Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Floppy fore-end on the Ruger American

Have it spend a little time down in the "Now that we know what ..." thread in the Miscellaneous forum.

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Thanks for that first new and improved stock I've seen that's a better design with all the diagonals looks like thicker guage material too.

Wonder how much that's going to make the price go up?

Shod

The small dealer wholesale price at my favorite wholesaler went up $20 recently, on the Predators and Ranch Rifles that change was from $310 to $330. Don't why, but it did.

I'm going over to Cabela's after I shower and buy a couple of RARs; Predators in 204, 223, and 6.5 Creed. 3 RRs in 223, 'cause 2 guys in CO and 1 guy in KS asked me to buy for them if they are available. The gun counter guy a Cabela's told me that they had Predators and RRs, but he wouldn't (or couldn't) tell me if they had them for all chamberings cataloged.

Straw purchase?

Assume much?

Send them to their FFL, all legit. Seems the liberal poision may be leaking in to your water supply?

The RAR RR's were going to be gifts, but Cabela's didn't have any when I was there at 9:00 AM. No RAR Predators in 204, 1 in 223, and 3 in 6.5. I ended up with a 6.5 Creed and decided that I'd get the 204 and 223 when Ruger is able to produce enough RAR Predators to meet demand.

EDIT: Got the RAR Pred in 6.5 Creed home, cleaned, and mounted/bore-sighted with a Redfield Revolution 3-9x40 in Warne Maximas. Hope to get to the range and give it a try when the weather cooperates.

The Predator I bought in Decemebr from Cabelas has a stock that looks just like the one above. (I.e., the new stye.)

It was $420, so reflected the $20 increase.

I posted these comments and pictures on the thread about mechanical issues, but it seems relevant here also.

I think my stock was still touching sometimes, so I put some steel bed in the five inches of the fore end. (Starting at the tip.)It added two ounces to the rifle IIRC. But the problem with the stock tapping the barrel and getting two groups is gone.

I made it to the range yesterday. It was WINDY. 10-15 and gusts. It was coming down the mountain at me and causing some weird vertical in all four rifles I shot. I tried to shoot between gusts, but it was impossible and you can see some extra vertical in the targets.

The first picture is the same load I was shooting previously. The first picture says "sighter", and the bullet hole on the bottom right was my first shot. I corrected up and left and shot the four round group.

The second pic is of the same load, but seated deeper. Then there are two loads with Varget. I am certain the groups would be better on a less windy day.

For the cost, I'm very happy with the rifle. The "fix" cost $6 and a few minutes.

The dots are one inch.

Thanks for the update IDMilton. Steel-bed and the new forearm seem to be working.

I'll be interested in hearing how it does once you start shooting from field positions. I think shooting uphill, downhill, off of different surfaces, and in contorted positions can affect the plastic stocks. Hopefully you've cured the problem and can just shoot it.

I'll probably go plywood, but will take another look at a band-aid later today.

Yeah, I need to shot over my pack and see how it does. I was out of time and it was too windy yesterday so I'll have to try it later. I did shoot from the bipod right before I left. I was wasting so much time waiting for the wind to stop gusting I stopped at three. (And I was already late!)


Here's a picture of the rifle. Now its shooting well, my gun A.D.D. will probable kick in and I'll sell it and try a stainless one in 7-08. It's a sickness!

The bipod is a great test. Seems fine, especially the conditions.

Did you dork with the trigger yet? You can pitch the trigger spring, if you keep the blade for reset. I pitched the blade, but had to add a wimpy trigger spring for reliable reset. Easy to take all of it out for a trial... then decide what you like from there.

Pic below shows the wimpy spring used for reset, but its been cut in half, at least. Pick points to the new spring before getting chopped (with OEM spring below it)... and blade is now gone.

What cartridge?

4th_point, are you going to try taping the forearm to the barrel like NTG suggests above?
Sounds like to me that it might work for those that are having problems maintaining their POA/POI..

4th Point, I haven't touched the trigger springs. It feels good to me so I just left it alone.

260Remguy, mine is in 6.5 Creedmoor. With the H4350 I'm at about 2650. With the Varget, I'm at 2560. (With an ES in the teens.) Both with Hornady brass, Tula LRM, and the 140 A-max.

Yeah, NTG made that suggestion awhile back. At the time I thought about adding a pressure point, separating the barrel and stock, but never considered squeezing them together. Would be interesting to try.

Seems like the wrap would be a good way to verify a rifle/load is in the ballpark. But I'm thinking my RAR and load are going to shoot well based on what I've seen so far and don't know how I'd incorporate a wrap in to the longterm fix (i.e. pulling the barrel down into the stock). Although the gist is to stiffen the barrel/stock assembly I don't know if pulling the barrel down is the same as pushing it up.

Thoughts?

My suggestion is not a permanent fix, mostly just a test to see how it will shoot after taking the variability out of the stock by isolating it's movement in relation to the barrel.

That's what I figured. Good idea for the future.

It seems I read somewhere where someone wrapped the barrel a few times so the electrical tape had constant contact with the stock and then heated the stock with a heat gun just enough to reset the plastics memory (ideally). I don't remember reading that they tested it out before and after, however. Just sharing another idea that someone may want to play with.

Taping the barrel to the forend of the stock will make the wandering zero problem worse.

If someone doesn't want to bother to fix the problem by reinforcing the fulcrum point of the stock, the simplest method to eliminate any changes in zero due to erratic stock flexing is to simply remove material in the forend to provide sufficient clearance in the barrel channel so that when the forearm flexes it doesn't touch the barrel.

The heat gun idea is the same principle.