Home Forums Gear Knives and Blades Bark River questions

Looking at some models by Bark River for a general utility/hunting knife

What Steel;
D-2, A-2 or 154 CM ?

What handle;

Micarta or G-10 ?

what ever floats your boat....its really mostly about personal preference and what you will use it for.

I think Bark River uses A-2 in most of their knives. I like it alright, and I like D-2 and CPM-154 for a stainless. If you like a knife that has any of these steels, you'll be alright. I like micarta a lot, especially paper (because it can be highly polished) and linen. I like canvas micarta too, but to a lesser degree than paper or linen...I just think they look better most of the time. I haven't warmed up to G-10 yet, although I think the orange and blue both look real good.

Maybe I should clarify my questions;

What�s the practical difference between Micarta and G-10 handles ?

What�s the practical difference between A-2 and D-2 blades ?

Going back and forth between the Bravo-1 and Fox River, any comments ?

Also considering a Cold Steel Master Hunter.

1. None.

2. D2 technically has more wear resistance.

3. Get em' both if you like em'.

4. I like the Barkies that you mentioned better.

Micarta has canvas, linen or paper layers in a resin.
G-10 has fiber glass layers in a resin--heavier and stonger.

D2 is near stainless with 10-12% chromium.
A2 only has 3-4% chromium and needs at least a little housekeeping to prevent rusting and pitting. A2 has some other elements that add to its overall value for me. It is a widely used steel for metal stamping die tooling--good enough sales pitch for me.

Actual knife and blade style is mostly a matter of personal preference with an eye towards intended use.
To me the drop point is the most versital with other designs leaning towards some specific application.

The companies you are looking at all make a good product.

JMHO
Tim

The Bravo-1 is a bit bigger knife. I prefer it for it's balance. They skeletenize the metal underneath the scales and it makes the Bravo-1 balance right at the front finger when in had. IMHO it's one of the best balanced knives out there. You can get them in either A2 or Stainless. The stainless costs more and is actually slightly heavier. The A2 works darn good, just wipe it off and oil it after use.

Either of the Barkie's you mention is a MUCH better knife than the Cold Steel (I have all three).

Two other knives I think you should also look at are the Bark River Gunny and the Fallkniven F-1. Both are slightly smaller than the Bravo-1 and about the size of the Fox river. I like the blade shape of the Gunny and F-1. The F-1 has pretty much become a classic amongst knife and woodcraft folks, the gunny is almost the same blade shape from Bark River in A2 or CMP-154cm vs the Fallknivens laminated VG-10.

My favorite of the bunch and of just about any knife is the Fallkniven F-1...............................DJ

djpaintless,
what do you think of the Fallkniven S-1 Forest knife ?

Love my Three Bark River's in orange G-10.
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The S-1 is a very good knife but I don't really care for the false edge on top and it's a little longer than I prefer. The F-1 is kinda a "Goldilocks" size for me, not too big not too small, just right.

For comparison's sake here's what IMHO are 5 very good knives:



Bark River Canadian
Bark River Bravo-1
Bark River Gunny
Fallkniven F-1
Fallkniven PHK

All have a squared top edge that's better for batoning and is sharp enough to spark a fire steel. I like the sheaths with a slot for a fire steel. All are convex edges which are easy to maintain in the field. Both of those Fallknivens are in the SPG steel which is superb but not cheap. You can get the F-1 in Std VG-10 for 1/2 the price, the PHK only comes in the SPG.
You can get both the Gunny and Bravo-1 in either A2 or CPM-154.

The Std F-1 for just over $100 is subtantially cheaper than any of these and is IMO a real bargain for a top quality and function knife.......................DJ

The more I try to narrow it down, the more knifes I "add' to my short list.

Now looking at the Bark River Gunny SS as well.

Any thoughts on Bark Rivers "Sandvik 19C27" SS used in the Gunny SS ?

Fallkniven is on the list, but I don't care for the handle. I have seen some custom models with Bark River handles, but they use the lesser VG-10 steel, and are close to $300.

I want an Fjallkniven F1 too, and I do not like the handle much either. However, the blade shape is perfect, and the blade steel is wonderful.

I am thinking about buying the bare blade and adding my own nice thick linen Micarta scales (and buying a sheath too). Price isn't that much less though, but at least I get a great blade and do not have to grind a rubber handle away before replacement!

Fjallkniven is here in Sweden so they may sell bare blades or just a sheath here but not elsewhere, but it might be worth looking into.



John

IMO there are a couple nice things about the Fallkniven F-1's std handle. One is that it's comparitively flat. It was specifically made flatter so that it would better fit in a Pilot's survival vest. Other things nice about it is that it doesn't get as slippery when wet or covered in blood as some other materials and it's easy to clean with just soap and water. Heres' another comparison pic that might help, it's a couple Mora's, a F-1, Bravo-1 and a K-bar:




The knives:






The Bravo-1 and the Gunny do feel really nice in the hands comparing them to the F-1 depends on whether or not you prefer the thicker hand filling grip or the narrower flatter carrying grip.

Here's a Gunny SS and a F-1 side by side:



Cocobolo Gunny SS and F-1 with optional sheaths:




I think that the Gunny's Sandvik stainless will end up performing roughly like the std F-1's VG-10 with the exception being that the laminated VG-10 is probably harder to break if you used both as prybars (which of course you should never do). I haven't yet had a chance to use my SS Gunny in the field much yet. I have used a F-1 more than any other single knife - I keep coming back to it after trying others. So many knives so few deer and Elk tags.


JPB, you can get the F-1 bare blades over here, I may have to try my hand and putting scales on a knife one of these days and that would be my first pic.

And FWIW the Mora Military on the far left and bottom of the 2 pics is an absolute steal of a knife. You can get them from SportsmansGuide for about $15 or so. They take a wicked edge, are easy to sharpen, hold an edge decently, weigh very little and are great extra knives to leave in you survival kit, vehicle, kitchen or whatever. One for $15 2 for $25, less if you're a club member:

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=78455


Buy a Barkie or Fallkniven but also pick up one or two of the little Mora's........................DJ

djpaintless,

Many thanks for posting the pictures of the handles from different points of view!

I have saved these pictures and will use them to help me buy (or make) a handle like I want.

Basically, I think a nice round handle of a fairly large diameter like that Ka-Bar would make the F-1 Fjallkniven blade perfect for me. I am thinking of buying an F-1 blade then making a set of fairly thick scales for it from canvas Micarta which I would leave quite rough for grip, rather than highly polished. Maybe even orange G-10 if I go "hi-viz". (I'd likely get the Zytel sheath too because they are quite cheap, but I realize that it might not take the fat handle I would end up with.)

I do like the rubbery handle material the F-1 uses (as you note, it does not get slippery), but the flat, small handle is just too small for my paws. I used a friend's F-1 for skinning a moose, and my fingers were cramping up by the time I was done (felt like I was using a tiny metal scalpel handle by the time I was done!).

Finally, if you (or anybody else with the knowledge) would not mind an additional question: would you go for the standard laminated VG10 blade on the F-1, or (at nearly double the price) the F-1 in laminated 3G powder steel? (see Fjallkniven's words HERE.

I have a Fjallkniven U2 pocket knife with "Super Gold Powder Steel" (where do they get these names?) at RC 62 and have not been able to dull it yet on miles of cardboard, nor chip the blade -- thus my interest in the powder steel 3G laminated F-1 blade.


John

Absolutely! I have one in my car -- and I have another one I can't find right now, but might be in a hunting or fishing coat pocket!

To give you an idea of the costs, here in Sweden, this model of Mora knife would cost about the same as a meal at MacDonald's Heckuva deal (but I find myself still ready to buy an F-1 at 25 times the price! I'm sick...

John

JPB, Over here the only way the blade blanks are available are in the std laminated VG-10, I'm not so sure it isn't the same over there. I have heard of guys removing the Zytel off a 3G model but that's work and the tang is different than the bare blade. I'd just go with the std Laminated VG-10 for at least the first couple.

One thing that Bark River gets right on is the contour of the scales. I think you should emulate it on your F-1 and I'd bet you'll really like it. If you need more pics from any angle just PM me and I'll be glad to try and get you any shot you might need.

I know what you mean about the F-1 costing 25x more than a Mora but if you only have 1 knife with you I think the superior strength of the F-1 is reason enough to justify it's purchase. The F-1 still outperforms knives that cost 3-4 times more, I've tried a bunch and keep coming back to it...............................DJ

djpaintless,

Many thanks for the advice. If I decide to make my own handle, the VG10 it will be!

John
PS: this place is bad news for my wallet!

jpb
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