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The markings on the two experimental rifles (Co = Company) would indicate 1915 or earlier production.


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I got into 1920's in a bit unusual way - first found one that had been D&T for a sidemount scope, with altered bolt handle. Then I ran into one that belonged to a serviceman, that had for some strange reason been fitted with an octagon barrel. But it still had the original bolt with 54 sight.

The headspace difference between the two bolts is only .002", so the D&T rifle now has the 54. It also needed a taller front sight, which Kaywoodie made for me.

The main spring has a fair amount of wear on it, so I will probably make a few new ones - and I'll probably sell the extras.

I guess the 1920 theoretically is stronger than a 99, but I have a .300 takedown, so I keep loads modest for all the .300's.


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Henry Stibens (sp?) wrote a book called the "Encyclopedia of Rifles" in the late 50s/early 60s. It's a great book to have. In it, someplace, I'm pretty sure he mentions the 1920 as having been tiered off a pre-WWI military design. Except I'm pretty sure he said it was chambered in .30-06. I wonder how this would have fit within Mauser's lawsuit against the US Govt. for patent infringements with the 1903.

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It would be great to put together a compendium of data on the 1920 and 20/26 based on the characteristics of forum members rifles. I wouldn't mind doing it if there is any interest. In my own gready way, I think it would also be interesting throwing in the 40/45 Super Sporter series.


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Originally Posted by tex_n_cal
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I got into 1920's in a bit unusual way - first found one that had been D&T for a sidemount scope, with altered bolt handle. Then I ran into one that belonged to a serviceman, that had for some strange reason been fitted with an octagon barrel. But it still had the original bolt with 54 sight.

The headspace difference between the two bolts is only .002", so the D&T rifle now has the 54. It also needed a taller front sight, which Kaywoodie made for me.

The main spring has a fair amount of wear on it, so I will probably make a few new ones - and I'll probably sell the extras.

I guess the 1920 theoretically is stronger than a 99, but I have a .300 takedown, so I keep loads modest for all the .300's.



That Octagon, Looks to be Nice, Any other Photo's?
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Originally Posted by S99VG
It would be great to put together a compendium of data on the 1920 and 20/26 based on the characteristics of forum members rifles.


I concur that database of 1920s and 1926s would be of interest to me as well. smile


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Got the 20/26 today. What a magnificent little rifle! The stock is in great shape, the receiver is going brown (but solid), and the barrel finish is thin and a bit mottled. But the overall package is compact and solid. Nice two stage trigger pull. I can't find my trigger pull gage but since I cut my teeth on military triggers I find everything just as it should be. Now I need a .250-3000!

Oh yeah, the clip slot is pretty cool too!

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Originally Posted by 1899sav



That Octagon, Looks to be Nice, Any other Photo's?
STEVE


No sorry. I consider it a Bubba job that ruined the balance of the rifle, as the octagon barrel is much heavier. The rifle was actually discussed in a thread ~3 years ago, and I bought it from its owner. The consensus was it was rebarreled in Europe, and yes it is in .300 Savage.


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I now have a couple 54 question. I get it that you need a pair of snap ring pliers for the center nut on the elevation staff and that you also need to tighten the bajezees out of it to keep things from loosening up, but I don.t fully get how the two piece screw lock mechanism works. Do you loosen it up with the center screw, hold the center screw tight and loosen the outside knurled knob, or what? The last thing I want to do is mess this thing up. Also, how consistent do you find the sight, being attached to the bolt shroud, in retuning to the same place from shot to shot? Many thanks for your help again.


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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Me three.

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A Lyman 54 I built out of a bare base a couple years ago. (It looks a little different now- elevation clamp screw replaced with a knurled knob.)

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There is one of those peep sights on eBay now !


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Originally Posted by 458Win
Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Me three.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

A Lyman 54 I built out of a bare base a couple years ago. (It looks a little different now- elevation clamp screw replaced with a knurled knob.)

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


There is one of those peep sights on eBay now !


Now you've done it. Soon the "auction police" will be along............... grin grin


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That's it boys, keep talking about it, haha.

At least it's legit and doesn't have a Lyman #40 slide jammed onto a #54 mount like the other one that was on there last month.


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Saw it last night and figured the price would go through the roof regardless of how many people knew about it as all it takes to mess things up is one obsessed bidder with deep pockets. So instead of advertising ebay auctions on this thread, my question on how to adjust the elevation staff is still pending. Do you loosen the center hub and knurled knob as one unit or what? I really don't want to mess up my 54 and get stuck paying half the price of a new rifle buying a replacement off an internet auction.

Last edited by S99VG; 03/10/15.

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Originally Posted by S99VG
So instead of advertising ebay auctions on this thread, my question on how to adjust the elevation staff is still pending. Do you loosen the center hub and knurled knob as one unit or what? I really don't want to mess up my 54 and get stuck paying half the price of a new rifle buying a replacement off an internet auction.


It would be nice if you put a picture up so we could see what you have. BUT, if you have the knurled knob with the thin center lock nut with the two small holes, then YES. The proper way would be to loosen the lock disc. When your done adjusting, tighten the knurled knob and then lock down the disc. you "should" be able to loosen the whole shooting match by loosening the knurled knob without touching anything. The little disc is to just keep pressure in the other knob. FWIW, I have never had to touch one once I had it sighted in and locked down.


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LBK - thanks much. All I have is a crappy phone camera, but my 54 is in original stock condition. So the center hub is just a disk for locking everything down? Right now my sight is locked down tight, reflecting the caution gnoahhh gave about the 54s tendency to work loose when using the rifle if not adequately torqued down. Thanks again!

Last edited by S99VG; 03/10/15.

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I would not use pliers or the like to loosen the knurled knob. I'd go with a small strap wrench and do NOT put lots of torque on the tool that you use to loosen the locking disc. Those small holes bugger up fairly easily.


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Yep, pretty sure it's seized up.

Like Steve said all you have to do is turn it and it unlocks the elevation slide.


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Thanks guys!


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