Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Winchester Collectors Glass bedding a Winchester model 70 (my way)

Hi guys. I'm continually getting pm's about glass bedding Ruger m77's and Winchester model 70's so I'm going to try and walk you thru the process I've found to be the most simple for me. I've been glass bedding rifles since I was about 20, so I've been doing this for a while. This is something where your first time is always the hardest and most memorable. Hope this can be of some help to some of you guys that are on the fence about bedding some of your own rifles:

The first thing I'm going to do is make up a list of things you will probably need (besides the barreled action and stock):

1. Bedding compound
a. This can be anything from JB weld, Acraglass, Devcon 10110, or even marine tex.

2. Release agent
a. I've found Johnston's paste wax and Hornady one shot case lube to work great for this.

3. Measuring utensils for the bedding compound.
4. Something to mix the bedding compound with, a container for this and something to apply the bedding compound with.
a. I prefer using a 1/4" dowel cut to about 12" long. I grind one end to a point for easier more precise application of the bedding compound.
5. Q-tips. Never forget the q-tips!!!
6. Inletting guide screws.
7. Blue painters masking tape.
8. Electricians tape.
9. Dremel
10. 40-60 grit sand paper for roughing up the surface of the stock being glass bedded.
11. Good rifle vise.
12. A LOT of patience!!

Ok, first thing I do is remove the barreled action from the stock. I make sure the surface of the rifle is clean. I then apply Hornady one shot case lube to the hard to get to areas of the barreled action. I let that dry and then I finish applying release agent (in my case I use the Johnson's paste wax) to the receiver and barrel and all the small parts: IE, mag box, floorplate, and trigger guard.




Next step is to work on the stock. I use a dremel tool with a small grinding stone attachment and rough up the recoil lug area and tang. I use the 40-60 grit sand paper to do the final sanding and roughing. This is more than enough to hold the bedding compound for years to come. Especially if you are using my favorite (Devcon 10110 steel bed). My rifle (XTR FWT 270w) looked like this when I started:

Now after roughing up the wood, it looks like this:

Notice I left the area around the front action screw hole high so the action will sit at the correct depth in the stock. I then apply the blue masking tape in the barrel channel just forward of the recoil lug. I apply some release agent to the blue tape so the compound that does go into the barrel channel won't stick. I also use release agent (paste wax) in the barrel channel if the stock is to be freefloated. This makes cleanup a lot easier since the bedding compound won't want to stick to the stock there:


I then apply Johnston's paste wax to the outside of the stock (sans the checkering). This minimizes time. I can generally bed a rifle stock in about 45 minutes if all goes as planned. Of course this does not include the cure time of the bedding compound and clean up time.

When you are 100% sure the barreled action has enough release agent on it, you can mix your epoxy.
You will need 2.5 parts (by volume) of the epoxy and 1 part hardner when you are working with the Devcon 10110:

I use about 1 1/4 tsp of epoxy and 1/2 a tsp of hardner for most recoil lug and tang bedding jobs..

I then apply the mixed bedding compound to the sweet spots:
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/IMG_0769_zpsf468450d.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/IMG_0770_zpsa2ffea8e.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/IMG_0771_zpsf7eddcb2.jpg[/img]

Keep in mind, this doesn't have to be overflowing out onto the floor to work. Try to keep it in the right areas and you don't have to worry about it getting onto everything else!!

After you are happy with the amount of bedding compound in the stock, you can then carefully lower the barreled action into the stock. Most of the time, I'll throw the trigger guard on, put the mag box in, and use the middle screw to keep things together (just snug the screw up), I also put the floor plate on to make sure the mag box stays put and then wrap electrical tape around the receiver. Don't worry, this won't torque the receiver. I've done this many different ways and sometimes even use my action screws to hold everything in place. I've yet to see any difference in performance and have yet to torque an action. This is what some call a neutral bedded action or stress free bedding:

[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/IMG_0772_zpsbb22f15b.jpg[/img]

Continued:
After the action is dropped into the stock and secured, the epoxy will start to ooze out of the top of the stock (hopefully):





I let it sit there for about 10 minutes and then use a Q-tip with some Johnsons on it to remove the epoxy that comes out:



This was the left side of the receiver. When it's wiped clean I go over the receiver with a little Johnson's paste wax. I feel the surface with my finger when I'm applying it to make sure there is no residual epoxy on the receiver anywhere. The paste wax will come off very easily after the bedding compound has cured. Here's the same thing, but on the right hand side of the receiver:
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/IMG_0780_zpsc8c017e8.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/IMG_0781_zpsecd580c1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/IMG_0783_zpsd6dd0bf9.jpg[/img]

Thank you, that was nicely done.

Continued:


If you do this right, you will use about 10 Q-tips per side:

Once you fill one up, go to the next and make sure you use plenty of Johnsons paste wax on each Q-tip. Trust me, this works much better than anything else I've tried. I know a lot of guys just wait until it's set up for about 4 hours and cut it off with a sharp stick, but I like to set it and forget it. I won't have to touch this stock for another 24 hours and that's the way I like it!!

Usually if you do a Winchester right, you won't even have to use this step on the tang:


Give your project a quick once over to make sure you didn't accidentally get bedding compound anywhere it doesn't belong:





Also remember you used the paste wax on the stock too, so that will keep the epoxy from sticking to it. If you do accidentally get some epoxy in the checkering, you can just use the Q-tip cleaning method on it and you'll be golden.

This bedding project took almost exactly 1 hour because of the extra time to take pictures.

We'll separate the barreled action from the stock around 11:30 A.M tomorrow.

Excellent. Do you got a pic of the rear tang area prior to filling it with bedding material, but after any dremeling?

This is what the tang looked like before:


I roughed up the sides and a little of the btm. I'll be danged if I didn't get a pic of the tang after I roughed it up. Here's the grinding stone that works pretty good for this:

That's perfect. Kudos on the thread.

$3 bucks headed your way so you can pick me up two bags of Reese's jumbo bags thanks

Very nice. I'm gaining courage to bed my Montana's.

Right, you know you want those "nuts, nuts and more nuts"... You gay 270 shooter you...

Damn nuts get you real excited I see calm down

Now you won't want to buy this XTR from me because it's not factory bedded . Hey 79s, what do you think of the factory bedding anyway. Do yours look like this? It seemed pretty faint, even for a factory job:

Thanks Paul. I've walked a lot of guys thru this process through PM's so this seems like a better route and it's out in the open this way. Guys that have bought my rifles, know they perform very well due to being properly bedded. Some even comment on how smooth the bolt operation is after bedding. Part of that is because the receiver itself was probably bound up or "stressed". I'll be popping the barreled action out in a few hours and will show more pics of that process. Thanks for the comments...

All mine look like that they shoot good but if bedded would shoot better. My damn good bud in AK used to bed them for me I buy the stuff he do it. But now I guess is need to do it.

Thanks for posting this BSA. I've been bedding, the lug area only, on my winchesters and have had pretty good luck with that so far.

However, the next one I try I may do the tang also.

Looking forward to seeing how you clean up the bedding in front of the lug in the barrel channel.

Appreciate the post!

Thanks for taking the time to post this essay; I know they take a lot of effort. I have never wanted to be messing with a camera while I had bedding compound about.

There are lots of ways to skin a cat, and likewise there are different techniques to bed. I mask the front, sides, and bottom of the recoil lug. The clearance makes the barreled action easier to get in and out of the action, and also ensures that I am not scrapping off the edges of the mortise bedding as I take the action in and out. More a matter of personal preference than anything.

But with all due respect, I do think you are doing something significantly questionable in your bedding. I really think the back of the trigger abutment should be masked so it is not functioning as a secondary recoil lug. It is not designed for that, and can lead to splitting in the tang. (Know that crack that so many Savage 99's have? That is from the tang bearing recoil.)

When the cartridge is fired, the recoil pushes back on the recoil lug and flexes the walls of the stock around the magazine out, and the stock shortens. (That is why so many old Win70's have a split in the wood behind the magazine--from that outward flex. That is also why crossbolts help--by holding the sides in.) That means that there has got to be some "give" between the length of the action and the stock or forces are being directly applied to the stock in places you don't want. That is why the rear of the trigger abutment on a Win 70 needs to be masked so that it is not a bearing surface.

I also believe you do not want the stock bolts, the magazine, or any other surface of the action functioning as secondary recoil lugs.

bsa, what are your thoughts on pillar bedding prior to full bedding the recoil lug and tang?

Thanks Utah. You are absolutely correct. I'll be along with pics to let you know how I deal with the trigger abutment (rear of the trigger assembly). I don't mask it, because I don't want the masking tape to get in the way when I'm trying to lower the barreled action into the goop. You could end op with a big mess. As far as taping the front and sides of the recoil lug: not necessary. ASK redneck and Karnis if they bed them "tight" and see what they say. Works good for me too and the accuracy of my rifles is pure testimony to the process. Taping that stuff is a waste of time. Again, this is why the title says "my way". I totally agree about skinning a cat too. Many many ways...

Generally if I'm going to bed a rifle, I'll do pillars and glass all at the same time.

Alright, I have 58 pictures from earlier today when I popped the action out of the stock. They only let me post 10 pics per post so this may require multiple posts labled "continued". Here goes:

Here's how the rifle looked when I started today:


I start by breaking the inletting screws loose, then they can be unscrewed by hand if you used enough release agent on them. The electrical tape can also be removed:



The release agent should work like this:


After the mag box is out and the floor plate and all screws and tape are off, we need to pop the barreled action out of the stock. I always grab my heavy plastic coated hammer and a towel for this job:


Start by sitting down in your chair, place the rifle across your legs with the stock facing you. Put the towel over the barrel to protect the finish:

[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/IMG_0798_zpsc9c53a54.jpg[/img]

Now you are ready to separate the action. Grab the stock near the forend (about 5 inches back from the tip). Lift up on the rifle and give it a few good smacks with the plastic (or rubber mallet) hammer:
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/IMG_0799_zps9c2062a1.jpg[/img]

Continued:

This is what it should look like when the barreled action is free from the stock:




This is why I use Johnson's paste wax for release agent. It just works... You can use other products, but this one can has lasted me a looooooong time. The Hornady one shot case lube is also very good to have on hand for the hard to get to spots. I'll even spray the inside of the receiver with the one shot just as a preventative measure.

The front of the recoil lug turned out like this:

I generally take out the overspill with a dremel if it doesn't lay in there smooth like I want. I have noticed that most of my rifles respond very well to a freefloat from the front of the recoil lug forward:


Here's what it looks like after it's relieved:
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/IMG_0809_zps076a4ba3.jpg[/img]

The next thing I do is relieve the action screw holes. I start with a 1/4" drill bit:
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/IMG_0810_zps05d95a31.jpg[/img]

I then go to a 5/16" drill bit on Winchester model 70's and go slow from the bottom of the stock thru:
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/IMG_0811_zps3585b0f0.jpg[/img]
This goes back to what Utah708 was saying about secondary recoil lugs and such. No clearance in these screw holes is a bad thing.

After you are done drilling the holes out, you should see the wood in the holes:
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/IMG_0812_zps6b4e9db5.jpg[/img]

Continued:

After you drill the action screw holes out, you can fine tune the overflow areas and relieve more spots so you will be guaranteed that you won't end up with secondary recoil lugs and unnecessary tight spots. These things also affect accuracy:

Here's an overflow area that I get rid of. I also used release agent on this area, knowing I'd be getting rid of it after I separated the stock from the action:


The trigger abutment gets dealt with like this. We don't want the trigger spring and adjustment screw hanging up anywhere and this would create a secondary recoil lug as Utah708 pointed out:


Looks like this when I'm done and only takes a few seconds:



After the stock and bedding are touched up and there are no secondary recoil lugs, I start on cleaning up the metal:


Rem oil, a rag and a few Q-tips work great for this process:


When you are done cleaning the metal parts, they look like this:
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/IMG_0832_zpsc5e025f0.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/IMG_0833_zps889f89cd.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/IMG_0834_zps3cbf2a4d.jpg[/img]

Continued:

When all your metal parts are clean, you can wipe the Johnson's paste wax off of the stock and it looks great, except sometimes you end up with a little in the checkering. I try like heck to keep it out of there, because I don't like having to clean it out of the crevasses. However, I have a small stiff brush that works great for this:




Here it is after brushing out the checkering:

Now it's time to put everything back together, since everything is clean as a whistle:

More pics of the rifle:





Here's the cleaned up bedding too. I think I forgot to post a pic of it earlier:


This pic is especially for 79s


Hope you guys have a great Easter and thanks for letting me share a glass bedding project with you!!!! Remember there are many ways to do this, but this seems to be the easiest way for me

Very nice tutorial "bsa". Thanks for taking the time to show us your techniques.
This should give others the confidence to do it themselves.
Looking forward to the range pics.

Very good tutorial! Thank you for taking time to share everything, including the photos.

Thanks buddy. I think it will be a great shooter. I'll have to "break in" the barrel though, as it's only been test fired from the factory. I'll post results after I get her scoped. If it's like the others I've bedded, it will be a shooting sob. . Ask EricM and 444Matt how their rifles shoot...

No problem. Hopefully it's easy to walk thru and helpful to some of those who have never glass bedded a rifle.

've tried several times to E-mail this post to my self and it doesn't arrive in my mail box. Is there a problem with that function?

You are an artist, BSA. Man, it really makes you appreciate the work that goes into a proper bedding job. Nicely done and thanks for sharing! I'm still loving the '51 30-06 you sold me awhile back. My best shooter.

Eric

That means a lot buddy. I'm also glad you are still loving that rifle. It's a good one. This bedding job was not nearly as in depth as the one on your rifle. Adding pillars and freefloating that barrel and adding the dummy screw in the forend of your pre 64 added a couple extra steps. I really like going that route on the standards though. I did the same thing to my 338 Alaskan..

You always do a great job of bedding, I'm glad you posted your procedure. I picked up some good hints.

I'm glad you liked it southwind. Thanks for the comments..

Kudos bsa for an outstanding thread and pics second to none. Wish I had seen all this before I tackled my 1952 Model 70. That bedding in the recoil lug area on mine made so much difference in groups. I didn't bed the tang area as well as you and did bed just forward about 1 1/2" forward of the recoil lug and I had to relieve the dark, black areas in the barrel channel where it was rubbing against the barrel. No telling how long that had been going on but, after all was said and done she went from nearly 2" groups to 3/4"-1"(depending on me). I was pleased.

I thought the barrels on that rifle were floated?

Thanks Kitch. Sounds like you did a great job. Anytime you can get groups to shrink by 1/2, you know you did something right. That's generally what I shoot for. If you are referring to your std wt 270 on the freefloat, they were not ever freefloated from the factory. The pre 64 fwt's were advertised as having the freefloating barrel for accuracy, but the std wt's were always meticulously inletted for their own barreled action. Winchester generally did a very nice job on them. If you take too much out of the barrel channel and then torque the forend screw too much, it can make the groups go wonky. This is why I generally full length bed the std wt's or if I'm feeling really gung ho I freefloat them and use a dummy screw like I did with my 338 Alaskan and EricM's 30-06. Both of those rifles are exceptional shooters and POI stays the same since there's never any contact (uneven or otherwise) in the barrel channel.

bt

Nope, I was referring to the rifle you showed being bedded. I had thought most all the newer M70's were floated. This is what the barrel channel on mine looked like before I took some sandpaper and dowel rod to it. You can clearly see the pressure points causing the erratic grouping.



This is what the recoil lug area looked like prior to bedding. You can see looks like someone took a chunk out of it.



This is afterwards. I ended up going further than I wanted with the barrel shank area and cut back so only about an inch and a half was bedded. After completion, I didn't tighten the front screw at all. It's not in use at all.

Great Job BSA. Basically the only thing I do differently when bedding is to use rubber tubing vs. the electrical tape. I can control the "force" by how tight I wrap the rubber tubing. It comes off cleaner also.

Another fantastic job, I feel like I could do a fair job BUT there are always guys like BSA around so I tell myself 'let the pros do it'. We just need to get BSA to do it for us, I think I paid my gunsmith 125. for the last mod 70, I can see where that is just a fair per hour rate, I even have a Brownells Acraglas kit around here somewhere BUT when it came time to do my 70 target in sporter stock I backed up and hunted a pro. My marksman stock had been done many years ago by a pro, the gun shot an easy 1/4 to 1/2 inch better in the bedded marksman vs an un bedded sporter stock. Have you done a before and after target yet? very best on a great job! winpoor

I just did one 1st go around did not use enough bedding so cut it all out tried again and it came out pretty good for my 2nd try. Learned a lot from that one. Now onto my unbedded lefty model 70 in a 270 that shoots real well 2.25 inch groups at 300yds. I'm hoping this tightens it up even more.

thanks for sharing your expertise bsa. one question I didn't see you address but perhaps I missed you mentioning it. do you have a tough time removing the barreled action after bedding in that you don't tape the sides and front of the recoil lug for some clearance? thanks

This is why use the method other smiths use by placing the rifle in your lap, pulling up on the stock with your weak hand and giving it a few good whacks on the towel covered barrel with a dead blow type hammer. This method works great. If you use enough of the right release agent, they pop out after about 5-10 good whacks. Keep in mind I don't smack the heck out of it, they are just very controlled whacks.. Thanks for the question.

Thanks, I appreciate all of your comments. Tubing would also work great. I know guys that use it and it works good for them. The electrical tape doesn't leave a smudge because of the Johnson's paste wax on the stock anyway. The paste wax does a few different things in this bedding process: Protects the wood from stray bedding compound (won't stick to the wood with the paste wax on it), keeps the electrical tape from really sticking to it, it also helps to waterproof the stock (which is a good thing), speeds up bedding time because you don't have to tape the stock off. Check out the finished/cleaned up parts I showed pics of and that is the best proof I can offer. Kind of a win win deal by using the Johnson's. It was a trick my gunsmith told me about and it works great.

I don't know if I'd mess with a rifle that already shoots 2.25 inch groups at 300 yards. Sounds like it's good to go already..

Well it's your fault posting this thread "hey guys look how easy it is anyone can do it" thanks bud

That wasn't my intent. I have faith that you will do a good job on yours. However, somehow I don't know how you got blue car wax confused with Johnson's paste wax though. Did the blue come off your hands yet??

Uh this info would of been nice to know 5 hours ago... I used a 10lb sledge

PM sent...

Yep... I got the Johnson wax today

79S you sound like a farmer.

Hey, some guys beat the barrel over the back of the couch.... ... You've seen my couch though. I can't use that or my wife would shove the barrel somewhere the sun doesn't shine.

I wish i was a farmer wander into town everyday have coffee at the local diner then do whatever farmers do... But for now im in the Army

THANK YOU! For your service to our country 79S.

How do you keep the barrel centered in the channel while bedding, when necessary?

Sometimes this is necessary. I usually put a couple wraps around the barrel with electrical tape. This keeps it centered pretty good... I've also put tape on the barrel with plenty of release agent and glassed the barrel channel to keep it centered and allow for the right amount of freefloat:

Also, why not leave the dummy action bolt in the front hole, and tap on that with the hammer to release the action from the stock? I always thought that was less stressful than hitting the barrel. Am I missing something?

I wouldn't do that personally. If you miss and smack the stock you'll feel like a dumb azz... Trust me, the way I outlined is the easiest way and it hurts absolutely nothing..

Did you ever get that barreled action out of the stock you bought from swampy??

Hey 1970 called they want their crushed red velvet blanket back.

That's just an old work towel..

Where do you get inletting screws?

Brownells or ebay. I think mine are the stainless forster..

That was somebody else that had that problem. I haven't stuck any. Yet!

I'm sorry, I had you confused with DeerTracker. Knock on wood, I haven't stuck any yet either. I remember my first few being nail biters though . With me, It was always in the back of my mind or I'd have to ask myself if I remembered to use enough release agent and in all the right spots

Ok I will give $10 bucks for it but not a penny more....

An old gun smith friend told me if he had one stock he would put it in a freezer over night and the metal would shrink enough to pop free from the bedding. He always used Acraglass and I don't know if that made any difference. I have used Acraglass for repairs but I have never bedded a rifle action.

Good stuff BSA, we do very similar bedding jobs. Of course your help along the way had something to do with it. Mine are turning out better now days for sure. I do need some action screws though.

Thanks buddy. I told you, you'd get the hang of it..Speaking of action screws, for the longest time I used 1/4" dowel rods (wood of course). I half azzed screwed them into the action and they worked well enough. However, these new stock inletting guide screws work even better .

TAG

Great thread thanks for sharing man. I will say the EW I got from you has the slickest action I've ever owned, even turned old GeorgeinSD who is a 700 slut a little green with envy.

Thanks, that's saying a lot right there. I know George is a big time believer in those 700's..

Question deleted

Bringing this to the front so I can find it plus a question?

Thoughts and recommendations on pillar bedding? I'm intending to bed my new to me p64 Alaskan, is it worth the extra work to pillar it and if so any tips? Glass bedded an action years ago so Im working on my courage factor. Have inletted a few flintlock barrels and locks into stock blanks, but all with hand tools. These modern dremel power tools are scary!
Thanks!

Great to see a post where Devcon Steel putty was used. I like the look of it , I would like to try the Titanium epoxy one of these days. I have been using probed 2000 and pleased as punch with that as well but wondering if the Devcon stuff is tougher . I just bedded a Tikka T3 into a B&C T3 stock and I guess Friday I will find out if I did it right when I take it to the range.

Razz,

I am in the process of finishing a stock for my Alaskan 338 as well. The original was cracked at the tang so it is going into the scrap pile. I perform all the inletting, fitting, and shaping by hand as well. I am pillar bedding the action and epoxying the entire action into the stock as well. I cut the pillars by hand and then used a certified flat ( gramps was a machinist) and a square to sand them perfect. After you drill the holes in the stock you will think you really messed up, especially the tang area. Don't worry, you will fill in the voids with epoxy and then use a rat tail file to file it down perfect. I epoxy in stages. Here is the second stage complete.



PIllars are in, barrel is fully floated to the recoil lug. Next step is to support the chamber with about 2 inches of epoxy.

Then I will epoxy the entire action, magazine well included, so no wood is exposed. I am trying to make it weather proof.

I go a little overboard, but the last pre 64 I did this way seems to like it

Oh yeah I use Marine Tex and Carnuba floor wax for release agent.

Tag

Good stuff right there, but generally the Winchester model 70's like to be freefloated all the way with no "support" under the chamber. However, if you do it right a good full length bedding job works great as well. The idea is to not stress the action or barrel. Think NEUTRAL or stress free and you'll be in like flinn....

tag

TTT I had a buddy looking for this thread.. Has a model 70 in a 300RUM that's not grouping but throwing a patterns said the crappy hot glue stuff falling out when he took it out of the stock. Lawarence you have any good tips for bedding the Tupperware stocks on the model 70's??

Hey buddy. Hope all is going well. My best advice is rough it up very well. I've tried drilling small anchor holes as well, but don't know if that really helps. Use Devcon 10110, it is damn strong and adheres to the Tupperware very well. When you are done, it should look something like this:





The best advice I can give is make sure you use plenty of release agent!!!

Thanks will relay that to him

I'm the guy that John is referring to, I bedded my Model 70 300 WBY yesterday, and have the 300 RUM drying right now. I managed to not glue the rifle to the stock, so that's good.

The Devcon stuff is hard to find so I used JB weld. I'll have to order some Devcon and use it for the rest of the rifles I need to bed.

Thanks for this thread BSA, the instructions were really easy to follow, and it's a lot easier than I thought. Can't believe I was thinking about paying over $100 to have a gunsmith to do it.

Sounds very good duckslayer. Hope you have a more consistently accurate rifle now. I know the one John bought from me is one of my best shooters and it's in a factory Tupperware stock. I've glass bedded them with JB weld as well and it holds up pretty well, just not as strong as Devcon steel 10110. I generally buy the Devcon through Midway or sometimes you can find it for a good deal on ebay. Glad I could help some of you guys with this bedding stuff.

Back up front for reference.

Thinking about bedding a rifle Razz??? Good luck and remember to use enough release agent...

Lawrence,
I found this to be extremely helpful and I'm going to save it for future reference. Thanks for sharing your work!

No problem buddy. Hope it helps..

This should be a sticky!!!
Thanks BSA

Agree on the sticky!

BSA, yeah, setting up a varmint rig. Not a Winnie ☹️so won't hash it out here. Will put somethin on the Predator page once I have it together. All the pieces parts are on my worktable now.

Razz you trying to stay busy waiting for the New Mexico draw results?