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I am not sure how moving the JP screw in or out would not change anything. If it is closed and then opened until it cycles which would be the sweet spot then how come turning it in or out from there isn't going to change anything. So if you use the JP and find the sweet spot for a certain round but then you changed the to a different round your saying you can't reset the JP block.

Last edited by Oklahoma; 01/03/15.

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The only thing I see that the SLR & Syrac has that the other don't is the dent adjustment which would limit the adjustment to the dent spots.


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Originally Posted by Oklahoma
The only thing I see that the SLR & Syrac has that the other don't is the dent adjustment which would limit the adjustment to the dent spots.


Does the unthreaded portion of the Wilson screw seal off the gas instead of the threads?

If I'm understanding correctly, the Syrac and SLR use the unthreaded "stem" portions on the end of their set screws to more effectively shut off gas in addition to the detent feature, which would limit you to 1/4 or 1/3 turn adjustments but would also allow some repeatability as you could count clicks.

I have a cheaper gas block on my 260, and I don't like it. The simple set screw moves too easily, and I was told to use rtv silicone to seal and "set" the screw by the person that sold it to me. I will be changing it out at some point..

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Originally Posted by Walter_Sobchak
If I'm understanding correctly, the Syrac and SLR use the unthreaded "stem" portions on the end of their set screws to more effectively shut off gas in addition to the detent feature, which would limit you to 1/4 or 1/3 turn adjustments but would also allow some repeatability as you could count clicks.


Exactly...

It looks like the Wilson works the same as the SLR and Syrac as far as metering gas. That being said, the jam nut and straight gas tube are deal breakers for me.

Last edited by KneezeInTheBreeze; 01/02/15.
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a pound of rifle seems like a lot to me these days... grin


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Originally Posted by KneezeInTheBreeze
Originally Posted by Walter_Sobchak
If I'm understanding correctly, the Syrac and SLR use the unthreaded "stem" portions on the end of their set screws to more effectively shut off gas in addition to the detent feature, which would limit you to 1/4 or 1/3 turn adjustments but would also allow some repeatability as you could count clicks.


Exactly...

It looks like the Wilson works the same as the SLR and Syrac as far as metering gas. That being said, the jam nut and straight gas tube are deal breakers for me.


Enlighten me on the problems of a straight gas tube.


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Originally Posted by Oklahoma
Enlighten me on the problems of a straight gas tube.


There's nothing wrong with it at all functionally. It's just another non-standard part I don't want to deal with.

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Originally Posted by jimmyp
a pound of rifle seems like a lot to me these days... grin


I'm with you on that! grin


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Originally Posted by KneezeInTheBreeze
Originally Posted by Oklahoma
What makes these 2 gas blocks so much better than any of the other adjustable gas blocks on the market??? I am running a Wilson adjustable block and it has worked great.


The photo below shows three metering screws. Syrac Ordnance on the left, SLR in the middle and JP on the right.

The JP is just an off the shelf cup tip set screw. The threaded body of the screw simply can't meter gas as effectively. When tuning a JP style block, you start with screw closed and back it out until the rifle completes a cycle of operation. These style gas blocks are either on or off given a specific cartridge. Once you hit the adjustment sweet spot, moving the screw in or out changes nothing (non-linear). I have no idea what type of screw the Wilson variant uses but I wouldn't be surprised if it were the same as a JP.

The Syrac and SLR variants work better because they have a machined metering surface. The metering screw on these models are precise enough that you can walk the ejection pattern through about 90 degrees. I'm prefer the Syrac varaint over the SLR for a few reasons:

1. The Syrac screw is purpose built whereas the SLR screw is just a turned down set screw.

2. The Syrac screw has four metering detents compared to the SLR which has three. This allows for more precise metering.

3. I'm not fond of the SLR leaf spring retention for the detent ball. It may be subjective but it's more likely to fail than the Syrac.

[Linked Image]


What type of failure is the leaf spring detent more prone to? Have an example?

Last edited by CBMJR; 01/03/15.

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I'm not sure exactly what material the leaf spring is made from but it rusted overnight after being exposed to a little salt spray. I tend to approach my appraisal of parts from a hard use, worst case scenario standpoint. Again, I'm not bashing the SLR. I own two Sentry 9's which are installed on bull barrel builds but only because Syrac doesn't make 0.936 variant.

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Originally Posted by KneezeInTheBreeze
Originally Posted by Oklahoma
Enlighten me on the problems of a straight gas tube.


There's nothing wrong with it at all functionally. It's just another non-standard part I don't want to deal with.


Non Standard....Wasn't we talking about he AR10/LR308. There isn't anything standard that I am aware of. The straight tube is standard on mine.


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Originally Posted by Oklahoma
Non Standard....Wasn't we talking about he AR10/LR308. There isn't anything standard that I am aware of. The straight tube is standard on mine.


You got me... The large frame platform hasn't been standardized for sure.

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Originally Posted by Walter_Sobchak
Thanks, I may be looking back at this thread when making a parts list..


http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...8-ar-chrome-lined-barrels-prod80214.aspx

This Criterion hybrid contour lists at 2.6 pounds.

Anybody have any idea what the S&W 18" barrel weighs? The S&W balances nicely in the hand. I think it is a pencil barrel.


Faxon:
http://faxonfirearms.com/18-medium-tapered-308-win-mid-length-4150-qpq/

Faxon is 2.28 lbs

Anything out there lighter and available?

Last edited by Robert_White; 07/13/16.

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LMT is another solid AR10. I have had no issues with mine and you can swap barrels easy.


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Originally Posted by Robert_White
Originally Posted by Walter_Sobchak
Thanks, I may be looking back at this thread when making a parts list..


http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...8-ar-chrome-lined-barrels-prod80214.aspx

This Criterion hybrid contour lists at 2.6 pounds.

Anybody have any idea what the S&W 18" barrel weighs? The S&W balances nicely in the hand. I think it is a pencil barrel.


Faxon:
http://faxonfirearms.com/18-medium-tapered-308-win-mid-length-4150-qpq/

Faxon is 2.28 lbs

Anything out there lighter and available?


Robert, for the last couple years Faxon seems to be one of the leaders in making real light AR barrels. They are probably your best bet right now.

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I handled a Daniel Defense .308 this past weekend. Not crazy about 16" barrel .308's but it seemed relatively light & handy. Spendy, too. smirk They also have a Ambush cammo model which has a 18" barrel. 8.6 lbs with 18" barrel.

I expect it will be very reliable, how accurate it will be is a different question.


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Originally Posted by g5m
After many years of puttering around with 5.56 Ar's I'm thinking of getting into the 308's. There are a lot of posts and threads about reliability problems. I really don't want to play around with reliability problems if I can avoid it.
And, I'll be looking at an entry level rifle, not a Knight or Larue, etc.
Any advice from you all who are experienced in this area?

A local dealer who has a good many high and low dollar rifles recommended getting started with a Bushmaster MOE which he said has been more accurate and reliable than many others.

Thanks for any help.
I have a DPMS Gen 2 Hunter. I wanted a relatively light weight 308 with a 20" barrel. That describes the Hunter.

I had the same issues, maybe not as severe, as Jimmy describes, but hoping for success in this package, I let them work on it. Twice. They got it right the second time, and I question if they even did anything the first as they were changing repair stations from internal to external. A good move on their part.

Mine shoots about a inch for 5 and it's a semi-auto hunting rifle. I'm good with that.

I wouldn't suggest you might not have problems with one, but I would believe they would make it right. I'm glad I stuck it out and have it in my inventory.


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I have a Rock River 308 varmint. It's very accurate. No problems with it. I shoot a 150 Sierra GameKing with 44 grains of H4895. Lake City brass.

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My DPMS Gen1 has rocked through three classes at thunder ranch Oregon (just finished a class Saturday). 600-750 rounds over 2.5 days each time.
Wore out the bolt @ 4400 rounds. Had a JP FMOS bolt and BCG installed before this class. Round count is over 5,500 now. Gonna need a barrel soon.
Remember the acronym MMA--magazines, maintenance, ammo


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