Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Bowhunting Longbow, or recurve?

Longbow versus recurve distinctions become very blurred when you compare modern three-piece takedown longbows (with sight windows cut well past center) with modern recurves. I like (and my company makes) both. The key is to grow your knowledge base because shooting traditional archery bows is a lot like (I think) playing a guitar or a piano. Some are clearly "better" from an objective point of view than others. But once you get to the upper end of capability it boils down to subjective things like feel and touch and karma. Enjoy the journey!

John

Those new-fangled recurves will never catch on.

I prefer recurves but I have a Quillan Long Hunter longbow (the red elm/glass version) that is 63# I think. Not much use for it so it will go on Ebay tomorrow. If anyone wants to short-cut that, I'll take $250 (and shipping) for it. It's in near new condition.

If you have been shooting compounds it will be much easier to make the transition to a bow with a similar grip. It will not matter if it has recurve, longbow, or extreme deflex/reflex limbs.

I echo the lower starting bow weight. I would also go with a longer bow. 64" longbow or 62" recurve. That is if you have an average draw length around 28".

Since it is your cousin, is there any way you can go up to his shop and shoot some bows? That is the best way to decide what you like.

I like longbows..as long as they are recurves. I shoot 64" recurves which are longer than most longbows these days.

Best thing to do is shoot both and see which grip and how large of a sight window you like best.

My suggestion is start with a recurve as they are more friendly/forgiving. Once you've perfected your form with the recurve then tackle a longbow. Start with a weight you can handle easily. Remember speed and lbs of energy doesn't apply hear. Shot placement, sharp steel and bleeding out are what get the job done. #40-#45 lbs is fine. I will say this, once you start shooting traditional bows you will find that you enjoy shooting more. Shooting compounds became boring to me as it wasn't a challenge anymore. My last compound was a Matthews Q2XL circa 2000. I bought my first recurve in '98 and quit using a compound about four years later going to traditional exclusively. I also hunt from the ground and not a tree stand. I don't care for the steep angles when using a 62" bow in a steel tree stand. Either are extremely effective in the right hands.

Would a recurve be a wise choice for a first time archer? As long as said archer is aware of the limitations of his weapon?

I think sticking an Elk with a recurve at 15yds would be incredible.

JWP58,

A few years ago there was no option other than traditional archery. It's more demanding and requires more practice but heck yes - it's a perfectly fine place to start your archery journey.

Average kill shot distance with trad equipment was 17 yards a couple years ago.I assume it hasn't changed much.

You need to be committed to practice more than is necessary with a compound but 15-20 yards should be a piece of cake.Just use a moderately heavy arrow and cut on contact non expanding head.When I am shooting regularly,I could hit a soft ball 99% of the time at 20 yards and a miss would only be by inches.Probably hit a quarter about 30% of the time at 20 yards.

The appeal of trad archery to me is the dedication necessary to become extraordinary.It makes you a lot happier over a great shot because you know the dedication that it took to make.

I can hit an 8" pie plate a lot farther out than 15 yards. Consistently closer to 45 yards. I limit my shots on game to 20 and if I can hit pressured whitetail at that distance I'm sure an elk would be about as difficult. My recurve runs about #65 at my draw length. Not saying a #45 bow would be suited to hunting elk in fresh hands but it would do for deer with practice. I'm sure many elk have fallen to traditional equipment and I wouldn't shy away from an elk with mine.

65# is fine as long as the weight isn't a detriment to accuracy.Unfortunately it is for most people,at least when first starting.

I know a bowyer who got full penetration,double lung,on a large bull elk with a 40 lb recurve at slightly over 20 yards.As long as you use legal weight,a moderately heavy arrow and a good cut on contact head,a good shot is a good shot.More poundage won't help a bad shot and it is easier for most folks to shoot less poundage.

I've shot wall-to-wall through Alaska/Yukon bull moose, cutting a rib on entry and cutting a rib on exit with a 50# recurve. As R.H. Clark says, the key is to use a heavy/moderately heavy arrow with a good cut-on-impact broadhead and you will have NO problem getting complete passthroughs. Heck, back in the 50's and 60's a 55# bow was considered to be Kodiak bear heavy.

There's nothing on this continent that a 45#-50# good-performing modern recurve or longbow won't shoot through IF the proper arrow and broadhead are also used and if the shot is well placed.

I agree. Most folks think you need the latest and greatest bow spitting arrows out over 300 fps. I have a '69 Beat Kodiak Magnum that has killed more big game of all shapes and sizes in my uncles hands. All with cedar sticks and C/C broad heads. I've killed quite a few deer and a few black bear with my recurve,cedar sticks and Magnus C/C 125gr points out to and a bit farther than 40 yards. Although I don't care to or promote taking long shots because bow hunting IMO is about getting close.

Back to the OP. Go to a good shop that tunes and works on both and I'm sure they let you shoot both to see what you like. Trad folks are usually very helpful especially to someone new to the game looking to join the ranks.

Heck,Why limit yourself,get one of each !! Traditional archery is very addicting,just one more shot I keep telling myself then an hour later I'm still shooting..I would try to shoot a few different bows, recurves and longbows until you found that "pointer" with the grip you like. I do agree with the heavy bow thing,DON'T overbow yourself,it takes the fun out of it then bad habits start,short draw,premature release,etc..

I build longbows, basically from simplicity. You don't need a stringer and you never have to deal with twisted limbs. They are a tad slower but so much lighter in the hand.

7 Lakes Longbows