Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Bowhunting Have you ever noticed this?

No, I personally don't know anyone who shoots expandables at all. The few people I know who do use them live in states out west where they tell me they like the ability of the expandable to do well in wind at long distances. That's just what they tell me.

Never suffered a MB failure, never used 'em, started with the old Thunderheads, progressed through Wasp, Muzzy, and now the 125 gr G5 Striker Magnum.

I do my part, they have ALL most certainly did there's.

Gunner

I have been told if your bow shoots 270 FPS or under stick with fixed bladed broad heads. If over switch to the mechanicals. My bow shoots in the 290's so I went with grim reapers. I have friends who say wonderful things about them. But at forty yards where my target arrows are hitting the bulls eyes the grim reaper practice head turns my arrows in the air and strike 18 inches to the left of target. Does this consistently. So now, looking for something else. Considering trying fixed blades and seeing how well those work.

So...don't shoot "target arrows".

That's really not bad advice. I bet I haven't shot a field point in over thirty years.

I'm from the East and doubt very seriously if I ever shoot a mechanical head again. I'm still shooting the old style Bear broad heads. That is all I ever practice with too.
I have enough of them that folks just gave me when the "bigger and better" broadhead craze started that I doubt I will ever run out of em.

If you want a broad head that will fly perfect without any tuning adjustment or effort to fly straight,

Slick trick magnums.

They will fly straight and consistent even if your using a tree branch with grocery store twine for a bow.

Check the blades on the practice head, that's a lot of shift for a tuned bow, at any speed. I "dinged" the tip of a G-5 Montec, and thought it was just a minor ding, but it threw that arrow off every shot by 6 inches from the others in the quiver.

The Slick Trick route cures a lot of problems.

18" difference in POI between a FP and a mech head of same weight? You have issues because while not unheard of it is uncommon for mech heads to "windplane". Especially that much. Not taking a stab at your intelligence, but the broad heads and field points are of the same weight? Did you spin test the broadheads? Are any blades opening during flight? Usually with mechs it doesnt matter but it certainly doesnt hurt to align fletching with blades. Are you running straight, offset, or helical fletching? Curious as to why you are getting the results you are

The grim reaper practice mechanical they give is basically fused and can't open. The bow has been laser tuned and on the money with my target tips. I realize it sounds bizarre. I go believe it's the shape of it that causes the twisting.

Laser tuned??? Only thing a laser can do is verify center shot. I wont hijack JJs thread to discuss this. But I would like to start a new one.

My bow is perfectly tuned and will group fixed head and field tips dead on top of each other. So I find this notion that people who use mech heads are idiots that cannot tune a bow a little offensive because it is certainly not always the case.

I do not work in a pro shop but I am set up with the equipment to do my own bow work. Over the years word has gotten out that I can set your bow up for you and many friends, family and people who know them have come to me to set up a bow for them. Can't put a number on how many I have tuned for people in my 47 years of life but it's been a lot. Here's why I bring that up. I HAVE SEEN JUST AS MANY PEOPLE USING FIXED HEAD BROADHEADS WHOSE BOWS WHERE NOT TUNED AS I HAVE MECHANICAL HEAD USERS! These people had merely moved their sights to match where the broadheads were impacting rather than tuning their bow so that field tips and broadheads grouped together.

If you guys consider the people who screw on a mech head to cover for an untuned bow to be morons then what does that make the ones who just move their sights to cover for an untuned bow? But you never seem to hear about those people online. Nope, doesn't fit the narrative that fixed head users like to spew online that makes them seem smarter, better bow hunters and just you know, greater people in general. LOL! Trust me, no side in this debate has a monopoly on dumbasses.

More horse pucky.

1. They cut a bigger hole. If my bow has the power to consistently blow a 1 3/4 or even 2 inch wide expandable through an animal then please tell me what is the advantage of dropping back to a 1 inch wide fixed head? So I can bury my arrow 3 inches deep in the ground on the other side of him rather than just 2 inches deep? How does that help? The bigger hole will yield a better blood trail; is less likely to be plugged by fat or other materials and stop bleeding; and is more likely to nick something lethal on a less than perfect shot.

2. Mech heads fly like field tips. That's different than just tuned to group with field tips. They "FLY" like field tips. A minor glitch in form from wearing bulky clothes in cold weather or from leaning out around a limb or kneeling down in your treestand may only throw a field tip off a couple of inches at 40 yards but a fixed head? Who knows. They are problem amplifiers. A glitch in form that throws a field tip 2 inches off target at 40 is likely to throw a fixed head off 4 times as much. One of those is still a dead deer. The other? Ehh, who knows.

Now to be fair fixed heads typically have an advantage in penetration. And if your bow doesn't have the power to use mech heads than by all means stick with a fixed head. But to say that there is no potential advantage to a mech head is just dead wrong.

Grim Reapers are what I use as well. Over the last 4 years I have watched every animal I shot with one fall in sight of my tree. Blood trails, although not needed, could have been followed at a fast trot. Fantastic broadhead.

@280Ackleyrized, The bow shop I take my bow to tunes it by locking it in vice with a arrow in the CAD rest. The laser goes up and down the string, across the arrow and arrow rest, lines up with sights and limbs and cams. Once they have it all adjusted, they're done. It shoots fantastic with target arrows no porpoising or fishtailing. Smooth straight shots. My bow for some reason just shoots the grim-reaper practice head way off to the left at 40 yards. The shop doesn't know why that would happen. I am going to let them try and see how it works for them. The bow I got is Matthews Heli m and I get great accuracy with it on my block target. I have a 7 point Truglo sights and I can hit that box consistently at 90 yards for fun with target points.

Something isnt right. But to keep from hijacking JJs thread, i have a new thread concerning broadhead tuning. Id like to help figure out whats going on with your setup. But lets discuss it further there. Besides something that answers a question someone else may have could be brought out

It's about cutting blood vessels... math... 2 blade, 2" rage cuts 2 inches. 4 blade, 1 1/8" slick trick cuts 2 1/4 inchs. Penetration and toughness goes to the ST.

If broadheads impact different than FTs because of shooting form... you have a spine issue.

Kent

Recheck your math with a 3 blade Grim Reaper WT special that opens to 2 inches vs your 1 1/8 slick trick. Most expandable broadheads aren't two blades.

The regular GR is 1 3/8, so 2 1/16 cutting edge total.

The WT edition specifies HG bows/ white tail size animals... which is an admission of penetration loss.

As the distance stretches and/or the animal size increases penetration is an increasing factor of tissue cut.

Kent