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and come to think of it, i have always been fond of flap holsters, as in the german WWII pancake holster which i understand was developed to protect a P08 from debris.


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Even the American Army uses flap holsters to this day.


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Hi Kevin,

I have had range malfunctions with two S&W revolvers both of which rendered my weapons inoperable. I have never had a single malfunction with a 5906 or a P-229. I'd much rather trust my life to a good-quality semiauto than a revolver. And when a semiauto malfunctions it's almost always the case that its easy to clear. However, when a revolver malfunctions and the cylinder won't revolve or won't unlatch, it's usually all over but the crying.


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Originally Posted by rob p
...He said one speck of grit in my nice tight double action and I would be bear scat. He called the Super Blackhawk the preferred berry picking gun of Alaska.


Hmmm. I'm always curious as to where this backwoods wisdom comes from... experience, or just rural legend? I'm inclined to believe the latter.

Where, exactly, does that "speck of grit" have to be? I've been shooting DA and SA revolvers in hunting and competition for 15+ years, we're talking 70,000+ rounds of revolver ammo downrange. The only times I've had a revolver of any kind fail to fire is when one of two things have happened: 1) the cylinder was jammed by out-of-spec ammo (high primers or bullet creep) so it couldn't cycle, and that has happened only a handful of times with reloaded ammo from another; and 2) when the timing of the revolver was off due to excessive wear of the cylinder's "hand" (it's happened with only one revolver I own, and that after tens of thousands of rounds fired through it). I've fired DA revolvers without cleaning them for several thousands of rounds just to see how dirty I could get them, and they still fired. Every time. I had one revolver (S&W 686) get splashed with mud and gravel during an IDPA match in the rain and although the action was gritty, it functioned just fine and I was able to finish the match. My favorite revolversmith and one of the best S&W-certified smiths in the nation, a retired cop in Indiana, has carried and shot S&W DA revolvers thru his entire career and in plenty of competition and training. He's never had one of his guns choke up because they were dirty, either.

So I would ask your lifelong friend, if you get the chance: where exactly does that speck of grit have to be to lock up a DA revolver? Because I haven't found it yet and I'd sure like to have the benefit of his greater experience in this matter.

Think about it. The only things that will render a revolver inoperable (short of a breaking a mainspring, something that will pretty much kill ANY handgun) are: 1) binding up the cylinder so it can't rotate, and 2)breaking the trigger-hammer connection. As you may or may not be aware, the only difference in the way DA and SA cylinders rotate on the pin is... nonexistent. They both rotate on a pin. Period. So anything that can block rotation of a SA revolver cylinder can block rotation of a DA revolver cylinder. As for breaking the trigger mechanism, the delicacy of a SA trigger-sear-hammer connection is no better or worse than a DA trigger-hammer-sear connection.

Sorry, but I call bullshit on your Alaska buddy's "revolver wisdom".


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Have to agree with Doc. The only times I've seen a DA revolver lock up have been either out-of-spec ammo, or out-of-spec clearances on the revolver - which were easily determined and corrected.

Even the model 60 that I bent the crane on in a motorcycle wreck still functioned well enough.

OTOH - if something is making the cylinder drag on a SA revolver (as I've seen with C&B replicas) you have only one source of leverage to hopefully apply enough force to overcome it with.

I'm calling BS on that bit of nonsense too.


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...there is one other problem that sometimes happens..ejector rod back out.... Cure is simple, but sometimes getting the cylinder out is not...especially if you don't have the experience of what is happening...


Bob



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Originally Posted by RJM
...there is one other problem that sometimes happens..ejector rod back out.... Cure is simple, but sometimes getting the cylinder out is not...especially if you don't have the experience of what is happening...


Bob



Yeah - thanks for reminding me. seen that once too. Right after a trip to the gunsmith. Fixed easily and didn't repeat itself.


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Originally Posted by DocRocket
Originally Posted by rob p
...He said one speck of grit in my nice tight double action and I would be bear scat. He called the Super Blackhawk the preferred berry picking gun of Alaska.


Hmmm. I'm always curious as to where this backwoods wisdom comes from... experience, or just rural legend? I'm inclined to believe the latter.

Where, exactly, does that "speck of grit" have to be? I've been shooting DA and SA revolvers in hunting and competition for 15+ years, we're talking 70,000+ rounds of revolver ammo downrange. The only times I've had a revolver of any kind fail to fire is when one of two things have happened: 1) the cylinder was jammed by out-of-spec ammo (high primers or bullet creep) so it couldn't cycle, and that has happened only a handful of times with reloaded ammo from another; and 2) when the timing of the revolver was off due to excessive wear of the cylinder's "hand" (it's happened with only one revolver I own, and that after tens of thousands of rounds fired through it). I've fired DA revolvers without cleaning them for several thousands of rounds just to see how dirty I could get them, and they still fired. Every time. I had one revolver (S&W 686) get splashed with mud and gravel during an IDPA match in the rain and although the action was gritty, it functioned just fine and I was able to finish the match. My favorite revolversmith and one of the best S&W-certified smiths in the nation, a retired cop in Indiana, has carried and shot S&W DA revolvers thru his entire career and in plenty of competition and training. He's never had one of his guns choke up because they were dirty, either.

So I would ask your lifelong friend, if you get the chance: where exactly does that speck of grit have to be to lock up a DA revolver? Because I haven't found it yet and I'd sure like to have the benefit of his greater experience in this matter.

Think about it. The only things that will render a revolver inoperable (short of a breaking a mainspring, something that will pretty much kill ANY handgun) are: 1) binding up the cylinder so it can't rotate, and 2)breaking the trigger-hammer connection. As you may or may not be aware, the only difference in the way DA and SA cylinders rotate on the pin is... nonexistent. They both rotate on a pin. Period. So anything that can block rotation of a SA revolver cylinder can block rotation of a DA revolver cylinder. As for breaking the trigger mechanism, the delicacy of a SA trigger-sear-hammer connection is no better or worse than a DA trigger-hammer-sear connection.

Sorry, but I call bullshit on your Alaska buddy's "revolver wisdom".


Doc:
That favorite gunsmith you mention, might he go by the name of WEDDLE?
thx


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Sorry, not Weddle. It's Reichard.


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Originally Posted by RJM
...there is one other problem that sometimes happens..ejector rod back out.... Cure is simple, but sometimes getting the cylinder out is not...especially if you don't have the experience of what is happening...


Bob



Thanks, that's a good point. I had forgotten about that one. It's not a common problem, and easily prevented by judicious application of a bit of Loc-Tite. I've never actually had this one happen to me, but I've seen it happen to others here and there. Mostly attributable to inadequate maintenance.

Actually, SA revolvers fired with heavy loads (Garrett Hammerheads, Buffalo Bore, or loads along the lines recommended by John Linebaugh and Paco Kelly) are very prone to unpredictable cylinder lockup. This is due to the cylinder pin pulling out in recoil. Anyone who's used a Blackhawk or Super Blackhawk with Linebaugh-level loads will have experienced this, unless you've only fired a handful or so. The bad part is that once it starts to back out with recoil, it gets worse quickly. And you're unlikely to know it's happening until your revolver locks up tight.

The solution is a Belt Mountain cylinder pin, which has a set-screw you can lock it in with. Unfortunately, if you don't have a Belt Mountain cylinder pin in your BH or SBH, you won't know that the pin is going to back out on you until it does exactly that. If you're attempting to defend yourself against a bear at that point, you're gonna be SOL because when it locks up it will lock up the cylinder bad enough you'll need tools to get it loose again.

Most of the dilettantes who carry big SA handguns stoked with heavy loads won't tell you about this problem because they haven't shot enough heavy loads in their guns to know about it.


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You talkin' 'bout me Willis? laugh


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Course not, dude!
laugh


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Yup, Doc that's true.

Years ago Wilson sold a spring kit that included a special heavy duty spring for the cylinder pin release or whatever it's called. I've never had a problem but I must admit I keep my loads in the 1200 FPS range. 1200 FPS is all I can handle in my 5 1/2" SBH. Maybe my spring wouldn't be strong enough to stop the cylinder pin from backing out if I was using the loads your talking about.


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Tim, I learned about this problem about 8-10 years ago, when I caught a bad case of gottahaveititis... I just had to have a Freedom Arms revolver in 500 Linebaugh. Can't remember the model number, I never actually bought it.

What I did was follow Linebaugh's advice and bought a Ruger SA Bisley, and loaded it up to "magnum" 45 Colt levels as recommended by Linebaugh on his website. He said if I could learn to fire that gun and load accurately and reliably, I'd be able to manage his 500 Linebaugh, but if my wrist gave up, I wouldn't have invested a lot of money in a gun I couldn't shoot. So I bought the Bisley and proceeded to shoot the daylights out with it. I was shooting 325 gr bullets over a max load of H110 for velocities in the 1350 fps range (my chronographed velocities, not Linebaugh's published numbers). I shot the cylinder pin loose within two weeks and had to buy a Belt Mountain pin to keep the gun working. It's functioned fine ever since. In fact, it shoots so well I never got around to buying that 500 Linebaugh from Freedom Arms.

I had the same problem develop in a Ruger Vaquero 4" that I wanted to carry with Garrett Hammerheads in it. IIRC, they were 240 gr bullets at about 1300 fps out of that gun, too. Shot it loose inside of a month. Belt Mountain fixed that one, too.

My concern is some nimrod buying a SBH and loading it with Hammerheads and thinking he's got a Sherman tank on his hip. It'll work just fine until the day it locks up, then God help him.

For any of these heavy-breathers, if you plan to carry it to save your life in a crisis it's mandatory to install the Belt Mountain pin, IMHO.


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The 500 Linebaugh cartridge will not fit in a FA revolver



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Could be, jwp. I haven't looked seriously at FA revolvers in quite a long while.

And it was a long while ago, somewheres around 2001. Perhaps it was a 475 Linebaugh. But Freedom Arms made it, it was reviewed in Gun Tests Magazine, and I developed a serious jones for one.

The point I was making was that before laying out the coin to buy one or to have him make me a custom model in that caliber, John Linebaugh advised me to find out if I could handle that level of recoil and blast in a relatively inexpensive handgun. Hence the start of what turned into a 5-year experiment in heavy 45 Colt handgunning.


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I agree with you advice about working into a heavy kicker, for sure and for certain. FA does make one in 475L. The rim is too large on the 500L for the FA platform. The 500 WE, 500 JRH and the 500AE work in the FA and are .500 instead of .510 as is the 500L



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Originally Posted by jwp475


I agree with you advice about working into a heavy kicker, for sure and for certain. FA does make one in 475L. The rim is too large on the 500L for the FA platform. The 500 WE, 500 JRH and the 500AE work in the FA and are .500 instead of .510 as is the 500L


That's right, I remember reading that now. That's what made me ask John Linebaugh about his 500L guns; I figured if the 475 was great, the 500 would be greater, right? Thank goodness JL was/is such a nice guy, and sensible to boot. I really enjoyed my 5-year sojourn into heavy 45 Colt handgunning, but in the end realized I don't need that kind of power for what I hunt with handguns. I'm now much more comfortable with more modest loads in my much more packable revolvers. But I learned a lot of good stuff during those days.


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John Burns posted over at the Fire about being at Ross Seyfried's ranch while Brian Enos was visiting. Ross invited Brian to shoot one of his new five-shooter Bisley cannon conversions. Benos shot a couple of rounds through it (he was one of the top 3-4 in the world at the time with a revolver). He handed it back to Ross and said, "That's a great way to [bleep] up 20yrs worth of trigger control".

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Originally Posted by Take_a_knee
John Burns posted over at the Fire about being at Ross Seyfried's ranch while Brian Enos was visiting. Ross invited Brian to shoot one of his new five-shooter Bisley cannon conversions. Benos shot a couple of rounds through it (he was one of the top 3-4 in the world at the time with a revolver). He handed it back to Ross and said, "That's a great way to [bleep] up 20yrs worth of trigger control".


Uh-huh. I resemble that remark!!! Enos was one of the best at that time, and IIRC he still shoots very well indeed in IPSC meets.

But seriously, learning trigger control on a hand-cannon is pretty much like on a magnum rifle, both of which will get fugged up every time you shoot trap or sporting clays, etc, etc.. You can't let it equate to your other firearms, and you've got to learn different touch for the different classes of firearms.


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