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Now I have a headache after doing research and reading about parallax.
From what I understand with an AO scope a target at a known distance and power setting of the scope, parallax can be adjusted or eliminated by proper adjustments of the scope. So lets say you have a target out at 250 yds and the scope is on 6x. You adjust the AO correcting the parallax, mark your setting on the scope and your good to go. Now lets say you look at a target 350 yds away and adjust the power setting to 14x. From what I understand the parallax will change, so another correction of the AO will need to be made and marked.
So here is the question. At each power setting does parallax change or does parallax only change on how far or close the target is regardless of power setting?
Hope this makes sense on what I'm trying to ask.
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At lower x the optic is much less suceptibal to parralax.
I just use these steps when using a AO scope (which is seldom) and call it good:
1) Set scope on low x and focus reticle. Or check.
2) Set scope to highest x.
3) Turn AO from "0" up until target picture is crisp.
Change of x does not change p any.
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rjf,
Paralax adjustmetn is not for clearing up the image. That doses happen, though. And it is a big reason why I buy A.O. scopes. To me an A.O. Tasco is better than a non adjustable Swarovski if one is going to shoot past 300 yards. Of course I don't use fixed magnification scopes unless it is at least 24X.
The A.O. is set correctly when you move your head from side to side or up and down and the crosshair does not move on the target.
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"To me an A.O. Tasco is better than a non adjustable Swarovski if one is going to shoot past 300 yards."
Wow, thats a Charlie Sheen moment.
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Manic_Hunter
I can tell you have not tried it. I have.
By the way, my eyes checked out at 20/15 Tuesday afternoon.
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higher magnifications also magnify the error in parallax not observable at lower powers.
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[quote=Manic_Hunter]
"To me an A.O. Tasco is better than a non adjustable Swarovski if one is going to shoot past 300 yards."
Wow, thats a Charlie Sheen moment
im sure the man is referring to a specific use and not value.
there are times when cost dosent nesserily mean better.
i prefer scopes with a o. that said i think it has become more of an issue that it really is.
it can be an issue for target shooters. much less so for hunters to my mind.
dont move your face and it wont happen.
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Manic_Hunter
I can tell you have not tried it. I have.
By the way, my eyes checked out at 20/15 Tuesday afternoon. There are so many other scope variables that effect accuracy to and beyond 300 yds. To state that one scope is better than the other simply because it has parallax adjustment is just wrong. With my Swarovski scopes, parallax adjustment in most situations is not an issue (to me) until I need to shoot past 600 yards which would be rare. I grind my teeth thinking that someone takes your advice and purchase a Tasco over another quality scope simply because it has parallax adjustment and the other has not.
Last edited by Manic_Hunter; 04/07/11.
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Maybe Im just overthinking this subject a little too much but I know it's there and now understand the AO use and how to correct it.
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Manic_Hunter
I can tell you have not tried it. I have.
By the way, my eyes checked out at 20/15 Tuesday afternoon. There are so many other scope variables that effect accuracy to and beyond 300 yds. To state that one scope is better than the other simply because it has parallax adjustment is just wrong. With my Swarovski scopes, parallax adjustment in most situations is not an issue (to me) until I need to shoot past 600 yards which would be rare. I grind my teeth thinking that someone takes your advice and purchase a Tasco over another quality scope simply because it has parallax adjustment and the other has not. Amen, brother! And yes, RM... I've tried it numerous times, with numerous scopes. I think MH's Charlie Sheen comment was actually him being generous, as that was a pretty absurd statement. A cheap scope doesn't suddenly become superior to a quality scope just because it has A/O or SF. The mere presence of parallax adjustment doesn't solve a multitude of optical and mechanical problems inherent with cheap scopes, and the degree to which you need parallax adjustment has a lot to do with how repeatable your eye positioning behind the scope is and what kind of shooting you're doing.
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As the magnification is increased, so does apparent parallax. So set your scope on it's highest magnification so you can see the parallax present best and then use the AO to remove it at that range.
If you set your scope to parallax free at 250 yds. at a longer distance, you should have virtually none. However, this isn't the case at the really short ranges. If you set the scope to be parallax free at 25 yds. then it may well have some at 50-75 yds.
Use the ocular to focus the reticle, then focus the image at a given range with the ocular, not the the AO. While using the AO to remove parallax, it may affect the image focus, it does a poor job of focusing the image on some scopes. This is especailly true of those Leupolds that use the much slower US style ocular focusing system. Now, on a euro design with their much faster focusing ocular, you probably won't see much difference, so it depends on the scope's design. E
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As the magnification is increased, so does apparent parallax. So set your scope on it's highest magnification so you can see the parallax present best and then use the AO to remove it at that range.
If you set your scope to parallax free at 250 yds. at a longer distance, you should have virtually none. However, this isn't the case at the really short ranges. If you set the scope to be parallax free at 25 yds. then it may well have some at 50-75 yds.
Use the ocular to focus the reticle, then focus the image at a given range with the ocular, not the the AO. While using the AO to remove parallax, it may affect the image focus, it does a poor job of focusing the image on some scopes. This is especailly true of those Leupolds that use the much slower US style ocular focusing system. Now, on a euro design with their much faster focusing ocular, you probably won't see much difference, so it depends on the scope's design. E I will give this a try. Thanks E!
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The mere presence of parallax adjustment doesn't solve a multitude of optical and mechanical problems inherent with cheap scopes, and the degree to which you need parallax adjustment has a lot to do with how repeatable your eye positioning behind the scope is and what kind of shooting you're doing. With a good parallax adjustment head position becomes less and less critical. Once you have the parallax set correctly for the range one can move his heads an 1/8" off the stock and the crosshair stays on target. Don't forget to attack me and say that I advocate folks shoot with their faces away from the stock.
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I'm fully aware of what parallax adjustment does, but its presence doesn't turn a fundamentally lousy scope into a good precision shooting scope. I'm not going to attack you, but your claim is outlandish, and you're giving people poor advice. To say a cheap scope with parallax adj outperforms a quality scope without is hogwash. Being able to correct for parallax doesn't help you a whole lot if you have poor resolution and contrast, robbing you of the ability to aim at small targets. High magnification only makes the situation worse because it amplifies any optical flaws. As magnification increases, optical quality becomes increasingly more critical. Cheap optics and high magnification are a very poor combination and a detriment to precision shooting, parallax adjustment or not.
Last edited by RifleDude; 04/07/11.
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The mere presence of parallax adjustment doesn't solve a multitude of optical and mechanical problems inherent with cheap scopes, and the degree to which you need parallax adjustment has a lot to do with how repeatable your eye positioning behind the scope is and what kind of shooting you're doing. "With a good parallax adjustment head position becomes less and less critical. Once you have the parallax set correctly for the range one can move his heads an 1/8" off the stock and the crosshair stays on target." Poor advice! Head position is always critical to accuracy, parallax adjustment or not. Parallax adjustment should not be an excuse for lax principal in shooting form. I recommend a shooter learn to shoot with a fixed parallaxed scope using proper eye positioning before going to adjustable parallax. Adjustable parallax will not make average Joe a better shooter but will give an experienced shooter an advantage at longer ranges. Don't forget to attack me and say that I advocate folks shoot with their faces away from the stock.
Last edited by Manic_Hunter; 04/07/11.
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Before I had the money to buy any scope I wanted I had Burris. They failed. I switched to Tasco and didn't have failures. Not only that I killed rock chucks out to 527 yards with 6-24X Tascos set on 24X.
My son-in-law has a 4-16X Tasco trajectory model. When he goes to the shooting range he dials it up to the 590 yard target and hits it. He then dials it back to the 100 yard target and puts one in the "X". That is called repeatablity.
I had a 4-16X Tasco on my .375-.416 Rem Mag for years. It replaced the Burris that didn't last ten shots. I was so confident in it I took it to Alaska to hunt moose and cariboo. I replaced it recenlty only because someone got hit by it when they fired the .375. I gave it to a valued friend for his .218 BEE.
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