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tex n cal,

I would have to find his article again to make absolutely sure, but I believe it was in the 650-degree range.

Heating it red-hot gets the brass to 800+ degrees, which makes it too soft.


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This is a quote from an article by Dr. Howell.

"When the brass around the mouth reaches a temperature of about 660� to 665� Fahrenheit (about 350� Celsius, which equals 662� Fahrenheit), its surface becomes light blue � and this is as hot as you want to let it get."


Here's a post from Dutch that helps explain the annealing/stress relieving process and the temps required. The last paragraph is particularly interesting.

Originally Posted by Dutch
Bobski

This is the best chart I have been able to find on the subject; and it shows you are right. There is a wide range of temperatures that apply. What's worse, 660F doesn't fit with this information AT ALL!

[Linked Image]

edited to add:

Further, in the link below to an engineering manual, the annealing temperature for cartridge brass is listed as 800 - 1400 degrees Fahrenheit -- I suppose it's time to quit quibbling over 650 vs. 660 degrees........

http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=wrought_copper_alloy_c26000_cartridge_brass

Thing is, I have annealed much brass using a 660 degree temp stick, and it WORKS. I get consistent, desirable results. What we do, may be "stress releaving" rather than true annealing -- which may result in the "dead soft" condition described by those who caution against overheating. If so, the 660 on the shoulder is probably the maximum to prevent the neck from going over the 800 degrees listed. FWIW, Dutch.

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
� Fred Barker, a retired metallurgist �

Good guy!

"Teah. All right. Okay. Sure. Mm-hm. You bet." grin ("in" joke)


"Good enough" isn't.

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I'm Catholic and spent much of my younger years "annealing"


Candles were lit.


Does this count ????????/


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Only if you had Ecclesiastical Approbation. smile

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Yeah, Fred is a good guy! Good shot, too....


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Originally Posted by ColsPaul
Originally Posted by smokepole
Originally Posted by ColsPaul
better yet ...
hold it in you lips.


I've got a better idea, hold "this" in your lips.


queer


Dude. I was talking about the candle. What were you thinking?



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I read that article in PS back in the '90s I believe. Have been annealing that way since.


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Couple of hints.

Keep the neck of the case pointed up a bit, otherwise the hot gas from the flame accumulates in the body of the case and makes it really hot very quickly, I think giving one a false sense that the annealing has had time to work.

Wiping each case with a wet cloth ala' Mule Deer's version does work best. It cleans the considerable soot from the necks but doesn't get any water inside the case if you want to load them that night.




The original post told how I fireformed 2X cases that had been annealed, but don't have a baseline of performance. So, I annealed six .243 cases that have been fired 10 times. I'm going to use the same full power load used previously and load six cases, also fired 10X, that have not been annealed.

If all six annealed cases survive I'll go ahead and anneal the rest of the batch of 100 and use'em up in the Ackley.


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Would this method work on primed cases? Would I have to resize after annealing? I'm only asking because I haven't a clue. grin


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I would not use it on a primed case but that's just being extra cautious and not letting a primer get near a flame. In actuality the head of the case doesn't get nearly hot enough to set off a primer and if you use a wet cloth no water gets in the case to possibly kill the primer.

But I still wouldn't do it.

You can resize before or after annealing, neither procedure has much to do with each other except generally. All you're doing is relieving or "softening" the work hardened neck of the case to keep it from cracking.


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I don't see why it wouldn't work with primed cases, because the head of the case never gets hot. But I would be pretty nervous about getting a primer anywhere near an open flame!

No need to resize cases after annealing.


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I've used JB's method, but started just using the kitchen stove. Turn the gas on low, gently turn in the flame, and plop...into some water. I didn't like all the carbon on the cases from the candle smoke. The rag makes sense though if you don't want to wait for the cases to dry out.


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John,

One other question. Do you find that there is a certain number of cases you can anneal before your fingers lose their sensitivity to the proper amount of heat?

I would think a person can become accustomed to increasing heat, so their fingers don't sense the same amount of heat the more cases you anneal (in one session). Don't know if this is the case or not, so thought I'd ask.

Thanks!


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IME they increase in sensitivity as you go along.

After annealing a batch, I annealed 121 30-06 cases just last night, if not careful I end up with a very minor 1st degree burn on my fingetips. Not really a burn, more like a bad sunburn. You quickly learn to hold on to those cases only until it gets "almost too hot to hold", not until it's a test of willpower to see how much pain you can stand. wink


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One thing I do when heating the case is start counting when the neck gets put into the flame. I've found it takes just about the same count for my fingers to start feeling the heat every time.


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I've got a bunch of .221 Fireball cases that need annealing pretty bad. I'll have to give this a try.

However, that Fireball case is awfully short, I suspect my fingers will get pretty warm...............


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Mule Deer's tip about counting should work.

"one, tw...ouch!"

wink


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
I don't see why it wouldn't work with primed cases, because the head of the case never gets hot. But I would be pretty nervous about getting a primer anywhere near an open flame!


Well I guess I'm a risk taker cuz I just did about 10 primed cases the other day and I'm just fine but there's one problem that occured. When I wiped my cases down with the wet paper towel some water got inside about 6 of the cases and so I just deprimed the whole lot of them and let them dry for a while before seating more primers. So, all in all, it wasn't worth the risk.

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It seems simple enough... that even I will try it.


That which does not kill us makes us stronger

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