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...on a 700 short action. I'm buying a barrel from PacNor and thinking on finishing it myself.

I'm confident I can thread the tang and front end (I'll be installing a suppressor). Not sure about chambering, and headspacing. I know I'll have to buy, borrow, or steal reamers and gauges and that it would be a lot cheaper to have PacNor do the the whole thing.

But as a hobby machinist I'd like to try it. I have a Monarch 10EE lathe and other machines.

Should I do it?



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I don't know what your skill level is, so I won't recommend one way or the other on you doing the work yourself.
But I will tell you that the two that I built on Rem 700 .223 donor rifles suffered from poor ejection. The factory extractor pivots the empty brass at the 3:00 position. This causes the brass to pivot into the slot that the locking lug passes through. Because the case is so short it pivots far enough that it slips free from the extractor and isn't ejected. A refit to a Sako or M16 extractor will help fix this. These extractors sit above the locking lug so the case pivots more at a 1:30/2:00 position, missing the locking lug passage way and limiting the amount the brass can pivot. This way the brass is retained by the extractor until it clears the ejection port. If you look at a factory Fireball/Blackout extractor you will see that Remington clocked it above the locking lug to correct this problem.


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If you can find a Rem model 7 221/300 Blackout action it would fit your needs better.

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Originally Posted by orwapitihunter
I don't know what your skill level is, so I won't recommend one way or the other on you doing the work yourself.
But I will tell you that the two that I built on Rem 700 .223 donor rifles suffered from poor ejection. The factory extractor pivots the empty brass at the 3:00 position. This causes the brass to pivot into the slot that the locking lug passes through. Because the case is so short it pivots far enough that it slips free from the extractor and isn't ejected. A refit to a Sako or M16 extractor will help fix this. These extractors sit above the locking lug so the case pivots more at a 1:30/2:00 position, missing the locking lug passage way and limiting the amount the brass can pivot. This way the brass is retained by the extractor until it clears the ejection port. If you look at a factory Fireball/Blackout extractor you will see that Remington clocked it above the locking lug to correct this problem.


Thanks for the tip. A Sako extractor will be fitted.

I decided to have Pac-Nor do the entire job. I just don't have confidence in my present skill level to attempt it. They were very nice to give me plenty of scrap to play with.


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