Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Thoughts on Ruger #1

What's your experiences with the Ruger #1? I�m thinking about getting a Ruger #1 in .375 H&H for an all-around caliber.

I had one years ago, and it shot very well. I think you'll be very happy with it.

Have shot my buddies 1-H in 375, it hurts from both ends! It 'seems' to recoil harder than his 458 WM, 416 Rigby, or my 300 WBY.

It does have some great wood though.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but my reasoning behind getting a .375 H&H cause I�ve heard you can load it up with a 270 grain bullet and get similar ballistics of a .270 win. and you can load it up with a 300-350 grain and take down larger game.

Wow! Rather than going by "what you've heard", you may want spend some time studying.

Ruger #1 is a great rifle and the .375 H&H is a great cartridge that can do it all but I might look a bolt action rather than the #1 because it's going to kick like hell in a #1. With a 270 gr bullet @2,700 fps trajectory is similar to a 30-06 with a 180 gr bullet. I've killed buffalo, hippo, moose, antelope, etc with it and it's just a great cartridge, fantastic for elk as well. I've moved on to the .375 Weatherby just because I like to play with different cartridges but if I could only have an H&H I wouldn't be disappointed.

There are other chamberings in the #1 and other rifles chambered in 375 which will beat you worse than the #1-H 375. It's a very doable, learnable rifle/chambering combination. If you have any experience at all with bigger recoil chamberings, the 375 isn't all that tough to learn to shoot well.

IMHO, there is nothing in the USA that requires the hurt generated (on both ends) by a .375 H & H, except perhaps the giant bears of Alaska. In my magnum days, I owned several different .375 rifles. I found that the best part was that I could usually turn a nice profit on them. Great round, but far from an all around rifle, unless you live in Africa. Even there, one would want a double or a magazine rifle for dangerous game. Just my thoughts. Your money, your choice. jack

The Ruger #1 is a light package for the .375 H&H but the .375 has a tapered neck and body that does not deliver a sharp jab anyway. The recoil is quite manageable once you put a serious recoil pad on the rifle.

I have had shoulder surgery and avoid all the big boomers but I can easily shoot a box of .375 H&Hs w/o getting beaten up badly.

They shoot great groups -- often to the same POI no matter the variety of ammo --and are a pure pleasure to carry and use too. As a one shot hunting tool you will not even notice the recoil with that simple fix.

One thing you should know is that the long cases have a tendency to hit the safety on ejection and stay there. A simple flip of the wrist throws the empty case aside with almost no delay in reloading. It would be nice for Rugeer to recess the safety a bit but....they don't deem it a problem worth addressing.

Good luck,
1B

The range of opinions on recoil of a 1B in .375 H&H should give a warning to the OP as to whether or not it's the cartridge/rifle combination he's looking for; I have a feeling he may not be that experienced with rifles or with game animals.

FWIW, I've had three .375's: A Brno/CZ 602, a custom-stocked #1, and a SAKO AV Mannlicher. The #1 was the most uncomfortable to shoot with the full range of .375 loads, but still bearable. The SAKO is the lightest of the three, but also the most comfortable to shoot as well as the most accurate... and it's the one I still have.

There's a LOT of that on this board. A lot of crap gets repeated and regurgitated, a lot of basic facts ignored, a lot of basic common sense cast aside, etc.

Okay, my experience with a Ruger #1 in .375 H&H- it's very accurate and it kicks like hell.

For comparison - had a stainless Model 70 in .375 that weighed 10 lbs 5 oz, I could shoot it from prone without discomfort. 50 rounds in an afternoon were not painful, and one memorable afternoon I fired 80 rounds from all positions - standing, kneeling and prone - with no ill effects.

Had a Model 70 Safari Express .375 H&H with a wood stock that weighed just about 9 pounds. It kicked more, noticably more. 20 rounds in an afternoon was okay, 30 was enough, 50 rounds was not fun.

Had the aforementioned #1 .375 that weighed about 8 pounds all up with a scope. It kicked the snot out of me compared to the other two, but it would shoot three rounds under an inch. 20 rounds in an afternoon was all I could take. I fired 40 once and it was more a test of my pain tolerance than anything else. Whether it was the recycled tank tread Ruger calls a recoil pad or the stock shape, I don't know. I had bought it for the same reson you're contemplating, I had this "one round, one rifle, one world" vision in my head and that #1 literally knocked that vision right out of my head right quick. I sold it pretty quickly as well.

FWIW, I was a very healthy 49 years old at the time, stood 5' 11" and weighed around 185.

Thanks for the chuckle. I've not shot any #1's and the talk of recoil is making me curious. I have an 8lb scoped .375 that isn't uncomfortable to shoot, but the stock and recoil pad probably help.

lance1,

Welcome to the Campfire!

I see you've also been "welcomed" by some other members, with some already giving you grief. That's the way this site can work sometimes, unfortunately.

I had a No. 1 .375 H&H for several years and along with some hunting here in Montana took it on two African safaris, one just for plains game and the other including Cape buffalo. I left the factory recoil pad on, and never found it kicked all that bad. The load I used on the plains game safari was a 260-grain Nosler at 2700 fps, and on the other safari three different 300-grain bullets at 2600 fps, both fairly stout.

I suspect the fit of the No. 1's stock to individual shooters has more effect on felt recoil than anything else. On the first safari I used a Leupold 1.75-6x scope, and the rifle's weight with scope was over 9 pounds. On the second safari I used an New England Custom Guns receiver sight and the rifle only weighed 8-1/4 pounds. I couldn't feel any practical difference in recoil, perhaps because the No. 1's buttstock is actually a better fit with iron sights, with most shooters better able to get their cheek down on the stock.

I kind of regret selling that rifle, but another Campfire member, GuyM, eventually ended up with it and likes it a lot. he's only used it for local hunting in Washington so far, I believe, but there's no reason not to use the .375 for all-around big game hunting, especially if you handload. One of the loads I used here was the 220-grain Hornady flat-nose designed for the .38-55 Winchester at about 2000 fps. It worked great on everything from prairie dogs to deer, and hardly kicked at all. A 225-235 grain spitzer at 2900-3000 would be a fine load for almost any North American hunting, with a trajectory very similar to the .270 with a 150-grain bullet. The trajectories of the conventional 270 and 300-grain bullets are more like the .30-06 with 180-200 grain bullets.

Not that ya need it, but your stock continues to increases in value as far as I'm concerned.

One of my favorite rifles is the .375 H&H Number One that used to belong to John Barsness! I got crazy once and offered to sell it back to him. THANKFULLY he declined, I came to my senses and treasure that rifle. Some owner between John and me put a Pachmayer Decelerator recoil pad on the rifle, and it is pretty nice. I really don't mind the recoil at all. Was pleasantly surprised by what I'd describe as a big push, instead of the sharp recoil I was expecting. Yeah, it moves, but if a guy gives with it, no big deal. Typically I get about MOA accuracy, sometimes better.

Generally I shoot a load I also got from JB: 69 grains of RL-15 and a 260 gr Nosler Accubond. It's accurate as all get out and polished off a black bear at 306 yards in fine fashion. He managed to crawl all of about 8 - 10 feet after the Nosler went completely through him, wrecking everything in the path. Sad to say, that's the only big game I've take with the rifle.


Last summer though I had the .375 at the rifle range with a box of ammo loaded with the 300 gr Sierra. A rockchuck had the temerity to show himself while I was cleaning up and putting things away. For a moment I was unhappy, since I didn't have my varmint rifle along. Then I thought "Hey, there's a .375 in the Jeep." End of one rockchuck!


My son snapped this photo of me shooting it at 300 yards prone - which wasn't a problem. I use a 200 yard sight in distance, and the 300 yard gong rings easily enough, just aiming near the top of the gong. Maybe 9" of drop. Great practice since the bear managed to get shot at just over 300 yards!


A 100 yard sight-in target, from sitting, no bench, when I put the new 1.5-5x scope on it:


I've carried it on elk hunts and deer hunts, just for the heck of it, but haven't had a shot-opportunity while I've been carrying it.

Ridiculously large cartridge for deer, bear and elk? Yeah, probably, but it shoots great and sure is a lot of fun to load & shoot. The Ruger rifle itself is terrific. 1B pointed out that a spent cartridge case can get stopped by the safety. I've just trained myself to cant the rifle a bit when ejecting a spent round, and that works just fine. The short overall length makes a surprisingly compact hunting rifle. The accuracy is excellent, and yeah, I really like the way it carries and shoots. Somehow it became one of my very favorite rifles, though the cartridge is far more powerful than anything I need.

Regards, Guy

Everybody should have a "big" rifle as defined by the individual. I've owned a couple #1s in 375. Yeah, they kick a bit, but adding a good pad makes a huge difference, and they are good rifles. My current "big" is a 416 Rigby in the Ruger M77RSM magnum rifle. It weighs about 10 lbs and I would not want it any lighter. It's muy funo with reduced loads. That reminds me, I need some bullets for it.

Guy,

That's exactly the same technique I use when wanting a fast repeat shot with No. 1's.

I generally set the ejector spring so the case comes out and is stopped by the safety. This makes it easy to remove the case and put it back in the box, but if I need a fast repeat shot tilting the rifle a little dumps the case on the ground.
With extra rounds in the left pocket of my shirt I can get another in the chamber and be ready to shoot again about as fast as most people cycle a bolt handle.

I took my biggest gemsbok with your rifle on it's first safari. The shot was about 200 yards and the bullet landed at the rear edge of the shoulder muscle. I ejected the empty while tilting the action, then slid another one in the chamber, closing it and aiming again just in time to see the gemsbok go down after staggering 30 feet--so reloading didn't take long!

Thx guys, you beat me to it

Dober

Welcome - I currently have four No.1's, but none are in 375 H&H. I did have a No. 1 in 375 H&H for several years and liked everything about it. I shot one cow elk with it and then traded it off for a No. 1 450/400 NE when Ruger came out with those. Both of those cartridges in that rifle have more recoil than I like for volume shooting from the bench, but using them as they were intended to be used are not bad to shoot at all. The novelty of the 450/400 has worn off and I wish I had the 375 H&H back. I think if I were to do it all over again I would go with the 405 Win in that particular rifle, but none of the cartridges mentioned are what I would choose for an "all-around caliber".

Years back I had a Liberty model #1/375, one that got away that I wished hadn't of. Great yote rifle...grin

And, I concur with those that feel it doesn't have much recoil.

Dober

I had one....it was pretty.....can't say anything else positive about it!

I couldn't tell much difference in recoil shooting my No. 1 9.3x74 side by side with the No. 1 375 H&H. If anything, the 9.3x74 felt a little more "lively" due to the shorter barrel and lighter weight.

I have a SS/Lam No.1 in .375 H&H. Very accurate rifle with many bullets. Easy (though not cheap) to reload for and shoot with a wide variety of bullet/load/recoil choices available to the handloader. And even a 'downloaded' Holly is potent enough for anything in NA. Many here like the 260 Accubonds (I've shot the 260 and 300), but my friend informed me it is heresy to shoot plastic tipped bullets in a .375 H&H (so I went to the 300 gr Hornady RN and SP)!

The first time I fired mine I was in a hurry to try it out and had loaded up some 270gr Hornadys with a medium-strong load. It was snowing/raining and the wind was blowing about 20+ so I just wanted to zero the scope and try her out. It was my maiden voyage with a .375 H&H. I will admit to being apprehensive on that first trigger pull; after all, this was the "Queen of the Mediums" used to kill everything walking in Africa, etc. I was stunned by the gentleness of its push--with that load/bullet.

Now, truth in advertising, mine came with a brake on it and with the Viper 2-7x32 on it and Pachmayer pad it weighs 9.7 lbs. I don't mind the brake at all, in fact, when I used to shoot at the range I enjoyed taking it out when the guys sat next to me with their shorty black rifles and spat brass and concussion my way!

Anyway, with regards to recoil I've fired hot loads (300 grs @ 2600-2650) and it was manageable off the bench (I set up my rig to sit as tall as possible). Field positions were of no consequence. I could routinely dial turrets and hit my 12" plate at 500 yds with a good rest. I quit when the energy at that range was still sufficient to rock the plate enough to tip my stand over WITH sandbags on the feet!

Took it hunting and saw cows but could only shoot bulls so no blood on it yet. I've strongly debated selling it as I've had my fun and am getting tired of recoil. I really enjoy my .308 and .223 now. Besides, I just built a 9.3 and she'll prbably be my go-to elk gun. Of course, all these guys who are lamenting selling their .375's might change my mind!

You don't have much to lose to try one. They resell fairly easy at the right price and everyone should at least shoot or own a .375 Holly in their life. One of the most versatile cartridges ever and the No.1 is just sweet.

One more note on recoil. My No.1A in .35 Whelen was nastier to shoot with full bore 250 gr loads and vicious with iron sights (sub 7 lbs). My 9.3 (20" barrel and 8 lbs) is also noticeably worse off the bench with hot loads of Big Game and 286 grainers bu then none of them are really recreational rifles or volume shooters so take that into account.

Guy,

Love that bear rug with the No.1 on it--beautiful.

You wrote above:

" the .375 has a tapered neck and body that does not deliver a sharp jab anyway. "

That's wrong and makes no sense! The taper of a 'neck' or case body will not affect recoil. Nor does the round have a tapered neck!

The .375 H&H kicks pretty hard and will kick hard in a Ruger #1.

"Great yote rifle..."

Classic....

Savage 99,

Sorry, I should have said shoulder rather than neck.

But I still maintaion that H&H cases do deliver softer recoil than standard magnums in the same rifles. For example I shoot Ruger #1Bs in 300 H&H and 300 WM and I can fire a 300 H&H w/o any discomfort at all, yet a 300 WM's considerably sharper recoil wears me out fast.

The .375 H&H has only has the .375 Ruger Magnum for comparison AFAIK and this H&H too delivers a manageable push rather than the latter's sharper jab.

The most evident difference across the board is case design and this has to be a major -- if not domninant -- contributing factor in felt recoil.

1B

I can vouch for that.

I had a #1 SS/lam .375 H&H for a while, I also had a 700 XCR .375 H&H for a while. Bare, the Ruger was 9 pounds. Bare, the Remington was 6-3/4 pounds. I moved the scope from one rifle to the other, so that weight is the same, add about 15 ounces for bases, rings, scope.

I really like #1s but the Remington, despite being more than 2 pounds lighter, was a whole lot less unpleasant to shoot. I suspect this was partly stock fit, partly the flexibility of the body of the remington stock in addition to the much better recoil pad.

Tom

What a boob.

Thank y�all for the warm welcome. But seriously, I appreciate everyone�s advice. As you can tell I�m not all that familiar with big bore calibers. I�ve always thought the #1 was a sweet rifle, so I thought why not get a caliber to take anything from a bear, boar, elk or deer. It seems to me that I need to do some studying. Thanks again.

They make a sweet #1A in .30-06 or .270 that is basically the same setup as the .375 - Alexander Henry forend, barrel band sling swivel and open sights - and those chamberings will do all that you asked and be a lot easier on you.

That's exactly what I was thinking. And the 9.3, while "lively", holds a somewhat weak candle to the #1-S in 45-70 when loaded to capable pressures IMO.













This kid...my kid- all of ten years old then- had no difficulty dispatching this bigger-than-elk moose by himself with none other than the #1-A with a 270 chamber. That isn't to dissuade you from the 375 version, but you probably do want to keep this fun.

Any chance you would you consider adopting a soon-to-be 70-year-old?

There's just something elegant about a Ruger #1...





P

My #1AS??In 45/70 thumps me way more than My #1 375H&H.I have shot quite a few heads of game with the 45/70 ,but zilch with the 375.I would think about a 1A in 30/06.I rate the 1A equal in cool factor to the Win.Featherweight!!!

Lance, I wasn't trying to be an a-hole and I'm sorry if I came across as one. I just sensed from the way you phrased your question that you may be new to rifles and hunting.

You can see that there's a range of opinion on the #1 in .375. I feel the suggestion by Jim in Idaho to consider a .30-06 or .270 is a very good one: Ammunition will be much more affordable, allowing you to practice more and gain confidence; the calibers will be much more comfortable to shoot (developing a flinch right at the start sucks); and the game you mentioned will fall to either caliber if you put a good bullet in the right spot.

NO - when he can have a YOUNG 62 yrs old.

Bricktop,

Your all too typical descent into name calling and foul ridicule instead of addressing the issue at hand and then forging my name to a post falls a little short of your usual puerile vindictiveness. Just are not in top form today, or have you been taking your meds lately?

1B

Don't wander off, Granddad.

I love the #1's especially the 1S model, however while I don't see the 375 from the standpoint of:

To me a 375 is a dangerous game rifle namely the big bears in NA. I would prefer a repeater if I thought I really needed a dangerous game rifle.

Practically the 375 is too big for what is truly required for NA game so it is not what I would consider an all arounder.

If I wanted an all arounder for NA game I would probably opt for the 1S in 300 H&H and even that is a pretty big rifle but much more suitable for deer elk and 99% of the hunting we all do.

The #1's are GREAT rifles! I've owned a few, mostly the 1-S in .45-70.

I traded a Ruger M77 in .458 WM for my first 1-S (slightly used).
I loaded it up to just about 60,000 psi (according to Accurate Arms)firing a 500gr Hornady at a tad over 2000 fps. (Accurate was getting 2100 fps from their setup using a 24" test barrel at 63,200 psi).

My second son owned a #3 that shot the same load at about the same MV.

After that, I traded my #1 for his #3, then sold his #3 and purchased a NIB #1-S in .45-70. It would do the same as the former 1-S and the #3. Then, I had it slightly modified, or long-throated, or "improved" by increasing the throat by .30". A world-class gunsmith friend did the work for $75.

Ballistics were increased, on average, by 200 fps, but with slightly less pressure in using slower powders.

I've been toting it a lot over the past 11 years for anything from wolf to moose. Haven't shot either of those with it yet, but it works great on bl. bear!

As I get "younger" , and have the wisdom of the 30 to 40-year olds, I use mostly 350's and 400's -- granted, at insufficient speeds of 2500 to 2350 respectively for anything beyond 50 yards!

About recoil: everything is "standard" on this rifle except for the long throat. Over most of the years it carried a Burris "Silver Safari" of fixed 4X by 20mm. It weighed 7.8 lbs "empty" with nylon sling and scope. This year I mounted a 2 - 7 X 32 Nikon "Shotgun Hunter" because I do a lot of bear hunts over bait on the edge of darkness, and needed more light as I get "younger"

I don't shoot 500s anymore, but they generated about 75 - 80 ft-lbs in the "improved version". I shot a bear with that load and didn't remember the recoil... I also shot a coon with that load dressed in a light T-shirt. I felt it, but it was not an "earth shattering" experience.

True, I'm probably in better shape than most who are fast approaching their 77th, but I'm only average size: 5'-9" and 175 - 180 lbs out of the shower. (at one time I was 215!).

That's not to boast: I give God the credit, but I have to wrestle with my mind to try to understand where some are coming from when recoil is discussed.

I think JB has hit the nail pretty squarely again.

Bob

www.bigbores.ca

I have a few #1's ranging from .22 Hornet to the mighty .416 Rigby. Shoot a few from the Rigby and the .375 H&H feels like a pussycat. The .404 jeffery is mild campared to the .375 and .416 but that's because some yahoo put a muzzle brake on the gun. One thing I am looking for is an Alex Henry forearm that will be used on the .35 Whelen build I plan in doing. I have "B" moel in 30-06 that won't shoot worth a damn but has very nice wood in the butt stock. I want to rebarrel it to .35 Whelen with a 1 in 12" twist. One rifle I always wanted as one of thos Farquharsons. I always thought they were supper cool. I'm thinmy my #1 build with about a 27" barrel and the A. Henry fforend, decent iron sights similar to the period would maake me a reasonably nice clone of the "Farkie". I'd still go with a scope though as my 74 yeaar old eyeballs and iron sights just are no longer compatible. JUst my idea of what a good looking #1 should look like.
Paul B.

PJGunner,

I also badly wanted a Whelen in a #1 but not the SS/wood 1A that eventually came out of the Ruger works. I owned one of them for a while but never liked it and have since sold it and all my SS/wood #1s.

I later found a 45-70 1H for sale that had been rebarreled by EABCo to 218 Bee with the original barrel profile. (This was done because the factory issued piece developed a bulge in the barrel.) It has nice features -- near killer wood, trigger work, a Hicks device, and was reblued.

Anyway, I bought it for a good price and had it rechambered and rebored to .35 Whelen. It approximates everything I always wanted in a Ruger #1 Whelen while not costing much more than the K1As do these days.

Going after what you really want in a rifle actually works out sometimes.

1B

I'll comment on the .375 H&H cartridge, not the #1 rifle. As someone posted, such cartridges are often used for dangerous game and I want more than a single shot. Mule Deer may be able to to get a second shot off from rounds in his shirt pocket reasonably quickly but not nearly as fast as an experienced shooter can from the magazine. A double is faster still.

I have killed African game with .375 300 grain bullets ranging from impala--about as big as a white tail--up to elephant. I was not handicapped in the slightest. I believe that with a .375 I would not hesitate to take an elk with a Texas heart shot, as I once hesitated to do with a .300 Wby.

As for recoil, my .375 Model 70 is not unbearable. Recoil is A LOT less than my .458 Model 70. Felt recoil is less than my .300 Wby, probably because the .300 weighs less and thus recoils faster. If a Ruger #1 fits you, has a good recoil pad, and weighs the same, it should not punish you more than a bolt rifle.

The .375 H&H is truly an all around cartridge. Moreover, with a 300 grain premium bullet, you have an all around bullet, with the same load being useful for everything that walks smaller than an elephant. For them, you merely use a solid bullet with the same load.

Indy. Doing a fast reload on a Ruger Number One is not as difficult as you might think. Cartridge size is part of the program though, I can reload my #1 .375 H&H a lot faster than my .22 Hornet as the larger shells are a hell ofa lot easier to grab onto. I will admit it takes a bit of practice but a copuld pf minutes doing the motions slowly then gradually picking up speed and in less than 10 minutes you can be quite fast. There are several methods that work and by tryig each one you can find the system that works best for you. Some like the cartridges in loops on a belt holt with the shells space one shell, one empty loop, another shell, then empty and so on, the empty loop gving you the needed clearance to grab the next round. I like that one sometimes, depending on the situation.
Some like a wrist band with a couple of loops to hold the spare ammo. Never could get to thrilled on that one.
Mule Deer's shirt pocket is just a variation of the old African hunter's use of shell holding loops on his shirt.
The system that has worked the best for me is with one of thos shell holders that goes on the butt of the rifle. The belt holder works if you're basically shooting mostly off hand but becomes, at least for me, awkward as hell. The holder on the rifle's butt seems, at least so far the fastest method for me. Some people fashion a holder for a couple of rounds near the rear of the forend that holds a couple of rounds. I haven't tried that one yet.
Normally, whe I hunt with one of my Ruger #1 rifles, I use the butt cuff and the belt holder at the same time and they're used according to the situation.
I believe that a man who takes the time to practice just five or ten minutes a day with a couple of dummy rounds can easily stay up with the average man with bolt action on getting of a quick second shot if needed. I doubt though that he would ever get as fast as a target shooter with bolt gun in a rapid fire contest.
So, if given the chance, would I ever hunt something like a Cape Buffalo with my .375 H&H, .404 Jeffery or .416 Rigby Ruger Number Ones. Yes, I do believe I would. After all, a lot of African hunters used single loaders because they could not afford those pricey double rifles.
Paul B.

PJ,

You wrote, "I doubt though that he would ever get as fast as a target shooter with bolt gun in a rapid fire contest." Well, that's what I am. A lot of the NRA high power matches have rapid fire stages. No one ever uses a single shot rifle. The bolt rifles commonly (but not always) beat the semi-autos because their lock time is faster.

I shoot the same way in hunting. Rifle stays on shoulder. Left (non master) hand stays on for end and rotates the rifle to the right. Concurrently I raise my right hand and, in one rotary motion with the outside of my right hand, whang open and withdraw the bolt. Another motion closes it, pushed by the bottom of my thumb. Continuing this motion, my right hand rests on the stock and my trigger finger goes in the trigger guard, helped by the left hand rotating the rifle back into the correct position. Most of this while the rifle recoils and returns back down.

You see a lot of hunters take down the rifle from their shoulder (to admire the shot?), grasp the bolt with the thumb and forefinger, fiddle around getting a sight picture because their stock does not fit, and, in general, wasting time. In the cowboy movies you even see the actors take lever actions down from their shoulders to flip the lever, which is really dumb because one advantage of a lever is that you can stay exactly in your cheek-weld position.

I used to think I could get off the second shot as fast as a double rifle, because I'm doing all this bolt operating while the rifle returns from recoil. But lately I've been shooting Sporting Clays and doubles are definitely faster for the second shot. Basically, "fast" equates to "less motion." Also, with a single shot, there's always the danger of dropping a cartridge. A bolt action can have a feeding problem, though mine never have. A double doesn't.

You don't buy a #1 for it's rapid fire capability and you don't use a 375 H&H because of it's light recoil. If you want a rapid firing low recoiling hunting rifle, get a Savage M99 in .250 Savage. If you want a modern single shot that will kill anything, then a Ruger #1 in 375 H&H is hard to beat.

I only have one #1 and it i the #1H in 405 Winchester. I love the rifle. With full house #1 loads out of it, it comes back pretty good, but is manageable, and it shoots near MOA with almost every load I've tried in it. I topped mine off with a VX-II in 2-7X33 Leupy. Nice combination. I imagine the 375 would be as nice.

Mine have not been very accurate.

I did not intend to give anyone grief. I admit .375 to be a great chambering , but still contend that it is not an all around cartridge for this country. Recoil did not used to bother me much, but as I get older and less flexible from nature (and arthritis), I can tell the difference.

I am not sure what OP ment by "all around" but, if a one rifle battery is his thought, NOT. A .375 is a valuable addition to the all around hunter that travels to wherever. I still contend that it's usefulness is not required in this country. But the same could be said for my No. 1 S-C .45-70. As a gun pusher friend of mine frequently asks, "What does need have to do with it?" Again, Your money, your choice. Still you can kill stuff all over this continent with less horsepower. jack

Bought one from a guy wandering the aisles at a gun show several years back, despite it having a muzzle brake on it. Put a 1.75-6x Leupy w German No. 1 on it and soon slew a couple of Tenn. WT bucks with Fed 270 gr. PowerShok ammo. Use the 'fire Google and search for "A Damned Adequate Whitetail Round".

It weighs nearly 10 pounds, recoils like a 20- ga. And shoots about 1-in. + or -. It's been in the safe for a couple of seasons and I might sell it for a reasonable amount. Send me a PM.

BTW I took the brake off for hunting, and I use a bubba cuff from which it is quick to reload. As an earlier poster noted, practicing this (or any motor skill needed to shoot or hunt) is a dandy idea before your trying to kill something afield.

Indy. I never said I would ever get as fast as a train rapid fire target marksman. My point was with a little practice you could rapidly reloa a ,in the case, Ruger #1 just about as fast as the average bolt action shooter. I hear you about them dropping the butt from the shoulder to admire the shot but that's something I don't do with my bolt guns. do far I haven't found a convenient way to rapid reload my Rugers while keeping the but on the shoulder. Seems like my arms just ain't long enough. One of the things you do have to learn though it to keep your eye on the game while doing the reload. That's where the practice really comes in. Neck sized brass that might work just fine in a bolt gun is a strict no no. During part of the reloading action, the muzzle must be pointed down at an angle steep enough for that properly sized round to literally slide in easily strictly by gravity. One of the reasons I prefer the Rugers is thee's no hammer to mess with. My browning B78 drops the hammer to half cok when you close the actio and it'd a real bear trying to get my thumb under the scope to recock the hammer especially if it's cold and I'm wearing gloves. On those days that one stays home. Anyway, the challenge is to take your game with that first hopefully well aimed shot. Right?
Paul B.

Strange. My B-78 stays fully cocked and others I've observed at the range do too.

A better all-around rig might be the same rifle in .30-06, a fair bit lighter, and without all that power. I'd like to get a .30-06 Number One to go along with the bigger rifle.

But for now, I'm sure enjoying the .375! Have enough bullets to continue handloading and hunting for another lifetime or two.

Cold Case: Great photo up there with the bucks and the Ruger.

Regards, Guy

Guy,

I've owned and hunted with a number of No. 1's, from .22 Hornet to .450/.400, and agree completely, especially in North America. Actually, my favorite No. 1 for general big game hunting right now is a .25-06, a 1AB special-run from Lipseys with fancy European walnut. I'd certainly hunt anything in Montana with it, unless we get a grizzly season again.

That said, it's still hard to beat a .375 No. 1 as an all-around rifle. I've asked a number of the African PH's I know whether they would guide somebody who wanted to use a single-shot on Cape buffalo, and I can't recall one who said no. In fact most said something like, "Why not? It's the client's hunt, and the first shot is by far the most important."

John, you are pushing the right button to get me to take my
European walnut stocked (mines is handsome, but not fancy) No. 1 AB out for blood next week. I have a box of 110 Accubonds freshly stuffed. Got to hang the scope and sight it in first, but all the parts are in stock in my "good junk" box.

Boss rancher says there is a good buck waiting for me to tag him. S-I-L says there is another good one on the Texas side of his place waiting for me. (OK's regulations are strange to me, but I may have to get more fluent in Okie.) jack

Jack,

Sounds like a No. 1 opportunity knocking to me!

Uh, nothing "strange" about them. 2012 gun season runs 11-17-12 to 12-2-12. You are allowed one antlered deer and at least one antlerless deer. (Antlerless deer days and limits vary.) Non-resident fee is $280 if you are only hunting deer.

Thank you for the compliment, Guy. I try to take good photos of the game out of respect. In fact, I hate my little profile shot shows my best Tenn. buck to date in the back of my truck, but it's the one that shows his rack to best advantage.

Back somewhat on track, though, I just realized my Tropical might make the ideal twilight rifle for that deer's nocturnal grandson I'm wanting to clip this fall.

Need to swap out the 1.75-6x out for an 4.5-14x50 AO/IR I've lying unused at the moment.

If JB is still following this thread (or anyone who is that knows) I humbly request that pet 220 mild load recipe.

Was thinking about putting that big Leupy on my .358 Frontier or Marlin Guide Gun for a twilight tree hammer, but the Tropical could certainly do the deed.

The idea of a super-sized .375 Winchester singleshot (or the snubby carbines) with a moonscope tickles my fancy.

Unless the OP wants to tickle his itch for a 1H Tropical .375...

Or anyone who wants to trade for an International No.1 in '06 or the stainless 6.5x55.

There's a lot to be said about keeping one's eyes on the game. Many novices look at the rifle instead when reloading. My concern on DG would be dropping the round. On three occasions--two cape buffalo and a hippo, I have exhausted the magazine (three round magazine) on a bolt action and had to reload. On one of these occasions I dropped the round in the mud. OK, a very short time later I got one out of my belt wallet. I also refill the magazine before approaching any game I have shot. I admit I keep shooting more than might be necessary--as long as there is any movement--because trophy fees are very high if the game escapes and because it's dangerous. None of this would apply for most North American game.

ColdCase,

Try around 35-38 grains of IMR or H4227 with the 220 Hornady.

We have 4 #1's in the safe....a pair of 7X57's, one is the wife's everyday deer rifle and one I used for deer for about 15 yrs running. They are nice handling, accurate and downright just a nice blind rifle. Accounted for about 23 bucks between us. I also have a 7mm rem mag 1B (won in a raffle) and a 300 Win. Mag 1B that was a Christmas gift from employees in better times. I'd never part with the .300 for that reason...but neither of the Mags ever got the work up they deserved. The #1 is still one of my favs......

Lance1,
You didn't mention if this would be your first rifle or your only rifle.
If you handload and use a 200 gr Sierra flat nose recoil would not be an issue and it would be a fantastic deer rifle. Try 40 hrs. Imr 4759 @ 2200 fps it will be fun to shoot for practice.
Recoil with factory ammo shouldn't be an issue because you should be doing your
practice shooting from the standing position anyway if you will be hunting dangerous animals.
whelennut

This wouldn't be my first rifle, currently my hunting rifles consist of a .243 & .308. Besides considering the elegance of a #1; I'm right handed & left eye dominant, & a #1 would allow me to shoot ambidextrously while considering the move to full time left hand shooting. As for the caliber choice of .375 h&h, I'm still debating. This past weekend, I was able to shoot a #1 in .375 h&h and I really didn't think it was all that bad (270 grain bullet; unsure of powder). But then again for the past several years I duck hunt with a 870 shooting 3.5" shells. I pretty sure I'm sold on the #1, I just need to figure out the caliber choice. Thanks for the input.

keeping your target in the scope with your 458 is something few can do. I can't keep a moving target, especially in head high brush scoped after recoil. I can have trouble followng game even without recoil. I'm guessing you would have had to have shot thousands of rounds to acquire those skills.

Thank you, John.

Bricktop, the 300th meridian runs through the ranch. In addition to the basics you mention there are numerous differences between the regulations in TX/OK, down to shooting coyotes as varmints. Just a few involve legal shooting hours, blaze orange, vehicle utilization, land owner/tenant exemptions, and the list goes on. Fortunately, most of the state line has been bull dozed or brush hogged for easy ID, but the south mile to mile and a half is very rough country and unless you are looking at a GPS device, it is easy to stray.

It is just simpler to use food plots and feeders to lure the Okie deer across the state line. Longer seasons, shooting hours, and I have a lifetime of what is kosher imprinted into my brain. Small changes are easy to adjust to. Major changes, not so much. Or maybe it is the other way round?

Next time I am out that way (I am going to hunt boss rancher's place in TX this weekend), perhaps I need to sit doen to a coffee with an OK warden. Sometimes the computer/printed regulations are interpeted a little differently in real life. (Two things that come to mind is the coyote thing [a furbearer] and the handicap registration for my Mule. [TX does not register Kawasaki Mules, without modificationsto get street legal]). jack

lance1:
Don't overlook the #1 S in 45-70. It looks like the Tropical and is lots of fun to load for.
whelennut

You think you're quite the deep thinker and you're trying to make things complicated when they're not. "The list" exists within your head. It takes about a sixth-grade education to 'cipher Okie hunting regulations; maybe that's all you lack. The nonsense you enumerated? LAUGHABLY ABSURD. At best. (Actually, it's just STUPID.) There are no regulations on "shooting coyotes as varmints," that's something silly you invented. There's no season or limit on coyotes in Oklahoma. Hunter orange is 400 square inches on Oklahoma, just as in Texas.

I'm not sure what you expect to accomplish by having "coffee with an OK warden," other than to let him know you have a high opinion of yourself.

Had a #1a in 243. Thing grouped like a shotgun, was loud, and actually kicked hard for a 243. Hated that gun and so I sold it. Replaced it with an M77MKII and never looked back.

I admired the Number One when it was first introduced but didn't get a chance to buy one until 1971 when I bought a 1A in 30/06. It was a very nice rifle which shot poorly but gave me a chance to figure out what a Number One needed to shoot better. I got it shooting well then traded to a fellow who really wanted it and traded me a brand new 1B in 6mm Remington plus some folding money for it.
The 6mm was a great rifle and I hunted with it a lot (enough to decide I didn't like 6mm's for big game)and shot it at turkey shoots all over and won a lot. I finally burned the barrel right out and decided to go bigger so I re-barreled it to 45x2 7/8. As I recall, my best load was 86 grains of H322 and a 350 Hornady. Velocity was near to 2700 fps.It kicked plenty but was not all that unpleasant to shoot. I never got to shoot anything but a black bear with it but the black bear seemed satisfied with the performance.
I like the Number One although I would look for early models if I was wanting to buy one. The fit and finish prior to 1975 is far better than the later rifles. I have one now which is a later model and it will take at least two days of remedial work to make it acceptable.
I really think the medium bores are best suited to the Number One but I think they are the best for everything. I would feel pretty good about a 338 Winchester, I think. GD

Bricktop, you are the one trying to simplify things. You are wrong on hunter orange as a general requirement in Texas. Orange applies in Texas only on public lands. There aren't many! OK requires orange everywhere. I understand the differences. In our case, a few steps one way or the other makes things either legal or illegal. That is basically my point. Pardon my bad example of "not speaking Okie." Let me change that to not speaking "brick." Good day, gone, got to get my pack together. jack

Don't have to simplify anything. I read things for what they are, I don't try to create smoke where there ain't fire, which is exactly what you're doing. I don't assume there's some kind of tea leaves and tarot cards that need interpreted.

Since you're so hung up on semantics and minutiae, WHEN REQUIRED, hunter orange is 400 square inches in Oklahoma and in Texas. Savvy? Nod your head if you understand. However, the point I made remains as solid as a rock -- like what occupies your head -- there's nothing complicated or strange for Okie hunting regulations. Period. It's merely a matter of paying the necessary fees. Exclamation point. I explained this all to my dog and he understands. I think he can concentrate because he's neutered. Maybe that's your hangup.

Bricktop them texan's set on top of a 2 ton corn pile thats yellow. Maybe thats why they dont need it!

jt402, i think you mean the 100th meridian if you are talking the line between okla and texas, not the 300th

I have a 1-H in .375 H&H that I bought used about 5 years ago. The first things I did to it were to install a 16 ounce mercury recoil reducer in the butt stock and replace the original recoil pad with a Decelerator. The additional weight of the mercury reducer in the butt improved the balance of the rifle tremendously as well as helps to reduce felt recoil. Rifle is a dream to shoot.