Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Bowhunting Elite VS Hoyt

Elites are nice bows, my brother owns one and I shoot it occasionally. In fact he sold his Hoyt Alpha and kept the Elite...also has a Mathews Creed? Which is also very nice. I don't care for the grip on the Elite, the cutouts are almost sharp feeling.

All that said, I like the history of Hoyt, they've been around since the early '30s, even longer than Bear I believe.

I shoot all Hoyts for compound bows, and have since the early 1980's. But Hoyts history is well in its past now. Seeing it is owned by Easton. Which adds more history one way or the other.

What Hoyt does bring to the table is on average the best bow designs year in and year out. Yes they have had the occasional flop. Name one company that hasn't? They dominate all target archery and have for a very long time. I know what you are going to say, Not 3D. Well this is somewhat true. But 3D isn't target archery. So for those scratching their heads with all this target talk, saying I am a hunter. Well all of Hoyts success in the target world has flowed over into their hunting bows. This is why they have such a strong Hunting Pro-Staff, arguably the deepest Pro-Staff in the industry.

With all that said it still doesn't mean Hoyt is right for everybody.

So for the update to this thread.
After much debate and shooting each model, I ended up going with the Hoyt Spider Carbon 30 and man I have been very pleased with it. I really like the tuneability, draw cycle, back wall and the way it handles. Yes I did change the grips out to just the small narrow side plates, I didn't care for the big wide full grip at all. I have found that I don't have to correct the lean of the bow when anchored, it's just plumb and ready to go. I even debated on wether or not to use a stabilizer right now cause it was pretty quiet and not much vibration with out it, but found a nice 6" version and decided to run with that. Now all I need is a quiver and ready to hunt this fall, after many more rounds of practice.

What is everyone's thoughts about which quiver now? I know technology has changed but strongly thinking about that 5 arrow tight spot quiver. Any suggestions would be great as I have never had one before.

Thanks for all the help everyone, I greatly appreciate it.

Tight Spot is THE quiver.

Have you shot it with fletched/bare shafts yet? If so, how did it do with them? As for a quiver, ill never own a tightspot. Have no desire to spend that kind of coin on something that just needs to hold arrows and hang from a hook most of the time

Meant to comment on quivers yesterday. I haven't used the tight spot, so no comment.

Things I've learned about quivers: Make sure the quiver you buy now meets your arrow needs now and in the future. I switched over to thin shaft arrows, the quivers I had with the CE Max Hunters would not hold the arrows, the rubber pinchs were too big.

I tried the Mathews Arrow Web quivers for a while, decided I didn't like the single rubber grip on the arrow shaft, found I knocked them loose walking through the woods, raising or lowering the bow from the stand, and generally lost control of arrows with sharp broadheads on them. Liked the attachment to the bow, but not the retension of the arrows. The hood insert worked, but need replacement pretty often, about once a season for me.

I am currently using the Apex MQX Nano Quiver, two seperate rubber shaft grips, and a well protected cover over the broadheads. They hold the thin arrows well, I can use a bigger arrow shaft, and the rubber will recover after I take it out. The Nano has a seperate quiver holder for a tree or stand, I use it on the stand. The magnetic hold does well, I've only popped the quiver off once in four years pulling it up into the stand.

I also use a couple of the G-5 Halos, now discontinued. They have two mounts, one on the bow, and one for the stand or tree. The magnetic mount is strong, and has a lock lever for the holder for the travel to and from the stand. They are easy on-easy off, and hold thin shaft arrows well, but not as well as the Nano. Only issue is forgetting the seperate quiver holder in the tree...until after you climb down...

I did tune the bow with a fletched arrow so far, have not done the bare shaft tune yet. The arrows are hitting very straight and hard out to 55 yards so far, but need to keep working on that.

As for arrow shafts I have been shooting the Easton Axis and really liking them a lot. I'm not sure I'm a fan of the super small shafts that take a special insert for. I understand that I can increase arrow weight by doing so, but it weighs 432 grains now with 100gr tips. I still need to chrono and find out exactly where I'm at and how much KE it is putting out.

Thanks for the input on the quivers, I'm all ears on the pros and cons of them.

Thanks

I have the Hoyt 4 arrow 2 piece quiver on my Charger - nice quiver. Way over priced new but I picked mine up used for 1/2 price. I also have a Fuse 2 piece 4 arrow quiver that I put on my Dorado - works good also but has the old triangle mount.

The bareshaft is the tell all end all for tuning a bow. If bareshaft/fletched hit like this at 20yds, youre tuned.

As for small diameter shafts, they penetrate better and buck the wind better. I dont like the hidden inserts either. My Eastons run the HP-4 insert. I love em.

I will have to try that, that's some shooting there.

Half price is my favorite way to purchase things, even used in good shape doesn't bother me one bit at all.

Thats at 20yds. It requires arrows properly spined. Cams properly timed. Center shot properly set. Proper nock height. Proper draw length. Proper grip. Then knowing what adjustments to make. And having the right equipment to do it.

But may not be the most consistent and tune............I know guys that will deliberately tune a bow to shoot slightly tail high left. The belief is that every arrow leaves the bow the same - with a bow shot dead center the arrow can leave the bow at different vectors with each shot.

??????

Likeyes I have a 6 arrow Kweikee quiver you can have. It is Black and old but in excellent condition and they work well. Just pay the shipping to you and it is yours if you want.

Tight Spot is the best quiver I've used hands down. I'm not a treestand hunter so the quiver is an important part of my bow set up. It is VERY quiet and the close fit and adjustment for cant makes it balance very nicely. Highly recommend it if you don't spend all of your time in a tree.

As explained by Dee Wilde - an arrow that takes off slightly tail high left does so every time even with minor input from the archer. An arrow tuned perfectly straight will take off at what ever tweak the archer put to the arrow. Definitely in the advanced tuning category, but the theory is sound and works pretty well for Dee and his boys. It seems that I have read the same from Ulmer also.

I have and will continue to tune right down the center of the bows power stroke. Doubtful youll have any luck finding a tuner that wont. The goal is perfect arrow flight. And maximum efficiency from the bow.

If they can make it through that Garrett Armstrong cluster, they can make it through anything...

Very few people know who Garrett is or what he did. On top of that these things die as fast as they come up. Sad but true.