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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 37,877
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 37,877 |
Keep it.
But then I'm in the process of putting a new clutch, struts and springs ($700) into a 325,000 mile Corolla. We have a real good auto shop teacher at our school and the gearhead kids who are working on it actually like me, so I'm good to go this year.
Only thing that breaks on that car is the driver's door handle (a $10 part) and when I need to I can replace the motor and manual transmission with salvage units for about $700 each.
Since I don't need to drive a car to work this works for me.
Birdwatcher
"...if the gentlemen of Virginia shall send us a dozen of their sons, we would take great care in their education, instruct them in all we know, and make men of them." Canasatego 1744
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 17,289
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 17,289 |
alright I have a 1985 Dodge D100 4x4 360ci V8 with around 100k on the odometer. I have had it for 4years now, and I only put 6k miles on it. When I bought it for $500 it was in decent shape as it was garage kept with absolutely no rust. Now it has surface rust as I live close enough to the beach to get a little bit of salt spray.
Out of those 4 years I have had to put a new rotor, cap, plugs, and wires on. As well as had the front break lock up so I had to replace the rotor and pads. So all in all I have only put around $200 plus fuel (8mpg average).
Now I am at a cross roads, it needs a new distributor, carb rebuilt/replaced, and new tires. I will probably put a new caliper on the front as I don't know why it locked up in the first place.
So I am trying to figure out what to do. Do I put $1500 into it to make it last a few more years. Or would you sell it for $500+ and along with the $1,500, I would have spent on it, start shopping for a replacement. Probably another early 90's 3/4ton.
What to do? I know you haven't asked for mechanical advice but ... I just got to ask why you think it's needs a new distributor and a carb rebuild. If it's running rough and it does more sitting than driving it's possible you might just have an issue with varnish in the carb. I'd put some Seafoam or Techron in the fuel tank and spray the throttle body with some B-12 and see if resolves the issues. You might not have to spend as much $$$ as you think to get it to run right. Some rebuilt calipers (or rebuild them yourself) and a new set of tires won't break the bank.
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 67
Campfire Greenhorn
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Campfire Greenhorn
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 67 |
Keep it. You're looking at an easy afternoon worth of work and a couple hundred bucks. You're not going to get anything comparable for that price, and tires and tune up stuff are all wear items. Any older vehicle will require maintenance/repairs, once you've done them you're good to go. I'd only consider getting rid of a vehicle and buying another in the case of a later model car with a transmission/engine failure and high mileage as well.
Find a set of good used tires on Craigslist for $300 if you don't drive it all the time and be grateful it's treated you so well.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,024
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,024 |
Sounds like all that was done was normal maintenance stuff.
Zero maintenance trucks only exist on the Internet. Yes, and preventative maintenance will make them last for damn near forever.
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 79,321
Campfire Oracle
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Campfire Oracle
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 79,321 |
If you're only putting 6K on it in 4 years, you oughtta keep it.
It's always a gamble, but with only 100K on it, and the fact that you're only putting low miles on it, that $1500 maintenance bill should get you through at *least* another 3 or 4 years.
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,264
Campfire Regular
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OP
Campfire Regular
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,264 |
I am not positive that the distributor needs replaced. Just in talking to a couple of mechanic friends that told me that the stumbling can be from either a accelerator pump or a distributor. It idles just find and as long as I ease on the gas, you would never know anything was wrong, but if you try to give it too much throttle it falls on its face then catches and takes off.
I plan on starting with buying a "new" reman. carb and going from there. Figured that should be the easiest first then move on to the distributor if it does't clear it up.
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,264
Campfire Regular
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OP
Campfire Regular
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,264 |
alright I have a 1985 Dodge D100 4x4 360ci V8 with around 100k on the odometer. I have had it for 4years now, and I only put 6k miles on it. When I bought it for $500 it was in decent shape as it was garage kept with absolutely no rust. Now it has surface rust as I live close enough to the beach to get a little bit of salt spray.
Out of those 4 years I have had to put a new rotor, cap, plugs, and wires on. As well as had the front break lock up so I had to replace the rotor and pads. So all in all I have only put around $200 plus fuel (8mpg average).
Now I am at a cross roads, it needs a new distributor, carb rebuilt/replaced, and new tires. I will probably put a new caliper on the front as I don't know why it locked up in the first place.
So I am trying to figure out what to do. Do I put $1500 into it to make it last a few more years. Or would you sell it for $500+ and along with the $1,500, I would have spent on it, start shopping for a replacement. Probably another early 90's 3/4ton.
What to do? I know you haven't asked for mechanical advice but ... I just got to ask why you think it's needs a new distributor and a carb rebuild. If it's running rough and it does more sitting than driving it's possible you might just have an issue with varnish in the carb. I'd put some Seafoam or Techron in the fuel tank and spray the throttle body with some B-12 and see if resolves the issues. You might not have to spend as much $$$ as you think to get it to run right. Some rebuilt calipers (or rebuild them yourself) and a new set of tires won't break the bank. I tried seafoam, and it didn't help.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 69,324
Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 69,324 |
An truck that you know is safer than one you don't know. There are no guarantees where machines are involved but at least you know what it's been doing.
“In a time of deceit telling the truth is a revolutionary act.”
― George Orwell
It's not over when you lose. It's over when you quit.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,454
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,454 |
I'm in the keep it and drive it until the wheels fall off crowd. Buying something else used is always a gamble and you could just end up inheriting someone else's headache. At least this way you know what you have.
I have a 15 year old Suburban that my wife keeps telling me I should sell and buy something newer, but it still has low miles (108K), and while it does have a few idiosyncrasies, it's worth a lot more to me than I could ever get out of it.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,159
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,159 |
That truck is durable, reliable, parts are common and cheap, and it is easy to diagnose and work on problems yourself.
Likely a 4 bbl carb, so it should be a Quadrajet on there. Dodge changed over from the Thermoquad in the early 80s. Q-Jets are also easy to clean, repair, rebuild yourself. There's almost nothing inside them to replace, and checking settings is easy, just follow the rebuild kit instructions. Put in a kit and a new float & filter, you're good to go.
Why do you think it needs a new distributor? You've got very few miles on it.
Last edited by grouseman; 12/13/14.
It takes a village to raise an idiot.
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 56,285
Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 56,285 |
Sounds like an accelerator pump.
_______________________________________________________
An 8 dollar driveway boy living in a T-111 shack
LOL
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,024
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,024 |
I'm in the keep it and drive it until the wheels fall off crowd. Buying something else used is always a gamble and you could just end up inheriting someone else's headache. At least this way you know what you have.
I have a 15 year old Suburban that my wife keeps telling me I should sell and buy something newer, but it still has low miles (108K), and while it does have a few idiosyncrasies, it's worth a lot more to me than I could ever get out of it. I'm in the same boat with an older suburban. However, my wife said if I sell it she'd kick my azz. I know that thing inside and out. It's been so damn reliable and gets 20 mpg on the highway. It's a 99 and I've had to tear into the tranny and replace the reaction sunshell. Dealers and shops would have done it for over $2,000 as they said it would have to be completely rebuilt. As far as I'm concerned most shops want to screw you. It's better if you do the work yourself and save your hard earned money. The part mentioned in the tranny of my wifes suburban cost $52.00 and it's still going strong after the repair (that I performed) in 2009. I also have a 2004 GMC 1500 4x4 that I replaced the locker in, after it failed and the tranny was rebuilt (while under an extended warranty). It's always nice to know the history of your own vehicle and it can be a headache buying someone else's problems, but if you know what to look for you will be fine buying used. To the OP: My best suggestion is learn your vehicle, educate yourself on basic mechanics and you'll be money ahead... Don't waste your money on needless repairs: IE: If it's not broken, don't fix it... If it's been built by a man, it can be fixed by a man.... 
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 17,289
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 17,289 |
I am not positive that the distributor needs replaced. Just in talking to a couple of mechanic friends that told me that the stumbling can be from either a accelerator pump or a distributor. It idles just find and as long as I ease on the gas, you would never know anything was wrong, but if you try to give it too much throttle it falls on its face then catches and takes off.
I plan on starting with buying a "new" reman. carb and going from there. Figured that should be the easiest first then move on to the distributor if it does't clear it up. An accelerator pump problem will cause a stumble when you give it gas and is very easy to identify. Pull the air cleaner and pump the throttle. You should see raw gas spewing into the throttle body from the nozzles and it doesn't have to running either as long as there's fuel in the float bowl. If it has a vacuum operated spark advance on the distributor pulling the vacuum line should have an affect. Also check for a leaky vacuum line. In either case neither issue requires a new distributor.
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 14,408
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 14,408 |
It idles just find and as long as I ease on the gas, you would never know anything was wrong, but if you try to give it too much throttle it falls on its face then catches and takes off. sounds like the fix is to just ease on the gas. seriously, my f150 did that for probably 10 years. for all the use it got, i never mucked with it. on them old trucks you gotta pick your battles. torqueing on old hardware could open a can of worms. turn up the radio.
My diploma is a DD214
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 10,793
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 10,793 |
I spent a lot of years driving them into the ground. Too much of my life was spent in my self-taught backyard shade tree mechanic training. Now I buy new, keep maintained, get rid of them at 100K or when I get the itch for a new one. My wife loves me, likes to see me in a nice truck....
Mathew 22: 37-39
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,888
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,888 |
Just put a GM Crate Engine 350 in my 98 Tahoe. Was absolutely nothing wrong with the truck. The motor simply cracked both heads due to an overheating @ 278000. Now, it's good as new. Total cost was $3500.
"I never thought I'd live to see the day that a U.S. president would raise an army to invade his own country."
Robert E. Lee
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,535
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,535 |
Sounds like all that was done was normal maintenance stuff.
Zero maintenance trucks only exist on the Internet. Or break all at once, right before they get towed to the crusher......
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,454
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,454 |
I'm in the keep it and drive it until the wheels fall off crowd. Buying something else used is always a gamble and you could just end up inheriting someone else's headache. At least this way you know what you have.
I have a 15 year old Suburban that my wife keeps telling me I should sell and buy something newer, but it still has low miles (108K), and while it does have a few idiosyncrasies, it's worth a lot more to me than I could ever get out of it. I'm in the same boat with an older suburban. However, my wife said if I sell it she'd kick my azz. I know that thing inside and out. It's been so damn reliable and gets 20 mpg on the highway. It's a 99 and I've had to tear into the tranny and replace the reaction sunshell. Dealers and shops would have done it for over $2,000 as they said it would have to be completely rebuilt. As far as I'm concerned most shops want to screw you. It's better if you do the work yourself and save your hard earned money. The part mentioned in the tranny of my wifes suburban cost $52.00 and it's still going strong after the repair (that I performed) in 2009. I also have a 2004 GMC 1500 4x4 that I replaced the locker in, after it failed and the tranny was rebuilt (while under an extended warranty). It's always nice to know the history of your own vehicle and it can be a headache buying someone else's problems, but if you know what to look for you will be fine buying used. To the OP: My best suggestion is learn your vehicle, educate yourself on basic mechanics and you'll be money ahead... Don't waste your money on needless repairs: IE: If it's not broken, don't fix it... If it's been built by a man, it can be fixed by a man.... How many miles on your Suburban when the transmission troubles hit? The drive train has been pretty solid on mine (knock on wood!), just leaking head gaskets, AC compressor, door handles, fuel pump, steering speed actuator, etc., and it has a check engine light that is constantly on unless I keep the tank full. Local shop quoted me $400.00 to pull the tank and replace a sensor they think is causing it, but I'll live with it as long as that's all it is. One thing that's nice here is not having safety/emissions testing.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,576
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,576 |
I'd opt to put $1500 into it. You're unlikely to get a truck in better condition, with new tires, for $2k. This.
'Tis far better to walk alone than to follow a crowd going the wrong way.
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 13,860
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 13,860 |
So I am trying to figure out what to do. Do I put $1500 into it to make it last a few more years. Or would you sell it for $500+ and along with the $1,500, I would have spent on it, start shopping for a replacement. Probably another early 90's 3/4ton.
What to do?
Dude, you have an "EMP resistant" 4x4 pickup that isn't rusted out and you are asking if you should keep it? Do you have any beat up Superposed 20ga's you'd part with for a coupla C-notes?
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