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a lot of 260 shooters

Last edited by Spotshooter; 09/26/13.
GB1

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yep, and counting..

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130's and R22 anyone?

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Originally Posted by 16bore
130's and R22 anyone?


Its tough to fit H4831SC in the case for 130's. You might not get high fps with RL-22, you will run out of space to reach pressure. Could try it and see what happens!

IMR 4064 and Varget works awesome with 130's though.

551 yards / IMR 4064 39grs. 5 shots with cold bore. Doing work...

[Linked Image]

Last edited by trailrider121; 10/12/13.
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Can the 100g AMax be used as a varmint load? ( coyotes and smaller). Never seen this bullet in person.


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Recently ordered a couple of thousand.... some manufacturers list their 100 grain bullets as varmint bullets and some as game bullets...

Can't answer the question about being able to keep the hide damage down... but once again, there is also the 95 gr V Max, the 90 gr TNT and the 85 gr Sierra HP... reload manuals have those listed up to 3500 fps...

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108's and 95's have been good to me...

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My 24" Encore loves the cheapest of everything:
WW 243 brass necked up
CCI #34 primer
surplus IMR 7383 powder
PMC 139gr PSP
groups like this:
[Linked Image]

My DPMS LR 260 doesn't like anything so far. I have tried AA4350, IMR 4230, IMR 7383 and IMR 4064. Also, 140gr Sierra's, 139gr PMC's 129gr Hornady's and 120gr Rem's and Noslers.
Best I could get so far is 1.25" @ 100yds. I'll try H4350 and 130's next.


Some is Good---More is Better----Too Much is Just Right
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I'm not interested in saving hides <smile>. I won't a varmint bullet that does damage!


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Lapua Brass
123 Amax (Scenars shoot the same, per't near exactly)
44.0 Win 760
WLRM cap
Sucks SA mag lengthish...
right at 3k

100....

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

300...

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

3 @ 435... today....

[Linked Image]

5 @ 400-500...

[img]http://i352.photobucket.com/al...3-000001FAA64E179F_zps3dedf5a3.jpg[/img]

My favorite 5-shot group.... 300-400ish yards...

[img]http://i352.photobucket.com/al...4-0000007BBBBA483B_zps6ee2b94d.jpg[/img]






You better pray to the God of Skinny Punks that this wind doesn't pick up......
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Good shooting Dog. Have you been able to chrono that load in varying temperatures? I've always heard horror stories about the temp sensitivity of 414/760 (same with RE22, etc), but wonder how significant it is in the field.


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I've heard a lot of whore stories about temp sensitivity too.... but haven't seen it in the field. Note the Winny magnum primer in the listed load... I believe that has a lot to do with my lack of temp issues with W760/H414 (along with RE15/17/19/22).

Short answer: no, I've not run the load over the chrony in a veritable cornucopia of ambient temps. I game, however, shot many pounds of 760/414 with nary a notable issue afield.


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Hi Brad. You'll love it. Though I don't have one I load for my friends R Ti and use H4831sc and the 130-gr Accbond for about 2880 fps. Previously he used various 140-grs over the same powder for ~ 2800 fps.

Edited to say I initially thought H4831 would be too slow, but accuracy is good and velocity is where it should be; at least in his rifle.

Last edited by George_De_Vries_3rd; 10/14/13.
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I tinkered with 4831SC a little with 120TTSX, but ended up with '15. Didn't really give it a fair shake, but after seeing your numbers, Ima shake it again. Been wanting to try some 130AB's. If it'd eek out 2,900 with molyed 127LRX, that'd be some good juju....

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My favorite load for my 260 is 47.5 gr VV N-560 under a 129 gr Interlok. Fed 210M primer. I'd like to see how this load tinkered for the 130 gr Accubond would do...

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130 AB is an accurate deadly bullet, w/good BC, my go to over H4350

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Originally Posted by okiebowhunter
I'm hell-bent on jackin an elk with a 260 next opp I get.

Joseph


Piker.

I'm going for a moose. smile


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Originally Posted by 16bore
26 foot barrel might be overkill.


Probably penetrate well- maybe even over penetrate. smile


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Originally Posted by KJ_Garrison
Hi guys. Maybe this should be a new topic, but since my rifle is a 260 rem, I'll at least start here.

I notice that in this forum (which admittedly I have not read in it's entirety) and other handloading/reloading sites it is common for loads to exceed the "maximum" posted loads in the manuals by A LOT.

Has everybody REALLY started out at the manuals' starting loads and cautiously increased the load fractions of grains at a time up to, and beyond, the published maximums?

In a time where ALL the components are in short supply, is there a SAFE way to "get there" sooner? Or at least to get close to "there" so that the resources can be used more efficiently?

I see all kinds of guidance. Anything from starting at the minimum published load to starting a 90% - 95% of the published max load. I know, the min load is usually ~90% of the max load, but using 95% would save half the bullets, primers and powder.

And when I see that virtually everybody is using loads that are significantly above the published max loads, I wonder about trying 90% or 95% of these supermax loads.

I have a chrono and wonder if I shouldn't just make the jumps on powder charge based on how close to a targeted MV.

I also have learned that the best charge has to be found by testing on each and every gun, and I wonder about what range of velocities or range of powder charge less than supermax or maybe even published max I should do my ladder at.

I saw a post someplace that said to use a chrono and get up to 2775 - 2825; then fine tune.

My rifle is a Savage M12 LRP.


What's a chrono? smile I've never used one. Have no idea what either factory or reloads velocities are - nor care with one exception. If I know the vel, I can calculate the drop at range. Book value velocities are probably close, but not exact to individual rifles - especially since many of these are taken at alternative barrel lengths and ammo components.. Close enough to work with for drop, tho.

Velocity is virtually meaningless in hunting situations, within reason. Accuracy is what is important to me. Once that is dialed in, I can work with the drop, whatever it is for that caliber/bullet weight/powder charge - on the range if need be, tho book values seem to work quite well for my hunting purposes. But then I don't shoot itty-bitty critters nor beyond 500 yards on the big ones.

Those that do, have legitimate other criteria...

I've always assumed that book max loads are conservative, and when building a ladder, I've gone above them often enough.

I've never found a load that was more accurate above the book load - or even at the max book load. They have always been a grain or few under max book load. Rifles differ of course. Mine are all common beaters, but seem to kill things as needed.

I start out at 4 grains under max book, and go to 4 grains over, in 2 grain increments if pressure signs allow. Refine in 1 grain increments from there, but I've found that usually there is a slot of 1-3 grains in there that just doesn't matter too much for field accuracy. You can dink with half or quarter grain loads within the field, but I generally don't bother. Almost always, I wind up 1-4 grains under max book listing. I do powder charge/trickle with whatever I select to within .1 grain for my hunting loads. Probably not too important, but it makes me feel good. Neck sizing-only fire-formed cases has shown a far more significant increase in accuracy. Including for belted magnums. Perhaps especially so. My .338WM hunting loads are all shoulder head-spaced, with just a slight bump-back from neck sizing. Accuracy is noticeably improved (as if that matters when shooting moose at 70 yards..... smile )

I hate building ladders. My two best loads for the .338WM are junk loads I randomly threw together to get rid of some unwanted bullets. Both went sub MOA. I'm stuck with those rounds now, as they are just too good to shoot at anything but game. Probably gonna die with some left.... Damn! smile

Once I have the accuracy, I'll work the drop of same in hunting situations. It's not hard.

Currently, I'm using factory 140 Corelokts in my .260. My last 2 shot group at 300 yards went 2.2 inches, the 200 yard 3 shot group went 1 inch. From a snow machine seat rest. And I know the drop at 100 yard increments to 500.

The caribou don't deal with it well.

The only reason I'm going to work up a load is that it torques my ass to pay $40 a box....

From the stuff I've been reading for the last month on the .260, looks like I'll try H4350 first for 140 gr loads (preferred by the rifle, not me), and if that doesn't do "good enough", I'll try IMR 4831SC. I've a hundred count of Corelokts, and another 100 of Hornady to play with.


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Originally Posted by KJ_Garrison
Hi guys. Maybe this should be a new topic, but since my rifle is a 260 rem, I'll at least start here.

I notice that in this forum (which admittedly I have not read in it's entirety) and other handloading/reloading sites it is common for loads to exceed the "maximum" posted loads in the manuals by A LOT.

Has everybody REALLY started out at the manuals' starting loads and cautiously increased the load fractions of grains at a time up to, and beyond, the published maximums?

In a time where ALL the components are in short supply, is there a SAFE way to "get there" sooner? Or at least to get close to "there" so that the resources can be used more efficiently?

I see all kinds of guidance. Anything from starting at the minimum published load to starting a 90% - 95% of the published max load. I know, the min load is usually ~90% of the max load, but using 95% would save half the bullets, primers and powder.

And when I see that virtually everybody is using loads that are significantly above the published max loads, I wonder about trying 90% or 95% of these supermax loads.

I have a chrono and wonder if I shouldn't just make the jumps on powder charge based on how close to a targeted MV.

I also have learned that the best charge has to be found by testing on each and every gun, and I wonder about what range of velocities or range of powder charge less than supermax or maybe even published max I should do my ladder at.

I saw a post someplace that said to use a chrono and get up to 2775 - 2825; then fine tune.

My rifle is a Savage M12 LRP.


Every rifle is different ESPECIALLY to how it reacts to loading. If your ONLY goal is to save money, then bite the bullet and shoot factory. Otherwise heed the advice of others and follow your manuals. BTW, I've been loading since 1973 or 4. I ALWAYS start at the suggested starting load and increase at 1/2 grain increments till I find the sweet spot. I NEVER exceed the maximum. In fact, MOST of my loads are no where near the maximums listed in any of my manuals. DO NOT CUT CORNERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


NRA Endowment Life Member (and proud of it)


Nowadays people know the price of everything and the value of nothing.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something. - Plato

Deuteronomy 22:5



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