Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Remove speed bumps on my 700?

What torque setting do you use for ring screws? Action screws?

it's a proprietary setting NASA patented called torqued down as tight as they'll go with an Allen key I just bolt em down and call it good.

Thought I was the only one who did that.....

Dood heck no, I ain't into all the torque settings and stuff... i'm too impaciente for that. Heck, I can hardly let my paint dry before I'm bolting it back together.

The plus side for the bumps is they can shrink group size, but often only marginally so. In many cases it would be difficult to prove one way or the other.

The downside is that the stock-to-barrel contact can cause groups to wander with changes in the stock due to temperature changes, humidity (wood), etc. Zeroing my first centerfire, a Ruger M77 in 7mm RM, proved to be problematic � the longer I shot the more the wood stock heated up and the more the group moved up and to the left. After free-floating the barrel the problem disappeared. That rifle shot a 0.262� 3-shot group some 20 years later. For me it is more important that a rifle shoot to the same POI consistently than it have a marginally smaller group size.

Above I posted a target shot with a free-floated Remington M700 in .308 Win. Here is one from my free-floated Ruger M77 in .257 Roberts:


A 10-shot target shot in gusty 40+ mph crosswinds with my free-floated Ruger M77 7mm RM:


Here�s a 2-shot scope check target from a free-floated Ruger M77 in .30-06:


Here�s a 2-shot scope-check target from a free-floated �boat paddle� Ruger MKII in .338WM:


Only one of my rifles is bedded, a custom 6.5-06AI, although it is also free-floated. All the others are free-floated without bedding and I don�t worry about POI changes due to stock-to-barrel contact when moving from the last range session in warm, dry weather to taking a shot in cold, wet weather.

If it were me, I�d dump the bump. If accuracy isn�t what I wanted after doing so I would bed the action, something I�ve never found to be necessary . YMMV.

Better let Mule Deer know. He is gonna get in trouble with NASA for his term of "farmer tight"...

Generally:
Action screw on a wood stock: 35-40 inch/pounds
Synthetic (Quality) 45 no pillars / 65 pillars.
Tupperware stocks: 35 inch/pounds
Scope base screws and ring screws 10-15 inch/pounds (about 3 finger hold on a screw driver.
E-Mail any manufacture and they can give you specifics.
I bought a Ruger Hawkeye that the Gorilla at their plant assembled.
Rear trigger guard screw was finger tight.
The front trigger guard screw and action screw were so tight I had to use the tap and twist method to loosen.
Check even the new guns....

If it ain't broke...

My buddy had a 700 ADL in 7 Rem Mag that he removed the pressure point it ended up shifting point of aim a little higher, it didn't seem to help accuracy. If you are getting decent groups don't mess with success?

Tinker, tinker, tinker....it's just in me....

Question for you guys that have remmoved forend "bumps" from M700 thermoplastic "tupperware" stocks. Years ago - mid late 90's I did that on a M700 223 Stainless Syn with hinged floorplate - not ADL. Th forend flexed so much I couldn't eliminate the pressure point. I ended up shimming the front of the action with a pc of plastic like credit card or bottle mat'l and it floated. I didn't notice too much improvement, but some. I never did it, but I should go ahead and bed the action.

How do yout get the bedding epoxy to stick to the "tupperware"???

That bedding compound ( Acraglas Gel) will stick to ALMOST anything.....

Couldn't help but to go back to your original post.I want to bring up a couple of points,not criticism just points. 1. You are assuming that you poessess the skill to shoot smaller groups than what 99% of everyone else would be happy with.Have you thought of having one or several of your shooting friends who are very skilled try the gun and see if they come up with smaller groups ALL else being the same?The point being it sounds like you think you can run them all in the same hole and if it won't do it something is wrong with the gun? But no question of your own ability? Are you being objective? 2.Have you tried adj your seating depth,changed primers, checked the runnout and sorted the ammo into groups for the runnout it has?. 3 Lot of things to try first before you get happy with a Dremel tool and you have been offered a replacement stock for the cost of shipping to experiment on.
Like I said up front no criticism intended even though it may sound like that, but for a stock M700 and shooting 1/2" I don't know how much more you can realistically expect. All due respect Magnum Man

All great points, no criticism taken. I've played with various seating depths and 5 different powders, so I've well explored what it likes. My assuming I can shoot smaller is surely that, an assumption. But, I have shot much smaller groups with different rifles. I mentioned before that I'm likely just knit picking and should quit dinking around with it, and keep it bolted together. Thanks for your input.

Tanner, was that with the burris FFII scope you recently took off of it or with a new scope?

Yeah, tell me about it. Sounds like my first bedding job.... and that's what I was using.

I'll answer this q as soon as I can get back to the range, My CDL was shooting ok with the bumps,Too windy today.

I removed them and went for full free-float, I'm curious myself if there will be any change.

That's with a 3.5-10x40 with Target Turrets.

Thanks tanner..

Tanner no problem, those thoughts were sitting there, no one else addressed them so I brought them up. Every once in awhile I get a buddy of mine or 2 to shoot something I have when I am wondering me? or the gun? best of luck magnum man