Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles Custom Rifles

Uh....I'd agree with you to a point, Allen. But Mark Penrod doesn't break in your barrel for you, and I'd use him again in a heartbeat. He will check function and proof fire it, but doesn't send targets or shoot it for accuracy.

Jeff

There's more Mythical Bullshit associated with "Custom Rifles",than most would care to know.

Yielding a sound tool do not require Yoda's guidance.

Some feel coddled,buying into these asinine notions and I say more power to 'em and to the gents fleecing them flocks............................

Water always seeks its own level. That's not only a law of physics, but it's a law of human nature as well. Most custom rifle BS stems from ignorance, inexperience and assorted insecurites -- it's as simple as all that.

AD

I concur in your analysis,that a good many Makers,suffer those very traits.

Humorous to me,that there are those bent on cutting checks,to feed them fires..........................

280Rem, you specified wood, which implies a blued CM barrel, and that you may want some engraving. I had an idea while reading the other responses to your question. You may want to contact one of the large gunsmithing schools, like to Colorado School of Trades, etc., and see if they've got a promising student who's short of money and needs a donor action and wood to work with. I don't know if this is really doable or not, but thought you may want to investigate it. I think I'd call and ask for someone in the gunstocking dept. It may just be happenstance, but from what I've seen, guys who are really good with wood seem to me to know the guys who do good metal work.

Where money's a factor, this MAY wind up freeing up some $$$ for other applications, such as your engraving. Re the engraving part, check out Ken Hurst in NC. His engraving is really top drawer, and I understand his prices are reasonable for a man of his talent, ability and reputation. IIRC, he used to be the head of Colt's engraving dept. and is now retired, or semi-retired I think??? Engraving is the one area you do NOT want to "cheap out" on. I'd just tell your engraver what you have to spend, and ask him what he'd recommend. They'll usually have a better "eye" for things, and a feel for what'll look good and satisfy you in the long run.

You just might wind up with a really nice rifle for a surprisingly good price. If you can get a student to do the work, you'd probably have to supply him with the parts he'll need, or the money therefor. Not a biggie when it comes to things like this, though, by any means.

It may wind up having a few little "[bleep]" in it, like a diamond in the checkering that isn't quite perfect, or little things like that, but you sound like the kind of man who'd take a fine rifle to the woods for USE as it was intended to be applied to. Good! I admire a man who'll do that. IMO, it's a dang shame to let a fine rifle languish in a safe. They're GUNS, and need to be USED, IMO.

And let me tell you, if you really WANT a wood and blued steel gun, the stainless synthetic may seem more "sensible," but it'll NEVER satisfy you the way what you WANT will - EVER.

Get what you want - EXACTLY what you want, within reason, of course, and never look back. A man OUGHT to have ONE really nice rifle in his life, and he ought to USE it, too. Of course, you'll take pains afield to do all you can to avoid any "damage," but an "honest" battle scar or two really shouldn't make you swoon. After all, it's a RIFLE, right?

Opinions are all over the place in these matters, and this is just my take on it. I've wanted one for many, many years, and FINALLY, it should be ready this spring. I think I'll take a deer or maybe two with it, and then give it to my son. With two young boys to feed an' all the rest, he'd never spend that money on himself, but he'd really love the gun, and would treat it right, and USE it, too. I think I mainly just wanted to build the rifle. Afield, I's just as soon use my newly "customized" '03 that I did myself, mostly, as anything.

This is just my take on it. Hope it helps at least a little?

Whatever you do, just know you'll need massive portions of patience, as likely as not. This is NOT a speedy process, and the time thing is the demon most wrestle with the most, and deal with only with difficulty, at best.

I've done lots of customizing and done two custom rifles.
First, settle on an action. Try Frank DeHaas's book, Bolt Action Rifles. I like the big four, Remington, Winchester, Sako and Ruger. For a big game rifle, I'd prefer either Ruger or Winchester. DeHaas's book will give you the strenths and weaknesses of all of them.
Select a barrel for it and send it to the barrel maker to have it fitted.
If you want nice wood, I hope you know somebody who does that kind of work if you don't. For me, I'd have to see the work and talk to the owners of the finished rifles. Getting a good, reliable rifle made with pretty wood is expensive and tough to do unless you can do the work yourself and know how to do it. But really dazzling wood can do for a rifle that nothing else can.
Frankly, I'd take a good look at some of the better rifles from makers like Kimber if I wanted pretty wood. Both Remington and Winchester have custom shops for this kind of need. Frankly, the fastest way to run up the cost of a custom gun up is to go with fancy wood.
I, too, much prefer quality synthetics. My synthetic stocked guns never change zero. Even if I remove the barreled action and put it back in the stock. Same zero, day after day.
Frankly, because the actions and barrels of today's rifles are so good, I'd buy a factory rifle, throw the stock away, and go from there. Particularly if I wanted fancy wood. Assuming of course that Kimber, Sako and the custom shops couldn't make me happy.
I'm also going to admit that my custom guns don't really shoot that much better than a well tweaked factory rifle. Tweaked means trigger job, or replacement, glass bedding and no cheap, moulded synthetic stocks. Maybe a new barrel crown, etc.
However, I got just what I wanted in specs on my custom rifles. Weight and lenth of barrel, stock dimentions, finishes, etc. The barrels clean up faster and stay cleaner. The rifles shoot different loads close to each other. And they are more accurate. It's lots of fun shooting groups that go down into the .2-.3's with light sporters. One to two inches will do, of course. Any decent factory rifle should do an inch or less with good ammo, or handloads, if properly setup.
So, would I do it again ? I'd make sure I couldn't find something that would satisfy me from one of the better makers. Then it would depend on what it was for. If wanted a really light, well balanced big game rifle, I'd do a Kimber Montana. But if I had to have a rifle with certain special characteristics, I'd probably go with another custom. Being a "rifle looney", I'd probably not be really happy/satisfied unless I did at least some customizing. E

a machinist can build an accurate barrelled action if he knows the dimensions even thought he is not a gunsmith. given good components, drop a custom trigger in it and a good fitting(or bedded)stock and you will have a shooter.the machine work in blue printing actions,threading,chambering and headspacing is(to quote a talented machinist)not rocket science. Very basic skill involved .We rifle builders like to keep it as magical as we can.Good for jog security.