Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Single Shots Ruger #1 or #3 conversion to 22 long rifle?

Howdy
As of late a nice 22 has come to the top of my list. As a lefty i was never really impressed with bolt guns however I own a few. A few weeks back I saw a ruger #1 converted for 22 rimfire. Is there any experience here with such a critter?
Thanks Chris

Being a lefty myself, I feel ya and would love a fine rimfire as well. I know there has been a lot of controversy over Cooper rifles, but they offer a gorgeous rifle in all four of the rimfires. I imagine that after the price of a #1 rimfire conversion and maybe a few more dollars, you could have the Cooper...and its a repeater. That is, if you want a bolt action but just haven't found one yet. If you are a single kind of guy, a fine #1 would command just as much respect in my eyes. Sorry, I do not have any info on the conversion though.

I saw one in Cabelas,Michigan a few years ago,it was well done,but heavy.But it sold quick as I recall.It was done by a gunsmith ib PA.I think he may still advertize in Rifle or Handloader??

I purchased an action with the intention of turning it into a 22lr rifle.
Then I had the oppertunity to play with one that had already been converted.
I am now looking for a Winchester or Browning single shot 22lr.
The No.1 action is too large for this conversion in my mind.

My pop said it looked like it would be very hard to load under a scope. just wondered what you guys thought.
Thanks Chris

I just completed a rimfire conversion on a No.1 in 22lr using a Bentz reamer I had. I made the breechblock lifting arm from scratch using specialized holding fixtures on a lathe and a lathe milling adapter. Mainly to prove concepts with a test mule, a no1 action, and to learn about fixturing for a smallish, fairly complex part. The extractor also has to be updated to work with the fully supported chamber of the 22lr; not a big deal there design wise, as there are lots of rimfire extractors used in the gun world as a guide.

The rear of the breech will be flat usually. The breechblock sets up again the breechface tightly, ie zero gapspace or thereabouts. The tenion is 0.995" in diameter, so the 22lr hole is in the middle usually, and the lowered breechblock does not aid the insertion of the rimfire 22lr case, as the top of the breechblock is made for centerfire, smallest being the production hornet. Of course there are smaller in the wildcat world, but you get the picture. With the modified arm method, the breechblock is lowered even further than in the factory centerfire.

When I was shooting my prototype with scope, I did not feel it was too hard to load, just my opinion. Everyone has his/her own opinion about what is hard to do.

Planning to move onto another way to do the conversion, which is the breechblock firing pin location movement. A bit more elegant than the lowered breechblock cosmetically, just my opinion of course.

There's a guy on the Yahoo Ruger #1 site that has one. You might drop him a line.

If you got the money honey, I got the time. - anonymous gunsmith

Ive been wanting to do a Ruger #1 conversion on a varmint #1. 22mag maybe... is it easy or hard to load and unload?
Hows the accuracy?

Here is a video on such an conversion. It shows the ejection of a spent case on the fly, looks like a mag to me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDf_J7k2Zag

These folks appear to offer a conversion if you choose to look at their wares. I have no idea of what it looks like for real; never persued it further as to content. Just thought it was interesting on a subject that is hard to find worthwhile info on, I have no idea of how the conversion is, works, etc etc.

I have done both the lifting arm and movement within the breechblock itself conversion styles; never done an offset shank. I did the lifting arm first(made the arm from scratch), but have come to the conclusion that the firing pin movement within the breechblock is the way to go. Once you have a conversion, I think you will enjoy it. Feels like full sized rifle in my opinion.

The 22lr takes some dexterity to load, but not a big deal. I would think that the mag or HMR would be easier to load(longer case), with the accuracy going to the 17's because of their bullet.

I am starting to think of a switch barrel no.1 in 22lr/17HM2 and a secondary No.1 in 22mag/17HMR FWIW. Could just have four conversions, but now that Winchester is bringing out the 17 super mag rimfire, perhaps a fifth? These things never end, and glad of it.

One thing about the no.1 action, it is very flexible, and relatively easy to convert in caliber, even the rimfire application.

I have yet to start the project, switch barrel is the thought but centerfire to rimfire, lots of thoughts but nothing in stone yet.

Trying to locate a friend in SE Washington State that does this. I've lost all my contact info.

Likely the 'smith was J. Korzinek. He used to advertise these conversions in Handloader and Rifle magazines. I've not seen his ad's in several years. I heard he'd retired

Wayne Schwartz used to advertise in same, and he's done a lot of them. But he's retired also. I stopped to see Wayne about a year ago, and asked him to build me Martini, but he refused. He's well into his 80's and still trying to finish the projects he wants to leave his grandkids...

GH

Marlee Parks is the man!

Why don't you consider an 1885 in 22LR. There have been some very nice Low Wall Winchesters produced in the past few years.

An Encore in 22LR is also possible and could be had with some very nice aftermarket wood.

Converting a #1 to 22LR would tend to be a very expensive proposition considering the rebarreling, the extractor rebuild, the new drop block required due to rimfire firing pin and hammer and trigger re-engineering required. Unless you have a very deep pocket there are some better options available for a classy rifle.

With a rimfire in the No.1, I much prefer the movement of the firing pin within the breechblock.

One can use the factory firing pin within a bushing that is silver soldered or adhered in the new postion. Basically a 0.1" firing pin movement dependent upon the particular No.1 being worked on, all are slightly different in initial centerfire strike. With the bushing being used to house the firing pin, slight adjustments can be easily done for precise hit on the case proper. You can do so with an offset hole in the bushing if required.

The Shilen #4 taper lays in the No.1B forearm tightly without wood removal if you cut the shank in the right spot. Once the blank is trimmed to 1.150" or so, the no.1B rib lays on nicely for drill/tapping without gap. I just fill the guide pin holes in the rib and do not bother with those holes in the barrel.

The extractor needs a new hook, longer in length to reach towards the fully supported rimfire chamber. Of course a lot of ways to do the extractor and firing pin(s).

I see that Winchester has a listing for the new 17WSM with their little single shot rifle, so have to order another #4 barrel for that new case and see how it is.

Of course, one can do the no.1 conversion with the other methods, lifting arm being shortened or offset barrel; if those methods call for you. I have tried the lifting arm, and is ok, but I could never get around the cosmetics of the block sitting low.

The project is not that much to do if you do the work yourself, a $200 barrel blank(if that much), and your labor is about it. I have $650 total in my 22lr conversion that I recently redid the blue in slow rust blue.

Makes a full sized rifle, feels like a rifle.