Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Savage Collectors Savage Model 1920,300 savage?

Where are the length not weight guys?

We're here.

250-3000 in a 1 in 14" twist will stabilize short 100gr bullets, but not longer ones (such as Nosler bullets). Feel free to experiment for yourself, but lots of us have already gone there.

Length not weight is what determines stability in a given ROT (rate of twist), period. Add to what Calhoun stated the fact that actual ROT in older Savages can vary by as much as 10% either way and you get a bunch of exceptions to the rule also. Only way to find out is to experiment with your own rifle, and not rely on "internet gospel".

As far as the strength of 1920 actions, and their two-stage triggers, they are what they are. "Stiffer" than a 99? Maybe, but a moot point as both qualify for handling. SAAMI standard pressures. "Mini Mauser"? Sure, but I don't think it has as good gas handling features as a M98 Mauser. Would I fire hot handloads in one? Nope- it is almost 100 year old steel for pete's sake.

I like two stage triggers, as did a boat load of ex-doughboys right after WWI, to whom these rifles were directly marketed (that new crop of bolt gun men who before the war lived in a world of lever gun domination here in the States). Take a few minutes to get used to it and you won't mind it a bit.

Treat the 1920 for what it is and it won't let you down. Try to make it into something it was never intended to be, and you might get your tit in a wringer, same as any other gun.

Unfortunately I do not own a 250-3000 Sav. rifle with a 1~14" barrell twist rate, therefore I cannot conduct the tests as lots of you may have done.

As a matter of fact,I have not seen a great many 99ers chambered for the round, and those I have seen, including two takedowns, were in rather bad shape.

Have seen no Model 1920 in 250-3000 Sav. at all.

Which brand/ type bullets would you recommend for these rifles?

Here's a M1920 250-3000 I found at a gun show in Ontario - they are still out there.



Sierra 90 grain Blitzkings and Gamekings work well in the older 250-3000s.

My go to powder for this caliber for efficiency and accuracy is H4895

For the 250-3000's? A lot of us are fans of the 87gr Speer Hot Core. Seems to give the best accuracy while also being a very good performer on coyote/antelope/deer sized game. Others will list some of the 100gr bullets they use.

For the 300 Savage, I go with Nosler Partitions. I vary between 150gr, 165gr and 180gr depending on what the individual gun likes.

I tell people that if a bullet works in the .308, it'll probably work ok in the .300. (You probably don't want to here what my fave .300 bullet is because I march to the beat of a different drummer in that regard!)

One thing that often results from a discussion here about 1920's is olgrouser posting a pic of his sweet .250-- and that's a good thing!! IMO that rifle should be the poster child for M1920 addicts!

"Is this the line for Savage addicts rehab?" "Yeah, Bub. Just move to the back of the line."

The Savage Model 1920 has a few things going for it:

-the bolt features a rather sizeable gas vent that would divert efficiently into the magazine should a case separation occur. Now whether a second or even third gas vent would be better is hard to define.

-the Savage receiver measures 1.425" in diameter, while the Mauser Mod. 98 large ring receiver measures 1.410". (1.300" for the small ring). Not really making a case about this, but it's a fact.

-The savage receiver is shorter and of the same diameter throughout, front to back. It does not have a thumb slot cut into like the military Mauser 98 has. This would, at least theoretically, make the Savage receiver more rigid and certainly more solid than many K98k's produced during the last years of WWII.

Take me well, I am not into the bashing of the sacred Mauser Mod. 98. I did spend lot's of time in whatever remains of the walls of the Oberndorf plant and spent lots of hours discussing with some of the guys who wrote the books on Mauser products, but there is no denying that the little Savage 1920 is an interesting and well-made rifle.

As to the question of steel aging over the years, I have shot many rounds with older rifles (Lee-Enfields, Gew98's, Mauser 93/94/95/96, Danish Krags and French Lebels (to name a few).

Any ancient firearm ought to be inspected before it is fired. Obviously, some have such high a milleage that they deserve retirement.

On the other hand, I see no reason for a Savage Model 1920 that is in top shape to fail with commercial ammunition or well assembled reloads.

The balance is called chance or even bad luck.

In Germany the DEVA (Deutsche Versuchs-und Pr�f-Anstalt f�r Jagd und Sportwaffen e.V) has been collecting statistics over firearms failures for many years.

My understanding is that, eventually, about 1 in 120.000 rifles will fail at one time or another.

Thanks God, casualties or severe woundings are much less.

Let's take good care of our firearms, respect SAAMI / CIP prescriptions, and hope for the best!

The thumb cut in the receiver wall of M98 military receivers was dual purpose: it served as a duct to the outside for escaping gasses blasting down the LH guide rail, as well as a convenient place for one's thumb to fit when charging the magazine with stripper clips.

Yes, that's the reason for it. Problem is that it is the weak point of the Mauser 98 because the heat treatment given the Mauser receiver makes this point much harder and therefore more brittle.

By the way, I have owned a civilian double-square Mauser sporter chambered for the 8x57JS and assembled in 1942. It did not have the thumbcut anymore.

And back to the question of double-stage triggers, I have nothing against them either. They demand more control but rifles so equipped can still be shot accurately.

One type trigger I do not like is the Mosin-Nagant's. You never know when it breaks. But I may well be somewhat prejudiced...

Have to sign-out for now: hungry deer waiting for apples and carrots. And also a blackie.

What a bunch of thiefs!!!

Talk toi you later, Guys!