot257 - on my 6.5 Swede CZFS I have to agree with you. As long as I load the rounds in pointy side to the front it doesn't seem to matter who makes the ammo...me or the factory. Usually pretty tight groups but only if I watch my coffee intake LOL. Homesteader

Check out Karnis report on his new Ruger Hawkeye African 9.3x62, shooting some great groups. My Ruger 9.3 is a custom on a tang safety...and yes it shoots! The Ruger now has an ebony tip and been refinished by Karnis, need to take some photos.

I also had a CZ 550FS in 9.3x62 shot very well, just ran into this Ruger so one had to go.