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Originally Posted by Slidellkid


Bad - Kinda fugly looking. Imagine how many they would sell if they put them in a sleek mountain rifle type stock.


While the stock may not be purty, though I don't know many plastic stocks that are, you'd be hard pressed to make it any sleeker. Chit it only weighs 28oz.

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Not to mention I cannot believe how stiff they are for a factory plastic stock.


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I wish they offered more selection in calibers. I know they offer all the standards but I'd like to see one in 260, 6mm and some other less frequently used calibers.

You are right Cub, it is nice for a plastic stock but I just don't really care for the ergonomics of it.

Pretty much impossible to beat a Tikka dollar for dollar - or for any amount of money for that matter.

Be nice if they offered it in a pretty wood stock.

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Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Originally Posted by yukonal
Originally Posted by Jordan Smith

Bad

Flimsy bottom metal where the action screws engage. Benefits immensely from pillars being installed in the stock.
Plastic bolt shroud and bottom metal/magazine
One-size-fits-all action length
Not much aftermarket support (because it doesn't need much), which is disappointing for tinkerers.



1) Not flimsy, supported inside with steel.
2) Reinforced polymer, show me either one you have personally broken.
3) Discussed above.
4) All you'll ever need...http://www.tikkaperformance.com/


1) I've personally bent that flimsy, thin steel by torquing my action screws to 55 in-lbs, which is why I pillar-bedded the rifle and bottom metal
2) I can't because I replaced the bolt shroud with an aluminum replacement before it had a chance to break wink It was more for the tinkering factor, than anything
3) It can be a pro or a con, depending on what you're doing and how you look at it


I have seen photos of cracked plastic bolt shrouds somewhere. No personal experience with them however.
Where would the aluminum replacements be available?


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Originally Posted by Jordan Smith

1) I've personally bent that flimsy, thin steel by torquing my action screws to 55 in-lbs, which is why I pillar-bedded the rifle and bottom metal.



Holy Crap Jordan!!! shocked Factory specs are 35 inch pounds on wood, and 35-40 inch pounds on synthetic. wink


Originally Posted by archie_james_c
I should have just
bought a [bleep] T3...


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Does McMillen make a stock that fits a Tikka? If so, what style?

With a Tikka and a McMillen you'd have about $1000 tied up in a rifle that would perform as well as many customs.

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Originally Posted by dogcatcher223
Crank an extra 15lbs on your scope rings and see what happens.


That's like apples and watermelons.



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Originally Posted by Slidellkid
Does McMillen make a stock that fits a Tikka? If so, what style?

With a Tikka and a McMillen you'd have about $1000 tied up in a rifle that would perform as well as many customs.


Yup, sako classic, sako hunter, and the A5 off the top of my head. I have the classic and it's been a great carry rifle. Member MISTEM has quite a collection of McMillan laced Tikkas.

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Originally Posted by yukonal
Originally Posted by Jordan Smith

1) I've personally bent that flimsy, thin steel by torquing my action screws to 55 in-lbs, which is why I pillar-bedded the rifle and bottom metal.



Holy Crap Jordan!!! shocked Factory specs are 35 inch pounds on wood, and 35-40 inch pounds on synthetic. wink


That's like complaining your engine blew up when it redlines at 5000 RPM but you "prefer" to run it at 8000 RPM...

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Originally Posted by smokepole
Originally Posted by dogcatcher223
Crank an extra 15lbs on your scope rings and see what happens.


That's like apples and watermelons.



No it's not. Torque specs are given for a reason. I've over-torqued ring caps per manufacturers specs, and had to drill out twisted off screws. My fault completely.

Jordan WAY over torqued the action screws, per manufacturers specs and ruined a part. What's the difference?


Originally Posted by archie_james_c
I should have just
bought a [bleep] T3...


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Originally Posted by Slidellkid
Does McMillen make a stock that fits a Tikka? If so, what style?



A5, A3, Game Scout, A3 Sporter, Sako Varmint, Sako Classic, Sako Hunter. I might have missed one.


Originally Posted by archie_james_c
I should have just
bought a [bleep] T3...


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There isn't anything wrong with Tikkas. They are, hands down, the best factory rifle out there. No maintenance or adjustments required.

The triggers are a thing of beauty - light and no creep. Barrels are superb - Sako and Tikka barrels are made in the same place and end up being screwed onto either.

No off the shelf rifle can come close at any price. They are truly "Point and Shoot." It's too bad the other companies haven't been paying attention.


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I got a T-3 Lite in .243 through a deal that my brother got as a smith at a Beretta service center - I got it below dealer cost. Darn if the thing didn't shoot half-inch 3-shot groups at 100 yards with virtually any load. I was so impressed that when he was offered the same deal later on, I got an identical T-3 Lite but in .300 Win. On that one, I did have to put Talleys on it as the factory rings tended to come loose under recoil...and I added a pre-fit Limbsaver pad becuase the .300 does jump in such a light rifle. It shoots under an inch, but not as tight as the .243. Then again, that is probably just me shooting a .300 mag in a light rifle.

As others have said - they shoot extremely well out of thebox, great triggers and both of mine are very tightly bedded intothe stock. The plastic mags don't bother my any more than the plastic mags for my 10/22, ARs or Mini-14.


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dang I'm glad the rifle is the boy's and not mine


otherwise I'd have to be sending you a bill bea175


talk about taking a nice rifle and making it nicer!


me likey! well done sir cool


I'm pretty certain when we sing our anthem and mention the land of the free, the original intent didn't mean cell phones, food stamps and birth control.
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Sorry, I thought the difference was obvious when on the one hand you're compressing a thin-walled aluminum tube with intricate mechanisms inside vs on the other, a thick hunk of plastic.

Not to mention that 15 extra pounds of torque on scope rings is around 80% higher than manufacturer's specs, while 15 lbs on action screws is closer to 35% higher.



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LOL, this thread is hilarious!

Someone please show me any other rifle/bottom metal that would be ruined by applying a measly 55 in-lbs of torque (4.5 ft-lbs)?!

And for the record, I love the T3 as an off-the-shelf solution. Add a pillar-bedded McMillan, and you're there. But to blindly overlook the T3's weaknesses and flaws is to choose to be ignorant. The Sako Finnlight costs a lot more than the T3, but there's a reason.

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Originally Posted by g5m
Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Originally Posted by yukonal
Originally Posted by Jordan Smith

Bad

Flimsy bottom metal where the action screws engage. Benefits immensely from pillars being installed in the stock.
Plastic bolt shroud and bottom metal/magazine
One-size-fits-all action length
Not much aftermarket support (because it doesn't need much), which is disappointing for tinkerers.



1) Not flimsy, supported inside with steel.
2) Reinforced polymer, show me either one you have personally broken.
3) Discussed above.
4) All you'll ever need...http://www.tikkaperformance.com/


1) I've personally bent that flimsy, thin steel by torquing my action screws to 55 in-lbs, which is why I pillar-bedded the rifle and bottom metal
2) I can't because I replaced the bolt shroud with an aluminum replacement before it had a chance to break wink It was more for the tinkering factor, than anything
3) It can be a pro or a con, depending on what you're doing and how you look at it


I have seen photos of cracked plastic bolt shrouds somewhere. No personal experience with them however.
Where would the aluminum replacements be available?


I got mine from a local source, but they used to be available from Australia on eBay, as well.

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Originally Posted by smokepole
Sorry, I thought the difference was obvious when on the one hand you're compressing a thin-walled aluminum tube with intricate mechanisms inside vs on the other, a thick hunk of plastic.

Not to mention that 15 extra pounds of torque on scope rings is around 80% higher than manufacturer's specs, while 15 lbs on action screws is closer to 35% higher.


Exactly. It's like saying the top half of the ring would collapse from applying 20 in-lbs, when the spec is 15.

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Only thing I don't like about the Tikklers is the lack of gas baffles/venting. And would prefer less plastic but this would add cost and weight.

Had 5 Tikklers. All are gone now. Great rifles but don't miss them one bit and don't plan on buying any more.


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