Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Bowhunting which new bow for elk hunting?

I am just starting to research new compound bows. I have a Martin Lynx Magnum that I bought new in 1993. I live in Walla Walla and Martin is located in Walla Walla so I do have some brand loyalty but if Martin bows are surpassed by other manufacturers then I will seriously consider another brand.
I want to buy a new compound for elk hunting. Draw length of about 29� and draw weight of at least 70# (my current Martin has a draw length of 30� and weight of 75#). I am getting 218 fps from it with a 532 grain total arrow weight.
Accuracy is very important to me. I am not confident that I could shoot one of the really radical new bows with 325 fps IBO speed and short brace height well. So I want a bow that is as they say forgiving of slight errors in form. But I do not want a slow bow either. One of the main reasons I am considering a new bow is to get one that is considerably faster than my current bow. I will likely continue to shoot aluminum arrows at a similar weight. I hope to pick up 25 or more fps from a new bow. Is that realistic to get that much more speed in a forgiving bow? Incidentally what makes a bow forgiving other than brace height? I understand why brace height makes a difference (longer brace heights release the arrow from the string sooner so there is less time for the arrow to be affected by the shooter�s poor form) but are there other factors that make one bow with an 8� brace height more forgiving than a different bow of the same brace height?
What all bows should I consider for my given application and desires? I read an interesting in depth comparison of two bows (the 2004 Bowtech Liberty against the 2004 Champion Diablo ETS) at the following link: http://www.huntersfriend.com/shootout/shootout.htm and wonder where I could find other good reviews of new bows. Is the Bowtech Liberty a good choice for hunting elk or would there be better choices? Thanks, Rufous.

Don't disregard PSE and Hoyt. Do a search for archery competitions around the country and see what people are using. 50 fps is more in line with what you will gain in a new bow. I like longer brace height (distance between the handle and the string) for more smoothness and accuracy. Shor brace height is like short barreled hand guns, vs. longer barreled hand guns. Both are equally accurate, but which one is easier to shoot and hold well. Flinch

Let me assit by changing the context on this just a bit. There are not good bows for specific species. There are either good bows that fit and work for the individual or there are bows that do not fit and will not work right.

I shot about a dozen bows at archery proshops that were set up properly by archery pro's for my draw length and my prefered draw weight. Only after shooting and trying these bows was I able to see what I wanted and what "felt" right to me. I chose the Mathews Legacy. I could have bought a much less expensive bow, but they did not feel as good. Even though the arrow speed and power delivered was exactly the same.

I have to question how your drawing 75 pounds with a 29" draw and only getting 218fps? Your arrows are heavy at over 500 grains. Must be aluminum? I would change the arrows to carbon which will drop the weight to about 450 grians with a 125 grain Broadhead(plenty of weight) That would likely put you back up in the mid 250 range.

My legacy set to 65 pounds shoots 254fps with a 460 grain arrow. Becareful wich velocity number you reference as well. There are two different measurement systems for speed based on Arrow weight and draw length. I always refer to the lowerone as it's more realistic in actual practice. Don't get too caught up in the hype of 300 plus FPS archery gear.

Simply put I would adjust the gear you use now if it is with Aluminum arrows. You should be up near the 250 mark with 75 pounds of draw weight and 29" in length. I think my 27.5" draw(with a release) would max out at 275fps or so with my 460 grain arrows. My legacy will max out at 72.5 pounds.

I have never really needed more then 65lbs to kill anything and Ted Nugent only shoots 55 pounds so the draw weight is not the magic some claim it to be. It flattens out trajectory, and makes for very smooth release's but 60-65 pounds will kill anything alive when hit right.

I assume you shoot a release? only because most people do now. I have to use one because of an Elbow injury which prevents the use of my fingers to hold the string at any amount of draw weight. If you're shooting 29" draw with a release you must be pretty tall or have long arms! I'm 5'10" and shoot 27.5" with a release. The longer your draw the more push delivered to the arrow.

Brace height is also an interesting topic. Short brace height means more push and higher speed. In theory it also means more touchy accuracy because the arrow is on the string longer. I think that it's poor for accuracy only when shooting with fingers. If you use a release the arrow is so long gone before you move the bow I don't see the issue. I have shot a 6" brace heigh bow with every bit the accuracy that my 7.5" and 8.5" brace height bows have when I shoot with a release only. With fingers they all shoot worse for me! The Brace height issue is a carry over problem from the days of old wheel bows and recurves using Finger tabs and gloves. I don't see it as a significant issue with the cam style snap when you release the string today. One feature you should prepare for and select is the narrow valley with a dead stop in draw. The valley on my Legacy is about 1.5" wide. I'm pulling that weight for nearly the entire draw length until it's nearly full draw and the weight drops. At that instant I'm at the wall which stops my draw. This way I have a consistant dead stop for each shot. The very long push to the arrow with such a small valley really drive the speed up too.

I use a Martin Jaguar for bow fishing. It also has this short valley and dead stop. That is a hella nice bow by the way, and very affordable.

Rufous,
Not only will you enjoy the fps, but the quietness the new bows are delivering these speeds at is awesome. I currently own a Hoyt Vtec and have shot Mathews LX and Mathews Switchback and dont see how you could go wrong with any of these 3 bows.

I like a bow with a reflex or straight grip. Some of the faster bows have a lot of deflex, never liked the feel. I can shoot mine sitting, standing, twisted to the left or right, loose grip or tight, high wrist or low and the point of impact only changes about an inch at 25 yards...........short and light, and easy to shoot.........that is a perfect bow! and it will hit a square of two inch tape at 45yards with a snuffer.

hope I got the reflex, deflex thing right!

Rufous,

I live here in Tucson, and this is where the PSE shop is located. If you get a chance, do some research on the Archery Research (AR) Bows. They are made by PSE and are an awesome bow. They run about $650, but you will never have to buy another bow.
The IBO speed is rated at over 310 FPS. My buddy just got one, and I am seriously thinking of getting one.
I currently use a Golden Eagle and I have not had one complaint. it was given to me by a elk client. He dropped his elk at 60 plus yards with it. So I would also look at the newer Golden Eagles and see what they offer. Oh yeah, don't over look Bow tech either.
If I had to choose though, I would go with the PSE's Arhcery Research bows.
The number to the PSE proshop is 520-884-9201. They can give you more info then I can.

Enrique

Nope..........reflex is less forgiving than deflex. Most bows are designed with reflex in the riser in order to get max speed. Brace height rarely goes over 7.5" w/a reflex riser. With deflex BH's are common 8" or above. BTW, it makes no difference between deflex or reflex how a grip sits in your hand. That's simply which manufacturer has their head screwed on right or not!



X-VERMINATOR

Thanks, I always get them backwards!

While you're shopping take a look at Dartons.

With todays tec. any of the makes and models will work. go to a shop and see which one fits you the best.

rufous
I just gotta ask WHATS SO WRONG WITH YOUR CURRENT BOW, and the reason I ask is the bow I use is well over 10 years old, but its still able to place an arrow in the ELKS vitals at 50 yards and drive the arrow thru....I use a 32" draw and an 80 lb bow ,a jennings unistar, old tech, but I use 33"carbon arrows and have tried several broadheads, all worked.

point being that new equipment may be nice but practice and good arrows/broadheads would get the job done even with a longbow, so why spend a great deal of money, what do you gain, over your current equipment? if you say a few FPS your wasteing your money, even at 200fps a properly shap broadhead on a good arrow is deadly, if you say flatter trajectory, you just need more practice and better range estimation, most guys I hunt will seldom get shots exceeding 35 yards and darn few exceeding 45 yards.

OK LET THE FLAMES BEGIN

BTW don,t think IM just cheap! I own 6 EXPENSIVE COMPOUND bows, ones only 4 month old, a new BEAR, but none are any realistic improvement over the 10 year old jennings at killing ELK

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templa...ch-results1.jsp