Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters To reload 12 gauge slugs

This is and area that has been sparse for many years.
We need a 1 oz Foster slug that can be put in a 1 oz shotcup and fired at 1,600 fps with good accuracy. We do not want to mess with cards or felt pads. If it exists, I would like all the info that I can get on where to get the things needed to do so.

With all the new stuff out now, would like the same info on the sabot bullets and sabots. A reloader can beat $17.50 for a box of 5 shells. He can also tinker around and get the speed right for his barrel. What caliber bullets and weights are used in sabot shells?

Need web sites for the ones suggested.
Long cold winter coming up and there will be lots of time to make your own, of either or both.

You need to go to www.ballisticproducts.com and order their slug loading manual.

JB

jkh - We tried some of the "load them in a shot cup" slugs. Accuracy amounted to trying to figure out where they were going when they weren't showing up on the target. Mystery was partially solved when the observer noticed dirt flying up well in front of the target (not on every shot, however.) As for tinkering with the load, all that I have ever read about following published shotshell data down to more or less counting kernels of powder has scared me so motherless that I never even considered deviating from the provided loads. As you can see, our experience was not what one would call positive. (I too am galled beyond the help of talcum powder over the price of saboted slug loads.) Best, (hope it works out for you) John

I suspect... but don't know... that a lot of the "don't you dare deviate in the slightest from the published shotgun load" stuff is a byproduct of a noisy measurement system. I know how imprecise the CUP system is, and I don't expect that the LUP system is any better. Random measurement errors of plus and minus 1-2 KPSI are almost negligible at 60 KPSI, but at 10 KPSI, it's a very large error. I think the message we are getting may be because technicians can't reproduce their own measurements, and don't know where the edge of the world is... and they're afraid of sailing off it.

Here in Utah, we don't use slugs much. But I've always thought it would be kind of cool to have the capability of launching a 440 grain bullet that big. The notion keeps tugging at my sleeve.

As to the comment about putting slugs in cups: Thank you. I was about to try that. Now I don't have to.

jk,
I have tried fooling with undersized foster (Lyman Sabot type) slugs with standard shotcups. Out of smoothbores accuracy was even worse than standard factory loads. Out of rifled barrels accuracy could be outstanding, like 1 1/2 in at 100 yds., only to have an hourglass two feet low through the target on subsequent shots. Standard shotcups cannot impart rotational forces from rifling to the slug because the petals easily deform, and they are not attached to the slug.
If you look at most slug designs the most accurate have the slug connected to the wad system, or with sabots a tough, thick plastic to take and hold rifling. Standard foster slugs allow some obturation at the base, and some "spinning" occurs, to varying degree in smooth bores because they have some choke constriction to slap some spin to the slug.
BP does have a sabot, but I have not seen it lately in my flyers, but the cost of the sabots put them close to what you're paying now.
My dad has a fellow who uses my slug loads from a smoothbore and has taken three deer with them. He is much less finicky than I am and asks for more every year.
I hope you try and succeed in your quest, and PLEASE let me know how you do.
I just quit the shotgun and went to a revolver.

+1. Also don't overlook the use of a solid-round 12-bore lead ball in leu of a Foster. Before the Foster's came into being, the 69-72 caliber balls were quite effective, and weigh 430-440grns.

Anyone tried the Lymon "make it yourself" slug?
Their ad says that you melt the lead and pour your own slug to be put in a 1 oz. shotcup and used. Foster type slug.

I have reloaded for rifles and pistols for many years and shot shells for a few. Just tired of being ripped-off by BIG BUSINESS

Ballistic Products isn't a BIG BUSINESS.

Rather it's a father-son entreprenuer operation the dad started @30yrs ago.

jk,
See my post above. Ballistics Products actually tests their stuff and have kept many oddball variations of shotgunning alive.
I agree with the big business end, not that Lyman is big, but my opinion (not without a lot of experimentation) is that standard field wads do not work worth a hoot with shotgun slugs.
BP will be the only place to find what you are looking for, but it will be with slugs you have to buy, using their excellent wads.

That would be fine. No insult to BP, their ad does look promising. Would not mind getting their wads and slugs to get a good load that can be made at home. I see that they have a manual for their products too, that is a great help.
On all my reloading, I have found that most, not all, rifle bullets WILL preform much better at reduced loads from the top end suggestion for them. Sharp point bullets being the exception to this rule. They seem to LIKE the ultra high velocities. The Speer, I think, TNT bullet does a job on coyotes at point of impact. Never had one run from point of impact. Not a deer bullet, must use the right tool for the job at hand.

I am kinda new to slug reloading and am thankful for the advice.
I would be quite happy with at 2 1/2 or 3 inch group at 100 yds from foster slugs. But have not ever been there in the 40 years I have used them.

I have not used the Lyman 1 oz. slugs but do cast the 1 1/4 oz. slugs. The terminal performance is awesome. So is the recoil!
With the powder I and some friends use we stay several grains below maximum in order to lessen the punishment. Probably close to what a .458 feels like, I imagine (have only ever fired a .458 once or twice).
Personally my longest kill with these slugs was about 110 or 115 paces and damage to the deer was massive.
This is kind of expensive to get into due to the cost of the molds, furnace, etc. If you already have the furnace the cost becomes more reasonable.