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chili Offline OP
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Hello everybody, I'm new to the forum and happy to be here. I live in the Portland, Oregon area. I an owner of a Savage 99 in 300. My dad bought the rifle in the 70's drilled for scope mounts. The rifle had been missing for 7 years then my dad found it wedged out of site between two plastic storage bins. He had told me he was going to give to me years ago but just found it. Not sure how it got there or why it wasn't in the safe.

Anyway, it's missing a lot of blue, and has some rust on the inner part reciever. I was wondering how you get the letter designation that you see at time before the serial number. Mine's # is 392400 it says thats it's the hi pressure/ proof tested. It was made in Utica, NY, also has the steal SVG butt plate and the fore stock that tapers toward the muzzle end of the rifle. I would give a pick, but I don't know how. I'm just curious what the letter designation is and the near approxamate age. Thanks, hope for some replys.

GB1

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Welcome to the group. smile

The serial puts production in 1940.

Where are the scope mounting holes and how many?

Does the forearm have a schnoble end? Pistol grip vs. a straight lever? Checkering? Solid frame vs. a take down?

Is there any design on the sides of the receiver?

Probably an EG but will need more info to know for sure.


Savage...never say "never".
Rick...

Join the NRA...together we stand, divided we fall!


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Welcome to the forum! The model type isn't stamped anywhere obvious (well, maybe on the front of the receiver under the forearm, but that's even iffy). There were several models being made at that time, so if you can answer Rick's answers we can narrow the model down by the characteristics yours has.

Here's a link to a thread on how to post pictures using a free account at Photobucket.

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/696239/1

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chili Offline OP
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Yes there is a shnoble with no checkering. There is checkering on the pistol grip and on the fore grip in a triangular pattern. I pretty darn sure it's a solid frame and no design on the reciever. It was drilled on the reciever on the front and back of the mag well. It has a Bushnell sportview thats probably older then I am (30). It has weaver bases and rings as well, I want to replace it all with a Lymen #2 tang sight.

I've talkd to a smith semi close to me and quoted me $300 to reblue, fill the drilled holes if not original and an action job/deep cleaning. It seems to be a fair price considering the closer shops wanted almost $600.

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Well, solid frame with schnabel forearm and pistol grip makes it a 99EG. The downside is that putting $300 into it to restore it is almost as much as it's worth now. Since it does have 30+ years of family history, might be that it's worth it to you for sentimental reasons.

Why fill the d&t holes though? If your dad hunted it with a scope, why take that away? If you want a tang sight, just put screws into those holes and call it good. Then you or your boy can put a scope back on it at some point if you want to.

Here's my 1945 99EG in 300 Savage, it's done more than fair by me when it comes to hunting. I don't care if it's gray, I'm sure this rifle has earned every mark on it.

[Linked Image]

IC B2

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chili Offline OP
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Yeah may be you're right about the holes, but theres definately some rust spots on the inner reciever I need to get taken care of. I hope to only use the rifle once or twice per year, I figure I'm going to have another couple more 99's by next hunting season. I love tbalance and feel of these rifles, to me nothing else compares.

The only rifle that ever felt close is was my first rifle, a savage bolt action 30-30. I traded it for an H&R .22 pistol when I was younger, I sure was a goon for making that deal. I carried this 99 on my last hunt (unsuccessful) deer hunt 9 years ago, perfect for hiking around in the blazing California sun.

Yours is nice rifle, my local GS had a couple in 300's with the serial # in the 900,000 range. They're been there for a long time may have to get another soon.

Last edited by chili; 12/22/09.
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Chili...

Welcome to the Forum.

I totally agree with Calhoun... don't put anything like $300 in the rebluing & cleaning up of the rifle, clean it as best you can, clean off the rust and lubricate that area well... and use the fine 1940 "EG" as your primary deer rifle 'cause an "EG" in .300 Savage caliber is "THE" perfect deer rifle which will also take elk, black bear and moose at under 150 yards using a 165 grain bullet... preferably a Nosler Partition bullet or one of the bonded core bullets to give you deep penetration at .300 Savage velocities.

The .300 Savage is every bit as capable as the .308 Winchester cartridge which was derived FROM the .300 Savage cartridge.

I use a handloaded 150 grain Nosler Ballistic Tip bullet in front of 40.8 grains of H4895 sparked by a standard Winchester large rifle primer for deer hunting in my 1953 .300 "EG"... it does an excellent job at 2635 fps. That load has a honest "point-blank range" of 250 yards and the bullet never rises or falls more than 3-inches above or below the line-of-sight from the muzzle out to 250 yards. smile


Strength & Honor...

Ron T.


It's smart to hang around old guys 'cause they know lotsa stuff...


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