Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Rifle barrels with button chatter marks + Dyna-Bore Question

Yes, the NECO abrasives kit (or pre-embedded bullet kit; I have both) runs from ~200 to 1200 grit, in 4 different compounds (2, 4, 8, & 12, basically). The Beartooth system uses a single compound of approximately 320 grit. NECO and Tubb (they look AWFULLY similar, but for the specific bullets used) both recommend and use jacketed bullets in centerfire rifle cartridges. NECO recommends soft lead in handguns, and Beartooth recommends only soft lead for all guns.

I agree with using a multi-pronged attack to address severe fouling problems (and pest problems, and all kinds of problems), and am in the process of implementing that strategy now.



HAHAHAHA!! That's funny!

Understanding how barrels are rifled helps to understand the solution.

The barrel is deep hole drilled first, then either cut rifled or button rifled. Hammer forged barrels have a perfect replica of the twist rate inserted into the barrel then the steel is hammered around that tool to form the rifling.

If you are trying to lap out the drill marks, you can forget it, they will mine copper. Marks left from a chattering button that ran out of lube from either pushing or pulling are equally difficult to deal with.

As the bullet passes these ridges in the bearing surface, it is like moving your hand across a saw blade...pick your saw, they all will remove skin.

While some of these barrels copper foul badly, it is no indication of how accurate these barrels may or may not be, but they will loose their accuracy rather quickly. I had one barrel that would shoot in the High 2's in 7 Remington Mag, then would go to an inch group on the 12th -15th shot. I would de-copper the barrel, back to shooting all the bullets in the same hole.

If your barrel shoots to an acceptable level of accuracy, I would invest the time in determining just how many shots you can fire before you start to loose accuracy. These hard fouling barrels will usually need de-coppering within 35 shots on the LONG side.

Then clean with an aggressive regiment, and this is just one example of what I found that works on these really rough barrels:

4 wet patches used with a punch type of jag
10 strokes of JB used on a Montana Extreme plastic brush or high
quality bronze bristle brush
5 wet patches of Montana Extreme Copper killer, let sit 15 min

Repeat brushing with Montana Extreme Copper killer with the
plastic brush on subquent applications.

I have fire lapped numerous centerfire and rimfire barrels. There is a learning curve to fire lapping barrels, make no mistake about that fact. Fire lapping removes metal, you can not put back the metal once it is removed. Fire lapping extends the throat dimensions quickly, so your bullet jump will increase dramatically.

It is just my opinion, that for everyone that has had successful atttempts in firelapping, there are another 10 people that have ruined at least one barrel. The 200grit in the Neco kit takes off metal REAL quick when using lead bullets, shooting more than 5 of these in the worst of barrels may just possibly ruin a barrel. I am not going to go any further in this whole fiasco of fire lapping.

To put things in perspective, if you have a rough barrel that groups well, you just invest in some great cleaning equipment and supplies.

If you are trying to fire lap in order to not have to clean your rifle, that is piss'en in the wind! You can fire lap the barrel, possibly ruin it, and you will still have a mother lover to get clean! Cleaning at the rifle range should not be a huge deal either.

The Subject on this thread should have been, "I have a rough barrel, what can I do so I don't have to clean it?"

keith,

Have you ever tried Dyna Bore Coat? I have now used it on three of these rough barrels, all of which shot well beforehand by fouled heavily really quickly, as in within 10-20 shots, and accuracy went south with the fouling.

After treatment with DBC, all three barrels could be fired several dozen times without accuracy dropping off, and fouling was reduced by at least 75%.

Thanks for the continuing report of experiences.

Mule Deer - I'd be particularly interested in how you prep a new floating bolt head rifle for DBC. I think I have this 223 barrel free of copper - using Wipe Out and a plastic Jag I see no blue, only a bit of pink and the barrel is so clean that some jags with a Pro-Shot patch cannot be pushed down the barrel.

So - how much farther should I go before DBC? Should I give thus barrel 100 strokes with J-B?

Today a bottle of Montana X-Treme Copper Killer finally got here - from Montana. I can do a few courses of that, if necessary.

Thanks

repeating - in case you have signed off of this thread.

Hi to Eileen ...

Thanks for the continuing report of experiences.

Mule Deer - I'd be particularly interested in how you prep a new floating bolt head rifle for DBC. I think I have this 223 barrel free of copper - using Wipe Out and a plastic Jag I see no blue, only a bit of pink and the barrel is so clean that some jags with a Pro-Shot patch cannot be pushed down the barrel.

So - how much farther should I go before DBC? Should I give thus barrel 100 strokes with J-B?

Today a bottle of Montana X-Treme Copper Killer finally got here - from Montana. I can do a few courses of that, if necessary.

Thanks

Roger Cox

Who looks everywhere for your articles including RLN... and reads every one of them. Your scientific approach is perhaps not found in very many articles from other writers ...

I have a bore-scope so just clean by whatever method until the bore is down to bare metal. Sometimes there's something left in there even after cleaning with many solvents.

But since most people don't have a bore-scope, I would follow the directions with the DBC. I wrote them and they work well.

Yes I have tried it several times, and I do understand how it work's.............................You and JB get paid to push it so it work's much better for you than the rest of us !!!!!

Wrong. I don't get paid to push it. I buy it in bulk and resell it in Canada because it's not available here otherwise, and I only started doing that after using it for several years, and I do it BECAUSE it works so good.

I don't believe that JB gets paid to push or endorse anything. He does get paid for his opinions and articles published in Rifle, Handloader, Guns, etc. I am confident that he reports the results of his experiences; this is not to say that he can not be wrong (and who isn't at some time?), but he is respected for his advice and honesty.